NO more (maker) cars for me: cars that put you off the manufacturer.

[Gil]

And, see, I had a 1992 Dodge base Caravan, also my first brand-new vehicle. It went 100k miles without any issue at all; just 1 set of plugs and a full set of brakes. The worst that happened was the speed sensor crapped out (once under warranty, once on my nickel), which was a <$50 part I changed in the driveway. I'd still own it today if it hadn't been rear-ended by some twit on her cell phone. The paint even still looked good.

And I'm not even jealous that you got the only good one.

And Dave, I have priced out other key fobs. But they've still been damn expensive.
If I thought that programming the thing would be easy, I might pull the trigger on one of the other supplier's fobs.
But I've learned over the years, that as soon as I think "How hard could it be?" I'm in for the bad experience of a lifetime.
I know the key fob only has 2 buttons. But How many millions of dollars does the piece of equipment cost that will be required to effectively sync the new fobs to my car?

 

[TrievelA7X]

it's been a bleep of a week involving my Caravan. I've never had so many problems crop up so FAST with any of my vehicles.

here's how it went
1. brakes suddenly get panic-attack inducing soft
2. I waffle for a week or so till I think I can afford to get it fixed
3. instead of heading to a dealership or Garage, I finally tell my step-father
4. after tests, they decide a caliper has blown out a new one is put on
5. still no response. deduce the brake isn't getting any fluid
6. they check around, and deduce the ABS computer's gone, instead
7. they raid a Junkyard for an ABS module
8. said module is off a 99 Town and Country, and has traction control. I point this out.
9. they spend two days attempting to get the original pulled from the wiring harness. they can't figure out how to undo the clip
10. they break two break lines unhooking them from the ABS. now the lines all need replaced.
11 they pull the lines while trying to unhook the ABS box...they're already rotting through, anyway. decides to replace the lot
12 parts store gives him rigid lines
13 they finally get the box off, and the other module won't even go on the wiring harness. they finally notice it's Traction control equipped, and go to replace it. (i don't have Traction Control)
14 they get the proper type module home, and it doesn't fit EITHER. turns out a plastic dust-shield is stuck inside the wiring harness
15 after much aggravation, everything is finally hooked back up. the brakes STILL don't work!
16 more tests. they finally find the problem. the Master Cylinder had blown
17. I run out to buy a new master. they drop it in. problem solved? NOT!
18 i get ONE afternoon's run. this morning, after only one mile or less POW. no brakes.
19 after bumming a vehicle for my morning run, the defect is spotted. a rear wheel cylinder had blown out from being under pressure properly for the first time in ages.
20 due to the expense of the other brake parts and paying for the borrowed vehicle's gas, plus my insurance, I'm too broke to buy a wheel cylinder, and have to wait till next Tuesday.

all this instant aggravation (I've only had the van since January) has put me totally off touching another Chrysler product. and this was during Mercedes' Ownership of Chrysler!
anyone else had a troublesome vehicle that's put you off ever owning another from the same corporation?

note, people, you can rant about ANY manufacturer that's given you trouble that makes you wanna ignore all the vehicles from that company.

And you blame the vehicle for inept repair attempts why?
Now, I'll be the first to tell you your tranny's going to blow up, because of what vehicle you bought, but people you know incorrectly diagnosing and "repairing" and continually breaking different parts of your car is their fault, and their's only. For Christ's sake, they bought a TCS module, despite you telling them you don't have TCS.

12 parts store gives him rigid lines

Yes, most auto parts stores sell oem replacement parts, but not actual factory equipment, and as we all know, stainless steel, or stainless steel braided lines are more durable and reliable, so if they fit, you're much better off with them than what came with the car, consider it an upgrade of sorts.

19 after bumming a vehicle for my morning run, the defect is spotted. a rear wheel cylinder had blown out from being under pressure properly for the first time in ages.

This was 99.99999% likely the problem from the beginning, and was never noticed. I say this because my brothers rear wheel cylinder on his Jeep was leaking about 3 weeks ago, lost most brake pedal feel, exactly as you describe, I slapped on a new rear wheel cylinder in about 15 minutes, and TADA! brakes work perfectly again.

