Realistic Driving Settings

  • Thread starter Goshin2568
  • 59 comments
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I've always wanted this. An option for "realistic. You tell the game your setup (wheel, clutch, H-gate, etc) and it sets everything to super realistic.

If the car has a clutch, you have to use it. If it has paddle shifters, you have to use them. If it has 270* steering, you use that. If it has 900* wheel, you use that.

If it has ABS on, you use it. If it has a certain level of TCS, you have to use it, etc.

I would definitely use this mode. It would be awesome. The majority of stock cars don't have different TCS settings, so it is what it is. This would make car buying decisions different.

Maybe one of the things you could buy for the car would be a new ECU to up the rev limiter, or a new TCS so you could disable or adjust it, or a new ABS module so you could adjust or disable, etc.

👍 My brother and friends and I play a season, just as your post describe its the best I was think about creating a hardcore league Ill give you a little desription on how we did it in FM3

I will give a small description on how the season is going for me. I started out with a 350Z it was my best friend. My upgrades consist of Tein Mono Flex, Bridgestone RE-11 Tires( will give you the exact tire size when i get home, and a set of Nismo wheels( the FIKSE wheels that looked like the Nismo so i went with that) that took a lot of time and hard work to get but like i said, when one upgrades their car its the best feeling. We look up real parts and base the parts off of real information.

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One evil day, however turned my life around i was racing against my bro evo coming down a straight and i tried to out brake him, but my stock brakes suck( wanted to upgrade the brakes but its so much money lol) My brakes kinda locked up and i went flying into some tires this was the end result

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My car was DONE engine damage, transmission damage, and i damage my right front side of the suspension. I was so sad man because unlike just fixing it up like people normally do while playing Forza3 i had no money to fix it. So i automatically had to downgrade to a D car. Now my bros and friend laugh at me because their cars are faster and better.

We play hardcore, I make all my bros look up real parts and email them to me. If you want to take off ABS and other electronic devices you have to buy a EMU/ECU. I might do this for my hardcore GT fans.
 
I didn't say it was required to play the game. It's an option, like Pro physics used to be.

And it's not exactly easy for me to go find all that information, most of which isn't even available.

You think there's a list somewhere that says the GT-R should be set to ABS 2 and TCS 7 in order to mimic the real car.

How do I know where to set it? I've never driven a real GT-R, so I have no idea what the real electronic aids are like on it.

Exactly. But most likely, at least for most of the cars, PD does.
 
Also being able to turn abs off isn't real at all ! how many cars is that possible in.

  1. Open fuse-box
  2. Find fuse marked ABS
  3. Pull fuse
  4. ABS is now off

Real enough for you and it works on an amazingly large number of cars.

Disabling ABS on a road car is easy enough to do (I've done it on a number of occasions in the past), the real question would be why the hell would you want to.

In my case it was part of product launch training to demonstrate how effective ABS is and how it functions, but on the road you'd have to be plain daft to want to do it.


BTW - To those posting in here who are failing to use capital letters at the start of sentences, nouns and for single 'I's, just a quite reminder. The AUP does quite clearly state that this is a requirement when posting at GT Planet.

That would be the same AUP you all agreed to follow when you joined, so lets not see that kind of omission when you next post.


Thanks

Scaff
 
We've just gotten some good news, at least on the L2L front.

GT5 appears to be automatically setting the lock to lock of your wheel to whatever the car actually has. Someone with a DFGT reported the karts have about 180* steering, race cars 270*, street cars 900*, etc.

This is excellent, and will make racing different types of cars a different experience. So at least part of our hope seems to have been realized.
 
I agree, its like mercedes You can't turn off the tcs fully on any mercedes. Also being able to turn abs off isn't real at all ! how many cars is that possible in. the most laughable thing is that race cars would be quicker and would give better tyre wear with tcs if they were allowed to use it, GT seems to say the opposite !

You definitely can deactivate ANY device on ANY car in the world. You just take the fuse/circuit breaker off, and done.

This is the most pointless topic ever, anyway.
 
One option is to build a database/excel/googledocs/wiki with info on what the real cars have. Problem is that how do we know what setting is "correct" if we want to simulate it.
Any suggestions?

I say we leave things such as ABS, to 5 which is the middle for every car. When you purchase some type of ECU/EMS (hondata) ou can tune your electronic assist. TCS usaly can be turned off so we can have that @ 5 or off, I think ASM should be left on, but when you get an ecu you can switch it off.
 
