Quarter Mile

  • Thread starter FourtyOz.
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FourtyOz.

19
As you can probably tell, I am a new Member to this site :scared: but I am actually relatively experienced in Gran Tourismo, and have been since I bought the Gran Tourismo 3 PS2 bundle, late 2005. Blah Blah Blah. The point is I have been tuning particularly muscle cars since early last year in GT4, and I am a HUGE quarter mile fan. The closest thing to a quarter mile (being about 402.439 metres) in GT4 is the Las Vegas drag strip (400 metres). So I've been getting aquainted with it in the most suitable cars there are for the strip; American Muscle Cars.

That's why I have decided to post my first thread on 400m Time settings.

Cars to be included yet are:

-'62 Buick Special (Brilliant Power To Weight)

-Shelby Cobra (not AC)

-'71 'Cuda 440 Six Pack

-'70 Dodge Charger R/T

-'70 Chevrolet Chevelle SS

and heaps more classics...............

Will start to posting soon, bubye.............
 
Some general rules of thumb for tweaking for the quarter mile (on GT4) are as follows:

Suspension - Use lower spring rate, especially in the rear.
- High ride height, both front and rear helps, improves air flow or something.
- Camber angle is useless, your only reducing your traction by using it.

Nitrous - Full power, of course, you only need about 8 seconds worth of the stuff.

Ballast - I find a good general setting for ballast is 50/50 , although I will soon change that to suit the particular car.

Weight - The lighter the car, the better, you've got ballast to keep the rear wheels on the ground.

Power - Usually the more the merrier, but it does depend on where the power lies. To be sure you've got plenty of low down grunt you should go for a supercharger.

Tires - Like NOS tires don't need to last long, just provide thrust.
 
FourtyOz.
Some general rules of thumb for tweaking for the quarter mile (on GT4) are as follows:

Suspension - Use lower spring rate, especially in the rear.
- High ride height, both front and rear helps, improves air flow or something.
- Camber angle is useless, your only reducing your traction by using it.

Nitrous - Full power, of course, you only need about 8 seconds worth of the stuff.

Ballast - I find a good general setting for ballast is 50/50 , although I will soon change that to suit the particular car.

Weight - The lighter the car, the better, you've got ballast to keep the rear wheels on the ground.

Power - Usually the more the merrier, but it does depend on where the power lies. To be sure you've got plenty of low down grunt you should go for a supercharger.

Tires - Like NOS tires don't need to last long, just provide thrust.
Click to expand...

Too soft of a rear spring rate is bad. It seems to work best to have the rear springs between 4 and 6 kg/mm. The front should be as soft as possible to allow for maximum front suspension extension.

The front shocks should be set to 1/1, again, to quicken extension and rearward weight shift.

Higher ride height raises the center of gravity, and a higher CG creates more rearward weight shift on launch. However, keeping the rear fairly low can help you as well. I like to max the front ride height and drop the rear ride height until I stop seeing improvements, provided I'm using TCS and have enough power to light the tires.

Low-end grunt isn't always where you want your power. You want the power adder to give you the WIDEST powerband possible. Some cars that's supercharged, some it's turbocharged, some it's NA.

Tires: R1s up front, R5s out back. Yields slight improvements over R5s front and rear.
 
img0010by5.jpg

'62 Buick Special

To buy:

Oil Change
Racing Exhaust
Port & Polish
Engine Balancing
Racing Chip
Nitrous Oxide
Transmission FC
Triple Plate Clutch
Racing Flywheel
Carbon Driveshaft
Super Charger
Suspension FC
R5 Tyres
Weight Reduction Stage 3

To Set:

TCS: 7
ASM (u): 0
ASM (o): 0

Ballast Weight: 200
F/R Ballance: 50

Transmission:

Note: The Transmission is set in four steps, make sure they are used in order given.

