Race Cars and Rear Tire Wear

  • Thread starter Thread starter Sier_Pinski
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There's no way to escape rear tire wear on LMPs. A lot of horsepower and low weight means that as you go full throttle you'll have a lot of tire wear, and you have to go full throttle with so many straight-line accelerations. There's a reason why they're called racecars.

If you're getting 10 laps then you can ignore everyone telling you to be careful with your throttle, you're not going to get more except perhaps one in the 908 and the Bentley. Even they AI doesn't get more than 10 or 11 laps depending on the car, and they go extremely slow in the corners and have super high TC. Go as fast as you can and pit when you need to, over the whole race you only lose time if you go slow on purpose in order to conserve tires.

Don't worry about speed, every LMP can win the race. Even if it seems hard at first, the longer the race progresses the more comfortable you get and the faster you go. My fastest lap in the race was lap 330 and it was about 1 second faster than my best fresh oil-lap at the start of the race (and I thought I was pretty quick before the race).
 
Use a "stock" lmp, dont f-up the beauty of this machines with adding those stupid custom turbochargers.

Be gentle on the throttle, Im doing the 24h too, using a stock R10. I never give full throttle in the first 3 gears. After 7 laps my rear tires are at 60% and fronts at 70%. I change tires after 9 laps because the lap times get to slow (mid 30s) as the wear increases (after a certain point the wear on the rear tires increases because the grip level is too low, which causes loss of traction).

The car is able to do 11 lap stints without running out of fuel. Currently im at 6 hours, maybe with some more hours I will be able to do a complete stint on one set of tires.

btw: Dont buy this "put harder tires on the rear" bs. There is no difference between drop off in the tire compounds. The racing soft will last as long as your racing hards.

And beware of using group c cars!
 
👍 to what alonsof1fan91 said. I also did it in a stock R10, premium open cockpit is the only way to fly. :sly:
 
Yeah, the R10 is just epic. The HDI FAP is maybe faster (+ for me its more epic to drive in the closed cockpit), but its high beams just doesn`t work and I dont want to drive for about 8 hours totally blind.

Both cars sound epic, both cars can do similar lap times stock, but the R10 destroys its rear tires a bit faster.
 
alonsof1fan91
Use a "stock" lmp, dont f-up the beauty of this machines with adding those stupid custom turbochargers.

Be gentle on the throttle, Im doing the 24h too, using a stock R10. I never give full throttle in the first 3 gears. After 7 laps my rear tires are at 60% and fronts at 70%. I change tires after 9 laps because the lap times get to slow (mid 30s) as the wear increases (after a certain point the wear on the rear tires increases because the grip level is too low, which causes loss of traction).

The car is able to do 11 lap stints without running out of fuel. Currently im at 6 hours, maybe with some more hours I will be able to do a complete stint on one set of tires.

btw: Dont buy this "put harder tires on the rear" bs. There is no difference between drop off in the tire compounds. The racing soft will last as long as your racing hards.

And beware of using group c cars!
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so they dont fixed the tire wear from soft-hard-medium ? that sucks
 
I just finished this race last night using the Audi R8 Race Car '01. Zero mods and zero tuning. Rained for about 18 of my 24 hours and won easily by 4 laps. In the dry conditions (what little i had) i was still quicker with racing hards over the field.
 
alonsof1fan91
Yeah, the R10 is just epic. The HDI FAP is maybe faster (+ for me its more epic to drive in the closed cockpit), but its high beams just doesn`t work and I dont want to drive for about 8 hours totally blind.

Both cars sound epic, both cars can do similar lap times stock, but the R10 destroys its rear tires a bit faster.
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Low beams work just fine on the Pug.

And I disagree about not turbo-ing an LMP car. To me they add a bit of a challenge of handling a rocket with added boosters.

Besides, in real life, these cars can go a lot more than the stock power in qualifying.

And I think the Audi is better on the rear tires than the 908.
 
Like someone said before, just use a stock car. The AI will do 10 - 11 laps on a set of tyres but the last 3 laps are shocking (3:40+). So you really needn't worry about doing anything close to that number of laps.

I did it on a stock CC-88 (Toyota) pitting every 6 laps. Yes that is almost twice as many stops but here is the formula (works for completely dry races on a cc-88) :
1. Your lap times should be around 3:30. The Ai does 3:34 on its best lap and 3:48 on its out lap.
2. Put 55l of fuel on each pitstop. The whole pitstop will cost you 1 minute.
3. Use racing hards
4. Your in lap should be ~4:25 and your out lap <3:40

Using this formula you will be coming out of the pits behind them until around lap 62 when you will start coming out in 1st place permanently. Then it is just a matter of slowly building the lead by being very consistent. You'll finish 4-5 laps ahead.


I have also done 17 hours in non stop rain (until the PS3 was accidentally turned off ;-(). Now that is a much easier race as the AI sucks in the rain:
1. Pit every 11 laps.
2. Use Racing intermediates
3. Your lap times should be 4:00 - 4:05. The ai does 4:10 or so.

Using this stragegy I was 5 laps ahead by lap 258...
 
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