PSVR2 + Bass Shakers = new level of immersion.

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Hey all

thought I would share my experience after I spent a bit of time recently installing bass shakers to my playseat challenge , it’s made the whole experience of VR racing into another level.
Have added a Dayton BST-1 bass shaker to the rear leg and another underneath the pedals , so front and rear vibrations.

Just being able to feel the wheels lockup , gear changes and vibration as you go onto the curbs really adds to the immersion, and actually knowing when you loose grip with vibration helps improve your driving.

I was sceptical when I researched this and people saying they couldn’t drive without them after trying them but I’m not in that camp. And all for £130.

Happy to answer any questions.

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I have also played with the idea of a good bass shaker setup and I'm very glad to hear you're happy with yours. One bass shaker is not enough :)
What's the exact setup you have? Is it a 2-channel Nobsound amp and both shakers connect directly to that? What else is needed?
Also how did you split the channels between front and rear?
 
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What's the exact setup you have? Is it a 2-channel Nobsound amp and both shakers connect directly to that? What else is needed?
Also how did you split the channels between front and rear?

So..
Nobsound NS-10G 2 x 50w amp connects to PC laptop via usb cable (running Sim hub to convert GT7 data to sound).
2 x Dayton Audio BST-1 Bass Shaker. Rear bass shaker connected to left channel of Nobsound amp, Front bass shaker connected to right channel via speaker cable.
Mounted on some mdf board at the rear held with 4 U clips. Front I could have done a diy but i went with lowdown shakers pedal chassis as it lifted up the front which gave enough room for the bass shaker to fit underneath, and it feels more solid than the original seat pedal fixings..

Sim hub has a bass shaker setup which has left and right channels connected to rear and front settings of the car.
So then for example rear wheels go onto curb, rear bass shaker vibrates and visa versa. Its all adjustable to your liking.
I have things like

Engine Vibration
Gear shift
Wheels slip vibration
Road texture vibration
Road impact vibration
ABS active
TC Active

All tweaked to front and rear and then adjustment upto 100% depending on how much you want to feel.

I have the amp set to 50% volume and it feels very accurate. anything higher and i think the chair would start moving around the room lol

hope that helps.
 
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So..
Nobsound NS-10G 2 x 50w amp connects to PC laptop via usb cable (running Sim hub to convert GT7 data to sound).
2 x Dayton Audio BST-1 Bass Shaker. Rear bass shaker connected to left channel of Nobsound amp, Front bass shaker connected to right channel via speaker cable.
Mounted on some mdf board at the rear held with 4 U clips. Front I could have done a diy but i went with lowdown shakers pedal chassis as it lifted up the front which gave enough room for the bass shaker to fit underneath, and it feels more solid than the original seat pedal fixings..

Sim hub has a bass shaker setup which has left and right channels connected to rear and front settings of the car.
So then for example rear wheels go onto curb, rear bass shaker vibrates and visa versa. Its all adjustable to your liking.
I have things like

Engine Vibration
Gear shift
Wheels slip vibration
Road texture vibration
Road impact vibration
ABS active
TC Active

All tweaked to front and rear and then adjustment upto 100% depending on how much you want to feel.

I have the amp set to 50% volume and it feels very accurate. anything higher and i think the chair would start moving around the room lol

hope that helps.
I totally agree with you about the feeling you can get on curbs or when you shift a gear :D
I also recommend to use the Speed effect (act as a "road texture" effect that increase with speed) mine triggers after 200km/h.

How did you configure the Wheel Slip effect ? I can't find a good setting for this effect, it triggers too early or too late...

GT7 telemetry doesn't provide data about TC or ABS so those effects don't work with GT7 :
  • ABS Active
  • TC Active
 
I always wanted to look into Sim Hub for GT7 as well, but I haven't found the time yet. I currently use two shakers (1 left, 1 right) on my diy rig, but their signal is purely based on game audio as of yet. This works surprisingly well for many effects, but of course it has its limits.

