Prime DS3 Usage

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ElementRacer

ElementRacer

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SDM_CarbonR
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Time Attack Pro
Ok guys, so I've had GT5 since mid '11 (due to price), and since mid '12, I've been using a custom configuration on my DS3 that involves R2/L2 as ACC/BRK and L3 to steer.

Now, I've recently been getting increasingly frustrated with the dead zones of the Triggers, as I've been venturing into the no TC/ABS/SRF/ASM zone.

My question is, will it be more beneficial to me to change my setup to use R3 to accelerate, and use L1 / R1 for Manual Gearing?

I hate being too slow around corners, or under/oversteering due to the slack zones in the triggers.
 
DS3's do wear out. Have you tried a new 1 ? I noticed a big difference between my trusty well broken in 1 & a brand new 1. The new 1 being much tighter. 👍
 
Hmm, maybe, my vibrators are clacking around making a hell of a racket so mayne i should invest in a new controller
 
The advice from PapaGnr is good but to be honest the symptom you complain about is the primary reason why folks swap over to a wheel. ALL controllers have dead-zones and there is nothing you can do about it.

I don't recommend using the right stick for accelerator and brake. The biggest issue is that you can't apply both at the same time as you would want to with trail braking. The other thing I found from over ten years experience with the DS3 is that you get even less progression with the stick than with the triggers. I used L2/R2 but did have the stick mapped as well, for some reason the stick worked better for me in rally events :confused:
 
Well can anyone suggest a wheel that costs under $250 new and doesn't feel like a tractor?
 
Hmm, ok, might put some $$$ away for a couple months.

Looks likr I'm joining the Wheel-Wagon
 
Argon
ALL controllers have dead-zones and there is nothing you can do about it.
Click to expand...
Many games has options to adjust dead-zones.

Argon
I don't recommend using the right stick for accelerator and brake. The biggest issue is that you can't apply both at the same time as you would want to with trail braking.
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Map R3 up for Accel and R2 for braking + L1/R1 Shift down and up you are good to go :)
 
Yeah but there's my problem, L2/R2 have dead zones. That won't work


Edit: Ah actually maybe it will. Its Acceleration I'm worried about so ill give it a try and get back to you
 
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karelpipa
Many games has options to adjust dead-zones.
Click to expand...

GT5 has NO option to adjust the dead zone

karelpipa
Map R3 up for Accel and R2 for braking + L1/R1 Shift down and up you are good to go :)
Click to expand...

Just so we're clear, R3 is the press down on the right stick. If you mean map the right analogue stick that is NOT R3 and if you really mean R3 then good luck with that set-up!
 
Pedals and even wheels in cars quite often have dead-zones too. Just saying ;)

Even if a game has an option to adjust a deadzones, you can't change the physical properties of the controller. It could be that yours is wearing out as someone said. I've always found more actual deadzone with the stick than the triggers myself, even on brand new controllers. The only real troubles I have with the DS3 are the awkwardness of trying to steer with the stick and the non-linear mapping of the accelerator(which is a GT5 thing, not a DS3 thing... and I personally found it just as bad with the stick as with R2).

Good luck finding a good deal on a decent wheel. You surely won't regret it(as long as you don't go for a no-name bargain wheel - don't do that).
 
ElementRacer
Actually maybe it will. Its Acceleration I'm worried about so ill give it a try and get back to you
Click to expand...

L2/R2 are spot on. But the right stick (accel) is a pain in the ass. I can't get why the hell they didn't allow us to change its dead zones. But its the best solution for GT5 on DS3.

Argon
GT5 has NO option to adjust the dead zone
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I know. Wasnt it clear for the first time?

Argon
Just so we're clear, R3 is the press down on the right stick. If you mean map the right analogue stick that is NOT R3 and if you really mean R3 then good luck with that set-up!
Click to expand...

I said "R3 up" I though everybody would get it :grumpy:
 
karelpipa
I know. Wasnt it clear for the first time?
Click to expand...

I thought is was very clear but you seemed to introduce the notion that "Many games has options to adjust dead-zones" but did not qualify that did not include GT5 so I made the point to clarify.


karelpipa
I said "R3 up" I though everybody would get it :grumpy:
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Why would we get that? There is no such thing as R3 up! The only R3 on the controller is by pressing down on the right analogue stick....how in any language can that be R3 up? :confused:
 
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Argon
Why would we get that? There is no such thing as R3 up! The only R3 on the controller is by pressing down on the right analogue stick....how in any language can that be R3 up? :confused:
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Pedantics, I knew what he meant..
 
seanneedscar
Pedantics, I knew what he meant..
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Wow, you have nothing to do with the thread but feel that you should make a judgement on whether I did or did not understand....unbelievable!
 
Argon
Wow, you have nothing to do with the thread but feel that you should make a judgement on whether I did or did not understand....unbelievable!
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HEY, this is my thread that i asked about good mappings for buttons in. This is not a debate on the R3 toggle or right stick.

I knew what he meant and that's all that matters.

If you've nothing nice to say, zip it.
 
You ask about also using L1/R1 for the gears, are you using them with your current setup, or only in conjunction with the right stick?

