Renown Tuning ™ NFS Shift Tuning Guide/Tutorial

Terronium-12

Terronium-12

For My Mom, Always
Moderator
28,197
United States
Brooklyn, NY
KR_Viper
I Renown I
Placeholder for the eventual guide that's somewhere between 37-43% done (yes, even after all of this time :lol:) and no, I am not pulling a Polyphony Digital...well, maybe just a little bit.

You want a good guide, don't you?

I can't promise this but I'm aiming to have this done before January 1st, and don't worry about the RT and RT TT Competition threads, they haven't been locked...I closed them for the day. Just a holiday thing...if there's anything you're concerned of with either feel free to PM me. If it's a tuning request, hold on to it until tomorrow.

I knew I would forget to remove the "Merry Christmas."
 
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thats awesome dude! Really quite incredible that you would share such valuable knowledge to those of us who dont really know what were doing......

But I am still looking forward to your review of the tunes I sent you...........lol
 
darkos
Please do not do it.
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I'm not sure what you're problem is but you really need to think about how you get your point across as you are soming across as being incredibly rude. It's simple, if you don't like Terronium's tunes, don't use them. If you think you can do better, then release your tunes and we can decide. Please do not come on here badmouthing T12's work - there are a great deal of people here who really aprreciate his work and hope it will continue.

Rant Over
 
Im not rude in any way. and i find his setups for cars especially Racing like CCX and Zonda R not just wrong but messed up completely.

Im not tune expert but much more experienced in driving those cars. First one that i used was for CCX and i find that completely wrong. While other players may abandoned that monster i find my self use this car a lot, so when i finally fixed up everything like it' should be it turns out that lots of his changes where made without any sense. And then there is infamous Zonda R prepared for Nordschleife, tested on other track and probably not on any part of Nurburgring. The answer we newer know because the author is rude and ignores any sensible advices. The car it self behaves just like couple people gives their opinion and proper changes have to be made. So i find another setup ruined again.

So now there is an idea to have Guide and tutorial? im just asking, Please do not do it. There is serious arguments like why tire pressure is always so low? Why braking forcing front the car to work more than it's back. Why wings are set up so there is no down force balance between speed and acceleration so the back of the car does not have enough down force because it is set up only for strong down force or only for lack of it and give only a speed. Did you get it? Do you really want to feel those cars like they shouldn't.

All those elements of setting the car for this precise player are hard to handle. No go to shop, buy a car, drive on the track and then change tire pressure max on low, drive again. try to feel difference and then set up max on high, drive again and then try to feel difference. The answer will be in your head immediately. And then there is a matter of setting the car for specific track, some of them are fast and there is no point of setting a car for balance between down force and corners.

Ohh and there should be a proper warning, like this set up is recommended only at this track and no other. Try now figure out for what track those set ups are made for ? Im remember only one, like the wind for London River. And even so there is no mentioning it is for pad, or it is for wheel. What wheel set up should we use? Full 900* or standard 360*? whats with the Acceleration and brakes force?

Again just saying, no one listening, people still loosing times and races.
 
darkos
Im not rude in any way. and i find his setups for cars especially Racing like CCX and Zonda R not just wrong but messed up completely.

.
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Yes you are being very rude. You may not be trying to be, but apparently you have a talent for it.
 
Hey Terronium-12, i did a test on your tune for the Audi r8.
The deal with the test was as follows.

TEST 1
Audi R8
All upgrades minus shorter final drive and seam welded chassis.
Standard tune settings.
2 laps of SPA GP.
All assists off including ABS.
No best line.
G25 steering wheel using the 6 gear H pattern shifter.

TIME 4.52.750

TEST 2
Audi R8
All upgrades minus shorter final drive and seam welded chassis.
Terronium-12 tune settings.
2 laps of SPA GP
All assists off including ABS.
No best line.
G25 steering wheel using the 6 speed H pattern shifter.

TIME 4.50.950

TEST DETAILS
In Between tests the PS3 was switched off for 45 Min's while i had a cuppa so i was wasn't warmed up to the wheel at all.

