problems with tuning a car to drift

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Mopar-383
Hi guys, IM new to gt6 as I just got it couple days ago. And I have been having problems trying to figure out on how to tune my car to drift better. I am not new to the grand turismo series as I used to drift alot on gt5 but that was long ago. I have been trying to find guides on tuning your suspenion for drifting, but have not been successful. If you guys know a forum or that could help me that would be greatly appreciated.
 
So, ill post my suspension tune here for try to help you but for a good drift you will need good gears and LSD that everyone uses 5/60/60. Ill post my suspension here and if someone see any errors and see how to improve it, tell me cuz i still improving it and it's really good at the moment.

Ride height: Put something like 10+ above the limit of the height in the both sides, sometimes if you want put +in the rear or just drop it in the limit.

Springs: This go for car by car, but lets say the limit is 20 in the both sides, u let the front end stiff and the rear end soft like F17.00-R11.00.

Dampers compression-extension: I dont understand too much about this but i put 6-5 on the compression and 5-6 on the extension i dont know if is wrong or not but works for most of my cars.

Anti roll bars: 4-3 or 3-3

Camber: I put 4.0 on the front and 2.5-3.0 in the rear.

Toe: I put -0.40 or -0.50 on the front and rear i put 0.25 or 0.10

Brakes: F.3-R.10

Hope i have helped you, and again, if someone find any errors tell me how to fix if possible.
 
So, ill post my suspension tune here for try to help you but for a good drift you will need good gears and LSD that everyone uses 5/60/60. Ill post my suspension here and if someone see any errors and see how to improve it, tell me cuz i still improving it and it's really good at the moment.

Ride height: Put something like 10+ above the limit of the height in the both sides, sometimes if you want put +in the rear or just drop it in the limit.

Springs: This go for car by car, but lets say the limit is 20 in the both sides, u let the front end stiff and the rear end soft like F17.00-R11.00.

Dampers compression-extension: I dont understand too much about this but i put 6-5 on the compression and 5-6 on the extension i dont know if is wrong or not but works for most of my cars.

Anti roll bars: 4-3 or 3-3

Camber: I put 4.0 on the front and 2.5-3.0 in the rear.

Toe: I put -0.40 or -0.50 on the front and rear i put 0.25 or 0.10

Brakes: F.3-R.10

Hope i have helped you, and again, if someone find any errors tell me how to fix if possible.
That's a lot of camber. Car might have some issues sliding to the outside too much. But, this sounds like a DS3 tune.
 
That's a lot of camber. Car might have some issues sliding to the outside too much. But, this sounds like a DS3 tune.
Yes yes, is a DS3 tune (but please dont call me noob because of this, i cant buy a wheel ._.).And about the camber, i tested with 1.0 rear in my M3 and i had dificults to put it sideways then i put 3.0 back, but u think less camber than that is better? How much?
 
Yes yes, is a DS3 tune (but please dont call me noob because of this, i cant buy a wheel ._.).And about the camber, i tested with 1.0 rear in my M3 and i had dificults to put it sideways then i put 3.0 back, but u think less camber than that is better? How much?
Well the M3 is already a very grippy car. That's probably why you couldn't get it sideways. My rear camber is usually around 0.3 - 0.8 and front between 1.5 and 2.7. over that the car slides out too much when the ebrake is on or when I'm initiating. But again, the M3 is a very grippy car and is one of the few that a lot of people find to grippy to drift (ie: it's a special car when it comes to tuning).
 
Well the M3 is already a very grippy car. That's probably why you couldn't get it sideways. My rear camber is usually around 0.3 - 0.8 and front between 1.5 and 2.7. over that the car slides out too much when the ebrake is on or when I'm initiating. But again, the M3 is a very grippy car and is one of the few that a lot of people find to grippy to drift (ie: it's a special car when it comes to tuning).
Ah, ok, what car do you think os better to drift with a good setup? Because im searching my "MAIN CAR" yet, and please dont say me Silvias
 
So, ill post my suspension tune here for try to help you but for a good drift you will need good gears and LSD that everyone uses 5/60/60. Ill post my suspension here and if someone see any errors and see how to improve it, tell me cuz i still improving it and it's really good at the moment.