But now, due to makeshift mechanics just buying everything it could possibly be to fix the problem, one by one, until they replace everything in the brake system, it's cost you quite the pretty penny.
So, with no disrespect intended to your stepfather, and whomever helped him "diagnose" and "fix" your car, unless you're 100% sure next time, you'll save time and grief by taking it to a shop.
Oh, and don't blame the car. It has one of the worst transmissions ever, but the brake system is fine. Hell, yours is almost brand new.

 

[Sniffs]

treivel: I blame the manufacturer for deliberately rigging the vehicle so that only the dealership garage can work on it. also, please remember that the generation I had working on the thing still think in terms of carbs , inch size tires, and no emissions equipment getting in the way of an oil change.

also, have you ever heard of trying to save money? i had an alignment cost me 500 dollars because the shop was screwing around for 6 hours. and they broke a weld on the suspension that destroyed the brake system trying to get it aligned to the wrong year's specs! and you wonder why I don't take it to a shop? the noobs in place nowadays are trained only to work on last year's cars, and complain about the constant need to update their skills. the older guys that can handle stuff quickly are fed up and have quit, or at retirement age.

and for your information, Trannies are the ONLY area i don't have trouble with. even an ancient ford 3 speed in my first car that had a porus case didn't misbehave. I have more trouble with electrics literally burning out on me.

 

[Danoff]

'93 Ford Explorer XLT

AC compressor died near 70kmi
Engine mount broke at ~70kmi
Suspension began to sag at 80kmi
Driver seat was absolute junk at 100kmi
Power window motor died at 100kmi
Power lock motor died at 110kmi
Power steering problems at 120kmi
Major engine malfunction at 120kmi which, after many trips to the dealership and $2000 was still not fixed.

Sold for not much at 125kmi with wonky engine and power steering issues. No thanks Ford. Fool me once, shame on.... shame on you?

 

[TheBook]

'93 Ford ExplorerExploder XLT

Fixed that for ya.

 

[homeforsummer]

FIFTY kilos? sure you don't mean FIVE?

Nope, I mean fifty. They still aren't heavy cars but their French rivals from the mid-nineties were a lot lighter. And yet, don't seem to rust as easily, despite their other failings. Go figure.

 

[eSZee]

No thanks Ford. Fool me once, shame on.... shame on you?

So there were 2 problems before the car hit 100k, blown struts on a SUV who would've thought, and that makes it junk?
I hate old ford interiors as much as the next guy but I don't really see the problem.

 

[Danoff]

So there were 2 problems before the car hit 100k, blown struts on a SUV who would've thought, and that makes it junk?
I hate old ford interiors as much as the next guy but I don't really see the problem.

Best I could tell the engine was beyond the repair capabilities of the dealership at 120kmi - and lots of stuff either died or wore out before then. I should qualify that the car was mine from 60-125kmi.

That's about half the life span I'm looking for.

 

[eSZee]

Best I could tell the engine was beyond the repair capabilities of the dealership at 120kmi - and lots of stuff either died or wore out before then. I should qualify that the car was mine from 60-125kmi.

That's about half the life span I'm looking for.

Engine swap on that car was maybe $400, but that's easy for me to say.
I think it's less the car's fault and more your high expectations and/or previous owner incompetence. You were expecting the car to go 180k miles with no issues? It's an early 90s ford, you got more out of it than most people. Did it have maintenance records from previous owner?
I fix everything on my cars myself but still fill the service books and keep receipts for the parts I replace/upgrade.
I'm not saying there's no chance that he car was just crap, I'm just saying there are other explanations.
Also new Ford cars are very well made and ignoring them cause of a 20 year old 2nd hand vehicle isn't maybe the smartest thing to do.

 

[Duke]

'93 Ford Explorer XLT

Suspension began to sag at 80kmi

That doesn't seem unreasonable at all. I would expect to replace my struts and springs at 80kmi without feeling bad about it. In fact a number of those items seem like routine 100kmi maintenance, though I don't know what the "major engine malfunction" was.

Though I never have ridden in a Ford with decent seats; even brand new they suck.

That's about half the life span I'm looking for.

You're never going to get that far without replacing parts. And that's coming from a guy who's personally owned 3 cars each with over 250,000 miles on them, and been related to numerous others.

