Problems whid the new Nissan GT-R N24. Academy 12

  • Thread starter Thread starter Unavoidable
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MrMelancholy15
Yes, Ridox, I agree. I plan on tuning on comfort tires, to start, so that driving on racing tires is easy.


However, in your signature alone, I see proof of talent. Not everyone can drive on comfort tires. I prefer 500 PP, but, I can drive any car at those specs, with any compound, but 600 pp on comfort tires would be a challenge...
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I love challenges, by the way the 600pp CM tire thing is only for doing solo run, not race :sly: I like cruising with comfort tires, no aids and just enjoying the ride to hell :lol:

CM tires does drivable with high pp cars, I had 8:37.xxx with stock Cizeta V16T at 540pp+ using CM tires at the Nordschleife, tire wear on, grip real and no ABS as well. It was not a hotlap, just the usual cruising, or else I might be dead from crashing all over the place :lol:
 
MrMelancholy15
Indy Road Course = not always possible. Certainly, it's great advice, but, mistakes-and curving braking zones-happen. I just want to point it out.
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Well it's the old adage of slow in fast out.
Not sure if the cars oversteered on acceleration out of corners? But that would be easier to control than over steering into a corner.

Just my thoughts.
 
Just had to buy and try. Just did a few laps around Trial Mountain, my regular testing haunt with no TC and or ABS, stock other than BB f4-r2 (using DS3).

It took a couple of laps to get used to the understeer on entry - fairly typical of the GTR I'd say. Found the grip level phenomenal as long as I wasn't too fast into the corner.

Yes it's a bit twitchy, and I did get the snap away back end a couple of times under braking. I usually put this down to the diff locking under braking - a bit like applying the handbrake, but I'm on ABS 0.

A key with this car is definitely to be careful on correcting oversteer as it snaps back very quickly.

I actually thought it was very good and got a 1:32.5 after 10 laps at TM which is pretty quick in my world.
 
Back to my Problem.​

I did all possible configurations, but still shocked by the way this car handles. One of you have mentioned to break in straight line, but unfortunately it's not always possible. See the problem whid this is that I'm using steering wheel (G27) and breaking in straight line is not always an option, specially when the race gets intense. What kills me the most, is how little break pressure it takes for the car to swing its back end. And when it comes to speed, well let's just not go there... It starts under 120Km and bad timing on countersteering and I can find myself facing 90°.

P.S. Thanks to those of you, who helping me understand this car. And to everybody else who thinks that it has something to do with my driving skills, I'm looking forward to settle this on the track like a man...
Feel free to add me in PlayStation Network > (MR-LEV) and we'll go from there.
Once again, Thank you for your feedback.
 
Unavoidable
Back to my Problem.​

I did all possible configurations, but still shocked by the way this car handles. One of you have mentioned to break in straight line, but unfortunately it's not always possible. See the problem whid this is that I'm using steering wheel (G27) and breaking in straight line is not always an option, specially when the race gets intense. What kills me the most, is how little break pressure it takes for the car to swing its back end. And when it comes to speed, well let's just not go there... It starts under 120Km and bad timing on countersteering and I can find myself facing 90°.

P.S. Thanks to those of you, who helping me understand this car. And to everybody else who thinks that it has something to do with my driving skills, I'm looking forward to settle this on the track like a man...
Feel free to add me in PlayStation Network > (MR-LEV) and we'll go from there.
Once again, Thank you for your feedback.
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Have you tried to lower rear brake ? What is you brake balance (bb) ? Try to use more front bias, 6/0 for a start and modulate the brake once you feel the rear stepping out, don't just mash the brake ( most ABS driver do this all the time ). I might add you, do some track day, I hope there won't be issue going online as I've heard so many issues online with the new 2.08.
 
Unavoidable
Back to my Problem.​

I did all possible configurations, but still shocked by the way this car handles. One of you have mentioned to break in straight line, but unfortunately it's not always possible. See the problem whid this is that I'm using steering wheel (G27) and breaking in straight line is not always an option, specially when the race gets intense. What kills me the most, is how little break pressure it takes for the car to swing its back end. And when it comes to speed, well let's just not go there... It starts under 120Km and bad timing on countersteering and I can find myself facing 90°.

P.S. Thanks to those of you, who helping me understand this car. And to everybody else who thinks that it has something to do with my driving skills, I'm looking forward to settle this on the track like a man...
Feel free to add me in PlayStation Network > (MR-LEV) and we'll go from there.
Once again, Thank you for your feedback.
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I can't help with tuning so sorry there. But for stock. On the ring. It seems to help to be 1 gear up and have partial throttle in the turn. This keep it under control. Besides the brake issue if you keep slowing in the corner with no throttle it's loose. Blip the throttle itll straighten out, or hold some throttle it'll stabalize. Give it a shot. I'll wait for other on the tune cause they're good at it.

ran two lap to better understand before I tried to help.
24h Nurb
Stock- 547hp-no oil- online - set to tuning prohibited- grip real- abs 1 only-race hards
GT-R n24
Ran a 8:58.874
Using a DFGT
 
The car's 2-way LSD makes it very stable at the back. It gets twitchy because the open diff. at the front allows one wheel to lock-up under braking destabilizing the car. If you turn the wheel or downshift at this point you're gonna go for a ride. I find actually increasing rear brake bias helps to balance the car by stabilizing the front and lossening up the rear. Something like 4 front, 6 rear works surprizingly well with the stock LSD (opening the rear diff., as I mentioned before, does the same thing). Though you do have to be mindful of the rear end with this setup. Just an observation.

