Right Then. "New" Car Time.

[Tornado]

Some of you may know I had a trusty 190BHP, AWD Speed Demon that was in serious contemplation for an engine swap. Well, the 4.3 in it left this earth before I could procure the 5.7 I was going to put in it and took much of the transmission with it (which I did not want to replace), so knowing full well I can't afford to drive to work and school in anything with a 440 in it (though, for the last day of school it is being taken) I need suggestions for a car.
Some criteria:

• If it is FWD, it better not be a GM product made after 1994, unless it is an Oldmosbile.
• It has to be a fun-to-drive car.
• If it is an SUV, it better be an SUV and not a jacked up station wagon (though an actual jacked up station wagon may be fine). I want off-roadability so it can be, well...off-roaded.
  
• It can not have an automatic in it unless it is an SUV/truck.
• No vans, Mini- or otherwise.
• Must be under $5,000.
• No age limit, but be realistic.
  

What I am currently looking at:

1. Dodge Shadow/Plymouth Sundance * (like my mother's)
   
2. Pre-2000 Dodge Neon R/T * (like my father's)
   
3. Post-1990 Ford Mustang
4. Any Camaro *
5. Post-1982 Pontiac Firebird *
6. Chevrolet K5 Blazer *
7. Chevrolet GMT 400 Blazer/Tahoe 2-door *
8. AMC Gremlin *
9. Any Honda CRX
10. Jeep Wrangler *
11. Jeep Cherokee
12. Mercedes 190D *
13. GMT 400 C/K*[*]Subaru Forester[*]VW Golf GTi Mk. II[*]VW Corrado/Scirocco *[*]Honda Prelude *[*]Jeep Grand Wagoneer[*]Subaru Impreza[*]International Harvester Scout[*]Chevrolet El Camino 5th gen.[*]Volvo 240-series

In addition to these, I am also contemplating just pulling another 4L60E out of a Camaro or something along with the engine from a local junkyard.
Edit: Updated list (what I'm now looking at):

1. Jeep Wrangler
2. Volvo 240-series
3. GMT 400 C/K
4. Chevrolet GMT 400 Blazer/Tahoe 2-door *
5. My old Blazer with a 5.7L
6. Mercedes 190D
7. VW Corrado/Scirocco
8. Honda Prelude​

Edit: Updated list circa 12/20

1. Volvo 240-series
2. Jeep Wrangler
3. Chevrolet GMT 400 Blazer/Tahoe 2-door
4. My old Blazer with a 5.7L
5. Mercedes 190D (test driven)​

 

[Philly]

Sorry, I saw the title and kinda snapped.

I notice there have reen 3 threads active on new cars in the last week. Maybe we should start a new car thread.

Anyway, back to topic. You don't have to stick to American cars. There are some pretty good japanese cars out there that I would recommend.

 

[Tornado]

Go ahead. I've just been looking at American cars, but I'm open to pretty much anything.

 

[neanderthal]

you can find a merc 300E for that price.

a 400E would be even better, but probably just out of that price range.

but its definitely not a stick. though there were a few manual transmission models in the mid to late 80s.

 

[Boz Mon]

you might be able to find a 4th gen Prelude for under 5 grand, if your lucky. If not, theres always the third generation. 👍

 

[skip0110]

Just stick a TPI 350 in the truck.

 

[harrytuttle]

You should be able to find one under $5,000 somewhere:

1998 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS

 

[1X83Z]

Jeep Grand Wagoneer. **** do those things go for? AutoTrader says $4771 on average.

 

[TheCracker]

I've just bought myself a Subaru Forester - it seems to fit your criterior too

• More car-like than most SUV/SUV Estate hybrids
• Always scores high in consumer satisfaction polls
• Roomy
• You'll get one in your price range (mine was a similarish price for a full service history, one owner, 2000 year example.)
• It's a hoot to drive. Apart from the obvious body roll (although not bad for an SUV type) it grips really well, even on the standard narrow semi off-road tyres 👍

edit - Actually, after replacing one of my tyres this afternoon, the tyres are just average on-road style - just high profile (that acounts for the 'roll' then!)