 

[eSZee]

Though I never have ridden in a Ford with decent seats; even brand new they suck.

I don't think there were any fords pre 2008 that had an acceptable interior.
Well, actually, my old 88 merkur scorpio was very nice, and very euro.

 

[Danoff]

Engine swap on that car was maybe $400, but that's easy for me to say.

uh... ok.

I think it's less the car's fault and more your high expectations and/or previous owner incompetence. You were expecting the car to go 180k miles with no issues? It's an early 90s ford, you got more out of it than most people. Did it have maintenance records from previous owner?

I'd like to have gotten to near 200k miles before the engine died and couldn't be fixed yes.

Also new Ford cars are very well made and ignoring them cause of a 20 year old 2nd hand vehicle isn't maybe the smartest thing to do.

I've owned/been intimately involved with 10 cars at this point in my life. The explorer was the worst in terms of reliability only behind the Chrysler lebaron which was salvaged for parts at ~130kmi.

That doesn't seem unreasonable at all. I would expect to replace my struts and springs at 80kmi without feeling bad about it.

I did. But I've had a number of cars up over that mark without needing it.

In fact a number of those items seem like routine 100kmi maintenance, though I don't know what the "major engine malfunction" was.

Me neither. Car wouldn't run. Dealership couldn't fix it.

Though I never have ridden in a Ford with decent seats; even brand new they suck.

Believe it or not they get worse quickly.

You're never going to get that far without replacing parts. And that's coming from a guy who's personally owned 3 cars each with over 250,000 miles on them, and been related to numerous others.

I expect well over 100,000 out of the AC. I don't expect engine mounts to break. I expect to get over 100,000 out of the shocks (though that may have been previous owner abuse). I want 150k out of the seats at a minimum. I want 200k out of my power windows and locks. 200k for power steering, and 200k minimum for the engine to remain at least fixable.

Perhaps this sounds like a lot to ask to you guys - but I'm appalled at how much some auto manufacturers allow to break. I suppose you should take it with a grain of salt from someone who has owned two Hondas and is subsequently spoiled rotten. If it'd had one of two of these problems (aside from the engine), I'd have thought it was ok. All of them = bad reliability in my book.

 

[Rykon Zero]

It's not really the whole brand, but the line of cars. For the rest of my time alive, I'll never buy a Ford Taurus. A second gen SHO, maybe, but nothing else. My brother's car is so utterly terrible, I shudder at thinking about fixing it. The transmission's broke, so I have to remove almost the entire suspension, as well as the steering rack and the engine itself to get at that transmission, which is too expensive for me anyway.

I say that the car has turned me off the line, because I happen to really like the Ford Ranger.

 

[Philly]

I really, really should hate Volkswagens but somehow I just can't not love them...

Funny that my dad will never buy an American car though. I feel like our old '88 Taurus did that.

 

[astrosdude91]

Danoff, I think you got a bad truck out of the bunch.

My Ranger turns 20 this January, and it hasn't broken a sweat. The 4-banger is in perfect condition, the interior is as good as new, and it runs perfectly. Though, I will concede that some of the dials on the instrummental cluster do not work, including the gas guage! And the A/C does not work, which during a Houston summer is absolute hell! (High heat, high humidity.) But there is a leak somewhere, because when I recharge the pump, it keeps cool for a while and leaks a/c the whole time it has it. So at least that problem is fixable. It really lives up to the slogan Ford had for it's trucks back in the day: "The best never rest", and this truck will not quit!

And it's not just the Ranger. My friend has a '95 Explorer, that truck has over 200,000 miles on the odometer, before it stopped working, about 13,000 miles ago. He ABUSES that SUV, and it does not give at all!

Maybe you just had a bad egg.

 

[TrievelA7X]

trievel: I blame the manufacturer for deliberately rigging the vehicle so that only the dealership garage can work on it.

Please do explain.
I can do it. I'm not trained in any way.

also, please remember that the generation I had working on the thing still think in terms of carbs , inch size tires, and no emissions equipment getting in the way of an oil change.

And yet you blame the car manufacture for -

deliberately rigging the vehicle so that only the dealership garage can work on it.