Then i played 2 laps of the nurburgring in my Mitsubishi evo 10, i did this so that when i done the 2 laps in the Audi r8 it would feel strange and foreign to drive because i would be warmed up to the evo 10 making the test a bit better.

The car was pushed with flat out throttle were ever it was possible to really test the grip breaking point on both setups, doing this also tested the weight shifting characteristic's of the car before and after to see how maneuverable it is.

FINAL VERDICT

Well i must say the standard settings were not to much different in handling characteristic's, the Audi is tail happy but in a usable way if the rite amount of steering and throttle is used, which makes it fun to drive when you get warmed up to it.
But it can also lead to much frustration as the back end tends to bog down when it gets tail happy and you can loose a lot of entry and exit speed.

I had an issue with the handling of the r8, when i had the back end out in a corner i would get a slight flick from the front wheels when i brought the back end back in.
and if i was skimming the curbs the flick would often knock the wheel onto the grass slightly loosing me time.


terrenium 12 settings

As soon as i drove this i noticed the difference, the tail happiness was still there but the bogging wasn't as bad i had a lot more exit and entry speed.

The car felt a lot more assertive now the front wheel's would go were ever i pointed them no matter how far out the back wheel's were drifting out.

And the slight flick issue i was having with the front wheels is gone no annoying flick of the front wheels when i bring the back end in meaning i can get a lot closer to the curbs.

But the 4Th gear did feel a little bit flat compered to the standard tune.

Overall i found the terrenium 12 setting to be the better of the 2, the car felt a lot more pinned and because of that i could push the car a lot harder into corners.

Although this is not the best car to test because the setting between the 2 haven't been altered a great deal i can say the difference was apparent.

I guarantee that i can test 90% of terrenium 12's tunes and gain time and have a better more enjoyable race and i intend to test every one of them depending on the feedback from this.

There are rules to tuning and they are that there is never an advantage
without a disadvantage were you gain in some places you will lose in others that's just the way it is.
But its all down to how the tune its self suits you as a driver.

I have 2 videos of the 2 runs i will post them if you like so you can watch the difference between the 2 test runs.


TEST RUN ONE
http://www.youtube.com/user/HOOLIGINGVGFFG#p/a/u/1/SpPyx3aXzT8

TEST RUN TWO
http://www.youtube.com/user/HOOLIGINGVGFFG#p/a/u/0/4aNNEBY9AZ8

If you put them side by side and watch it section by section you can see the turrenium 12 tune hits the corners tighter and keeps the momentum and speed up in the APEX.
 
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darkos
Please do not do it.
Click to expand...

darkos
Im not rude in any way. and i find his setups for cars especially Racing like CCX and Zonda R not just wrong but messed up completely.

Im not tune expert but much more experienced in driving those cars. First one that i used was for CCX and i find that completely wrong. While other players may abandoned that monster i find my self use this car a lot, so when i finally fixed up everything like it' should be it turns out that lots of his changes where made without any sense. And then there is infamous Zonda R prepared for Nordschleife, tested on other track and probably not on any part of Nurburgring. The answer we newer know because the author is rude and ignores any sensible advices. The car it self behaves just like couple people gives their opinion and proper changes have to be made. So i find another setup ruined again.

So now there is an idea to have Guide and tutorial? im just asking, Please do not do it. There is serious arguments like why tire pressure is always so low? Why braking forcing front the car to work more than it's back. Why wings are set up so there is no down force balance between speed and acceleration so the back of the car does not have enough down force because it is set up only for strong down force or only for lack of it and give only a speed. Did you get it? Do you really want to feel those cars like they shouldn't.

All those elements of setting the car for this precise player are hard to handle. No go to shop, buy a car, drive on the track and then change tire pressure max on low, drive again. try to feel difference and then set up max on high, drive again and then try to feel difference. The answer will be in your head immediately. And then there is a matter of setting the car for specific track, some of them are fast and there is no point of setting a car for balance between down force and corners.

Ohh and there should be a proper warning, like this set up is recommended only at this track and no other. Try now figure out for what track those set ups are made for ? Im remember only one, like the wind for London River. And even so there is no mentioning it is for pad, or it is for wheel. What wheel set up should we use? Full 900* or standard 360*? whats with the Acceleration and brakes force?

