Photomode

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tcorolla
hey guys, i've seen a lot of pics taken by players and posted, where they can show the wheels like in motion, and when I take pics they all look static.
tips or help?
thanks
 
hey guys, i've seen a lot of pics taken by players and posted, where they can show the wheels like in motion, and when I take pics they all look static.
tips or help?
thanks

Play around with the shutter speed. Basicually, a photo taken at 1/100 will show a lot more motion than one at 1/1000 for example. The lower the number after the "1", the more motion you'll get in your photos.
 
I would try asking in the Photomode forums.:) The above advice is sound but having had a look there, some people seem to REALLY know what they're doing and live for getting the perfect photo. I'm sure they can help.

General rule is low shutter speed equals high motion blur. F Number will blur everything else except the point of focus. Higher the F# equals higher background blur.

Use a replay rather than Photo Travel since your car is obviously stationary in the latter. Assuming you're on a high-speed straight and doing at least 60mph, focus on the body of the car ( the front grille, tail lights or B Pillar) using the Square button and set the shutter speed to about 1000 and the F# to 0. Take the photo and it should have some motion blur on both the wheels and the road. If there's to much blur, go back, press Triangle and scroll down to Shutter Speed where you can more finely adjust it. Go up in increments of about 125 until you get the effect you're looking for.👍
 
A basic setup for motion capture is:

f 32mm (this is your lens and you can change it depending on your distance to the car/scene/object)

Shutter Speed: 1/60 - 1/125 (for motion) 1/8000 for 0 movement

F= 1.0 for "macro" shots and details and >2.8 for everything else (I usually use 2.8/4.0 for racing shots). This is what gives Depth of Field to your shots.

E.V. (exposure) 0.0 should work for the most cases but you can ajust it down if you see any burnt areas (pure white) like the sky or some reflections.

Using panning mode 3 will help to get a more defined shot.
Panning mode 1 and 2 give a more realisitc look to a shot but are harder to work with.

Focus on the part of the car/object that is closest to you.

X2 resolution will make your shot look a lot better.

These are the basics. The rest comes from practice. :)
 
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A basic setup for motion capture is:

f 32mm (this is your lens and you can change it depending on your distance to the car/scene/object)
Shutter Speed: 1/60 - 1/125
F= 1.0 for "macro" shots and details and >2.8 for everything else (I usually use 2.8/4.0 for racing shots)
E.V. (exposure) 0.0 should work for the most cases but you can ajust it down if you see any burn areas (pure white) like the sky or some reclections.

Using panning mode 3 will help to get a more defined shot.
Panning mode 1 and 2 give a more realisitc look to a shot but are harder to work with.

X2 resolution will make your shot look a lot better.

These are the basics. The rest comes from practice. :)
This. This is better than my advice. 👍👍👍
 
I go straight to options and change to 16:9, panning mode 3 and 1/60th speed.

Why do i constantly have to do this PD?

Why the hell would anyone want 3:2 size for example, it must be the least used size?
 
I go straight to options and change to 16:9, panning mode 3 and 1/60th speed.

Why do i constantly have to do this PD?

Why the hell would anyone want 3:2 size for example, it must be the least used size?

takin pics with my DSLR is one of my hobbys
and in real life photography 4:3 and 3:2 are the most used aspect ratios
but on the game i always use 16:6 aswell and pan mode 3 too
 
I go straight to options and change to 16:9, panning mode 3 and 1/60th speed.

Why do i constantly have to do this PD?

Why the hell would anyone want 3:2 size for example, it must be the least used size?
My RL camera shoots 3:2, so for me this also the preferred ratio for Photomode. Also mode 1 is equivalent to a photographer standing trackside and panning, so the result often looks more convincing. Even real life rigshots (i.e. mode 3) tend to look a bit artificial, so I find it a bit hard to pull off a realistic looking picture with this one, although (or because ;) ) it will of course give the crispest results. In short, I like the presets.
 
A basic setup for motion capture is:

f 32mm (this is your lens and you can change it depending on your distance to the car/scene/object)

Shutter Speed: 1/60 - 1/125 (for motion) 1/8000 for 0 movement

F= 1.0 for "macro" shots and details and >2.8 for everything else (I usually use 2.8/4.0 for racing shots). This is what gives Depth of Field to your shots.

E.V. (exposure) 0.0 should work for the most cases but you can ajust it down if you see any burnt areas (pure white) like the sky or some reflections.

Using panning mode 3 will help to get a more defined shot.
Panning mode 1 and 2 give a more realisitc look to a shot but are harder to work with.

Focus on the part of the car/object that is closest to you.

X2 resolution will make your shot look a lot better.

These are the basics. The rest comes from practice. :)

Obrigado zé da tuga!

Thank you all for them tips… i'll try this one, just because it seemed professional LOL thanks anyways dudes.
 
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here…. Is it good enough?
 

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hhehehehehehee still testing, still testing….. which color would you use then? this is supposed to be a drift machine… :)
 
hhehehehehehee still testing, still testing….. which color would you use then? this is supposed to be a drift machine… :)
Personally i don't think you can ever go wrong with either black or white wheels. Gold on some occasions. It's preference really. And my preference isn't green haha :lol:. With that paint i'd go for gold, orange or bright yellow wheels. But as i say, each to their own :).
 
i don't have a nice green color… so for now lool i have 4 kinds of gold though.
 
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