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I think the problem is that the GT traction control system isn't actually trying to replicate real life systems. It really just works by cutting power when you loose grip.

On most cars, a driver would attempt to turn off TC at the track, it's just going to slow you down. Since the GTR/458 systems aren't modelled (correct me if thats wrong), its just better to turn it off.
 
You definitely can deactivate ANY device on ANY car in the world. You just take the fuse/circuit breaker off, and done.

This is the most pointless topic ever, anyway.

That is wrong. There are cars that the traction control is controlled by the ECU by retarding spark . There would be no way to disable that by pulling a fuse , unless of course you don't want the car to start.
 
We've just gotten some good news, at least on the L2L front.

GT5 appears to be automatically setting the lock to lock of your wheel to whatever the car actually has. Someone with a DFGT reported the karts have about 180* steering, race cars 270*, street cars 900*, etc.

This is excellent, and will make racing different types of cars a different experience. So at least part of our hope seems to have been realized.

wow.. now we´re talking.
 
That is wrong. There are cars that the traction control is controlled by the ECU by retarding spark . There would be no way to disable that by pulling a fuse , unless of course you don't want the car to start.

Even in that (rare) case, you still can work on the ECU or swap it. It does not retard the spark anyway, it cuts the fuel flow (in most of the cases), expecially on those engines where no sparkplugs are used.
 
Even in that (rare) case, you still can work on the ECU or swap it. It does not retard the spark anyway, it cuts the fuel flow (in most of the cases), expecially on those engines where no sparkplugs are used.
Maybe rare in your parts but it's not rare here .I've worked on them already. Other than the one that the ECU controls wheel spin by the ABS you cannot just pull the fuse on it because you will have to disable the ECU along with it or another vital system.
 
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Maybe rare in your parts but it's not rare here .I've worked on them already. Other than the one that the ECU controls wheel spin by the ABS you cannot just pull the fuse on it because you will have to disable the ECU along with it or another vital system.

No surprises if mechanics nowadays look pretty much more like computer technicians than like mechanics :)
However, I don't get the "spark retardment" concept. If you just shut down the mangnetos while flooring your car, when you set them on again you would most likely have the not-so-exhausted mixture ignited in the manifold and down through the muffler. Which is not a good thing, and I'm definitely not used to see family road cars spitting fire from the muffler. I might be completely wrong, but I've always thought that power cut was actuated by cutting the fuel.
 
No surprises if mechanics nowadays look pretty much more like computer technicians than like mechanics :)
However, I don't get the "spark retardment" concept. If you just shut down the mangnetos while flooring your car, when you set them on again you would most likely have the not-so-exhausted mixture ignited in the manifold and down through the muffler. Which is not a good thing, and I'm definitely not used to see family road cars spitting fire from the muffler. I might be completely wrong, but I've always thought that power cut was actuated by cutting the fuel.

It's been a while so I will try my best to explain it . Retarding the timing doesn't shut it down it just makes it happen later . Lets say the spark in a car goes off at 6 degrees before TDC (top-dead-center) retarding the timing will make it go off at ,lets say, 1 degree AFTER TDC as the piston is on it's way down .

Here's an example . Lets say your punching a punching bag. As it is swinging towards you, you give it a really good punch . When you do that you get a good impact and it goes flying back right? That's advanced timing . Retarding the timing will be like punching the bag as it is swinging away from you so you don't get a really good impact . You still get a full good swing it just doesn't have the same impact as it did before .

Ideally you want the spark to go off a bit before it reaches TDC so when the piston does reach the top of the compression stroke the ignited gasses are starting to expand at that same time and push it back down for the power stroke .
 
It's been a while so I will try my best to explain it . Retarding the timing doesn't shut it down it just makes it happen later . Lets say the spark in a car goes off at 6 degrees before TDC (top-dead-center) retarding the timing will make it go off at ,lets say, 1 degree AFTER TDC as the piston is on it's way down .

Here's an example . Lets say your punching a punching bag. As it is swinging towards you, you give it a really good punch . When you do that you get a good impact and it goes flying back right? That's advanced timing . Retarding the timing will be like punching the bag as it is swinging away from you so you don't get a really good impact . You still get a full good swing it just doesn't have the same impact as it did before .

Ideally you want the spark to go off a bit before it reaches TDC so when the piston does reach the top of the compression stroke the ignited gasses are starting to expand at that same time and push it back down for the power stroke .