Step1
Set Final to 3.470

Step2
Set Auto to 7

Step3
Set Gear Ratios as follows:

1 - 3.156
2 - 2.100
3 - 1.538
4 - 1.195
5 - 0.963
6 - 0.818

Step4
Change Final to 2.500

Suspension:

F / R

Spring Rate: 2.1 / 5.0
Ride Height: 122 / 110
Damper (B): 1 / 10
Damper (R): 1 / 10
Camber: 0.0 / 0.0
Toe Angle: 0 / 0
Stabiliser: 1-7 / 1-7





You may already have a setup which works better than any of these, you wouldn't have to be a genius, but I still want to get out all my knowlege so that less experienced players can get better results. If you'd like to post your own car settings, or advice, on this thread it would be much appreciated, as I have room for Improvement.



img0017es3.jpg

'67 Shelby Cobra

To buy:

Oil Change
Racing Exhaust
Port & Polish
Engine Balancing
Racing Chip
Nitrous Oxide
Transmission FC
Triple Plate Clutch
Racing Flywheel
Carbon Driveshaft
Super Charger
Suspension FC
R5 Tyres
Weight Reduction Stage 3

To Set:

TCS: 7
ASM (u): 0
ASM (o): 0

Ballast Weight: 80
F/R Ballance: 50

Transmission:

Note: The Transmission is set in three steps, make sure they are used in order given.

Step1
Set Auto to 21

Step2
Set Gear Ratios as follows:

1 - 2.764
2 - 1.680
3 - 1.168
4 - 0.858
5 - 0.670

Step3
Change Final to 2.900

Suspension:

F / R

Spring Rate: 5.0 - 7.0 / 2.1
Ride Height: 150 / 150
Damper (B): 1 / 10
Damper (R): 1 / 10
Camber: 0.0 / 0.0
Toe Angle: 0 / 0
Stabiliser: 1-7 / 1-7
 
HMMMMMM I see You rank third for no nitrous quarter mile run, and you ran an 8.406 in an RX-7. See this is why I wonder why I bothered posting a thread. The thing is I want to teach, but I will have to do some learning first.

C'MON ppls more suggestions...................
 
This is coming from a person that got in an infraction for double posting. Please group stuff together unless it's a setup. They frown apond double posting.
 
not a bad idea, using old musclecars is always cool on the strip,

But yeah, always group everything into one large post. Or, set up a website on freewebs.com or somewhere, where you can set up all the tuning settings for all the different cars, and provide a link to it from here. It would save space. And time.
 
Welcome to the tuner ranks FourtyOz, and being the 1/4 mile afficionado around here I'm extra pleased that you love the strip too. :D:D:D

Now, looking at your specs, I've seen some things you need to touch up.

1. You say FC Suspension, but you don't have a full listing of your suspension settings. Damper bound/rebound is a big issue when it comes to setting up these cars. I have a different method to RJ when it comes to suspension tuning and we end up with different records as a result. I'm usually quicker over 400m, and he's usually quicker over 1000m.

2. You need to REALLY tailor your gearing to maximise it's potential. Just setting the autogear + final ratio won't cut it to be honest. With my FF cars, it took me hours and hours to tuning to improve my times by nearly a whole second. When I started playing in 2005 my best FF was a 12.26 Eclipse, and now I have over 30 seperate FF cars in the 11's due to gearing and tuning improvements.

3. The TCS is set just a liiiiiiiittle too high. ;)
 
you need help on the quarter mile? oh that's easy, there's a guy here named mafia_boy, he runs the 1/4 Mile Thread in the GT4 subforum. in fact, he's that guy^^ 👍
 
mafia_boy
I have a different method to RJ when it comes to suspension tuning and we end up with different records as a result. I'm usually quicker over 400m, and he's usually quicker over 1000m.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I noticed that his ideas didn't help at all, rather they sent me into the 9.3xx's........ BTW I was only in the 9.2xx's then...........
 
mafia_boy
1. You say FC Suspension, but you don't have a full listing of your suspension settings. Damper bound/rebound is a big issue when it comes to setting up these cars. I have a different method to RJ when it comes to suspension tuning and we end up with different records as a result. I'm usually quicker over 400m, and he's usually quicker over 1000m
Click to expand...