 

[eiriksmil]

Where should I begin?
If you want a fun car, I would personally go with either a Daihatsu Charade G100, a Honda Civic EF/CRX or a Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX/Eagle Talon TSi AWD/Plymouth Laser AWD 1G, or perhaps a Golf Mk I/II.

Daihatsu is a Japanese car maker and the Charade G100 was built between 1987 and 1993.5. There were relatively few examples sold in the United States, but if you can find an example with the 1.3 litre HC-E engine, it's a golden car. The most common faults are rev counters that stop working and I have personally experienced problems with the alternator, however I believe it's a relatively uncommon fault.
If you decide to go with the G100, you will get a 94 bhp car weighing 850 kilogrammes, with loads of fun to go with you.

Another possibility is as said, Honda Civic EF/CRX. If you find an SiR version, you will get 160 brake horse power on tap, with a very friendly engine to modify. Modern technology packed in a very light and agile bodyshell gives you a joy for cheap money. The EF/CRX was built between mid 80's to 1992, however I would go with one of the last versions because of the equipment.

The Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX was also known as the Plymouth Laser AWD and Eagle Talon TSi AWD. With these cars you get AWD combined with the 4G63 you can find in the Lancer Evolution series (although the engines are 7-bolt and reversed after 1996, when the Evo IV came). The 4G63 is extremely friendly to mods and you can easily make a quick DSM. The 1G DSMs were built between 1989 and 1995.

In addition, you have the German alternative, the Volkswagen Rabbit and Golf. The Rabbit in GTi form is quick, with a 1.8 112 bhp 8 valve engine, while the Golf Mk II got two 1.8 16v units, the PL and KR. Your friend is the KR, with 139 brake horse power on tap from stock, and these engines are not extremely difficult to modifiy either. To make the best out of it although, you need plenty of modifications as it's an NA engine and not quite as fun as the Honda 1.6 engines.
The Rabbit (also known as Golf Mk I) was built from 1974 to 1984, while the Mk II was built from 84 to 92.

What I would do is get myself a Talon TSi AWD, or a Volkswagen Rabbit with a 16v KR installed, lightly modded you should get about 140-150 bhp, enough to get some thrills with the light chassis.

I do not know if these cars are too old for you, however. The Rabbit is probably getting a tad old, if you prefer a newer car a 94 TSi could be a hit.
Good luck, and just ask if you need more tips about cars, or more information about these cars I have already written a bit about.


Eirik

 

[Leonidae]

 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX/Eagle Talon TSi AWD/Plymouth Laser AWD 1G

The Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX was also known as the Plymouth Laser AWD and Eagle Talon TSi AWD. With these cars you get AWD combined with the 4G63 you can find in the Lancer Evolution series (although the engines are 7-bolt and reversed after 1996, when the Evo IV came). The 4G63 is extremely friendly to mods and you can easily make a quick DSM. The 1G DSMs were built between 1989 and 1995.[/QUOTE]

I have one thing to say: crank walk.

[QUOTE]In addition, you have the German alternative, the Volkswagen Rabbit and Golf. The Rabbit in GTi form is quick, with a 1.8 112 bhp 8 valve engine, while the Golf Mk II got two 1.8 16v units, the PL and KR. Your friend is the KR, with 139 brake horse power on tap from stock, and these engines are not extremely difficult to modifiy either. To make the best out of it although, you need plenty of modifications as it's an NA engine and not quite as fun as the Honda 1.6 engines.
The Rabbit (also known as Golf Mk I) was built from 1974 to 1984, while the Mk II was built from 84 to 92.
Volkswagen Rabbit with a 16v KR installed, lightly modded you should get about 140-150 bhp, enough to get some thrills with the light chassis.

Eirik[/QUOTE]

Golf GTi is most reasonable one, I'd say. but every time when someone mentions DSM's, I can already see the pictures of crank walk.. :lol:

 

[eiriksmil]

I have one thing to say: crank walk.



Golf GTi is most reasonable one, I'd say. but every time when someone mentions DSM's, I can already see the pictures of crank walk..

The 2G DSMs are known for crank walk, not the 1Gs. The 2Gs were built between 1995 and 2001. A faulty bearing is to blame for the crank walk, but it doesn't happen on every 2G either.


Eirik

 

[Pupik]

1. Dodge Shadow/Plymouth Sundance (like my mother's)
- You like oil leaks and crusty interiors? Might as well buy a regular Neon for the same $1000.