Again just saying, no one listening, people still loosing times and races.
Click to expand...


Dude, if you're in love with me...flowers first. Okay?

The banter isn't getting you anywhere.
 
darkos
Im not rude in any way. and i find his setups for cars especially Racing like CCX and Zonda R not just wrong but messed up completely.

Im not tune expert but much more experienced in driving those cars. First one that i used was for CCX and i find that completely wrong. While other players may abandoned that monster i find my self use this car a lot, so when i finally fixed up everything like it' should be it turns out that lots of his changes where made without any sense. And then there is infamous Zonda R prepared for Nordschleife, tested on other track and probably not on any part of Nurburgring. The answer we newer know because the author is rude and ignores any sensible advices. The car it self behaves just like couple people gives their opinion and proper changes have to be made. So i find another setup ruined again.

So now there is an idea to have Guide and tutorial? im just asking, Please do not do it. There is serious arguments like why tire pressure is always so low? Why braking forcing front the car to work more than it's back. Why wings are set up so there is no down force balance between speed and acceleration so the back of the car does not have enough down force because it is set up only for strong down force or only for lack of it and give only a speed. Did you get it? Do you really want to feel those cars like they shouldn't.

All those elements of setting the car for this precise player are hard to handle. No go to shop, buy a car, drive on the track and then change tire pressure max on low, drive again. try to feel difference and then set up max on high, drive again and then try to feel difference. The answer will be in your head immediately. And then there is a matter of setting the car for specific track, some of them are fast and there is no point of setting a car for balance between down force and corners.

Ohh and there should be a proper warning, like this set up is recommended only at this track and no other. Try now figure out for what track those set ups are made for ? Im remember only one, like the wind for London River. And even so there is no mentioning it is for pad, or it is for wheel. What wheel set up should we use? Full 900* or standard 360*? whats with the Acceleration and brakes force?

Again just saying, no one listening, people still loosing times and races.
Click to expand...

Ok, this probably didn;t come acroos quite right. I'm not accusing you of being rude, just saying that it does come across that way. Terronium seys up his tunes to work as best they can for him but they won't work for everyone. He has said that feedback is welcome but feedback should always be constructive and sometimes yours isn't. Rather than saying about a problem you have discovered, maybe you should suggest your solution, this woul help everyone involved. I don't mean to have a go, just a suggestion you should be more constructive in some aspects of your feedback.

No hard feelings 👍

Andy
 
As with tuning a car for real, there is "setting up the car" and "compensating for the track" and "compensating for the driver". When you tune for a sim you compensate for the controller as well.

I've read Terronium's threads and he's always been up front that he is tuning for his style on his controller on his specific track with a specifically upgraded car. I really don't understand how someone can miss this part?
 
Just so this space won't remain empty for too long, I'll put up the short first draft that I worked on, it isn't completed yet and I fear it won't be done before the New Year, either. :guilty:

So, without further ado the first and rather short first draft, oh and note once it is completed this will be erased as will the introductory post to the thread and will be replaced with the full guide.

...Brought to you by

qpkkcm.jpg


This has been overdue for quite sometime now, so here it goes. This is going to be the official tuning guide/tutorial for Need For Speed: Shift. The primary intention of this guide is to help you in understanding how to properly tune and/or assess specific problems which in the end will give you an advantage of understanding how much you want from the vehicle(s). Of course this isn't going to be a "walk in the park" per se, nor will it be unreasonably difficult to grasp, but understanding what each key element does and/or effects, again, will allow to better understand how tuning works. This guide will primarily utilize the ethics of the game as the basis of understanding, however, I will apply real-world where possible and as much as I possibly can without voiding the extremes the game itself adhere to.