I use the L1/R1 and L2/R2 combination and it is far tighter than the right stick, though a bit awkward at first to find a grip that feels comfortable. I will say that I haven't ventured too much into the 0 ABS adventure yet as the DS3 isn't really that well suited to it.

Perhaps therefore a wheel is probably the best way to go.
 
I do find braking with ABS 0 to be arduous, but do-able
 
Never heard of one. How do they increase playability?
 
I don't use this myself, but it just occurred to me: what if you have L2/R2 as accelerator and brake, and right stick up/down as shift up/down?

Oh apologies, that was your problem in the first place. Ignore me then. :p
 
peobryant
Out of curiosity, have you used any trigger extenders? Something like this...

http://www.amazon.com/Pelican-Triggers-Silicone-PlayStation-3-6304300/dp/B005D7G3LA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1366490395&sr=8-1&keywords=PS3+Triggers

They are a big help, in my opinion.
Click to expand...

ElementRacer
Never heard of one. How do they increase playability?
Click to expand...

They prevent that your finger does not slide of the button, I've got 2 pairs, and I can't play without them, especially Shooters and Racing games.
 
I've been using those clip on trigger extentions for over 2 years. They make a significant difference to the feel of the controller, it's much nicer and grippier to press the L2 and R2 buttons, it's helps with the sensitivity a little and it's a lot more comfortable for the rest of your hand.

They're only a couple of £/$, there's no reason not to buy them, they'll improve your comfort and gameplay loads. If you play on someone else's console who does not have the trigger extensions, you'll notice how horrible the standard design feels in comparison.
 
Give it some time I'd say, you'll get used to it if you keep using the layout you have, simply takes time like all things do. I'm using the same layout for braking/accelerating, and I use L1 to shift up and R1 to shift down.

I (almost) never lock the wheels up by accident now (unless in a panic reaction). Getting the acceleration completely right is sometimes harder depending on the car, but I mostly drive road cars below 550PP which reduces that problem. I do tend to "pump" the triggers from time to time, especially when braking (and shifting down).
I may not be the fastest driver, but for me "not crashing" is priority. :)

I'd also like to suggest using comfort (hard) tires, they give a lot more feedback when you do something right or wrong. And I also notice they tend to be a lot more forgiving when making slight mistakes, unlike racing tires that can "snap" the entire car into another direction when losing grip or counter-steering a bit too much for example.


And those trigger extenders could also be interesting of course.
 
ElementRacer
Ok guys, so I've had GT5 since mid '11 (due to price), and since mid '12, I've been using a custom configuration on my DS3 that involves R2/L2 as ACC/BRK and L3 to steer.

Now, I've recently been getting increasingly frustrated with the dead zones of the Triggers, as I've been venturing into the no TC/ABS/SRF/ASM zone.

My question is, will it be more beneficial to me to change my setup to use R3 to accelerate, and use L1 / R1 for Manual Gearing?

I hate being too slow around corners, or under/oversteering due to the slack zones in the triggers.
Click to expand...

The ultimate solution : Use DS2 ( original stick that came with PS2 ) stick with USB adapter ( available from local PC shop - find one with a switch for PC/PS3 ) :D - Like me, watch my videos to see how much control and precise it has over any DS3. I use the face buttons for brake ( triangle ), gas ( circle ), shift up (R1), shift down (L1), left foot brake (L2). High BB and no ABS is easy - 10/8 BB no problemo :D. The real advantage is this : face buttons needs 3 time more pressure to get 100% input compared to DS3.

The analog stick also has better quality than DS3 IMO.

Never need for that shoulder buttons for gas/brake, I never like them - feels awkward when shifting down - blipping throttle while trail braking --- nightmare :lol:

With face buttons for gas/brake - trail brake deep into corner, blipping throttle on down shift, with a touch of left foot brake at times - sweet experience.
 
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Ridox2JZGTE
The ultimate solution : Use DS2 ( original stick that came with PS2 ) stick with USB adapter ( available from local PC shop - find one with a switch for PC/PS3 ) :D - Like me, watch my videos to see how much control and precise it has over any DS3. I use the face buttons for brake ( triangle ), gas ( circle ), shift up (R1), shift down (R2), left foot brake (L2). High BB and no ABS is easy - 10/8 BB no problemo :D. The real advantage is this : face buttons needs 3 time more pressure to get 100% input compared to DS3.

The analog stick also has better quality than DS3 IMO.

Never need for that shoulder buttons for gas/brake, I never like them - feels awkward when shifting down - blipping throttle while trail braking --- nightmare :lol:

With face buttons for gas/brake - trail brake deep into corner, blipping throttle on down shift, with a touch of left foot brake at times - sweet experience.
Click to expand...

👍 if you didn't understand a word of that like me
 
Hacks...
 
seanneedscar
I dont understand either

How do you left foot brake with a controller? have you split the thing in half and put it on the floor?
Click to expand...

ElementRacer
Hacks...
Click to expand...

Imagine applying gas with circle then press L2 to brake while on the gas :D ( similar goal different method ), I often did this to adjust speed with more precision.

Edited my previous post : shift down is L1 :)

I use my right thumb to gas, brake and blip the throttle while braking. My left hand middle finger is for L2 ( secondary brake - left foot brake )
 
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