For Sim Hub, what would an optimal number of shakers be, and where should they be mounted? When swapping my shaker setup from audio to Sim Hub, I wouldn't mind adding more shakers, but I have no experience with Sim Hub at all.
 
I totally agree with you about the feeling you can get on curbs or when you shift a gear :D
I also recommend to use the Speed effect (act as a "road texture" effect that increase with speed) mine triggers after 200km/h.

How did you configure the Wheel Slip effect ? I can't find a good setting for this effect, it triggers too early or too late...

GT7 telemetry doesn't provide data about TC or ABS so those effects don't work with GT7 :
  • ABS Active
  • TC Active
Actually i`m still trying to refine that wheel slip effect, you`re right mine feels a bit late so think its needing some tweaking.
I`m sure TC active is available from GT7, but yes didnt meant to add ABS as that isnt available.
I`ll give the speed effect a go, thanks
 
I always wanted to look into Sim Hub for GT7 as well, but I haven't found the time yet. I currently use two shakers (1 left, 1 right) on my diy rig, but their signal is purely based on game audio as of yet. This works surprisingly well for many effects, but of course it has its limits.

For Sim Hub, what would an optimal number of shakers be, and where should they be mounted? When swapping my shaker setup from audio to Sim Hub, I wouldn't mind adding more shakers, but I have no experience with Sim Hub at all.
I guess you could go with 4 shakers, left and right at front and rear. Sim Hub allows you to add as many as you like but the data seems to be only there for the corners of the car. Have a look at some youtube videos on setting up sim hub with shakers theres a few on there. And you`ll see theres a ton of configuration you can do with it.
 
I always wanted to look into Sim Hub for GT7 as well, but I haven't found the time yet. I currently use two shakers (1 left, 1 right) on my diy rig, but their signal is purely based on game audio as of yet. This works surprisingly well for many effects, but of course it has its limits.

For Sim Hub, what would an optimal number of shakers be, and where should they be mounted? When swapping my shaker setup from audio to Sim Hub, I wouldn't mind adding more shakers, but I have no experience with Sim Hub at all.

How do you use these without the Simhub interface? I assume some HDMI splitter is needed to get the audio stream to run into the amp that runs the shakers? I've always been intrigued by these by never really looked into it. Would it be worth setting them up on my folding Next Level Racing wheel stand?
 
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How do you use these without the Simhub interface? I assume some HDMI splitter is needed to get the audio stream to run into the amp that runs the shakers? I've always been intrigued by these by never really looked into it. Would it be worth setting them up on my folding Next Level Racing wheel stand?
No you use the local network, sim hub connects to your ps5 aslong as they are on the same network. The ps5 and GT7 send the data and sim hub converts that into sound for the bass shakers. It works remarkably well, no latency at all.
 
How do you use these without the Simhub interface? I assume some HDMI splitter is needed to get the audio stream to run into the amp that runs the shakers? I've always been intrigued by these by never really looked into it. Would it be worth setting them up on my folding Next Level Racing wheel stand?
I use one of these running from the headphone jack on my TV. One side goes to my Logitech Z623 2.1 system and the other goes to my ButtKicker amp. Simple and effective, just not in the same league as running Sim Hub.

81+ZQ-WzBaL.jpg
 
I guess you could go with 4 shakers, left and right at front and rear. Sim Hub allows you to add as many as you like but the data seems to be only there for the corners of the car. Have a look at some youtube videos on setting up sim hub with shakers theres a few on there. And you`ll see theres a ton of configuration you can do with it.
Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it!
How do you use these without the Simhub interface? I assume some HDMI splitter is needed to get the audio stream to run into the amp that runs the shakers? I've always been intrigued by these by never really looked into it. Would it be worth setting them up on my folding Next Level Racing wheel stand?
My TV has an optical digital output. I feed its stereo signal into a cheap dsp for filtering, then into a stereo amp which powers my shakers. Works better than you'd think, this already increases immersion by a good amount.
 
