Race Car Question

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crdhockey
I have a question about the race cars I have in the game. I own a Audi R10 TDI A Jaguar XJ-R 9 (DLC) And a Peugeot 908. All three of them seem to be the most difficult cars to drive. Even gently feathering the throttle mid turn throws me into a instant donut :grumpy: I understand that his occurs because there is a massive about of horsepower going to the rear wheels on a very light weight car. But it seems like every thread I read about these cars, people are saying how great these cars handle but its not the same for me. Is there something I'm doing wrong, is it my driving style? I am a level 31 ASPEC and a level 24 B SPEC so I'm not new to this game haha. Its never happened to me on any other car so could someone please help me?
 
What aides do you use? Maybe you should try with the skid recovery aide to help with the spinning out. Its also good to know the cars slipping point where the wheels start to slip. Another trick is to be in a higher gear than what flashes, sometimes its too low and your rpm is too high, this will cause slippage as your rear wheels are spinning too much on throttle.

Good luck.
 
You should lower your LSD settings.. I mean really lower them. Use manual transmission and put yourself in a higher gear while you are cornering then put yourself back into the correct gear when you are exiting the corner. You should also play around with gear ratios and make the lower gears longer. Also raising your Toe angles could help.
And the most important setting of all......practice :)
 
Drop the HP to like 50% and start doing laps. Then raise the HP a bit when you've got a hold on how it handles.
 
I suspect you may have overcooked the tires (while braking) before the turn and the minimal throttle spins your car. Next time this happens, check if your tires are red or almost before the throttle or after you apply throttle.

I usually use race tires on these high powered car. I used to use SRF but have weaned myself off it.

Practice driving with sports hard or comfort soft on non race cars and you will realise many rwd cars behaves similarly.
 
Go to the tuning forum and search for a tune for each of the cars. I suggest Praiano's tunes. The cars will be easier to drive.
 
Don't be afraid to use a little traction control either. ALMS allows the use of it so you should take advantage of it too.

I'll admit that I'll even use a little traction control on the LMP cars as well. It is very easy to spin a LMP car but with a good LSD setup and TC set to 1 or 2 and feathering the throttle should help keep LMP cars pointed in the right direction.
 
Yeah as Eric W said, try to use TCS and slowly turn it off to learn trottle control. SRF is a way too however SRF is not realistic and gives you too many amount of grip to be really enjoyable (at least for me). SRF + racing soft feels like all car are on rail and kinda spoil the fun. TCS is way better if you want a sim, if you prefer an arcade feel, go for SRF.
 
lowering the LSD settings will definitely help since most stock LSD settings are way to high. Like redpartyhat said, using the manual transmission to shift up a gear to lower revs can help you manage wheelspin.
 
I usually like to keep TCS off completely, I am willing to raise it though. so you suggest to shift up a gear mid corner and then downshift on the way out ill try that. so i guess i'll be doing some tuning :). I found 2 tunes last night when i posted this question, one had very high LCD settings, and one had them at the minimum. I tried both and i still had a similar result. I will try these all of your and let you know how i did.

And does anyone suggest a specific track to test cars on? i currently just take my cars around the Nurby 24HR layout, is there a better test track?
 
F1 tracks (suzuka, Spa, Fuji, Nurb GP) are the best track to test Le Mans style car I think. Nurburgring is too extreme for that kind of car, that's why there's no more race on that track. My point of view, lots of people here will say the Nurburgring is ok but I think it's just too long to really test a car same goes for la Sarthe.

Even suzuka might be a bit extreme, but if you can run you car in suzuka you can usually run it everywhere else.
 
I will try some of those tracks thank you guys. And an update, i dropped the LCD to the lowest settings and saw a great improvement. I also tried the shifting technique you guys suggested and that also helped. but i still have the same issue where i punch the gas after i exit the turn and once i hit the rev limiter on gear 3, i spin out. i tried to make the gear ratios longer but i have a question. Is the bigger the number the shorter the ratio, or vise versa? could someone help me with that.
 
