Raptor Live Tune - RUF Yellow Bird '87

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Flsurffisher
First shot at a tune from scratch. Live as it happens. Comments, suggestions welcome. Using an online room. After oil change 525pp 501hp 1311kg 48:52 weight distribution. FR drive, 504ft lb 2.61 kg/hp. Sport soft. Adjusted brakes 8/6. Probably need to reduce to 7/5 or 6/4.

Added Adjustable suspension, dog clutch, LSD. Started tuning on Apricot Hill. Too many banking turns so switched to Nurb GP/F.

1) Bought & Installed Racing breaks. Tested on first turn which is slightly at an angle. Set to 6/5 but didn't hit the spot I like just before the rumble strip. Set to 7/6 and got it.

Going to add before & after time trial videos:
 
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2) Lowering the car. Went down to 70/65 (min being 60) took a couple laps and looked at the replay to see if I was throwing sparks. Not. Car is not nearly as maneuverable. And I've only taken a little of the oversteer on acceleration out. Next working on roll bars then LSD.
 
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3) Set the rear roll bar down to 1 from 3. Since the rear of the car is most pronounced to changes in oversteer. Which is the main problem.
 
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Adjusted spring rate hopefully to be tighter for sport softs and to generate more understeer. 7/9.75
 
Changed brake bias to 7/8. Came down the first stretched braked at my normal point and over shot it.
 
You picked a tough car for your first tune. I suggest something else.

Yeah, but I've started and have made some progress. I can feel the difference in the car. I can feel it's pointed in the right direction. Just have to keep expanding my knowledge and keep working it. This car I believe has a ton of potential to be a tough competitor. Want to see it to the completion. I do have Scaffs PDF part I and II.
 
Picking it up again: Car still wants to oversteer when accelerating out of a turn. Added 50kg of balast and moved it all the way forward to get a 50:50 weight distribution. Going to attempt to tweak oversteer out by increasing understeer values a little at a time.
 
Adjusted spring rate to 10//8. That was giving me too wide a turn radius. Backed it off to 9/7 and that seems to be closer. Still a tad wide. By the way it handles in a turn it seems I'm not getting enough rubber in contact with the road. Here's one area I think it hard: Toe & camber.
 
This is a cool idea, but as I started reading through the thread I was hoping to see more description behind the effects of each change that you made. Many of the posts read that you made a change, then the next post is just another change. What did each change do. Again, this is a really cool idea. Would just be cool to hear more about what each change did (or did not do).

Props for thinking of this.
 
Its in the ball park. Currently. I tested the Jag XJR and am realizing part of it is just sport tires.
 
For that kind of car, i suggest front higher than rear and stiffer spring on front, same ext/comp on rear.

RR are NOT easy cars to setup.
 
You picked a tough car for your first tune. I suggest something else.

I raced 550pp (RS) online on the Nur 24 hour track layout this past week, and while the host and other best drivers were finishing a consistent 8:05~8:08 in their BMW M5 '08's , or a Corvette C6, (I usually best 8:25~8:30s as my other choice cars aren't tuned nor have I played since May of last year),

along comes a Cobra '66 , and destroys them with a 7:58s finish.
 
For that kind of car, i suggest front higher than rear and stiffer spring on front, same ext/comp on rear.

RR are NOT easy cars to setup.

Not so sure about the LSD. Right now 50/50/20. Don't have a problem with Decel stabilization. Do have a problem still with Accel Oversteer. Not as severe as it was; but it's still there. On top of that had been experiencing two issues:

1st - Car can't handle the accel on the Shumacker straight on Nurg GP/F. Will get spin accelerating.
2nd - Long straight with slight right curve car was losing traction at the turn. Move my front camber out 2 degrees and it appears to be coming under control.


I raced 550pp (RS) online on the Nur 24 hour track layout this past week, and while the host and other best drivers were finishing a consistent 8:05~8:08 in their BMW M5 '08's , or a Corvette C6, (I usually best 8:25~8:30s as my other choice cars aren't tuned nor have I played since May of last year),

along comes a Cobra '66 , and destroys them with a 7:58s finish.

The car is wicked! I have it set at 525pp and it's acceleration is amazing in a straight. If I can only get it to handle corner exit better it would be a champ!
 
In GT5 i could use 7/5/5 LSD for cars like the yellowbird or the zonda...

édit - longest low gears helps, too
 
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I raced 550pp (RS) online on the Nur 24 hour track layout this past week, and while the host and other best drivers were finishing a consistent 8:05~8:08 in their BMW M5 '08's , or a Corvette C6, (I usually best 8:25~8:30s as my other choice cars aren't tuned nor have I played since May of last year),

along comes a Cobra '66 , and destroys them with a 7:58s finish.


I think that might have been me (spanish guy in a black Cobra), I remember that race because the host kicked me right after it for no apparent reason. The car is unbelievable at 550pp with RS tires and with a little throttle control it out-accelerates anything coming out of the corners, and it's surprisingly stable under heavy braking too.