Really?

also, have you ever heard of trying to save money?

also, please remember that the generation I had working on the thing still think in terms of carbs , inch size tires, and no emissions equipment getting in the way of an oil change

And I'm telling you how to save money, by not letting these guys ever touch one of your cars again.
And....

and no emissions equipment getting in the way of an oil change

What emissions equipment gets in the way of an oil change exactly?

i had an alignment cost me 500 dollars because the shop was screwing around for 6 hours. and they broke a weld on the suspension that destroyed the brake system trying to get it aligned to the wrong year's specs!

Let me guess, you said nothing? Did nothing? Dirty mechanics can smell when the owner knows nothing about cars a mile away, and they took you for it. And what do you mean destroyed the brake system? Are you talking about this rear wheel cylinder that has nothing to do with alignment, or still assuming that all the parts replaced by home mechanics not even you speak highly of in terms of skill broke and replaced?

and you wonder why I don't take it to a shop?

Find a better one.

the noobs in place nowadays are trained only to work on last year's cars, and complain about the constant need to update their skills. the older guys that can handle stuff quickly are fed up and have quit, or at retirement age.

Then I guess the world is doomed. What do you want to hear? It sounds like you had one bad shop experience, and assume every shop you ever visit will rape you now. Learn, fix yourself, that's what I did, buy a Hanes manual, or better, a Chiltons manual, and learn.

and for your information, Trannies are the ONLY area i don't have trouble with. even an ancient ford 3 speed in my first car that had a porus case didn't misbehave. I have more trouble with electrics literally burning out on me.

And for your information, the tranny's drive great, until one day BOOOOOOM! CRACK!
Google it. (99 dodge caravan transmission problems)
Or whatever exact year and model yours is, they're everywhere. I know, I googled it when my girlfriends uncles town and country went BOOOOM! CRACK! - Trans blew out, as did the engine, I didn't get a look, but he whom replaced said motor and trans (for free - wifes uncle) said the trans blew and took the motor with it, or vice verse, I'm not sure.

So, you can take it for what it's worth, I'm just trying to help steer you in the right direction, keep those guys away from your car, and if you can't find a good honest, reliable shop, learn, learn to do-it-yourself.

It's not really the whole brand, but the line of cars. For the rest of my time alive, I'll never buy a Ford Taurus. A second gen SHO, maybe, but nothing else. My brother's car is so utterly terrible, I shudder at thinking about fixing it. The transmission's broke, so I have to remove almost the entire suspension, as well as the steering rack and the engine itself to get at that transmission, which is too expensive for me anyway.

I say that the car has turned me off the line, because I happen to really like the Ford Ranger.

Welcome to FWD. Although, you don't need to remove the engine, while I can't say for 100%, I'd definitely put money down that you can leave the engine in, it's just a tight squeeze, and possibly harder to accomplish, minus unhooking a gazillion wires and hoses.

Oh, and save yourself from any Ford that's not a truck, unless it's a fairly new car, their cars were rubbish for a loooong time.

 

[jet1991]

This is my cars engine bay:

The only thing you can do without removing emissions equipment is change oil and adjust the carburettor. And the engine bay is a lot more cluttered than it looks from these pictures. Damn 1970`s...

 

[Sniffs]

trie: 1. I always typo IE's and EI's
2. there's a transverse 3.3v6 stuffed under a hood only about 3 foot long. don't ask me where the firewall is. you get to some things by removing every single pipe and hose in your way
3. Old Guys actually KNOW what they're doing. I'd rather trust somebody with 40 some odd years of experience and the ability to make a jury rig work than pay 60-90 dollars an hour for guys that lean on their toolboxes 75% of the day. (thus the complaint about the shop that took 6 hours because there were three guys working on 8-10 cars at ONCE, they were overloaded)
because of the hoses for the Air Conditioning, cooling lines, emission control hoses, air conditioner lines, and any decorative covers to HIDE all that crap on the new cars. often as not, an oil filter must only be gotten from the bottom. and you better hope there's no wiring harness,transmission, brake and lower radiator hoses in your way that would make it impossible to either get your hand or a filter wrench in there.
the suspension piece on my 4Runner broke 8 months AFTER they screwed with it. the hard brake line happened to be attached TO that particular suspension piece, and snapped it in half. since the morons in Japan (for once) put a single chamber, one way master cylinder on it, I lost every drop of brake fluid, and nearly took out an Aveo.

