my whip broke down...maybe you know whats wrong

  • Thread starter Thread starter B-Eazy
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B-Eazy

B-Eazy

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Well I was driving and the battery light came on, I noticed that when it was at higher rpm's (while merging) that the light went off, but came right back on when the rpm's dropped. The car is an 89 accord (yes I want to scrap it and buy another car, but I don't have the money right now). I was in line at Mc Donald's and the car started to idle very rough, so I put it in nuetral, it the rpm's jumped up to like 3000, so I put it in neutral and turned off the engine, but then it wouldn't start again, so I had to push it into a space (which really sucked). My friend came and gave me a jump and we got it running but it died again on the way home (and yes I went STRAIGHT home), so I push it off on to a side street off the main road and call my friend to give me another jump, he comes we let it sit for like 10 min charging but it wouldn't even turn over, none of the electronics (radio, windows, power locks) worked at all. Only the hazard lights would come on. Wouldn't turn over or anything. So I left and got a ride home with my friend, told my dad and we went back today (this happened yesterday) to get the car. We towed it to the shop, but I would like to get some other opinions. If you guys could help it would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.

B-Eazy
 
Possible a dead alternator, or a bad ground cable. Clean the battery terminals, the top of the battery, and clean the ground cable. I would leave the alternator to a shop.
 
Yep, sounds like your Alternator, not a big problem.
 
Get a new one

Sorry, I had to. I can't stand people calling a car/automobile, a whip. They're not one in the same. I'd say check the battery first. It sounds more like a bad ground than alternator, due to it's nature of just cutting out. There might be some corrosion or such near the terminal, which could easily cause problems. If not, I'd say check the wiring leading to the ground point on your car, for cracks and such. Make sure that the ground point on your car is clear as well, and that the bolt/screw is tight. If all things check out, then make sure your alternator is attached well, and that the cabling isn't frayed or cracked as well. Any cracks could cause a faulty ground, which would disable the use of your alternator.
 
Yes a bad ground or terminal is also a likely problem, ethier way its not a real problem and the mechanic can fix it fairly easily.
 
I got it back today and I was driving and it stalled, it did it a couple times...its an automatic. Is this because its just old, or can this problem be fixed?
 
Find a new mechanic. Seriously, if you take it in and they 'fix' it and you get it down the road and it repeats the previous problem again take the hint..
 
If it would be the alternator, then wouldn't the car still run normally when the engine is running? Your electrical stuff just wouldn't work properly?

We used to have an older Land Rover discovery (maybe a '92 - '94) and the alternator on that one died once, while we were driving the car. We didn't immediatly know what was wrong with it, but it did run home perfectly fine.
 
Apclps
If it would be the alternator, then wouldn't the car still run normally when the engine is running? Your electrical stuff just wouldn't work properly?
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Yes, intill after a fair while your battery gets so flat there isnt enough power for the electrics and ignition. Its alot worse on fuel injected cars.
 
VIPERGTSR01
Yes, intill after a fair while your battery gets so flat there isnt enough power for the electrics and ignition. Its alot worse on fuel injected cars.
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That is why I love having a older truck with a carberator, mechanical fuel pump and a magneto coil.... battery dies it will still run!!


And a nod to toyomatt84....
WHIP IT!!! Whip it good....
 

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Just like they said it is the alternator, bad ground or positive wire, or battery.
Once the alt dies the car runs on only the battery power. If you said you tried charging the battery and nothing happened after 10 minutes. Check the cables first. Not that hard to do. Just look at your battery and there are 2 cables running to it. Make sure they are tight and not corroded. If it doesnt take a charge after that then its the battery.
 
I'm no expert, but sounds to me as if 'its broken' - i'd ask for a more qualified opinion though if i were you.

But seriously, its defo a electrical problem, perhaps a computer glitch?
 
