Need help deciding on a wheel

[SilverSE102]

Hi, I had my logitech driving force gt wheel break a couple weeks ago. Now I am looking into getting a new wheel, I am looking at 3 options currently.
1. Logitech G29
2. Thrustmaster T300 RS
3. Fanatec Porsche 911 gt2, CSR elite pedals

All 3 seem to be in the same price range, but I need help figuring out which wheel would be best for me. At the moment I only have a PS3, but eventually I am going to get a PS4. I have been looking through forums trying to learn more about the wheels.

I have a couple questions,
1. I only play on the PS3 at the moment, do I need a computer for updates or problems with any of these wheels?
2. For the T300, How reliable is this wheel? I've seen some threads that tell me to look else where.
3. How reliable is the 911 gt2 wheel? And is this wheel supported on PS4 other than project cars?
4. For the G29, since it is basically a G27. How smooth is the g27 vs the driving force gt?
For my rig, I use the fanatec csl seat. I emailed fanatec and they told me the t300 is compatible and if the G29 has the same measurements as the G25/ G27 it is also compatible as well.

Thanks

 

[skazz]

Quick answers:
1. I doubt the G29 has updateable firmware. The other two would come with recent firmware by default and since they are both mature tech I don't expect important firmware updates in the coming years. If they did need an update, you would need a PC (borrow a laptop, or something like that)
2. T300 has proven a challenge for Thrustmaster on quality control. The good news is that there are no structural "loads of people have this issue" problems, it's a mix of all kinds of niggles. The bad news is that there's a higher chance of having problems than your other choices, so I'd definitely advise buying from somewhere with a good RMA policy. It's unfortunate because the T300 is without doubt a better wheel than the GT2 or G29, and I can say this legitimately because I own the T300, GT2 and G25 myself.
3. My GT2 survived two years of heavy use easily (bit of wear on the Alcantara). The only issue I had before I retired it was when brand new, the codewheel sensor needed replacement. After that it was a solid performer.
4. G27 is lighter to turn than the DFGT, and the biggest benefit is that you don't feel the motor getting in the way when you want to countersteer quickly. It still has that feeling of moving cogs, though, which is something you feel much less on the T300 or GT2 because they are belt-driven.

As for the PS4 compatibility point: Remember that G29 and T300 are fully licensed and fully compatible with the PS4. Fanatec has arranged drivers for the GT2 which have been embedded in pCARS and F1 2015 so far, but not in Driveclub. Those drivers allow you to use the wheel in-game, but not in PS4 menus. Since Driveclub immediately added G29 support but still hasn't added Fanatec wheel support, I suspect that Sony is not interested in first party games (like Driveclub and Gran Turismo) supporting non-licensed wheels, but only time will tell. However, Fanatec is a risk compared to the G29 or T300 because of this.

 

[meepomancer]

Quick answers:
1. I doubt the G29 has updateable firmware. The other two would come with recent firmware by default and since they are both mature tech I don't expect important firmware updates in the coming years. If they did need an update, you would need a PC (borrow a laptop, or something like that)
2. T300 has proven a challenge for Thrustmaster on quality control. The good news is that there are no structural "loads of people have this issue" problems, it's a mix of all kinds of niggles. The bad news is that there's a higher chance of having problems than your other choices, so I'd definitely advise buying from somewhere with a good RMA policy. It's unfortunate because the T300 is without doubt a better wheel than the GT2 or G29, and I can say this legitimately because I own the T300, GT2 and G25 myself.
3. My GT2 survived two years of heavy use easily (bit of wear on the Alcantara). The only issue I had before I retired it was when brand new, the codewheel sensor needed replacement. After that it was a solid performer.
4. G27 is lighter to turn than the DFGT, and the biggest benefit is that you don't feel the motor getting in the way when you want to countersteer quickly. It still has that feeling of moving cogs, though, which is something you feel much less on the T300 or GT2 because they are belt-driven.

As for the PS4 compatibility point: Remember that G29 and T300 are fully licensed and fully compatible with the PS4. Fanatec has arranged drivers for the GT2 which have been embedded in pCARS and F1 2015 so far, but not in Driveclub. Those drivers allow you to use the wheel in-game, but not in PS4 menus. Since Driveclub immediately added G29 support but still hasn't added Fanatec wheel support, I suspect that Sony is not interested in first party games (like Driveclub and Gran Turismo) supporting non-licensed wheels, but only time will tell. However, Fanatec is a risk compared to the G29 or T300 because of this.

Hi, I had my logitech driving force gt wheel break a couple weeks ago. Now I am looking into getting a new wheel, I am looking at 3 options currently.
1. Logitech G29
2. Thrustmaster T300 RS
3. Fanatec Porsche 911 gt2, CSR elite pedals

All 3 seem to be in the same price range, but I need help figuring out which wheel would be best for me. At the moment I only have a PS3, but eventually I am going to get a PS4. I have been looking through forums trying to learn more about the wheels.