2. Pre-2000 Dodge Neon R/T (like my father's)
- Not bad, be prepared to replace a clutch, and possibly a head gasket. You don't want the 3-speed automatic. Ask Duke for some info.

3. Post-1990 Ford Mustang
4. Any Camaro.
5. Post-1982 Pontiac Firebird.
- Not a bad bunch of choices. It's a good starting point, and there's tons of aftermarket stuff.

6. Chevrolet K5 Blazer
7. Chevrolet GMT 400 Blazer/Tahoe 2-door.
- Don't care about SUVs, but these last quite long.

8. AMC Gremlin.
- Do you really want be a joke with car enthusiasts and non-car enthusiasts?

9. Any Honda CRX.
- Good luck finding one that hasn't been hit with some ricer's ugly stick. If it's in good shape, and cared for, it's a good find. 2-seater car insurance can be tough on 16-year-olds, though...but you'll never be asked by you're buddies to drive everyone on a road trip. Say, maybe that evens out...

10. Jeep Wrangler.
- Do you mind roll-overs? Or your hearing at highway speeds? No? Then it's a great off-road vehicle.

11. Jeep Cherokee.
- Tough as nails. Boring as nails, too.

-----------------------------------

You might find an old Impreza south of $5K, it's not the most common car, so it's something different.

 

[Jim Prower]

8. AMC Gremlin.
- Do you really want be a joke with car enthusiasts and non-car enthusiasts?

Why you are wrong.

• Out-sold the Beetle in it's day
• Had better quality than many automobiles of the '70s
• Came with anything from VW's 2.0L SOHC lump (GTI Twin-cam conversion?) to several of AMC's bulletproof Sixes (Jeep's 4.0) to a 5.0L V8.
• On that Eight...there ARE speed parts available. or, you could drop in a Mopar crate 5.7 Hemi, or 360. or whatever eight you want, I guess, if you really want to put in a...Chevy.
• Value is begenning to get to that point where it's going to appreciate...
  There are people (mostly people who don't know that it's supposed to be uncool, and AMC fans) who will think you're pretty cool for having an old car.

I think a lot of people confuse the Gremlin and the Pacer...which WAS a joke.

Other cars?

Cosworth Vega: Really the only Vega worth a look, being the rarest, and the fastest, not to mention, the most reliable. You know what Cosworth does to engines. Problem's finding one.

Actual Jacked-up Station Wagon...or Coupe...or Sedan...AMC Eagle: Well, you DID say Jacked-up Station Wagon, and they're not that hard to find.

 

[TopHat]

I like the Idea of you driving an old AMC product.... you just feel special. Its like riding a dinosaur. But in a good way.

Also, have you considered an Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme?

 

[skip0110]

Also, have you considered an Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme?

If you are going for the 78-88 version might as well just get a 442.

Only if you like dealing with miles of vacuum lines though.

 

[TopHat]

I was thinking anything from 73 to 88 actually.... They just look so darn good!

 

[Tornado]

- You like oil leaks and crusty interiors? Might as well buy a regular Neon for the same $1000.

The only problem my mother's Shadow has ever experienced is a penchant for attracting deer. And they have far more toqrue than a Neon could ever dream of.

- Not bad, be prepared to replace a clutch, and possibly a head gasket. You don't want the 3-speed automatic. Ask Duke for some info.

No automatics. Period. And I'd prefer a post '97 model so the head gasket problem is under control.

- Do you really want be a joke with car enthusiasts and non-car enthusiasts?

No. If I wanted that I'd look for a Pacer.

- Good luck finding one that hasn't been hit with some ricer's ugly stick. If it's in good shape, and cared for, it's a good find. 2-seater car insurance can be tough on 16-year-olds, though...but you'll never be asked by you're buddies to drive everyone on a road trip. Say, maybe that evens out...

True. I've realised that, and also that they may be overpriced for the same reasons AE86's and 240SX's are.

- Do you mind roll-overs? Or your hearing at highway speeds? No? Then it's a great off-road vehicle.

If I was worried about rollovers (keep in mind that Wranglers come with roll-bars) I wouldn't consider any SUV. And I wouldn't touch one without a hard top.

