Oversteer and Understeer

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So I am still a bit confused by how these terms are applied. I have read a bit about it and understand what each is fundamentally, that is when the angle of the front/back wheels is greater than the other around a curve ( in a non-slip situation) and when slipping occurs it is easier. My problem comes from really feeling it when driving. Is Oversteer when coming from a turn the tail end likes to whip around? or is it when the car seems to not want to really turn into the curve? Help is very appreciated!
 
Oversteer is when your back end slids out. Understeer is when your front wheel lose grip and slid more in a straight line rather than turn. Hope that helps
 
Understeer is when the car doesn't want to turn into the corner.

Oversteer is when the back of the car comes round on you.

Generally speaking understeer tends to occur on Front Wheel Drive and 4 wheel drive cars (depending on how they are set up) and oversteer is more common on rear wheel drive stuff.
 
If the back end slides out under power its still understeer. Forcing the car to turn inwards by breaking the traction does not increase grip on the front tires. The car tends to violently turn in without power, that is oversteer. With the car naturally having more grip in the front than the back.
 
If the back end slides out under power its still understeer. Forcing the car to turn inwards by breaking the traction does not increase grip on the front tires. The car tends to violently turn in without power, that is oversteer. With the car naturally having more grip in the front than the back.

Jesus christ, what a terrible and wrong explanation :dopey: Do you have any idea what you are talking about? LOL Provoking the rear to slide DOES stop the ront sliding because the application of opposite lock is, by it's definition, turning the front wheels to point in the desired direction of travel, therefore they cannot be sliding. Understeer then only re-occurs when grip is given back to the rear wheels and the front begins to slide again.

Understeer is when the front end slides, meaning the car does not turn as much as you are telling it to, hence the term 'under steering'.

Oversteer is when the back end slides causing the car to turn more than you are telling it too, hence the term 'over steering'.

It really is that simple.
 
If the back end slides out under power its still understeer. Forcing the car to turn inwards by breaking the traction does not increase grip on the front tires. The car tends to violently turn in without power, that is oversteer. With the car naturally having more grip in the front than the back.

lol!

If the back end slides out under power it is oversteer. (That is a good description of oversteer actually)

By causing a bit of wheel sping to swing the back round to help turn in to a corner is still oversteer, hence how you can tune the suspension for oversteer to make the car turn into a corner easier.

The car tends to violently turn in without power? What? That is just the car turning into the corner, perhaps if you think that, you may need to review your knowledge on how to tune a car or stop racing with racing softs on the fornt and comfort tyres on the back :sly:

The car naturally having more grip at the front than the back? Yes, kind of ... That is true for a front wheel drive car but when it comes to rear wheel rear engined cars the grip then is naturally at the back of the car as that is where the weight is.

Please do not comment further unless you can produce documented research and testing that proves the incorrect facts you are putting on the table :)
 
lol!

If the back end slides out under power it is oversteer. (That is a good description of oversteer actually)

By causing a bit of wheel sping to swing the back round to help turn in to a corner is still oversteer, hence how you can tune the suspension for oversteer to make the car turn into a corner easier.

The car tends to violently turn in without power? What? That is just the car turning into the corner, perhaps if you think that, you may need to review your knowledge on how to tune a car or stop racing with racing softs on the fornt and comfort tyres on the back :sly:

The car naturally having more grip at the front than the back? Yes, kind of ... That is true for a front wheel drive car but when it comes to rear wheel rear engined cars the grip then is naturally at the back of the car as that is where the weight is.

One of the most dangerous types of oversteer, and the one that causes the most crashes on our roads when it comes to "spirited driving" is "lift-off oversteer".

Say the car is in a steady state "on the limit" mid corner, but a sudden lift causes the front to load, and the rear to unload, hence an oversteer rotation. This can happen in any car of any configuration, although some are far more prone to it than others.

Remember that when it comes to grip, the weight isn't always in the same place when a car is being driven fast.
 
I have a problem connected to the OP of this thread.

I am not that good at tuning, so I decided to spend some time on this aspect.

I drove a Nissan GT500 Yellowhat at Fuji GT. I have a G27.
I used this car quite a lot and the track is, IMO, a good mix of turns with a big straight.
I drove about ten laps with the LDP tuning I found here (thanks guys!) and I recorded some lap times.
Then I went to the settings and I put them again to default values.
I then made other laps and I don't know why I was very close to the previous ones (1-2 tenths with the impression that I could improve...)
Note: I used the downforce, suspensions and brake settings of the LDP tuning (not every setting)

I am probably missing something here... the settings are quite different (stock/LDP):

Downforce 40 50 / 40 65

Ride Height 0 0 / -2 1
Spring Rate 15.8 14.3 / 16 13
Extension 8 8 / 8 6
Compression 8 8 / 4 6
Anti-roll bars 6 6 / 4 6

Camber 1 0.5 / 1.8 1.2
Toe 0 0.5 / -0.1 0.1

Brake Balance 5 6 5 9


My problem is that I can't really feel a difference while driving with different settings, I can't feel oversteer or understeer (maybe the reason is that this car is so well stock balanced ...)
Any hints?
 
I have a problem connected to the OP of this thread.

I am not that good at tuning, so I decided to spend some time on this aspect.