In AWDs that is.

You beat me over the head with experience in FWD, I'll admit that, but we're quite equal in RWDs.

My R1/R5 tire combo yields slight gains in a RWD, in FWD I reverse it, and I'll use it in AWD if I can get decent hook with it.

In AWD cars, that tire combo, when added to specific tricks with the suspension, leads to MASSIVE gains in acceleration. The issue is, however, hook. Naturally, I have less grip with that setup on launch.


FourtyOZ: What vehicle? I'll see what I can do with it.
 
You're getting there 40oz. A couple of specs there would be really good on the strip, but then you unbalance it with the other settings. I'd suggest some more suspension tuning, you can get another........0.2, maybe 0.3sec off your times with better weight distribution and movement.

RJ, AWD's never been my bread and butter, FF's are....we all know this. 👍 But I can still keep up with the 4WD crowd if needed. :D
 
Don't get me wrong, FWD's can do some tricky stunts, but RWD's are the way to go............ And AWD's are pretty quick on the strip, but where's the fun in tuning them................

Holy Crapsickles, there is no way I can gain a fifth of a second off suspension............:crazy:Wat tuning guides do u read?? I want some:dopey:
 
So far, I have the Buick down to 8.862... Oh, how I wish there was more ride height adjustment!

Running 5.0kg springs out back, 122 front, 110 rear ride height. This thing bottoms out any lower, it seems.

2.1kg front springs.
 
FourtyOz.
Way to go.........
Wat damper?? And did you start with my setup??
Click to expand...

Started off my own basis.

The car is still in progress. Down to 8.791.

It's currently at something like

2.1/5.6 springs
122/110 ride height
1/4 bound
1/9 rebound
Nil camber
Nil toe
4/4 stabilizers.
 
Nope, I just go off what I think the car needs.

This Buick is a bit on the odd side due to the way the body is draped over it... It's so low that there isn't much you can do to it to shift more weight rearward.

Oh, yeah, I'm running 200kg ballast.
 
For some cars, like my drag beetle. I figured out that the less wheel touching in the front the better, and the more in back the better too. It seems like common sense to me. Why do the front tires need to be touching all the way? The cars not going to turning or anything. Max it out and Put R1's Front, R5's Rear and 12.0 camber in the front and 0 out back. I think that was the final thing I did to the suspension, before I moved onto the tranny. Most certainly helped out alot.

Also, you're not tuning for top speed, you're tuning for acceleration. So don't make the car have alot of top speed. Just have enough to get to the end of the strip fast.

Maybe it'll be useful?
 
rotary junkie: cant you get original suspension for the buick?

And i gave up on drag tuning, who cares about going straight when sideways is an option?
 
Fluke
rotary junkie: cant you get original suspension for the buick?

And i gave up on drag tuning, who cares about going straight when sideways is an option?
Click to expand...

Often after I tune my cars on the strip I drop the TCS, and hit the corners just for fun :sly:👍
 
True that. The gearing for drag is SOOO useful for big burnouts from a standstill and drift due to it's super-close ratios (well, my ones are anyway!! ;)). So I have no problems with going sideways with any of my cars Fluke, I love fishtailing my puppies up and down the track. 👍 I just prefer to take the ballast out though for better drifts. ;)

40oz, I'm a FF fan as it was the only drag category a beginner like myself could get into back then. After getting good times with various cars, I started getting times in FR, AWD, etc. because a lot of the records are long standing records and harder to attain. I'm glad I'm the fastest rotor owner on here in the FR's and that time can drop more because I wasn't expecting to do as well in that category. :D Since then, there's been 5 new categories put up there so more people can get their names put up in lights.

Believe it or not, the drag setup's have helped me a lot when it comes to making slower cars keep up with the bigger hp monsters when it came to Tuner Cups.
 

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