Limiting downshifts definitely helps to keep the car stable and it's gear ratios are tight enough to keep it in the power.

I think the 2012 car is a lot more fun than last years model.
 
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bigbear
The car's 2-way LSD makes it very stable at the back. It gets twitchy because the open diff. at the front allows one wheel to lock-up under braking destabilizing the car. If you turn the wheel or downshift at this point you're gonna go for a ride. I find actually increasing rear brake bias helps to balance the car by stabilizing the front and lossening up the rear. Something like 4 front, 6 rear works surprizingly well with the stock LSD (opening the rear diff., as I mentioned before, does the same thing). Though you do have to be mindful of the rear end with this setup. Just an observation.

Limiting downshifts definitely helps to keep the car stable and it's gear ratios are tight enough to keep it in the power.

I think the 2012 car is a lot more fun than last years model.
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Looks like our findings are really different, I am having 10/4 BB, and rarely having issue with the rear wheel stepping out when braking. I find more often the rear loses traction before the front while braking with higher rear BB value such as 10/6. Mind you, I am not using ABS, so I always threshold brake or trail brake on every corner. This was on stock car, no tuning. Maybe it's just driving style which make certain set up having different result.
 
RMSpec7
Wow, if you are having trouble driving this car... Try adjusting the brake bias. Mine is set at 3F2R. Otherwise you need to learn to drive. You kids expect every car to handle like its on rails. Its a simulator, this is how the car drives. Adjust your driving style, which probably sucks.
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WELCOME TO :gtpflag:!!! With that being your first post, you're gonna fit in here great LOL.
 
I'm tending to 10-7 as the brake default try a few laps to see how it goes on all cars. ABS1 is the only aid I use for most cars. I'm using a DFGT wheel and really only need to touch the brake pedal to get good steady braking on tyres appropriate to the car. Standing on the brakes with this set up will result in overheated tyres..fast! But boy can you scrub speed too. So for a DS3 maybe start at 7-2??
 
i think the cars lack of downforce are catching out a lot of people... it is odd that its technically a 'race car' but no downforce but what PD have given us is a real good challenge... i turned down the toe values and adjusted the rear diff threw some camber on it it helped iron it out but still traces of snap brake oversteer was very evident and i lowered it 40mm... i left the cars springs, dampers, but stiffened the swaybars aswell... so the setup is something like this...

Ride Height: F -40 / R -40
Anti Rollbars: F 4 / R 4
Camber: F -3.9 / R -3.0
Toe: F -30 / +15
LSD: Rear -
- Inital Torque - 15
- Accel - 30
- Deccel - 15

not too sure what its like but anyway
 
ENFORCER 98
i think the cars lack of downforce are catching out a lot of people... it is odd that its technically a 'race car' but no downforce but what PD have given us is a real good challenge... i turned down the toe values and adjusted the rear diff threw some camber on it it helped iron it out but still traces of snap brake oversteer was very evident and i lowered it 40mm... i left the cars springs, dampers, but stiffened the swaybars aswell... so the setup is something like this...

Ride Height: F -40 / R -40
Anti Rollbars: F 4 / R 4
Camber: F -3.9 / R -3.0
Toe: F -30 / +15
LSD: Rear -
- Inital Torque - 15
- Accel - 30
- Deccel - 15

not too sure what its like but anyway
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Is this in general or is this set for the Ring? I'm asking because the ride height seems very low for the Ring.
 
I have a setup for the car which makes it that little bit easier to drive, but even so this car is terrible due to the fact front LSD cannot be changed & the aerodynamics cannot be improved either. Nether the less, I had a go at tuning it in Grand Valley Speed way then tested it on Nurburgring Nordschleife also managed to get a hot lap time of 6:36.8 (Which isn't too bad for a car as bad as this lol). I'll have a video of it by tomorrow :).

Anyways enough talk, here's the setup
(Just drive calm, brake early, take it easy around corners & It should work just fine)

Car: Nissan GT-R N24 GT Academy '12 [DLC]

Parts:
Rigidity Improvement
Engine Stage 3 Tuning
Titanium Racing Exhaust
High RPM Turbo (Stage 3)
Fully Customisable Transmission
Fully Customisable LSD
Fully Customisable Suspension
Racing Soft Tires

Setup:

Transmission (Follow in order)
Final Gear: 5.500
Max Speed: 124mph
1st Gear: 2.993
2nd Gear: 2.137
3rd Gear: 1.703
4th Gear: 1.401
5th Gear: 1.189
6th Gear: 1.027
Final Gear: 3.040
Top Speed = 216mph [Top Right Corner]

LSD
Initial: 10
Acceleration: 12
Braking: 55

Suspension
Ride Height: -40/-40
Spring Rate: 14.4/15.2
Extension: 10/10
Compression: 8/8
ARB: 7/7
Camber Angle: 1.8/2.4
Toe Angle: -0.06/-0.12

Brakes
0/10
 
I've just tried this car out for the first time to see what all the fuss is about.