Ride height: Put something like 10+ above the limit of the height in the both sides, sometimes if you want put +in the rear or just drop it in the limit.

Springs: This go for car by car, but lets say the limit is 20 in the both sides, u let the front end stiff and the rear end soft like F17.00-R11.00.

Dampers compression-extension: I dont understand too much about this but i put 6-5 on the compression and 5-6 on the extension i dont know if is wrong or not but works for most of my cars.

Anti roll bars: 4-3 or 3-3

Camber: I put 4.0 on the front and 2.5-3.0 in the rear.

Toe: I put -0.40 or -0.50 on the front and rear i put 0.25 or 0.10

Brakes: F.3-R.10

Hope i have helped you, and again, if someone find any errors tell me how to fix if possible.

No offense but this tune looks horrible. Raising the car will give it way too much body roll and we'll become unstable. There is a medium when it comes to running on this game. That excessive camber will make you extremely slow
 
Mopar, Next time you online and you see me online join a room and us @ RSM will help get it it straight. 5/60/60 diffs blow in the game. Try 5/15/15..
 
It's true that 5 60 60 is no longer as efficient as it used to be, although 5 15 15 seems very weak and I would think prone to understeer.

I like to run 15 40 40 on my chaser because I want that little extra half-second or whatever to get it sideways before the diff kicks in. I usually run 7 40 40 on everything else.

40 on acc/dec seems to be nice and smooth without being too strong.

Basically, mess around with diff settings to see what they can do for you, because everybody feels their cars differently.

I would only advise using a 2-way diff (same values on acc/dec) and don't have your initial too high, 15 would be the maximum for me personally.
 
Ah, ok, what car do you think os better to drift with a good setup? Because im searching my "MAIN CAR" yet, and please dont say me Silvias
350/370 or if you want more power, Supras are good. But, those are only because you said no silvias.
 
So, ill post my suspension tune here for try to help you but for a good drift you will need good gears and LSD that everyone uses 5/60/60. Ill post my suspension here and if someone see any errors and see how to improve it, tell me cuz i still improving it and it's really good at the moment.

Ride height: Put something like 10+ above the limit of the height in the both sides, sometimes if you want put +in the rear or just drop it in the limit.

Springs: This go for car by car, but lets say the limit is 20 in the both sides, u let the front end stiff and the rear end soft like F17.00-R11.00.

Dampers compression-extension: I dont understand too much about this but i put 6-5 on the compression and 5-6 on the extension i dont know if is wrong or not but works for most of my cars.

Anti roll bars: 4-3 or 3-3

Camber: I put 4.0 on the front and 2.5-3.0 in the rear.

Toe: I put -0.40 or -0.50 on the front and rear i put 0.25 or 0.10

Brakes: F.3-R.10

Hope i have helped you, and again, if someone find any errors tell me how to fix if possible.
You haven't helped at all LOL That's way off what I would ever touch in real life, and therefore the same goes for GT6. That is the best way to ruin a good car, especially your toe and camber settings (4 degrees front camber is fine, but the rest is so wrong it's not funny)

Simple place to start with ANY FR car which you want to drift:
Most of my drift cars in GT6 are set pretty much the same and all are pretty much there bar minor tweeks.

Height - 20-25mm drop (adjust the rear +/-5mm depending on whether the car is oversteering or understeering too much.

Spring rate - stock

Dampers - FR-4 and RR-4 (up the rear to 5 if it's too understeery). Any stiffer than this and it won't work on stock (soft) spring rates.

Camber - Between 3 and 4 degrees front (more camber makes car more stable on big angle but less stable/more twitchy on low angle). 0.0 on the rear, you want the back tyres sitting flat on the tarmac to give you maximum traction. No variation on this. It's a standard drift setup in real life.

Toe - Stock. 0.0 on front and 0.20 toe-in on the rear.

Diff - 5/60/60 No ifs, ands or buts :)

I haven't found a single car yet that this doesn't work on as a good base. All you do then is fine tune. I raise or lower the rear of the car 5mm, stiffen the rear ARB, add/remove camber on front (but still always between 3 and 4 degrees)

The geometry, for what it's worth, is exactly what we put on all cars when they go for alignment.