I have a couple questions,
1. I only play on the PS3 at the moment, do I need a computer for updates or problems with any of these wheels?
2. For the T300, How reliable is this wheel? I've seen some threads that tell me to look else where.
3. How reliable is the 911 gt2 wheel? And is this wheel supported on PS4 other than project cars?
4. For the G29, since it is basically a G27. How smooth is the g27 vs the driving force gt?
For my rig, I use the fanatec csl seat. I emailed fanatec and they told me the t300 is compatible and if the G29 has the same measurements as the G25/ G27 it is also compatible as well.

Thanks

I will buy my first wheel and im thinking of thrustmaster t500rs. It has the same price with g29 in my country. They say g27 is same with g29 and it has a dead zone in the center. I dont like the pedal of t300rs so i will buy t500rs for my ps4.

 

[skazz]

I will buy my first wheel and im thinking of thrustmaster t500rs. It has the same price with g29 in my country. They say g27 is same with g29 and it has a dead zone in the center. I dont like the pedal of t300rs so i will buy t500rs for my ps4.

The T500RS is an interesting case. Like the Fanatec wheels it's not officially licensed for the PS4, and also doesn't work to control PS4 menus.

However, Thrustmaster has a clear roadmap for PS4 in-game support, and have proven constantly that they are arranging in-game support. Driveclub works fine with the T500RS, for example (as I was testing last night).
The complete T500RS supported PS4 game overview is here, including a bunch of future PS4 race games:
http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=3&fid=15&pid=317&cid=12

While we all hope Fanatec will achieve the same level of support, only time will tell.

 

[SilverSE102]

Quick answers:
1. I doubt the G29 has updateable firmware. The other two would come with recent firmware by default and since they are both mature tech I don't expect important firmware updates in the coming years. If they did need an update, you would need a PC (borrow a laptop, or something like that)
2. T300 has proven a challenge for Thrustmaster on quality control. The good news is that there are no structural "loads of people have this issue" problems, it's a mix of all kinds of niggles. The bad news is that there's a higher chance of having problems than your other choices, so I'd definitely advise buying from somewhere with a good RMA policy. It's unfortunate because the T300 is without doubt a better wheel than the GT2 or G29, and I can say this legitimately because I own the T300, GT2 and G25 myself.
3. My GT2 survived two years of heavy use easily (bit of wear on the Alcantara). The only issue I had before I retired it was when brand new, the codewheel sensor needed replacement. After that it was a solid performer.
4. G27 is lighter to turn than the DFGT, and the biggest benefit is that you don't feel the motor getting in the way when you want to countersteer quickly. It still has that feeling of moving cogs, though, which is something you feel much less on the T300 or GT2 because they are belt-driven.

As for the PS4 compatibility point: Remember that G29 and T300 are fully licensed and fully compatible with the PS4. Fanatec has arranged drivers for the GT2 which have been embedded in pCARS and F1 2015 so far, but not in Driveclub. Those drivers allow you to use the wheel in-game, but not in PS4 menus. Since Driveclub immediately added G29 support but still hasn't added Fanatec wheel support, I suspect that Sony is not interested in first party games (like Driveclub and Gran Turismo) supporting non-licensed wheels, but only time will tell. However, Fanatec is a risk compared to the G29 or T300 because of this.

I figured the G29 and T300 were official wheels for the PS4 and PS3, I wasn't sure about support for the fanatec wheels on the PS4. The reason I asked about updating through a pc, because my current pc is over 10 years old and wouldn't be able to work with the wheels. i think I'll pass on the 911 gt2 wheel then. For the T300 pedals, would the CSR elite pedals work? Or are you only able to upgrade them to the T3PA pedals? Would Amazon be a good place to get the T300? How much smoother does the T300 feel vs the G27? Sorry for all the questions, just want to make the right choice considering the cost. Right now it's a toss up between the G29 and T300 RS.
Thanks

I will buy my first wheel and im thinking of thrustmaster t500rs. It has the same price with g29 in my country. They say g27 is same with g29 and it has a dead zone in the center. I dont like the pedal of t300rs so i will buy t500rs for my ps4.

Here in the U.S. the T500rs goes for $599 on Amazon right now.

 

[skazz]

Using CSR elite pedals with the T300 on consoles means purchasing a CPX adapter from Basherboards (see https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/thrustmaster-t300rs-racing-wheel-thread.311143/ first post for details). It's quite expensive and not always available, so you need to factor that in. T3PA or T3PA-Pro would work immediately, but if you want that load cell (rather than the rubber conical brake mod) then you would have to go the Fanatec pedals route.