The only change was to turn TCS off and drive the Nordschleife, and apart from some minor correctiveness required when I was a little bit enthusiastic with throttle coming out of Aremberg, I found this car to be a perfectly good drive.

I'd say it's a bit slower than last years car but it's not bad at all.
 
I tuned this car at spa

Nissan gtr n24 gt academy '12

GT-Academy-Nissan-GT-R-front-1024x640.jpg


Ballast
Amount 155
Position 50

Specs
841 hp
1855 kg(heavy car)
600 pp

Parts to buy
Chassis reinforcement
Engine tuning stage 3
Titanium racing exhaust
Fully customizable transmission
Adjustable LSD
Fully customizable suspension

Transmission
set final at 4.806
Set top speed at 124
Set final gear at 2.500
Set gear ratios
1st 3.161
2nd 2.665
3rd 2.132
4th 1.685
5th 1.369
6th 1.176

LSD
Initial torque 6
Acceleration sensitivity 10
Braking sensitivity 39

Suspension
Ride height -5/-10 Camber 0.9/1.3
Spring rate 19.4/15.5 Toe angle -0.84/0.40
Damper extension 5/6
Damper compression 4/7
Antiroll bars 3/5

Brakes
4/6

Tires racing soft

This car is harder to tune then you think.the back always slides out when I try to brake and turn.it slides out even when I be off the brakes and turn.i got rid some of the understeer but the rear is still unstable
 
Can't stand all these tunes with Engine and power upgrades. It's mean't to be raced with the power its given!! Can't stand turbos and engine upgrades on race cars. Defeats the purpose and reasoning in my opinion.
 
A_Higher_Place
Can't stand all these tunes with Engine and power upgrades. It's mean't to be raced with the power its given!! Can't stand turbos and engine upgrades on race cars. Defeats the purpose and reasoning in my opinion.
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If you racing online,you need engine upgrades and turbos or you gonna be smoked in a straight line
 
*Insert scumbag meme*


"Oh, MrM publicly said that he wants to tune a car"


"Let's tune the same car, and add way too much ballast and way too much horsepower."


"Yeah! That's awesome, broskiye!"


:grumpy: Thanks, gentlemen, for being respectful.
 
MrMelancholy15
*Insert scumbag meme*

"Oh, MrM publicly said that he wants to tune a car"

"Let's tune the same car, and add way too much ballast and way too much horsepower."

"Yeah! That's awesome, broskiye!"

:grumpy: Thanks, gentlemen, for being respectful.
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Lol good one
 
Car has no Down-Force, ya its kinda cool to have a more realistic racecar, but at least give us some down-force so its drivable, hehe...Kaz cruel joke...
 
I just drove it, bone stock, straight from the dealer and I only really had one problem with it on the nurb. 1 instant where the back end stepped out, that was it.. Dont mash the brake's and you'll be fine.. I actually quite like the set up.. So much so that Im actually going to put it on my Mild Tune GT-R BE and go cruising...
 
Finally uploaded the Nissan GT-R N24 GT Academy '12 [DLC] lap time at nurburgring using the tune I previously posted on here [Fully Tuned] Not sure if the tune will work on a stock one, but worth a try right? 👍

Anyways here's the lap run, enjoy guys!



​
 
Had this problem at first too. Wasn't used to it. I adapted quickly, but so far, only scored a 9:09.204 on the Nurburgring 24H, 100% stock, including the Racing Hard tires.
 
Not sure I understand what all the beef is about this car, I just took it completely stock and no aids apart from ABS=1 with RH tyres (tires) for 2 laps around Nurb 24 and clocked a 9:08:329. By no means a quick lap but it's pretty reasonable and I found it a pretty well behaved car and a sub 9 lap is definitely possible.


Update: By Comparison a completely stock GTR Black Edition straight from the dealership which has an almost identical PP rating and I also ran completely stock with RH tyres, no aids except ABS=1 did the Nurb 24 in 8:56.757!
 
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Argon56
Not sure I understand what all the beef is about this car, I just took it completely stock and no aids apart from ABS=1 with RH tyres (tires) for 2 laps around Nurb 24 and clocked a 9:08:329. By no means a quick lap but it's pretty reasonable and I found it a pretty well behaved car and a sub 9 lap is definitely possible.

Update: By Comparison a completely stock GTR Black Edition straight from the dealership which has an almost identical PP rating and I also ran completely stock with RH tyres, no aids except ABS=1 did the Nurb 24 in 8:56.757!
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So why pd put the n24 gt academy gtr in the game where you can set a faster lap time with the black edition with the same pp and tires
 
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