Noob wheel user.

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Bloody hell, just trying my G920 for the first time. It's gonna be a steep learning curve for sure. Just tweaking FFB settings at the mo. It's a bit hard to catch a slide but I'm sure it'll come. Baby steps etc.
Mind you only been playing for an hour and most of that is fiddling.
Rabbit hole !!
 
Welcome!


My current settings
75
100
50
50

;)
How can you have your volume at 100 without clipping? Especially mixed with a reasonable tone level.

Your wheel must feel heavy :)
What wheel are you using?
What format are you on?
What cars are you driving?
What tracks are you using?

Are you loosing ffb details in the corners or through dips (high suspension load) with that, or when your wheel wants to self align under stress when catching a slide?

What does your ffb graph say while doing a lap?

Not arguing, just curious.

I'm on a TX & would never go that high.

You try any of the old Lotus cars around classic spa with them settings and your ffb graph would be solid red :lol:

Admittedly though I don't fully trust that graph as you can set gain to 0 & it can still say that you're clipping even though the wheel feels dead.

I read somewhere that that graph is more about what the game is giving as opposed to what our settings are & what our wheel can take, hence it is still active & clipping even when using a controller :confused:

I don't know what to believe anymore, I just go with feeling.

XB1X
Thrustmaster TX
All types of cars, tracks & weather conditions.
Flavours = a mix of all 3 as some cars just feel dead.
Gain = 100
Volume adjustable between 25-75
Tone adjustable between 0-50
FX 25
 
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Just tweaking FFB settings at the mo.
Since I use the equivalent G29 here's my (current*) settings. Bear in mind FFB is a personal thing.

Raw
Gain 86
Volume 35
Tone 45
FX 0

It's quite a light feel to the wheel that removes most gear drive rattles but still giving details while also making it easier to catch slides. I adjust the volume slightly for different cars (via buttons mapped on a keyboard). Informative also works quite well on the Logitech. Immersive made the wheel "heavy" I thought. Good luck!

* They do get changed slightly every now and then.


I don't know what to believe anymore, I just go with feeling.
The best way. What's works best for you are the right settings. :)
 
Since I use the equivalent G29 here's my (current*) settings. Bear in mind FFB is a personal thing.

Raw
Gain 86
Volume 35
Tone 45
FX 0

It's quite a light feel to the wheel that removes most gear drive rattles but still giving details while also making it easier to catch slides. I adjust the volume slightly for different cars (via buttons mapped on a keyboard). Informative also works quite well on the Logitech. Immersive made the wheel "heavy" I thought. Good luck!

* They do get changed slightly every now and then.


The best way. What's works best for you are the right settings. :)
Yeh, completely agree.

Apologies if it came across as "they are the wrong settings"

Just more of a query regarding ffb spikes "heavy clipping" with his settings.

Like I said, (& agree with you) I go with how it feels more over the graph now as I don't trust it much anymore.
 
It's going to take a while and obviously different games feel different. For example Forza 7 has lots of FFB settings which I don't quite understand but that's for another time.
Back to PCars2. So far on G920 found I prefer the volume fairly low with a lighter wheel. When I get snap oversteer I do find the wheel gets taken out of my hands but I'm sure that's the case for other newbies?
I'm a bit put out that the LSB and RSB buttons won't work but it's not a deal-breaker.

Like I said I'm only a few hours into it and I'm loving it. The brake pedal with its rubber bung in is fairly hard to press but then again it is in a real car. Something to get used to and if all else fails I can swap the map over and use the clutch pedal as a brake.

The learning continues.
 
The brake pedal with its rubber bung in is fairly hard to press
You can remove the bung. However you do have to take apart the peddle set, so might just be avoided for now. Removing it also upsets the calibration of the peddle - but you can get around this. You can also fit different springs with varying compression rates.

When I get snap oversteer I do find the wheel gets taken out of my hands but I'm sure that's the case for other newbies?
Probably yes. You do have to grip the wheel a lot harder than you initially think. Just imagine what a high torque direct drive wheel is like!!
 
You can remove the bung. However you do have to take apart the peddle set, so might just be avoided for now. Removing it also upsets the calibration of the peddle - but you can get around this. You can also fit different springs with varying compression rates.