Haynes manuals don't provide enough information, nowadays, and Chiltons are so full of technicalese (and requirements for 100 dollar dealer shop tools for a single use), they're best used by shoppies.

the private car shops are crooks that take your money, the major shops are even bigger crooks, and the dealerships give you a dirty look if you bring in anything not shiny and new. they tend to train for the NEWEST vehicles, and forget the techs for older ones.

as for DIY; a, we don't have the lift or jackstands for proper work, not even a crawler; B I have a learning disability called Dyspraxia or Developmental Coordination Disorder that messes with my movements, coordination, and even wrist strength. it hurts to write cursive, I typo constantly, and I have to take pills for it. it effects Europans more than it does Americans (who have more problems with attention deficit problems, and I may have that also). it took me 5 YEARS to get a driver's licence.

and, btw, you been Pwned by a site noob with those pictures. and a European noob, at that, with a 70's car! *high five's Jet1991*

oh, you can laugh your butt off, now. I hit a deer thismorning, holed something in my radiator area, and took the tranny with it. at least you were right about ford's cars. they're not to well assembled.

 

[TrievelA7X]

This is my cars engine bay:

The only thing you can do without removing emissions equipment is change oil and adjust the carburettor. And the engine bay is a lot more cluttered than it looks from these pictures. Damn 1970`s...

But he insinuated that you can't change his oil without emissions getting in the way.
But, you show a pic of your working vehicle from the 70's, it must be possible to fix, no?
plus from what I see, other than you owning a stupidly configured hood, once you take the hood off, it doesn't look bad, most engines are hard to fix from only the side and rear of the engine bay. Show me a pic with the hood off from the front, it should only be a few bolts.

trie: 1. I always typo IE's and EI's
2. there's a transverse 3.3v6 stuffed under a hood only about 3 foot long. don't ask me where the firewall is. you get to some things by removing every single pipe and hose in your way
3. Old Guys actually KNOW what they're doing. I'd rather trust somebody with 40 some odd years of experience and the ability to make a jury rig work than pay 60-90 dollars an hour for guys that lean on their toolboxes 75% of the day. (thus the complaint about the shop that took 6 hours because there were three guys working on 8-10 cars at ONCE, they were overloaded)
because of the hoses for the Air Conditioning, cooling lines, emission control hoses, air conditioner lines, and any decorative covers to HIDE all that crap on the new cars. often as not, an oil filter must only be gotten from the bottom. and you better hope there's no wiring harness,transmission, brake and lower radiator hoses in your way that would make it impossible to either get your hand or a filter wrench in there.
the suspension piece on my 4Runner broke 8 months AFTER they screwed with it. the hard brake line happened to be attached TO that particular suspension piece, and snapped it in half. since the morons in Japan (for once) put a single chamber, one way master cylinder on it, I lost every drop of brake fluid, and nearly took out an Aveo.

Haynes manuals don't provide enough information, nowadays, and Chiltons are so full of technicalese (and requirements for 100 dollar dealer shop tools for a single use), they're best used by shoppies.

the private car shops are crooks that take your money, the major shops are even bigger crooks, and the dealerships give you a dirty look if you bring in anything not shiny and new. they tend to train for the NEWEST vehicles, and forget the techs for older ones.

as for DIY; a, we don't have the lift or jackstands for proper work, not even a crawler; B I have a learning disability called Dyspraxia or Developmental Coordination Disorder that messes with my movements, coordination, and even wrist strength. it hurts to write cursive, I typo constantly, and I have to take pills for it. it effects Europans more than it does Americans (who have more problems with attention deficit problems, and I may have that also). it took me 5 YEARS to get a driver's licence.


oh, you can laugh your butt off, now. I hit a deer thismorning, holed something in my radiator area, and took the tranny with it. at least you were right about ford's cars. they're not to well assembled.