Hope that helps everyone :)
 
You haven't helped at all LOL That's way off what I would ever touch in real life, and therefore the same goes for GT6. That is the best way to ruin a good car, especially your toe and camber settings (4 degrees front camber is fine, but the rest is so wrong it's not funny)

Simple place to start with ANY FR car which you want to drift:
Most of my drift cars in GT6 are set pretty much the same and all are pretty much there bar minor tweeks.

Height - 20-25mm drop (adjust the rear +/-5mm depending on whether the car is oversteering or understeering too much.

Spring rate - stock

Dampers - FR-4 and RR-4 (up the rear to 5 if it's too understeery). Any stiffer than this and it won't work on stock (soft) spring rates.

Camber - Between 3 and 4 degrees front (more camber makes car more stable on big angle but less stable/more twitchy on low angle). 0.0 on the rear, you want the back tyres sitting flat on the tarmac to give you maximum traction. No variation on this. It's a standard drift setup in real life.

Toe - Stock. 0.0 on front and 0.20 toe-in on the rear.

Diff - 5/60/60 No ifs, ands or buts :)

I haven't found a single car yet that this doesn't work on as a good base. All you do then is fine tune. I raise or lower the rear of the car 5mm, stiffen the rear ARB, add/remove camber on front (but still always between 3 and 4 degrees)

The geometry, for what it's worth, is exactly what we put on all cars when they go for alignment.

Hope that helps everyone :)
Have you played GT6? @TwinturboCH
 
Do you really think I'd make a post like that if I hadn't? LOL I'm only at about 95% completion and only about 20-odd drift cars :)

In fact, I actually said 'Most of my cars in GT6 have this setup'. Maybe read before posting ;)
my post was not in sarcasm or to question the validity of your post. I was going to ask you something, now if you would be ever so kind as to take your head out your ass, will you try both a 60/60/60 LSD vs a 5/60/60 LSD. And don't shove your head back up there, honestly try each LSD on a working setup to see how they differentiate in performance before you post.

Edit: @TwinturboCH
 
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Apologies, with the amount of 'calling out' people do on my posts, it kind of becomes a reflex, so sorry LOL

5/60/60 is a nice new 2-way that locks up straight away.

60/60/60 Seems to be like a worn out 2-way where it still locks up, but not until the inside wheel has initially spun a little more.
 
Apologies, with the amount of 'calling out' people do on my posts, it kind of becomes a reflex, so sorry LOL

5/60/60 is a nice new 2-way that locks up straight away.

60/60/60 Seems to be like a worn out 2-way where it still locks up, but not until the inside wheel has initially spun a little more.
So, would you say both are essentially locked however one is a more vigorous lock in terms of throttle/braking response? I assumed this however have nowhere near as much "real-life credibility" as the pigs lurking on the GTP forums would like me to have. If you would be ever so kind as to support or refute my statement then I will be happy.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys. And fast fox I may have to take up that offer. Haha you know what IM trying to drift with
 
So, would you say both are essentially locked however one is a more vigorous lock in terms of throttle/braking response? I assumed this however have nowhere near as much "real-life credibility" as the pigs lurking on the GTP forums would like me to have. If you would be ever so kind as to support or refute my statement then I will be happy.
Yes, exactly. the 60/60 makes it 60% locked under both accel slip and decel slip from what I can gather, the 5 part is just how much slip it allows before it locks, so setting that to 60 means there is much more inside wheel slip before the diff kicks in. It seems like more of a torque load rather than a percentage though, as it is physically impossible for it to allow 60% slip before then activating a 60% lock, if you see what I mean.
 
Yes, exactly. the 60/60 makes it 60% locked under both accel slip and decel slip from what I can gather, the 5 part is just how much slip it allows before it locks, so setting that to 60 means there is much more inside wheel slip before the diff kicks in. It seems like more of a torque load rather than a percentage though, as it is physically impossible for it to allow 60% slip before then activating a 60% lock, if you see what I mean.
I thought that was how it worked. Cheers!
 
Makes sense. Which is why it doesn't go to 100% because that would mean it's no longer a Limited Slip Diff.
 
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