Probably yes. You do have to grip the wheel a lot harder than you initially think. Just imagine what a high torque direct drive wheel is like!!

I've seen the videos of the gteye spring set but actually I don't mind how it feels at the moment. Sim Racing Garage has a great review where he takes it apart.
As for gripping the wheel, yeah it's a bit mind boggling to imagining a direct drive. Jimmy Broadbent driving at 100% FFB is a real workout!!

I'm playing around with the flavours, big learning process.
 
I think the idea to combine the sliders was a crap idea.

I understand the thought behind it to make it more simple but it could've been
Gain
Volume or weight
Tyre slip
Aligning torque
Suspension bounce
Impact force
FX or road feel/bumps

That would've been fine.

No need to combine the sliders so we get more force on one thing but lose force on another.

Crap idea.
 
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I think the idea to combine the sliders was a crap idea.

I understand the thought behind it to make it more simple but it could've been
Gain
Volume or weight
Tyre slip
Aligning torque
Suspension bounce
Impact force
FX or road feel/bumps

That would've been fine.

No need to combine the sliders so we get more force on one thing but lose force on another.

Crap idea.
I imagine that was a bit of an expected overreaction to people's heads exploding when looking at all the settings available in PC1. They probably combined things a little too much this time around, but you can't ever make everyone happy.
 
Is it better to reduce the rotation to 360 degrees or so for better quick control as opposed to 900 degrees?
I'd say no. You'd probably make it too twitchy. At 900° the drivers hand movement should match your inputs. If you want it more responsive there are settings that can be adjusted in the options.

And you've bought a 900° wheel so you might has well use it. :)
 
Is it better to reduce the rotation to 360 degrees or so for better quick control as opposed to 900 degrees?

If it helps things make sense to you it's worth a shot temporarily - but I'd suggest trying to go back to 900 as soon as you can. When I switched from my first wheel, a Driving Force(180 degrees!!) to a 900 it was a big change. Driving itself was okay fairly quickly, but catching slides and recovering from spinouts was very frustrating for a long time. But the finer control you get with more rotation is far more valuable in the long run and with time you will learn how much to use to deal with frantic situations.

Most of the cars in PC2 don't actually use 900 degrees either, you can see the game wheel stop turning when your own turning stops being effective. In most race cars that's around 450-500 which is about as far as you can turn without taking your hands off the wheel anyway. Road cars tend to use a wider range, but you'll rarely need the extra unless things are already really bad or you're drifting.

One thing I always told myself when getting frustrated was that getting better at driving at speed was much more important to my overall time than getting better at doing things like hanging on to monster slides or doing K-turns in the middle of a race.

Changing to a wheel is a huge adjustment. Some people adapt in a few days, others it takes a few weeks. Just be patient, you'll be matching if not beating your old times soon enough.
 
Yeah I know practice makes perfect and all that. I've got some likely looking settings set aside for PCars 2 and the other titles I'll be using so I'm going to do a little test. I'll do a few hotlaps in each title with the controller to get a benchmark to aim for then I'll work through with the wheel.
Wish me luck haha!

One nice tip I've found is to just reduce the brake saturation to approx 70 to compensate for the pedal stiffness. That will stop the need to open the pedals up to remove the rubber bung! ( Funny thing G920/29 owners wanting rid of the bung, G27 owners wanting to put it in ! ) That's so I can get 100% brake force for less travel.
 
Yeah I know practice makes perfect and all that. I've got some likely looking settings set aside for PCars 2 and the other titles I'll be using so I'm going to do a little test. I'll do a few hotlaps in each title with the controller to get a benchmark to aim for then I'll work through with the wheel.
Wish me luck haha!

One nice tip I've found is to just reduce the brake saturation to approx 70 to compensate for the pedal stiffness. That will stop the need to open the pedals up to remove the rubber bung! ( Funny thing G920/29 owners wanting rid of the bung, G27 owners wanting to put it in ! ) That's so I can get 100% brake force for less travel.