Don't punch the gas. LMP cars are light and have a lot of power so it is easy to break the tail end loose. You also may want to increase your downforce.
 
I have a bit of a differing opinion on the LSD. You can't just drop the LSD to 5/5/5 and truly solve the problem. With these high HP, high downforce fast race cars, optimizing the LSD becomes so much more important. You need to learn what the LSD really does in GT5. The LSD Guide Summary link in my signature below is a good thread to read. You really only need to read the opening post.

LSD on these cars are super important. LSD accel controls right/left balance of the drive wheels when you get back on the throttle. You want to set it so that both drive wheels spin at the same time. If the inside tire turns red under acceleration, then raise the accel number. If the outside tire turns red then lower the accel number. If both turn red at exactly the same time, then accel is optimized. If neither tire turns red, but the car is still spinning out, put on harder tires like race hards or sport hards. Sometimes one wheel will actually be breaking loose, but not enough to turn the tire red.

LSD Decel should be set only to help a car from spinning out while entering a corner. On most 450PP and lower street cars, I set decel to the lowest, 5. With more powerful cars (550PP to 650PP) I find that I am creaping up more in the range of 7 to 12 decel. With these LMP based race cars, some of them need more, even up to the 25 range. It all depends upon whether the car is hard to control under braking and turn in. Want more turning ability on corner entry, lower the number. Want more stability entering the corner, raise the number.

LSD Initial - This is a tricky setting and there is much debate in the tuning community on what this really does. I think that it is an engagement setting, meaning that it controls when the LSD locks and unlocks depending upon how much engine torque is applied. If you want the diff to lock quickly, run a lower number. This can also cause an unstable condition under braking as the diff also unlocks quickly. Plus, it can cause a snap loose condition as the diff locks quickly upon throttle application. I run low numbers (around 10) on 400PP to 550PP cars. When I get up around 600PP or 650P I run around 15 initial torque. On the FGT, the F1s and these LMP race cars I am finding that higher numbers are paying off more. I am in the 20 to 35 range on these race cars. It just seems to smooth out the transitions. It's a balance between stability and turning ability. If you want a more agressively turning car, lower the number and for a more stable car, raise the number.

Even after you have optimized the LSD, you may still get wheel spin in these cars, but both rear wheels will spin at the same time and it will become more predictable. I have two more suggestions. First is that it is o.k. to run TCS on these cars. I like TCS at one. Watch the throttle indicator. Part of it turns red as the TCS engages. Try to modulate your throttle input to have as little of that bar turning red as possible. This is how you will train yourself to have better throttle control. Plus, TCS at one is a little bit of a safety net, without killing too much acceleration, especially if driving with a controller.

Second suggestion is to work on the gearbox. Do the slider trick an try to make 1st and 2nd gears as low a number as possible. Move final drive to highest number, top speed to lowest number, adjust 1st and 2nd to lowest possible then space 3rd through 6th evenly. Lastly reset the final drive number to have the car almost hit the rev limiter at the end of the longest straight. Never, ever touch the top speed setting again after doing the slider trick. It will mess with the ratios. If you always use the final drive setting to attaing the rev limit at the end of the straight, you'll be in good shape.
 
Thanks to all of you, I know love my cars! using the tunes and techniques you all suggested I am very good at driving my LMP's. I beat like the wind in my Peugeot with no problem and i am panning on doing the Indy 500 with my R10. Thanks all of you for the help!
 
Good advice regarding LSD and throttle techniques. Just thought I'd add that accelerator control is sort of possible with the ds3. If you partly press the button it will partly open the throttle. It's not exactly precise but allows you to hold speed until the corner opens up and you can then push all the way.
I don't recommend SRF as it is unrealistic but ASM makes a huge difference as it is real traction control that even uses engine breaking to slow you down if necessary (provided you are off the power), and won't feed power to a wheel thats about to spin. It's a bit of a cheat but not as bad as SRF, and makes up for struggling with a ds3 instead of a wheel and pedals.

Edit: you need to set TCS and ABS to at least 1 to use ASM.
 
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