All I have of those tools is jackstands, which retail for about 20$. As per the rest, I don't know what of it is true, but it's really reaching. Maybe they're all "reasons" to you, but I know the Chilton's and Haynes manuals are good enough to swap anything in your car, whether you or someone you know can use them, I don't know.
But basically, it sounds like you came in here looking to bust on a specific vehicle, and won't be satisfied until you've done so.
And also, like I said, I know a '99 Town & Country, with a 3.3, being the common engine, and I know what the engine bay looks like.
I also owned a 96 Stratus, with an almost equally cramped engine bay.

So your questions should be: How does anyone fix them? - Because people do. And they do it without crawlers or lifts.

and, btw, you been Pwned by a site noob with those pictures. and a European noob, at that, with a 70's car! *high five's Jet1991*

You mean the one that posted a pic and stated he could change the oil without emissions getting in the way?


Now, I posted trying to help, you obviously don't have to take it, but if you can't do it yourself, then find somebody who will, without finding the problem by replacing every possible problem part until they eventually find the actual problem. There is no more expensive way to do it.
My "backup" plan, or what I do when there's more than one possibillity to a problem, is take the vehicle to a diagnostics center, spend about $70 to find the problem, then take it home and fix it. Or in your case, have them fix it, that way they won't have to deduce by what they've already had you buy and replace.

 

[mustangGT90210]

It's not really the whole brand, but the line of cars. For the rest of my time alive, I'll never buy a Ford Taurus. A second gen SHO, maybe, but nothing else. My brother's car is so utterly terrible, I shudder at thinking about fixing it. The transmission's broke, so I have to remove almost the entire suspension, as well as the steering rack and the engine itself to get at that transmission, which is too expensive for me anyway.

I say that the car has turned me off the line, because I happen to really like the Ford Ranger.

You can not go wrong with a Ford truck. The cars and trucks are 2 different monsters. That being said, you want an F-Series, not a Ranger

2009 Ranger is basically the same truck as the '84 Ranger, just refreshed, same frame, suspension, etc.

 

[jet1991]

But he insinuated that you can't change his oil without emissions getting in the way.
But, you show a pic of your working vehicle from the 70's, it must be possible to fix, no?
plus from what I see, other than you owning a stupidly configured hood, once you take the hood off, it doesn't look bad, most engines are hard to fix from only the side and rear of the engine bay. Show me a pic with the hood off from the front, it should only be a few bolts.

The engine was professinally rebuilt and modified just before I bought the car. Thats why it still works.

This is a picture of a similar car (1973 - 1979, not 1978):

The whole front end of the car is HUGE. It`s very hard to reach anything without leaning over and\or crawling over the fenders. And you can`t reach the engine from the front, hood or not. But the earlier corvettes should be easier to work on (never tried, 1970 corvette pictured):

But you can easily change oil and filter by lifting up the car. Haven`t done it yet myself, but I just bought the oil and I already got filters. Gonna get started tomorrow or the day after.

Don`t misunderstand me, I love the car. But I could have done without all that emission equipment stuff.

 

[Rykon Zero]

You can not go wrong with a Ford truck. The cars and trucks are 2 different monsters. That being said, you want an F-Series, not a Ranger

2009 Ranger is basically the same truck as the '84 Ranger, just refreshed, same frame, suspension, etc.

I want a very small truck. With a manual, and almost no options, except for a radio and fan, and no 4WD.

So, unless I'm taller than the truck I'm driving, I neither want it nor need it, at least at this point.

EDIT: My uncle has a 2005 version exactly like that, so I know what I'm rambling about.

 

[eSZee]

I want a very small truck. With a manual, and almost no options, except for a radio and fan, and no 4WD.

So, unless I'm taller than the truck I'm driving, I neither want it nor need it, at least at this point.

EDIT: My uncle has a 2005 version exactly like that, so I know what I'm rambling about.

Those indian or chinese trucks are coming out in a few months. They seem to be made just for you.

 

[TrievelA7X]

The engine was professinally rebuilt and modified just before I bought the car. Thats why it still works.

This is a picture of a similar car (1973 - 1979, not 1978):

The whole front end of the car is HUGE. It`s very hard to reach anything without leaning over and\or crawling over the fenders. And you can`t reach the engine from the front, hood or not. But the earlier corvettes should be easier to work on (never tried, 1970 corvette pictured):

But you can easily change oil and filter by lifting up the car. Haven`t done it yet myself, but I just bought the oil and I already got filters. Gonna get started tomorrow or the day after.