It seems like, with one exception, no one has said anything about the battery.
If the car is otherwise mechanically sound, and it has a new alternator, you need a battery.
My truck had a similar problem when I bought it. It had been sitting for a long while, and It wouldn't start without a jump. I took it over to the dealer, because I thought it was a charging problem. Turns out my battery was dead.
Got a new battery and the truck runs perfectly.
My wife can't start it...but is that really all bad?:lol:
 
Gil
It seems like, with one exception, no one has said anything about the battery.
If the car is otherwise mechanically sound, and it has a new alternator, you need a battery.
My truck had a similar problem when I bought it. It had been sitting for a long while, and It wouldn't start without a jump. I took it over to the dealer, because I thought it was a charging problem. Turns out my battery was dead.
Got a new battery and the truck runs perfectly.
My wife can't start it...but is that really all bad?:lol:
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A couple of us mentioned the battery already. Read our replies again.
toyomatt84 and I both mentioned it.
 
Actually, you were the one exception that I mentioned.
Matt's reply glossed over the battery, and went more for the charging system.

Still, I stand corrected.:D
 
VIPERGTSR01
Yes, intill after a fair while your battery gets so flat there isnt enough power for the electrics and ignition. Its alot worse on fuel injected cars.
Click to expand...

slimer90210
That is why I love having a older truck with a carberator, mechanical fuel pump and a magneto coil.... battery dies it will still run!!
Click to expand...

Says a lot about the older discovery generations :)

(loved that car)
 
You can physically take the battery right out of an old vehicle and if the alternator is good, the car will still run. Some new vehicles too but its not good for the new ones. :)
 
Yes thats one way to test your alternator, but if left too long you can damage the regualtor because its trying to put full charge into a battery that is dead flat but the battery isnt even there. So the reg is working in overload.
 
Some cars simply stall when they are:
1. not getting enough juice (electrical power to fire the plugs)
2. not getting enough juice (gasoline)
3. are in poor state of tune.
 
Good call, Gil. B-Eazy didn't say how many miles he has, but it might be time for a new fuel filter.

A goog mechanic will be able to pull a plug and see if the engine is getting good spark.
 
Sounds like the alternator. Your alternator belt also could be loose, and that's why it's charging at higher rpms but when the rpms drop the belt is too loose to turn the alternator. If the belt is not tight enough it won't be turning the alternator to charge and run the car. If the belt is too tight it will burn out the alternator.

It could be the battery. Take it out and bring it to your local autoparts store like autozone and have them test it.

You can also take out the alternator and have that tested. Also an easy job on most cars. My E350 powerstroke diesels rear (2nd battery) takes twice as long to remove than the alternator. Crazy.

And an FYI they test starters to.
 
0100
Sounds like the alternator. Your alternator belt also could be loose, and that's why it's charging at higher rpms but when the rpms drop the belt is too loose to turn the alternator. If the belt is not tight enough it won't be turning the alternator to charge and run the car. If the belt is too tight it will burn out the alternator.

It could be the battery. Take it out and bring it to your local autoparts store like autozone and have them test it.

You can also take out the alternator and have that tested. Also an easy job on most cars. My E350 powerstroke diesels rear (2nd battery) takes twice as long to remove than the alternator. Crazy.

And an FYI they test starters to.
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But isn't his Honda new enough to have a "serpentine" belt that runs all the accessories?
If it isn't turning the alternator, it should also not be turning the water pump, the the cooling fan, and a variety of other things. So the car should also be overheating. (at least in theory) Shouldn't it?
 
0100
Sounds like the alternator. Your alternator belt also could be loose, and that's why it's charging at higher rpms but when the rpms drop the belt is too loose to turn the alternator. If the belt is not tight enough it won't be turning the alternator to charge and run the car. If the belt is too tight it will burn out the alternator.

It could be the battery. Take it out and bring it to your local autoparts store like autozone and have them test it.

You can also take out the alternator and have that tested. Also an easy job on most cars. My E350 powerstroke diesels rear (2nd battery) takes twice as long to remove than the alternator. Crazy.

And an FYI they test starters to.
Click to expand...

The battery is brand new, they replaced it when they replaced the alternator since the battery was dead when they got it.
 
Gil
Some cars simply stall when they are:
1. not getting enough juice (electrical power to fire the plugs)
2. not getting enough juice (gasoline)
3. are in poor state of tune.
Click to expand...


Could it have anything to do with the transmission?
 

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