Racing Brake kit = no difference!

  • Thread starter Thread starter NurburgRay
  • 47 comments
  • 6,398 views
It is much harder to notice a difference if you are playing with a controller and just mashing the button if you ease in the button and pay attention to the little red brake bar you will see some difference, if you drive with ABS off you will see some difference and if you drive with pressure sensitive pedals you will feel some difference.

In general though heat does not seem to be a factor and heat is the biggest reason you need the larger racing brakes and standard brakes will overheat and loose the ability to effectively stop the car as they get hotter
 
There is a definite difference in overall braking power between stock and racing brakes in all cases I've tried. That's without ABS. It's much easier to lock up with the racing brakes, which is annoying, because they do look good...

I've not noticed any fade of any kind, either.
 
The brake kits on my track car are definatly make the car stop faster than their Original brakes...
brake fading can only be prevented if you installed steel brake *dont know the correct english word..* hoses?
You get fading becouse your brake fluid is boiling, so the standard brake "hoses" are expanding =air =fading..
No matter what brakes you install, if you dont replace the brake "hoses" they will Always fade

You seem to be confused about a few points. Brake fade occurs when the brake pad temperature exceeds the designed operating range. Hence, race pads have higher temperature ranges than street pads. True brake fade is when you press on the pedal and nothing seems to happen, ie - it takes a lot longer to get the car slowed.

Brake fluid boiling is a secondary effect of hot pads and calipers. When the fluid boils, you get small air bubbles inside the brake lines. Brake fluid is incompressible; air, on the other hand, is a compressible fluid. This means when you press on the pedal after boiling your brake fluid, a large percentage of the applied force goes into compressing those air bubbles instead of pressing the brake pads against the rotors.

Lastly, the stainless brake lines to which you refer, do absolutely nothing to prevent pad overheating or fluid boiling. They DO, however, expand less than rubber brake lines. Rubber lines that expand under pressure essentially act as a fluid reservoir, meaning you end up with a "squishy" brake pedal that must be depressed farther as the line expands and holds more fluid. With stainless brake lines, you don't have nearly as much line expansion, which eliminates the "reservoir effect", granting a much firmer pedal and more direct feedback through the braking system.

I'm not trying to be confrontational or call you out. Just wanted to correct a bit of misinformation out there and hopefully help you to better understand cars. Cheers! :)
 
T500 here with basher brake mod.
I notice a big difference with them on every car I have installed them on.
I always run ABS 0, BB adjusted (not default), no driving aids unless forced.

It might be helpful if people list type of controller, aids used, ABS setting.
 
Some misinformation about brake fade in here. the feel of brake fade comes from a couple of places.

Yes, rubber lines expand and braided lines can help give a firmer feel all around. That's not fade though.

Overheating fluid can cause brake fade in a way. When the fluid boils, it takes more pedal travel to get the same braking performance because you compress the air in the lines easier than fluid. Fluid boils due to heat.

True brake fade is due to overheating of the friction material itself, not the fluid. Different materials have different heat tolerances. Street pads can easily glaze over and lose friction with extended track use, causing fade. Race pads and race parts like carbon ceramic rotors deal with heat a lot better, so that's what you see on Le Mans cars and such.

Heat is where large calipers/pads/rotors come in. With more surface available for braking, and the more area available for cooling, the better the brakes dissipate heat. Calipers get bigger to hold bigger pads that spread heat out. Larger rotors also spread out heat and give more surface for heat dissipation.

A BBK can increase braking performance, but only as far as your tires will let it. Running all-season touring tires (comforts in GT) with a BBK is useless as you will overcome the friction of the tires before the full braking performance is reached. However, with sticky tires it starts to make a difference, especially over time. Heat sill builds up in the brakes and fade happens, no matter the tires or full braking performance available. So, while a car may be able to lock up tires at the track on lap 3, on lap 20 it may be a different story as the braking capacity changes due to heat.

How this plays in the GT6 ... I don't know. But that's what a real BBK does.


Spot on here 👍

I had the brakes in my Evo1 overheat when I first got it after thrashing it round some back roads.

Very scary coming up to a "T" intersection and the peddle hit the floor :scared:

Replaced the fluid, pads, rotors and hoses with better quality parts.

You would have to really be pushing it on the track to get the brakes to drop off after that.
 
I have experienced brake fade IRL to the point that it was almost impossible to stop the car. Both feet hard on the pedal and the car still hardly slowing much less stopping.

Here in the mountains the old drum brakes were/are bad about overheating and loosing your stopping power not to mention what happens when you get them wet ;)

It can be quite scary and dangerous when it catches you by surprise. I have never had an issue with Disc brakes on the road other than the time I busted a rotor and the pads fell off but that's another subject.
 
I have experienced brake fade IRL to the point that it was almost impossible to stop the car. Both feet hard on the pedal and the car still hardly slowing much less stopping.

Here in the mountains the old drum brakes were/are bad about overheating and loosing your stopping power not to mention what happens when you get them wet ;)

It can be quite scary and dangerous when it catches you by surprise. I have never had an issue with Disc brakes on the road other than the time I busted a rotor and the pads fell off but that's another subject.

I was a passenger in a mid 80s Ford F150 (automatic) coming down a very long and steep logging road here in BC, and my stupid friend (we were 17 at the time) was simply riding the brakes, with the transmission in drive, instead of 1. Needless to say, slightly over half way down the mountain, he got complete brake fade and he had to drive the truck into the ditch to save us. Luckily we weren't going that fast to start with. It is a very scary feeling to be rolling down a hill with no brakes :lol:
 
So they really change them on the visual model? Anyone have a comparison screenshot handy?
Peugeot RCZ stock brakes:

11578571365_2d58e24624_c.jpg


Peugeot RCZ with brake kit installed:

11578902304_8b0214fd54_c.jpg


On standard cars too: (hard to see but they are there)

11578789893_fb3f637ac9_b.jpg
 
Peugeot RCZ stock brakes:

11578571365_2d58e24624_c.jpg


Peugeot RCZ with brake kit installed:

11578902304_8b0214fd54_c.jpg


On standard cars too: (hard to see but they are there)

11578789893_fb3f637ac9_b.jpg
Does it use same size calipers front and rear when you upgrade the brakes? If it does, I wonder if this is related to the rear wheel width bug encountered when fitting custom wheels?
 
Does it use same size calipers front and rear when you upgrade the brakes? If it does, I wonder if this is related to the rear wheel width bug encountered when fitting custom wheels?
I think only the rotors are changed in the rear.
 
Back