I did the same thing with the brake, so now there's no urgency for me to modify the pedals. lol

I've been messing around with the wheel settings as well, and found this forum on the PC2 webpage. I know it says "G29 for PS4" yet it might be helpful to you. I know the G920/G29 are for their respective consoles, yet I'm not sure if they "feel" or operate differently.

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?52729-G29-Wheel-Settings-PS4

Also, here's a video from the insiders guide that may help you: https://www.projectcarsgame.com/the_insiders_guide/episode-4-setting-feel-force-feedback/
 
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Had my first proper go with the wheel. Loved the immersion of it. Amongst the things I noticed was the fact that you can actually get round the track on cold tyres far easier than on gamepad. On the controller with cold tyres it'll spin any time you like until they're warm but with the wheel it's much easier.
 
I've taken to this wheel quite nicely I think. I actually won an online race at Monza GT3 last night. A few drivers left the lobby during the race but seeing as I was in the lead at the time meant I wasn't gifted the win.
In a custom game I beat my gamepad time with the Ford GT LM GTE by 3 seconds. ( Now that was the same setup but hard slicks Vs soft slicks, would that be the difference? )
In a tryout at Hockenheim Classic GP in a Caterham SP300 I found I could catch and hold oversteer mostly. So circuit racing is much improved
However if I then drop into Rallycross. Oh dear. I'm all over the place. Need to look at that now.

Loving it!
 
In a custom game I beat my gamepad time with the Ford GT LM GTE by 3 seconds. ( Now that was the same setup but hard slicks Vs soft slicks, would that be the difference? )

Yup. Tire compounds will make a significant difference with everything being the same (including weather, track temps, air temps, and tire pressure).

Soft = faster lap times, yet shorter lifespan. Hard = slower lap times, yet longer lifespan.
 
I had the same setup on both runs but I actually was quicker on hard slicks. I remember I didn't go to tuning setup before the race so it was the default. Usually I go to tuning and it loads my custom setup, which is just softs instead of hards. Everything else is the same.
I'll have to experiment with this.
Now the real difference was before it was hotlapping on my own. The quicker time was with 20 AI cars.
 
I actually won an online race at Monza GT3 last night. A few drivers left the lobby during the race but seeing as I was in the lead at the time meant I wasn't gifted the win.
Word of your new found wheel prowess has got around and other drivers are being scared off! :P

Good to hear your enjoying it. 👍

(I found lowering the tone on my G29 helped in rallycross)
 
Now the real difference was before it was hotlapping on my own. The quicker time was with 20 AI cars.
Bear in mind the physics processing can go a little bit "off" when the game is straining to simulate 16+ or 20+ cars, depending on your platform (or even fewer on a weak PC). It's fairly subtle, so being unaware, you could be left scratching your head as to why two otherwise identical sessions feel different.

Which is not to say you should never push it, whenever you feel like it. A midnight thunderstorm at Azure Circuit with a packed grid of cars can be a bit much, though. :)
 
Yeah I've encountered that nicety before with gamepad but it's not quite as bad with the wheel. But different depending which track.
20 car at Monza was ok, a little twitchier on corner entry but 20 cars at Brno was too much. I found 16 was ok there.
 
First week with the wheel. I've already beaten my benchmark controller times.
I'm trying an online league soon and the qualifying times, well I'm not last.
Did a run at the Nordschlefe, my pad was ok but sensitive. The wheel was sublime.
I'm not going to come over all preachy cos some of the top time trial times are with a gamepad but I love the wheel.

Now Dirt 2.0 that's a different story. Haha!
 
Yup. Tire compounds will make a significant difference with everything being the same (including weather, track temps, air temps, and tire pressure).

Soft = faster lap times, yet shorter lifespan. Hard = slower lap times, yet longer lifespan.
That also depends on track temps. On a cold track you often can't get enough heat in hard tyres for them to work. On a hot track softs can be slower than hards because they overheat so quickly and lose grip.
 
Gatekeeper, where's the keymaster
He's off playing arcade racers apparently. Whatever an arcade racer is!

It's years since I've been to an amusement arcade and put a few coins into one of those machines with a wheel and seat. I expect they've advanced somewhat since then. Sorry, reminiscing and wandering off topic. :)
 
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