T300 versus G27: they actually have a very similar feel, both are light to turn and react quickly. What you get with the T300 is considerably more power, no rattling, and smoother feel. Does it make you faster? No. Although I find that the extra power on the T300 allows it to react more realistically during oversteer, so when drifting with the G27 you will need to help the wheel out a lot, whereas the T300 can mostly be left to do its thing and you simply catch it. I should note that both are a massive upgrade from the DFGT in that respect, since with the DFGT you are also having to fight the motor resistance to spin the wheel quickly.

You and many others are making the G29 versus T300 choice. I suggest you have a look in the Project CARS forum here, because there are numerous threads talking about wheel options and experience is being given of both wheels: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...between-t300-and-g29-including-a-poll.330157/ as an example.

 

[kikie]

I can answer question 2 for you. Reliability of the T300RS is not as good as I expected. I bought one and after a few weeks the problems started. Had to return the T300RS after only one and a half month.

 

[VBR]

I have a GT2 & it's as buggy as can be on Project CARS, & it's also not officially licensed for PS4 so doesn't work with any other games (shame cos I got Driveclub too).

 

[SilverSE102]

Using CSR elite pedals with the T300 on consoles means purchasing a CPX adapter from Basherboards (see https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/thrustmaster-t300rs-racing-wheel-thread.311143/ first post for details). It's quite expensive and not always available, so you need to factor that in. T3PA or T3PA-Pro would work immediately, but if you want that load cell (rather than the rubber conical brake mod) then you would have to go the Fanatec pedals route.

T300 versus G27: they actually have a very similar feel, both are light to turn and react quickly. What you get with the T300 is considerably more power, no rattling, and smoother feel. Does it make you faster? No. Although I find that the extra power on the T300 allows it to react more realistically during oversteer, so when drifting with the G27 you will need to help the wheel out a lot, whereas the T300 can mostly be left to do its thing and you simply catch it. I should note that both are a massive upgrade from the DFGT in that respect, since with the DFGT you are also having to fight the motor resistance to spin the wheel quickly.

You and many others are making the G29 versus T300 choice. I suggest you have a look in the Project CARS forum here, because there are numerous threads talking about wheel options and experience is being given of both wheels: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...between-t300-and-g29-including-a-poll.330157/ as an example.

Thanks for the link, after reading that thread and one from from a project cars forum. I just wanted to , For me it seemed like only a handful of people like the G29. But everyone else is bashing it due to the G27 not being PS4 compatible and being more money. I wouldn't mind giving the T300 a shot, but what I hear about reliability scares the crap out of me for this wheel. I know the G29 won't be without it's own problems and issues, I think I may wait a little longer to see a comparison video of both wheels before I make my decision. If I decide to go with the T300, where would you recommend ordering it from? I thought Amazon would be a good option.

I can answer question 2 for you. Reliability of the T300RS is not as good as I expected. I bought one and after a few weeks the problems started. Had to return the T300RS after only one and a half month.

I think this what is stopping me from ordering this wheel at the moment, I keep seeing posts like this about the wheel breaking.

 

[kikie]

I think this what is stopping me from ordering this wheel at the moment, I keep seeing posts like this about the wheel breaking.

That is a problem but that doesn't mean that, if you order a T300RS, it will be broken or goes "kaputt" after a while. But TM seems to have a problem with this wheel.
Another but ..... but Thrustmaster's customers service is very good.

It is still a decent wheel.


EDIT; Decent kikie, not descent.

 

[skazz]

That is a problem but that doesn't mean that, if you order a T300RS, it will be broken or goes "kaputt" after a while. But TM seems to have a problem with this wheel.
Another but ..... but Thrustmaster's customers service is very good.

It is still a descent wheel.

To bring in some other data points... I and many others have 6-9 month old T300 wheels which work perfectly. I personally don't subscribe to the "it will break soon" theory, I reckon the design is robust enough that as long as the parts are properly checked during QA it will have a normal lifespan. Maybe I'll be telling a different story if my T300 were to break during the next year, we shall see.

 

[SilverSE102]

I think I'm going to order the T300RS in the next couple days, I'll keep you all posted. I miss not having a wheel, I was getting to the point where I was getting better lap times with the wheel than the controller before it broke.

Thanks

 

[jay.s]

To bring in some other data points... I and many others have 6-9 month old T300 wheels which work perfectly. I personally don't subscribe to the "it will break soon" theory, I reckon the design is robust enough that as long as the parts are properly checked during QA it will have a normal lifespan. Maybe I'll be telling a different story if my T300 were to break during the next year, we shall see.

