Optima Batteries

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Joey D

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Well I've finally out did my stock battery with lights and the sound system. Will a Optima battery really be any better? Or should I just go out and buy a bigger altenator?

Here is what is being ran:

Sound:
2 Audiobahn 300W subs
1 Audibahn 400W amp
4 Alpine Type S 250W speakers
1 Pioneer Headunit

Lights:
100W low beam projector bulbs
120W high beam projector bulbs
4 100W police strobes
4 Interior neons
4 LED Tails

Soon to have:
Underbodies
Capasitor
2 LCD screens
PS2


So what do you think?
 
If you're building a full-on show truck out of the blazer, find a good place to hide two Optima batteries.
I was looking at a truck with a lot more stuff than you've got and he was only running 4 Optimas. I figure with two, you've got symmetry, and plenty of reserve power.

You'll need 'em at shows with the strobes going. And you might consider a higher output alternator to keep them bad boys charged up.
 
Oh, I stand by my original statement.

But hey, if you like it, what the hell does it matter what some 18 year-old punk kid from South of Boston cares? And one who doesn't have a car, at that.
 
LED's are actually, more efficient than Incedescant, neon or florescent bulps. The only only lights they trail ore mercury-vapor, which take minutes to 'warm up' and are not for cars, so, I wouldn't see LED's as something that hurts the draw. In fact, it probably cuts down on the draw.
 
First of all do you even need to spend the money? Just turn your car and all the electronic crap you can and let it idle (All alternators have less output at idle duh!) If you notice that your lights are dim then upgrade your alternator. You could also check the voltage if it's at less than 13 (i think it's 13), get a better alternator.

blah, just read this:
Bolstering Your Electrical System with a High-Amp Alternator

Okay, you’ve spent all your hard earned cash on a sophisticated mobile electronics system with big 15” woofers, multiple amps, video screens, a splash of neon—the whole nine yards. Now you’ve got a sound system that leaves your ears ringing, your eyes dazzled, and your head spinning. That’s good.

If you’re not careful, though, it just may leave your vehicle’s electrical system smoking, melting, and frying, too. And that’s not good.

The fact is, a typical OE electrical system doesn’t have the alternator capacity to handle the power demands of high power aftermarket electronics. While your factory electrical system has some extra capacity for small accessories, the extra amp draw created by a high power electronics system can cause a stock electrical system to literally melt from the inside out. Unfortunately, most people don’t realize there’s a problem until it’s too late.

Luckily, the whole mess can be avoided by making a simple alternator upgrade when you build your mobile A/V system. We’ll take you through the whole process—how to determine the need for an alternator upgrade, how to find the right size alternator, and tips for getting the most from your alternator.

Do You Need a High Amp Alternator?
If you’ve spent thousands of dollars on audio/video components for your vehicle, chances are you need to upgrade your alternator. The reasons are quite simple when you understand the definition of amperage.

Amperage is the maximum capacity or maximum volume of electricity that your alternator is capable of producing. If your vehicle’s electrical load exceeds the amperage— or maximum capacity—of your alternator, you’re asking for trouble.

Most factory alternators are rated at 65 to 100 amps. Those amps must handle the electrical load of your entire vehicle—things like headlights, gauges, fuel pumps, transmission, air conditioning, and much more. Once the alternator applies its power to all these items, there is not a lot of amperage left over. And although many alternators supply 10% to 15% more power to handle additional, non-factory accessories, they simply can’t power a complex mobile A/V system.

For example, let’s say you’re running a 65 amp alternator on a vehicle that draws 60 amps, and you’re thinking of adding a 500 watt stereo system. A typical 500 watt stereo system draws at least 60 amps. To attempt to power all your factory electrical components and your new stereo system—a 120 amp draw—your alternator will have to run at 100% capacity (and draw reserve from your battery, too) with no cool down time. As a result, the alternator will have a drastically reduced life span and may even melt or burn up internally.

If you’re looking for hard evidence that you need to upgrade your alternator before you go out and spend the money, just take a look at your voltmeter. When you are drawing reserve power from your battery, the voltmeter will read below 12.7 VDC. If your voltmeter spends a lot of time below the 12.7 VDC figure, you are surpassing the maximum capacity of your alternator and will need to upgrade it.

Choosing the Right Alternator for Your Vehicle
Selecting the right alternator to meet your vehicle’s electrical needs comes down to figuring out your vehicle’s total amperage requirements. To determine the amperage requirements of your vehicle, you need to calculate the total electrical load of your vehicle.

The most accurate way to figure electrical load is to use an ammeter. With your engine off and the battery in a good state of charge, connect an ammeter in series with the grounded terminal of the battery and the ground cable. Then, switch each individual electrical component on and off one at a time and add up the ammeter readings of each. Your alternator output should be 50% more than the sum of all the individual readings.

If you don’t have an ammeter, you can estimate electrical load by checking the fuses on the accessory devices. The figure on each fuse will be slightly larger than the highest amp draw of each component but should give you a general idea of the electrical load of your car or truck.