I drove a Nissan GT500 Yellowhat at Fuji GT. I have a G27.
I used this car quite a lot and the track is, IMO, a good mix of turns with a big straight.
I drove about ten laps with the LDP tuning I found here (thanks guys!) and I recorded some lap times.
Then I went to the settings and I put them again to default values.
I then made other laps and I don't know why I was very close to the previous ones (1-2 tenths with the impression that I could improve...)
Note: I used the downforce, suspensions and brake settings of the LDP tuning (not every setting)

I am probably missing something here... the settings are quite different (stock/LDP):

Downforce 40 50 / 40 65

Ride Height 0 0 / -2 1
Spring Rate 15.8 14.3 / 16 13
Extension 8 8 / 8 6
Compression 8 8 / 4 6
Anti-roll bars 6 6 / 4 6

Camber 1 0.5 / 1.8 1.2
Toe 0 0.5 / -0.1 0.1

Brake Balance 5 6 5 9


My problem is that I can't really feel a difference while driving with different settings, I can't feel oversteer or understeer (maybe the reason is that this car is so well stock balanced ...)
Any hints?
Basicly, alot of the GT500 is really balanced. If u go to Body, set ballset and you will see it's 50/50 in weight disturbution (?) or close to it. So basicly it dosent over or understeers.
The GT500 is a good car stock. Tuning it dosen't give much beter lap times. It does improve, but again, not by a lot.
ALTHOUGH!
If you go to a tight circiut, suzuka (Not really) Tsukuba, Eiger, etc you can feel you car oversteering more with stock setings, then with a tune.
You don't feel oversteer almost anytime in high speed tracks.
Also, try testing with all assists off, beside ABS if you like that, and you will feel the oversteer MUCH more
 
Places with tight turns and low speeds, you'd encourage a little oversteer though... or at least I want to. It'd help the entry, and rotation through the corner. So the GT500's are at a really good balance. The only places on Suzuka I'm concerned with those vehicles are the first sweeping corner and the entry to the hairpin with the right curve while braking before it (easy to lose it).

OP: Either over/understeer is caused by lost traction. The easiest ways to understand these (to me) are: Understeer- can't turn, Oversteer- turns too much. These usually happen with the hard application of brakes or acceleration.

Here's a couple links to help anyone understand if they want to look at it:
http://www.drivingfast.net/car-control/oversteer.htm
http://www.drivingfast.net/car-control/understeer.htm
 
Oversteering: Holding the wheel with both hands at 10:10am clock position
Understeering: Holding the wheel with both hands at 7:25pm clock position

just kidding, that is total nonsense; for I use my left knee and palm to drive
 
And don't forget that overturning the wheel while understeering can result in some nasty snap-oversteer when load transfers and grip returns. Thats why i find understeer irl situations actually more dangerous than oversteer.
 
Hi, Understeer (the car is not turning enough into a corner - you really have to crank the wheel, also termed "loose") seems to be the the biggest problem most "racers" have with a lot of their cars in the game. For most cars adding ABS can help, try 7. This will help prevent the front wheels from skidding and thus loosing traction, while braking into a corner. Front camber 2, rear camber 1 will give more grip in a corner. Rear toe angle +0.2, front toe angle -0.1 will help the car to be more reactive when turning into a corner. Wing adjustments will help too: more downforce=more grip through the corner. Take it easy on the gas coming out of a corner after the apex or add some Traction Control (try 7) to help prevent the drive wheels from spinning under acceleration, this will help in maintaining traction.
 
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I have a problem connected to the OP of this thread.

I am not that good at tuning, so I decided to spend some time on this aspect.

I drove a Nissan GT500 Yellowhat at Fuji GT. I have a G27.
I used this car quite a lot and the track is, IMO, a good mix of turns with a big straight.
I drove about ten laps with the LDP tuning I found here (thanks guys!) and I recorded some lap times.
Then I went to the settings and I put them again to default values.
I then made other laps and I don't know why I was very close to the previous ones (1-2 tenths with the impression that I could improve...)
Note: I used the downforce, suspensions and brake settings of the LDP tuning (not every setting)

I am probably missing something here... the settings are quite different (stock/LDP):

Downforce 40 50 / 40 65

Ride Height 0 0 / -2 1
Spring Rate 15.8 14.3 / 16 13
Extension 8 8 / 8 6
Compression 8 8 / 4 6
Anti-roll bars 6 6 / 4 6

Camber 1 0.5 / 1.8 1.2
Toe 0 0.5 / -0.1 0.1

Brake Balance 5 6 5 9


My problem is that I can't really feel a difference while driving with different settings, I can't feel oversteer or understeer (maybe the reason is that this car is so well stock balanced ...)
Any hints?

Hi, The first thing I would adjust is the TOE ANGLE if you put the front first in your list. I'd set: Front toe -0.1, Rear toe +0.2. Also Front camber 2, Rear camber 1. Brakes 5/5. ABS 7, TC 7, Springs about 50%. Anti-roll 7, Shocks extension and compression @ 6. Rear wing at 90%. Front wing (if available, about 50%). Racing med/soft tires. I'm using a Driving Force GT wheel, This is my generic setting for most of my cars. Try that, Cheers.
 
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