I am one of the people who got the first batch of wheels in November 2015 and as it turns out it ended up being faulty developing a clicking sound within 2 weeks/14 days after purchase.... it got replaced in 5 days (shopto.net) and the new unit has been absolutely perfect since and i have never looked back once In the unlikely event it now wants to go wrong then it will also be getting sent back for a new wheel as I am sure TM would of ironed out most/all of the early problems by now The TH8A and T3PA have been absolutely perfect out of the box.

 

[kikie]

As I said in another thread, I bought a second hand, barely used and almost new G27.

I am one of the people who got the first batch of wheels in November 2015 and as it turns out it ended up being faulty developing a clicking sound within 2 weeks/14 days after purchase.... it got replaced in 5 days (shopto.net) and the new unit has been absolutely perfect since and i have never looked back once In the unlikely event it now wants to go wrong then it will also be getting sent back for a new wheel as I am sure TM would of ironed out most/all of the early problems by now The TH8A and T3PA have been absolutely perfect out of the box.

Huh? It seems that I live in the past.

 

[jay.s]

As I said in another thread, I bought a second hand, barely used and almost new G27.

Huh? It seems that I live in the past.

I wish you all the luck with it and should provide many years of trouble free gaming ( got 5+ years out of the G25 )

urm , yeah tyro error sorry , obviously talking about Nov 2014

 

[kikie]

Now that I have a G27 again, I feel the difference between the T300RS and the G27. The T300RS is the better wheel. But the G27 is also a very good wheel.

 

[SilverSE102]

Well, I just ordered the T300RS. I hope I made the right choice. I will update when I get it, and run it on gt6. Thanks for the help everyone.

 

[Spitfire77]

Yay another thread for this!

Well, I just ordered the T300RS. I hope I made the right choice. I will update when I get it, and run it on gt6. Thanks for the help everyone.

It is a great wheel - just remember to keep your receipt or invoice and don't void the warranty. When I first got mine and I was playing GT6 I started with the force feed back settings at 4 str and 4 sensitivity right around there is a good starting point.

 

[SilverSE102]

Well, I finally got my t300rs. It took me a while to bolt it up to my fanatec csl seat, but once I got going the wheel feels great. It is a lot smoother than the dfgt wheel by far, even the force feed back is better. I only owned a dfgt wheel and I can say the stock pedals for the t300 are a huge upgrade, the brake is a bit harder to push than the gas but I like them. One thing I'm not sure about is the cooling fan operation, when I first turn it on and go into a race the fan sounds like it is on low. Within a few minutes of racing I hear the fan kick into high gear, but when I leave the race for a minute or so the fan goes back to low. Is this normal?

Yay another thread for this!


It is a great wheel - just remember to keep your receipt or invoice and don't void the warranty. When I first got mine and I was playing GT6 I started with the force feed back settings at 4 str and 4 sensitivity right around there is a good starting point.

Thanks, I turned both to 4. I just have to get used to using a wheel again.

 

[Spitfire77]

... One thing I'm not sure about is the cooling fan operation, when I first turn it on and go into a race the fan sounds like it is on low. Within a few minutes of racing I hear the fan kick into high gear, but when I leave the race for a minute or so the fan goes back to low. Is this normal?


.

The fan is automatic as the FFB brushless motor gets hot it turns on and will run until the motor temp is back down. If you are playing constantly the fan is expected to be on. I also do not disconnect the usb from the console, turn off the console, or unplug the power form the T300 base until the T300 cooling fan turns off. In a warm room after a 1 hour race my T300 fan ran for about 20mins before it turned off.. I have no proof that letting the fan run until it is cooled off is good for it, but it just seems like a good idea to me.

Not sure if the fan is low or off - but i mean just not turning off the t300 while the fan is running on high.

 

[SilverSE102]

The fan is automatic as the FFB brushless motor gets hot it turns on and will run until the motor temp is back down. If you are playing constantly the fan is expected to be on. I also do not disconnect the usb from the console, turn off the console, or unplug the power form the T300 base until the T300 cooling fan turns off. In a warm room after a 1 hour race my T300 fan ran for about 20mins before it turned off.. I have no proof that letting the fan run until it is cooled off is good for it, but it just seems like a good idea to me.

Not sure if the fan is low or off - but i mean just not turning off the t300 while the fan is running on high.

I played for a 1/2 hour, when I first plugged it I noticed the fan was on low and after a few minutes of racing in a seasonal event the went to high. After leaving the event, the fan went back to low within minutes. I have a/c at home, so the room is cool. Before I turned it off I waited for it to go on low fan speed, just to be safe. I am assuming this is normal then, thanks for the help.

 

[LeMansAid]

I also do not disconnect the usb from the console, turn off the console, or unplug the power form the T300 base until the T300 cooling fan turns off.

I feel like I remember reading that the T500's manual recommends a similar practice. It's a good principle for quite a few applications anyway - like giving a pc a few minutes before shutting down after it's been performing gpu and cpu intensive actions.