Don`t misunderstand me, I love the car. But I could have done without all that emission equipment stuff.

Well, from the sounds of it, it's the old-fashioned original "mechanical" emissions equipment you don't like, I can't say as I've never dealt with it, only the newer electronic emissions equipment, which usually consists of a wire, with a plug on the end that clips into a module of some type.
But back then..... they did all kinds of weird things with hoses from what I see in the pictures. But it's still a small block Chevy, can't be toooooo difficult.

 

[KSaiyu]

VW - I don't know where they get this "solidly built" reputation from but the shoddy quality of some of the parts of their 00 - 06 cars must be legendary:

-The pedal box on Mk 4 Polos.
-The whole Anti Roll Bar needing to be changed instead of just bushes.
-The central locking on....take your pick.

And don't mention the dealer network, seems to be only behind Kwik Fit from my experience. Last month a customer comes in with a 09 Golf saying VW have told him he needs new rear pads and discs...

 

[astrosdude91]

You can not go wrong with a Ford truck. The cars and trucks are 2 different monsters. That being said, you want an F-Series, not a Ranger

2009 Ranger is basically the same truck as the '84 Ranger, just refreshed, same frame, suspension, etc.

No, I'm pretty sure he would want a Ranger, They're probably better.
And there is nothing wrong the lack of change with the Ranger, it's a Tradition of Heritage!

I want a very small truck. With a manual, and almost no options, except for a radio and fan, and no 4WD.

So, unless I'm taller than the truck I'm driving, I neither want it nor need it, at least at this point.

EDIT: My uncle has a 2005 version exactly like that, so I know what I'm rambling about.

Yes, you want a Ranger. You can't go wrong with a Ranger.👍

I even found a '91 5 speed for you, it's in Seattle!

 

[Sniffs]

Treivel: i'll put everything I've been trying to say like this. i personally am mechanically incompetent. i break the dang tools! and it's ALWAYS more than just an oil change. since I buy used, EVERYTHING needs replaced. and I can't do it without stripping threads, rounding off bolts, etc.
give me something with electronics, though...
Stignumbers: hope you don't ever get stuck in snow, then

 

[Gil]

The engine was professinally rebuilt and modified just before I bought the car. Thats why it still works.

This is a picture of a similar car (1973 - 1979, not 1978):

The whole front end of the car is HUGE. It`s very hard to reach anything without leaning over and\or crawling over the fenders. And you can`t reach the engine from the front, hood or not. But the earlier corvettes should be easier to work on (never tried, 1970 corvette pictured):

But you can easily change oil and filter by lifting up the car. Haven`t done it yet myself, but I just bought the oil and I already got filters. Gonna get started tomorrow or the day after.

Don`t misunderstand me, I love the car. But I could have done without all that emission equipment stuff.

The pic of the blue Vette takes me back to one more reason, I'm not crazy about old Chevys. (Have issues with new ones too, but they are too numerous to go into right now).
Who's crazy idea was it to put the distibutor on the back of the motor?
That particular arrangement means that you can either set your timing by ear. Or you need a third hand.
I know it's possible to set the timing alone using the timing marks on the harmonic balancer and a timing light.
But it would be a lot easier if they were right next to each other like in a Mopar or a Ford.

 

[Jim Prower]

Well, from the sounds of it, it's the old-fashioned original "mechanical" emissions equipment you don't like, I can't say as I've never dealt with it, only the newer electronic emissions equipment, which usually consists of a wire, with a plug on the end that clips into a module of some type.
But back then..... they did all kinds of weird things with hoses from what I see in the pictures. But it's still a small block Chevy, can't be toooooo difficult.

one. mile. of. vacuum. hose.

Lemme repeat that.

one. mile. of. vacuum. hose.

Vacuum Emissions Controls suck.

 

[Rykon Zero]

Those indian or chinese trucks are coming out in a few months. They seem to be made just for you.

Let me add something on there; I also don't want to die the moment I touch anything going more than 5 mph. Not saying the Indian trucks are going to be bad, but I certainly do not trust those Chinese trucks.