I haven't tuned it for sport softs but I would recommend lowering the brakes. I use 2-1 and that's with racing tires so I figure 7-8 is way too high for sport softs, racing brakes are so strong in road cars. At least with a wheel, I don't know if they behave differently on DS3.
Also, raising the rear ride height seems to get rid of the oversteer, it has worked for me in every single car I've tuned.
 
I think that might have been me (spanish guy in a black Cobra), I remember that race because the host kicked me right after it for no apparent reason. The car is unbelievable at 550pp with RS tires and with a little throttle control it out-accelerates anything coming out of the corners, and it's surprisingly stable under heavy braking too.


I haven't tuned it for sport softs but I would recommend lowering the brakes. I use 2-1 and that's with racing tires so I figure 7-8 is way too high for sport softs, racing brakes are so strong in road cars. At least with a wheel, I don't know if they behave differently on DS3.
Also, raising the rear ride height seems to get rid of the oversteer, it has worked for me in every single car I've tuned.

Hello Claudiorz, yes I believe it was indeed you, thank you for the tips! excellent job, there were holy ***** comments at your race finish. hehe.
you were kicked? that is very unfortunate, but the room was already glitched and people were getting disconnects that day. The host is a fair person (Mr. White) and only kicks those who drive unclean, or break rules, or are not courteous drivers.

do you still have that replay? unfortunately, my old PS3 is no more, and I had to re-install my game to new PS3 yesterday :(
 
Hello Claudiorz, yes I believe it was indeed you, thank you for the tips! excellent job, there were holy ***** comments at your race finish. hehe.
you were kicked? that is very unfortunate, but the room was already glitched and people were getting disconnects that day. The host is a fair person (Mr. White) and only kicks those who drive unclean, or break rules, or are not courteous drivers.

do you still have that replay? unfortunately, my old PS3 is no more, and I had to re-install my game to new PS3 yesterday :(


I have the replay, but my PS3 keeps freezing when I try to play it :irked:. I can send it to you if you'd like, maybe your PS3 won't freeze.
 
I think that might have been me (spanish guy in a black Cobra), I remember that race because the host kicked me right after it for no apparent reason. The car is unbelievable at 550pp with RS tires and with a little throttle control it out-accelerates anything coming out of the corners, and it's surprisingly stable under heavy braking too.


I haven't tuned it for sport softs but I would recommend lowering the brakes. I use 2-1 and that's with racing tires so I figure 7-8 is way too high for sport softs, racing brakes are so strong in road cars. At least with a wheel, I don't know if they behave differently on DS3.
Also, raising the rear ride height seems to get rid of the oversteer, it has worked for me in every single car I've tuned.

You got the specs on your tune with RS tires? I could "hopefully" back track from there. Raising the rear height? I'll give it a shot, but isn't that backwards to the way it should work?

In GT5 i could use 7/5/5 LSD for cars like the yellowbird or the zonda...

édit - longest low gears helps, too
Thought about the long low gears. Haven't learned my gearing yet. Gotta a link to a how too? Thanks!

I have the replay, but my PS3 keeps freezing when I try to play it :irked:. I can send it to you if you'd like, maybe your PS3 won't freeze.

Send it to me I'll watch it.
 
Decided I'm going to experiment with the settings of each component. Getting the feeling I don't have the WHOLE picture because some of what I read wasn't the real deal. Therefore, going to go to extremes on both ends high & Low to feel for myself what the effects of each change would be. I gotta learn to tune if I'm going to enjoy the cars. Cause certain ones REALLY need tuning.
 
Gearing, sorry I can't help. To have a smoother LSD, try the standard clutch. I forgot this thing from GT5, too.

edit - I think I will take your idea and make a "live" thread, too :)
 
Just my own opinion here, but jumping straight to extreme settings is unlikely to give you a clear picture of what's happening.

My suggestion is to set everything to default values and run a few laps. Then make a single small change and run some more laps. See how the change you made affected the handling. Does it feel better or worse. Keep playing with small changes to that same setting until you find what feels best, then move on to another setting and repeat the process. Once you've gone through all the settings like this go back to the first one and double check that where you settled on still feels best. Then work through the rest of the settings the same way looking to balance all of them.
Yes this will take a lot of time on the first few tunes you do, but as you become more familiar with how different settings interact with each other and the various cars you'll start to get a feel for it and be able to zero in on better baseline settings for other cars quicker.
I know a lot of people like to crunch numbers and be able to say yeah here's a formula, just plug the numbers in and bingo you've got a solution. So far I've not found one that works well for me in either GT5 or GT6. So instead it becomes more of an art form just working on trial and error.

Best of wishes in your tuning endevours, very glad to see others taking an interest in the tuning side of the game.:cheers:
 
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