So, you may be wondering what actually goes into tuning and to be perfectly honest like many fields similar in such precision it's basically trial and error. Of course there are rules and proper procedures involved in going about tuning every particular car unique to it's characteristics, there's no way tuning will become an overnight thing, or something one grasps after driving around in one particular vehicle for several hours. Mechanical tuning is dynamic is the very sense it is ever-changing. No single setup will be prominent at every location because different tracks require certain extremes, and with those particular extremes come a variety of preparations for not only the driver of the vehicle, but the team as well. Weather plays a huge factor, elevation changes play a huge factor, wind speed, wind resistance (drag), speed, grip, tire ply.....they all contribute to form and function. Where you might be able to lap Laguna Seca in 1.12:650 with one particular setup, you may lap Silverstone in 1:23:772 using the same setup, and Silverstone is a tad bit shorter than Laguna Seca. The point alludes to what was said earlier - this (tuning) is a dynamic responsibility, however, before we jump into any of the advanced tuning scenarios let's first focus on getting you started altogether.

So, to finally begin you have the following options available to you in the tuning section of NFS Shift...

Tire and Brakes

F. Tire Pressure
R. Tire Pressure
Brake Balance

Alignment

Steering Lock
Caster Angle
F. Toe Angle
R. Toe Angle
F. Camber
R. Camber
F. Ride Height
R. Ride Height

Springs and Dampers

F. Sway bar
R. Sway bar
F. Spring Rate
R. Spring Rate
F. Bump Stop Length
R. Bump Stop Length
F. Damper Slow Bump
R. Damper Slow Bump
F. Damper Fast Bump
R. Damper Fast Bump
F. Damper Slow Rebound
R. Damper Slow Rebound
F. Damper Fast Rebound
R. Damper Fast Rebound

Differential

L. Slip Acceleration Lock
L. Slip Deceleration Lock
L. Slip Preload
Visco Electronic Lock

Gearing

Final
1st
2nd
3rd
4th
5th
6th

Aerodynamics

F. Downforce
R. Downforce
Cooler Radiator Opening
Brake Duct Opening

Now, while the sliders provided aren't reliable in giving absolute precise measurements (majority of the settings equate to increments of 10 and up) there is enough room to salvage a drivable vehicle without having to go from one absolute extreme to the other. Right now we'll turn our attention to the first adjustable parameter - Tires and Brakes.

This parameter allows the adjustment of both the front and rear tire pressures and the brake balance between the front and the rear, before even getting started on the explanation I would like to point out that you should never, and I repeat never attempt a 50/50 distribution when dealing with brake balance. Why? For one, fluid pressure doesn't react nor does it respond in much of the same ways that weight balancing would. Two, you almost always want the most pressure where the wheels are being driven, except in the case of the FF drivetrain where you'd want more pressure away from the driven wheels; you already have an understeer bias from the start so there's no need to worsen the problem. Back to the point, you'd want more pressure where the wheels are being driven for two reasons: 1. Decreased braking distance. 2. Overall stability. This, like any other tuning parameter is a series of trial and error, be careful not too place too much pressure (balance) toward the rear or the front as you'll lock up the wheels before the front wheels can (in the case there's more pressure toward the rear) or you'll lock the front wheels before the rear wheels can (in the case there's more pressure toward the front), which will not only increase your overall braking distance due to immature wheel lock but you will also encounter oversteer or understeer as a result. I'm going to use the MR-layout as an example, ideally you'd want the rear tires to lock just before the front tires, not instantly, not seconds after...but just at the right time. That right time can only be felt by you and you'll have an idea of when you're on the right track. If when you slam on the brakes the car pretty much shoots sideways, you have too much brake pressure going to the rear. If you find yourself in the dirt patches and/or a wall there's a good chance there isn't enough brake pressure going to the rear wheels, or the front wheels may be locking up.
 
This is wrong on some many levels, i laugh my ass of reading this.

and you are the one to say that setting the car for one track and testing on other is make sens. And what doesn't is to set a specific car for specific track, are you an IDIOT ?? or make this on purpose !!

Posting them and not specified for what controller they are be mend to use and on which console or a PC maybe is irresponsible and stupid. You probably don't know that there are some differences in how the car behaviors on PC, or PS3, there are times differences on every track and also there is the matter of patches released for x360 and ps3 that changed the way of playing and handling all the cars.

Right now im about 100 percent positive about that you are not using Wheel, and u're are not playing on PS3. Probably on X360, while i check your profile on PS3 it turns out that you don't have one in Shift.

