Raceroom wheel settings

  • Thread starter mister dog
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mister dog

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misterdog
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Seeing there's a gazillion FFB and wheel options in R3R, you can either get it right or get hopelessly lost. So that's why this thread was born! I spend an entire evening dialing everything in and now i am confident i got the feel just right.

Please mention your wheel, on wheel settings and i think the easiest way to post the ingame settings is to take a couple of pics with your phone:

My wheel: Fanatec CSR, on wheel settings FFB and Sho 100 everything else off or on 0.
Ingame rotation and rotation in the driver are set at 900 + damper in driver is 100%.

Edit, new settings in this post:

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/raceroom-wheel-settings.326462/#post-11337131
 
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My settings

- Steering wheel T300RS with following drivers settings: top to bottom

General Force 65%
Constant 100% - Returning 100%
Spring: 0% - Damping: 0%

Selfcentrating: - by the game

Wheel rotation 340°

- R3E settings:

2015-04-08 1451 0002.jpg 2015-04-08 1451 0003.jpg 2015-04-08 1451 0004.jpg 2015-04-08 1451 0005.jpg

1) All modern cars (Adac GT, GT3, WTCC, GTR2, Radical,...) i change ingame at car settings to wheel rotation 360° with a steeringlock to my liking, depending on the car but this is almost always around 18. This can be higher or lower depending on the track and feeling.

2) DTM14 i use 300° wheel rotation with lock 20 or 1 higher/lower depending on track and feeling

3) OldSchool cars i use 540 and lock around 18 depending on track and feeling.
 
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Hi guys.

Got a little question. What does the rotation lock do?

Thanks in advance.

The higher the lock the less you have to steer to get lock and more sensitive your turning is close to the center of the steer.
The lower the lock the more you have to steer to get lock and less sensitive your turning is closer to the center of the steer.

The wheel rotation is the degree your steer can make before it blocks.

This is my interpretation of it :)

Grtz
 
I'm really liking the feel at the moment. After the huge new patch I reset my controller settings, and for the T500 I simply dropped filtering from 25%-0% and overall FFB from 100%-60% (plus removed the motor and road rumble). It's feeling really nice now.
 
I have a CSW V2 and have followed settings from this forum as well as RRE forum and really like the ffb but there are classes like the DTM 92 that feels like it is clipping and then there are the WTCC's that feel like no ffb while racing down the main straights. So what is the main setting to change on the fly to lower or raise the ffb when it feels like clipping or no ffb?

Is it just the FF 0-100 or FOR 0-150?
 
I have a CSW V2 and have followed settings from this forum as well as RRE forum and really like the ffb but there are classes like the DTM 92 that feels like it is clipping and then there are the WTCC's that feel like no ffb while racing down the main straights. So what is the main setting to change on the fly to lower or raise the ffb when it feels like clipping or no ffb?

Is it just the FF 0-100 or FOR 0-150?
I would opt for FF intensity..
 
sounds like you ticked "reversed forces" or something like that.
yeah i did, alot of people told me to so...... but i fixed it. Its not much use to me anyway as this game looks like a potato on my pc and only runs at like 25fps!
 
Here are my current settings for the Fanatec CSR after the latest update, really feels great once you adjust the individual FFB multiplier per car to your liking:

Edit: For most cars i need to lower the cars individual FFB slider (located in car setup/steering settings) from - 0,300 to - 1,000 so please take that into account otherwise the wheel will feel stiff to turn. Maybe i need to lower the main FFB intensity slider, or steering rack settings but i'm not sure so i just settle for this way.


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