There are a couple of things to keep in mind as you are measuring for electrical load. First, you can never have too much amperage. Again, amperage is defined as the total electrical capacity of your alternator, and it is impossible to have too much electrical capacity.
Secondly, you can actually gain back horsepower by adding a higher amp alternator. True, most alternators are only about 85% efficient (some power is lost in the form of heat and wind resistance from the cooling fins). But upgrading to a higher amp alternator can help you gain back significant horsepower by allowing your electrical system to run at maximum voltage. In most cases, you’ll actually see a slight gain in horsepower!

Getting the Most From Your High Amp Alternator
Installation of your new high amp alternator will vary depending on the brand and style. For example, some alternators like the Powermaster will work with your stock brackets, wiring, and belts and, in many cases, will accept stock pulleys. Other alternators will require some modifications. You should always follow the installation instructions that come with the alternator. However, there are a couple of ways you can assure optimum performance no matter what brand of alternator you choose.

First, make sure you are using the proper size charge wire. The charge wire is the wire that the amperage from the alternator flows down to the battery and the rest of the system. While the existing wire may be compatible with your stock alternator, it is likely to be too small for the extra capacity of a high amp alternator and may restrict the flow of electricity.

Next, closely inspect your stock belts before installing a high amp alternator. In most cases, high amp alternators come with a smaller pulley than stock to overdrive the system by 16%. The slightly heavier load of an overdriven alternator will cause added stress to your belt, so it’s extremely important that your belt and belt tensioner (if equipped) be in excellent shape.

Finally, if you are strapped for space, many alternators can be run in reverse (with the pulley side toward the driver). While the alternator will still charge properly, cooling efficiency will be reduced and life span of the alternator may be shortened.

Remember, high power mobile electronics systems should overload your senses, not your alternator. The next time you plan to add some wattage to your stereo system, consider adding some amperage first by upgrading your alternator.
 
skylineGTR_guy
First of all do you even need to spend the money? Just turn your car and all the electronic crap you can and let it idle (All alternators have less output at idle duh!) If you notice that your lights are dim then upgrade your alternator. You could also check the voltage if it's at less than 13 (i think it's 13), get a better alternator.

blah, just read this:
12.6 V when the car's off and 14.? V when it's running. 13 V works though
 
When I'm driving with my stuff on and the subs hit my lights dim really bad.
 
BlazinXtreme
When I'm driving with my stuff on and the subs hit my lights dim really bad.
Yup then you might as well upgrade your alternator, If you keep adding you'll need it eventually so you might as well do it now. Do you usually have your car running when all that stuff is on? If Its usually of then go with the batteries becasue the alternator wont do you any good if the car is off everytime you use your lights etc.
 
You need an alternator. Try a PowerMaster. I think mine puts out like 90 or so amps at idle, something ridiculous like that. I had my truck running after i put it in and turned the lights on (in middle of the day an mud spattered over lights) and they were looking pretty dang bright. Oh and you need at least one Optima. If you get one from PepBoys, it has like a 2year replacement warranty. My redtop went dead while i was in Iraq and when i came back and went to buy a new one and return my old core, somehow i actually walke out of the store about 20bucks richer. but i wasn't about to complain.
 
Alright well I go with both the battery and the altenator.

I have the subs and some of the lights going while I drive. But neons are illegal here in Michigan. I mostly have that stuff going when I'm parked and while at shows.
 
BlazinXtreme
Alright well I go with both the battery and the altenator.

I have the subs and some of the lights going while I drive. But neons are illegal here in Michigan. I mostly have that stuff going when I'm parked and while at shows.
...nevermind...
 
Why must everyone think that neons are crap? I have a show truck! Lighting impresses people at shows.
 
People are obviously easily impressed. They look exceptionally cheesy.

But if you like them, and other people like to stare blankly at them at a shows, then keep 'em.
 
Hey if it wins awards I'll keep it. And I've won several awards....but your right most people are morons. But hey whatever.
 
BlazinXtreme
Hey if it wins awards I'll keep it. And I've won several awards....but your right most people are morons. But hey whatever.


uhhh suuureeee..... :sly:

i better back off...i didnt know you had a show truck... what awards have you won out of curiousity?

at least u rnt using it for its "performance benefits" .... we all know how streetglow makes cars faster, and helps them corner better... right?
 
For awards I've won 6 Mini Utility awards, 2 best in show, and 1 for best custom.
 
Here are some newer ones

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Actually over all, I've spent about 3 grand on mods, which isn't bad when you think about it since its spread out over a year and a half.

I really need to get my truck in to the shop to get it dropped.
 
Yeah what's up with all that fender clearence???? ;) Nice looking truck though. I always like the 2door S-10 blazers for some reason. The ZR2's look real good too. You hardly ever see the 2 doors. Hey, if you use the lights to win awards, then more power too ya. As long as you don't drive around with them on. Just don't get tooo ricey ;)
 
Never thought I'd say anything of the sort, but I think underglow is all right on a truck like that. It's the kind of vehicle that suits crazy lighting. They're still blasphemy on any car purported to be performance oriented, though. The only exception to to that rule is in the D1 Grand Prix, where a few drivers are running them, but that's because D1 is so show oriented and flashy tricks like that can wil a matchup when there is no clear winner in terms of driving.

On any sort of street car, though, hell no.
 
Hey are you saying that 195hp running a 15.7 at the strip isn't performance oriented...:lol:
 

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