I was hoping to not get a PC involved since I run this in my living room. My PS5 runs to an AV Receiver so I think I would need the splitter. Or maybe I could run the Receiver Zone 2 stereo output directly to a little amp like Pr197uk is using.
 
I had a Logitech system on my rig and tapped the bass signal from the sub to the amp, that amp to the shakers. Works perfect.

I have a small under the pedals, and a large under the seat, it feels perfect.

I built the shaker setup for under 160.00
 
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I was hoping to not get a PC involved since I run this in my living room. My PS5 runs to an AV Receiver so I think I would need the splitter. Or maybe I could run the Receiver Zone 2 stereo output directly to a little amp like Pr197uk is using.
I just use a cheap old laptop next to my gaming rig, could use a long usb cable if a pc is in another place.
The thing with this route is that you are getting real car telemetry from the game as apposed to just using audio . I guess it will give some decent feedback of vibration but not the small details like road texture and wheel slipping I assume.
 
I just use a cheap old laptop next to my gaming rig, could use a long usb cable if a pc is in another place.
The thing with this route is that you are getting real car telemetry from the game as apposed to just using audio . I guess it will give some decent feedback of vibration but not the small details like road texture and wheel slipping I assume.
Point taken. My setup surely isn't ideal, but it has served me well thus far. I have a new-ish mini pc I'll use for sim hub.

As for my current setup, it does a good job with feedback of curbs (including which side they are on), with road noise at speed, with crashes and with engine noise. Also, when you get airborne the road noise disappears for the moment, thus the vibration also stops. Rough road surfaces (e.g. the Nurburgring's Karussel) create extra noise and thus produce extra rumble.

So for just using audio it is not bad at all. I'd recommend this to anyone who can't make a sim hub setup, as the audio-based setup definitely is better than no vibration feedback at all.
 
Hi, I am really interested in getting two 50w Dayton BTS-1 Bass Shakers connected to a NobSound x2 100w to play GT7 on PS5 and use it via Sim Hub. I have a couple of questions and hope you guys can help me out before I decide;

1- can I have more than 2 bass shakers using Sim Hub on my PS5?

2- if I go with only x2 bass shakers of 50w and I get a Nobsound amp of x2 100w would that damage my shakers as it might be giving them more power than needed?

3- can I also connect a HF8 rumble seat that comes with 8 rumblers plus my 2 bass shakers al via simhub on my PS5?

4- is the HF8 rumble seat powerful and/or worth it or is 2 bass shakers better?
 
Hi all, I am really interested in getting two 50w Dayton BTS-1 Bass Shakers connect to a NobSound x2 100w to play GT7 on PS5 and use it via Sim Hub. I have a couple of questions and hope you guys can help me out before I decide;

1- can I have more than 2 bass shakers using Sim Hub on my PS5?

2- if I go with only x2 bass shakers of 50w and I get a Nobsound amp of x2 100w would that damage my shakers as it might be giving them more power than needed?

3- can I also connect a HF8 rumble seat that comes with 8 rumblers plus my 2 bass shakers al via simhub on my PS5?

4- is the HF8 rumble seat powerful and/or worth it or is 2 bass shakers better?
1/ Yes can add more than 2 shakers. 4 would probably surfice.
2/ Thats fine, usually good to go for more powerful amplifier than the speaker ratings anyway.

Sorry cant answer 3 and 4.
 
Thanks for your reply. In the end I've ordered x 2 Dayton BST-1s but sadly can't make Sim Hub connect with my PS5 so I am stuck 😕 I've tried everything and nothing works, so frustrated.
 
Thanks for your reply. In the end I've ordered x 2 Dayton BST-1s but sadly can't make Sim Hub connect with my PS5 so I am stuck 😕 I've tried everything and nothing works, so frustrated.
Hows it all connected up. I`m using wired to a switch & router. The laptop I have is wired in to that switch aswell. But also had it connected to a desktop via a second switch. Both just instantly connected.
 