Thanks for the punch ball explanation, it's awesome :bowdown:. In the next class is due to explain valve lead and overlapping so make sure you got another cool example for that.
 
Agree with the OP. I really want the cars to be like they are in real life and have their advantages/disadvantages. Default settings should be whatever the car has in real life (maybe set to race mode - makes sense) PLUS a global option of what control type you're using. If gamepad, make it easier, if wheel, make it realistic and use H shifter or paddles by default depending on what the car has.

To me this should be the default options which people can then change. What we've had in GT in the past hasn't portrayed the differences in cars well enough at all... even simple things like AWD vs RWD aren't anywhere near real with the default "standard" settings which most people who play the game (with a controller) use. It does look like GT5 will improve on this front, but I still think adjusting aids to the same on all cars isn't a good solution for realism.
 
This thread really got me thinking if I should spent money on a PS3 just to get this game :/ I really really hoped for it to be realistic and therefore I would also buy wheel/pedals
 
Very nice post OP, I myself would like to drive my RL car in GT5 on nurburgring. I really wish they did have an option to have stock settings, makes you really wonder HOW accurate the physics really is...
 
I think the problem is that the GT traction control system isn't actually trying to replicate real life systems. It really just works by cutting power when you loose grip.

On most cars, a driver would attempt to turn off TC at the track, it's just going to slow you down. Since the GTR/458 systems aren't modelled (correct me if thats wrong), its just better to turn it off.

Well that's exactly my point. They should've been!
 
We've just gotten some good news, at least on the L2L front.

GT5 appears to be automatically setting the lock to lock of your wheel to whatever the car actually has. Someone with a DFGT reported the karts have about 180* steering, race cars 270*, street cars 900*, etc.

This is excellent, and will make racing different types of cars a different experience. So at least part of our hope seems to have been realized.

Best news so far 👍
 
I was under the impression that the ABS and TCS levels that is on the car when you buy it, is what it is at stock?
 
Good call but that's very difficult to implement given the large amount of data for each individual car. I drive an 08 Subaru Impreza STi in RL and I have the ability to select, VDC ON/Steering only - no throttle input/OFF mode, then I have 3 throttle response setting and then there's the control for the Driver Controlled Center Differential that goes from open to full lock with three automatic settings. It would take a ton of data just for this car alone. Any number of those combination gets the car to react differently to situations with low traction or high speed cornering. It would not be time and disk space effective to have this sort of detail (though it would be insanely cool).
 
My car doesn't have TCS or ASM. It does have ABS but it goes on and off when I want.
It's mostly likely so you can disable it when driving in the snow, since abs actually makes your stopping distance increase on all road surfaces but the stoping distance is shorter than if you locked up(most of the time). That being said you can actually stop shorter in the snow by locking the wheels because a small wedge of snow will build up front when going in a straight line of course.
 
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Well you know it is a game and these settings are common. The one that always anoys me the most is being able to switch between auto and manual tranny. I understand the reasoning but I also think that it should be possible to have one car with an auto and another with a manual and if the car comes with one and you want the other you should have to buy it.

As for the TCS ABS ASM I see no reason why these can not be toggled on/off on any car that is equiped with them. It does not make sense for them to be present on old muslce cars unless you have purchased the upgrade but once installed they could easily be toggled as they are all electronic componets.

My Mustang for example has a switch on the dash for TCS so I can turn it on or off anytime I want.

The one thing that bugs me more than anything else is drivers who complain about people using ABS or TCS or even STM while they themselves are using the driving line which is one of the most unrealistic assists that you will find. All the others exist in real life on real production cars so if someone wants to use them or not it should be up to them and if you use any assist you clearly have no place putting down someone who prefers an auto or TCS.
 
Keep the aids to the realistic level that the car in real life allows if you wish, options are there to make the majority of players including casuals happy! Its good business!
 
Don't want to go off topic, but how do I PM someone? All I see is a profile public board..

Welcome to the 'Planet, Pesmerga :)

You can click on a member's name, and a menu should display giving you the option to PM. If it was not working earlier, that was because your first few posts need to be approved by the staff before you can send and receive.

:cheers:
 
Welcome to the 'Planet, Pesmerga :)

You can click on a member's name, and a menu should display giving you the option to PM. If it was not working earlier, that was because your first few posts need to be approved by the staff before you can send and receive.

:cheers:
Oh, okay. Thank you.
 
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