I ask a simple question in nice way but you ignored and behaved like 🤬 lion in jungle sitting on his throne. What !!! Criticism is painful isn't it ?? I have a news flash for you, Last tunes for Zonda R, for McLaren and CCX proved me that you are not improving cars but make them worse. So my advice to you is to shut the 🤬 up and stop posting ridicules set ups and advices. Every thing must be change from scratch whenever you touch a car. I know that because i managed to improve lap times changing a lot of thins in your set up, just today i manage to go 6:15:500 in my Zonda prepared specifically for Nordschleife and no dumb ass will tell me that setting the car for specific track doesn't make any sense. Thats the only test ground for cars that should be used in the game, a lot of car makers go to germany and test their cars there on this specific track, call them and tell them that they work does not make any sense. If you preparing a set of tunes at least you could write for which track they are and for which controller, pad or wheel, and is it for ps3 or for x360, but no such information was ever posted by you in your topic. An now you want to teat how to improve cars ?? I laugh my ass off.
 
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darkos
Rude & sweary rant.
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I really hope that the admins take a close look at this post.

I think it's ridiculous that, because you think differently than someone else, or disagree with what they say or do, that you feel entitled to throw personal insults around. What are you? Eight years old?

Why don't you go post your nonsense at the EA Forum and leave us the hell alone?
 
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MannyMoenjack
I really hope that the admins take a close look at this post.

I think it's ridiculous that, because you think differently than someone else, or disagree with what they say or do, that you feel entitled to throw personal insults around. What are you? Eight years old?

Why don't you go post your nonsense at the EA Forum and leave us the hell alone?
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Yea bugger off to the EA site, we have been as polite and understanding as we can be with you.

Every one is entitled to an opinion and people's opinions will differ, and no one is saying you shouldn't have an opinion but there are certain ways to put an opinion across and yours is just plain old RUDE!!!!!

We all really appreciate T12's work and talking to him like that will not be received well on this site as you can see, and don't think u will make Meany friends here with that talk ether.
 
MannyMoenjack
I really hope that the admins take a close look at this post.
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It did.

Terronium-12
Ugh....I think someone is a little mad I didn't accept their friend request. :lol:
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You got me!! 👍

In conclusion Terrorium-12 tunes are great :bowdown:, they are the Best :bowdown:, we all keep wining lots of On Line races and keep beating record times because his good work :bowdown:. Keep up good work 👍 One more thing, my apologies will probably be thrown into a toilet but still I am Apologizing :bowdown:
 
Guys, simple really, ignore him and he'll get bored and go away. What we don't want is T12's excellent work to get ruined because his threads get locked or people get banned for being dragged into a flamewar. Lets concentrate on the tunes and the members whose opinions we value 👍
 
i have discovered something useful, i put darko's on my ignore list, guess what? all of his poisoned pen correspondence is now hidden from my eyes, it made for depressing reading i must say, if i want depression i'll just read my bank statements. so just add darkos to your ignore list problem solved. DARKOS when you read this don't respond to me, i wont see it.
 
NITROVIOUS
i have discovered something useful, i put darko's on my ignore list, guess what? all of his poisoned pen correspondence is now hidden from my eyes, it made for depressing reading i must say, if i want depression i'll just read my bank statements. so just add darkos to your ignore list problem solved. DARKOS when you read this don't respond to me, i wont see it.
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I was wondering if you could do something like that, and what wonders it has worked. 👍
 
I've been working on it here and there and the completed first draft is almost done. I'll go over that and post it here when it's done. 👍
 
It's coming full force now, I don't have any reasons to delay working on this anymore. I am, however, going to work on a new layout (template) for the tutorial based on an idea I've gotten from another DIY Tuning guide (FM3) to double-check what I'm writing, just to make sure I haven't lost my mind.

Yet.
 
Damnit. It might have to rewrite all of this, it's like reading notes an astronomer wrote in this sense all of this is jumbled. :ill:

Oh, and I've noticed a couple of members on other forums taking credit for my tunes - friggin' heathens. :lol:

EDIT: Did I just refer to myself as "It"?
 
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Another update here, boys and girls. The basic introduction is done.
 

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