Attached 2x 50 watt 4 Ohm AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Tactile Transducers on crossbar under the seat. Have them running off sub channel from receiver that's running off HDMI eArc from TV (or any input, including PC, PS3, PS2, Cable box, etc..) Did that over 10 years ago.

But I can finely control gain and crossover point with dials right next to rig on the "Dayton Audio SPA250 250W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier". That's a 4 ohm amp so I run the bass shakers in series. If I run then in parallel it's a 2 ohm load which would blow the amp up.

Plus there's a 10" Polk sub right next to rig. Need to get sim hub running with GT5 though, PC is right next to rig too. It's not bad with subwoofer out signal when you can control it precisely but I'm sure it's nowhere near as good as with Simhub. It's insanely powerful as it is, can feel it in the pedals, wheel, and seat, have to turn it way down most of the time. If I forget to turn them on it feels completely wrong and dead, like something is missing. It's hard to drive without them now.
 

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Hows it all connected up. I`m using wired to a switch & router. The laptop I have is wired in to that switch aswell. But also had it connected to a desktop via a second switch. Both just instantly connected.
Hmm a might need to try a switch then. Did you have to configure anything on it or just simply connect the ethernet cables to it and it all worked?

I have the PS5 and Laptop wired via Ethernet to the router.

BWX
Attached 2x 50 watt 4 Ohm AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Tactile Transducers on crossbar under the seat. Have them running off sub channel from receiver that's running off HDMI eArc from TV (or any input, including PC, PS3, PS2, Cable box, etc..) Did that over 10 years ago.

But I can finely control gain and crossover point with dials right next to rig on the "Dayton Audio SPA250 250W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier". That's a 4 ohm amp so I run the bass shakers in series. If I run then in parallel it's a 2 ohm load which would blow the amp up.

Plus there's a 10" Polk sub right next to rig. Need to get sim hub running with GT5 though, PC is right next to rig too. It's not bad with subwoofer out signal when you can control it precisely but I'm sure it's nowhere near as good as with Simhub. It's insanely powerful as it is, can feel it in the pedals, wheel, and seat, have to turn it way down most of the time. If I forget to turn them on it feels completely wrong and dead, like something is missing. It's hard to drive without them now.
Nice setup 👌🏻👌🏻
 
Nice setup 👌🏻👌🏻
Thanks! It's worth the effort even if you just run them off the subwoofer output. It all sort of blends in with FF wheel, PSVR2 haptics, subwoofer, bass shakers. It's fun!
 
Hmm a might need to try a switch then. Did you have to configure anything on it or just simply connect the ethernet cables to it and it all worked?

I have the PS5 and Laptop wired via Ethernet to the router.
Reposting from another thread to try and help:

First is the networking info: The instructions for adding inbound and outbound traffic exceptions is for your computer based firewall. Unblock both ports listed both inbound and outbound.

Also on your network router, ensure there is no port forwarding, VPN or any type of blocks/restrictions on either the PC you are running Simhub on, or the Playstation running GT7 so both can communicate unimpaired.
I’d also add give SimHub a few minutes to try and connect. It only connects when you are in a race in GT7 and will not give any indication it’s working outside of an actual race with telemetry data being communicated.
 
Hmm a might need to try a switch then. Did you have to configure anything on it or just simply connect the ethernet cables to it and it all worked?

I have the PS5 and Laptop wired via Ethernet to the router.
If theyre both wired into the router that should be fine for it to work. Maybe try uninstalling simhub and retrying the setup. Think there are a couple of network ports that need to be opened aswell but i didnt have to touch any of that.
I guess you could try a switch , i`m just using a 1gb unmanaged switch that was cheap. But just because its in another room to my router with lots of other things connected.
Or try another computer if you have one. You can connect your phone up to it aswell , and you`ll see if there is any data coming through from GT7.
 
If theyre both wired into the router that should be fine for it to work. Maybe try uninstalling simhub and retrying the setup. Think there are a couple of network ports that need to be opened aswell but i didnt have to touch any of that.
I guess you could try a switch , i`m just using a 1gb unmanaged switch that was cheap. But just because its in another room to my router with lots of other things connected.
Or try another computer if you have one. You can connect your phone up to it aswell , and you`ll see if there is any data coming through from GT7.
Yeah I opened up the ports Simhub requested and still nothing. But to have my phone connected to Simhub I would need the router and PS5 to communicate with eachother first right?

Reposting from another thread to try and help:


I’d also add give SimHub a few minutes to try and connect. It only connects when you are in a race in GT7 and will not give any indication it’s working outside of an actual race with telemetry data being communicated.
Thanks but I left GT7 on Time Trial and closed and reopened Simhub during various IP address changes I made and still nothing 😕

BWX
Thanks! It's worth the effort even if you just run them off the subwoofer output. It all sort of blends in with FF wheel, PSVR2 haptics, subwoofer, bass shakers. It's fun!
Thanks, I hope so as it seems like my only option for now 🙈 I have a Denon X3300W AV. Could I use the same Subwoofer port using a splitter or could / should I use the Zone 2 one if I have one? (have to check connections at thw back)
 
Thanks, I hope so as it seems like my only option for now 🙈 I have a Denon X3300W AV. Could I use the same Subwoofer port using a splitter or could / should I use the Zone 2 one if I have one? (have to check connections at thw back)
I just bought a Yamaha RX-A880 last year, but I don't use zone 2 or anything. Before that I had an Yamaha-RX-V6A, but hooked it up the same way. I just take the subwoofer out (RCA cables, L and R channels on this rx's sub out) and run it directly into the Dayton Audio amp. Then on the low level out on the amp, send it to the subwoofer. I used to use RCA splitters when I had a different sub and bass shaker amp and that also worked fine. You might be able to use zone 2 but not sure if you can output just the sub out to zone 2. This new rx has a "party mode" that will run both zones at the same time and that might work too. But this is all much easier since you're just dealing with dials to adjust levels between sub and bass shakers. Works well because I have access to sub crossover and gain, and bass shaker amp crossover and gain right next to rig though.

And the you can always crank up sub output, lower subwoofer gain dial on sub, and raise bass shaker gain to fine tune, or vice-versa. Or turn sub off if you want.

I think running simhub would be great but a lot more of a PITA. I'm still going to set it up and try it.

EDIT- this is a mono amp that combines left and right sub channels, even though left and rigt sub channels are already combined from receiver. But I didn't just run both from amp because it's like a 15 foot cable.


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Oh and you might have to run single RCA sub channel into either left or right sub input if you have a sub amp with stereo input. That's usually in the manual and I think usually the right chanel input.
 
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BWX
I just bought a Yamaha RX-A880 last year, but I don't use zone 2 or anything. Before that I had an Yamaha-RX-V6A, but hooked it up the same way. I just take the subwoofer out (RCA cables, L and R channels on this rx's sub out) and run it directly into the Dayton Audio amp. Then on the low level out on the amp, send it to the subwoofer. I used to use RCA splitters when I had a different sub and bass shaker amp and that also worked fine. You might be able to use zone 2 but not sure if you can output just the sub out to zone 2. This new rx has a "party mode" that will run both zones at the same time and that might work too. But this is all much easier since you're just dealing with dials to adjust levels between sub and bass shakers. Works well because I have access to sub crossover and gain, and bass shaker amp crossover and gain right next to rig though.

And the you can always crank up sub output, lower subwoofer gain dial on sub, and raise bass shaker gain to fine tune, or vice-versa. Or turn sub off if you want.

I think running simhub would be great but a lot more of a PITA. I'm still going to set it up and try it.

EDIT- this is a mono amp that combines left and right sub channels, even though left and rigt sub channels are already combined from receiver. But I didn't just run both from amp because it's like a 15 foot cable.


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Nice 👌🏻 it looks like you have total control over the bass shakers. If you do get to set up Sim Hub please let me know your impressions compared to this current setup you have.
 

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