- Tough as nails. Boring as nails, too.

But tough as nails. And essentially the same thing as my current car, so it wouldn't be hard to migrate.

You might find an old Impreza south of $5K, it's not the most common car, so it's something different.

I'll keep that in mind. Added.

The Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX was also known as the Plymouth Laser AWD and Eagle Talon TSi AWD. With these cars you get AWD combined with the 4G63 you can find in the Lancer Evolution series (although the engines are 7-bolt and reversed after 1996, when the Evo IV came). The 4G63 is extremely friendly to mods and you can easily make a quick DSM. The 1G DSMs were built between 1989 and 1995.

I'm worried about the aforementioned engine problems and other problems resulting from such a high strung car. A lot of things can break.

Daihatsu is a Japanese car maker and the Charade G100 was built between 1987 and 1993.5. There were relatively few examples sold in the United States, but if you can find an example with the 1.3 litre HC-E engine, it's a golden car. The most common faults are rev counters that stop working and I have personally experienced problems with the alternator, however I believe it's a relatively uncommon fault.
If you decide to go with the G100, you will get a 94 bhp car weighing 850 kilogrammes, with loads of fun to go with you.

I'm wary of such a limited import car, especially one with no dealer network to get help from if something major breaks.

you might be able to find a 4th gen Prelude for under 5 grand, if your lucky. If not, theres always the third generation.

Good idea. Added.

In addition, you have the German alternative, the Volkswagen Rabbit and Golf. The Rabbit in GTi form is quick, with a 1.8 112 bhp 8 valve engine, while the Golf Mk II got two 1.8 16v units, the PL and KR. Your friend is the KR, with 139 brake horse power on tap from stock, and these engines are not extremely difficult to modifiy either. To make the best out of it although, you need plenty of modifications as it's an NA engine and not quite as fun as the Honda 1.6 engines.
The Rabbit (also known as Golf Mk I) was built from 1974 to 1984, while the Mk II was built from 84 to 92.

A good idea, but I would mprefer the Scirocco or Corrado to the Golf/Rabbit.

I've just bought myself a Subaru Forester - it seems to fit your criterior too

Added.

Jeep Grand Wagoneer. **** do those things go for? AutoTrader says $4771 on average.

A damned good idea. Added and starred as it will probably last forever.
I'm also considering looking at International Harvester Scouts and Chevrolet El Caminos (which I would imagine would also take well to 5.7L Camaro engines)..

 

[1X83Z]

"Just try to kill me."

Test drive one. Just look at that body.

 

[skip0110]

Don't do it, I've driven and worked on one of those and they are absolute rubbish unless they are going 1/2 mph up the side of some boulder.

I mean just think of how hard it'll be to tune up a carbed 360 with emissions stuff from '90 on there.

I mean another S10 is so much of a better choice, probably one of the best choices if you want to stick with a off roady type of SUV thing.

EDIT: In fact many of your choices would be hampered by carbs+emissions equipment, even an early EFI is better every day than sitting outside in 10 degree weather waiting for your choke to close at 8 am for 5 minutes every morning.

 

[Tornado]

EDIT: In fact many of your choices would be hampered by carbs+emissions equipment, even an early EFI is better every day than sitting outside in 10 degree weather waiting for your choke to close at 8 am for 5 minutes every morning.

Some examples, please?


And this has just taken front priority, because my new bike was stolen today, so I need a car to get me to school now.

 

[=V8 Power=]

Ya def stick to an American vehicle...

One question, are you street or off-road? Half those vehicles are street cars, half are kinda 4x4 off-roading vehicles. They both have there advantages/disadvantages. Does it snow where u live?

Someone said that insurance is tough on 2-doors for 16 year olds. Not true. I have a 2-door and insurance is very reasonable. The thing that will jack up insurance is engine size. Especially top of the line performance models (SS, SVT, Si, SRT...)

 

[mwoodski]

I second the nomination for AMC Eagle.

 

[skip0110]

Some examples, please?


And this has just taken front priority, because my new bike was stolen today, so I need a car to get me to school now.

Unfortunate about the bike : (

Since you are a practical person (well at least your posts make you come across as one) I'm going to suggest cars that may not be the most fun to drive (but anything with a stick will be at least moderately fun) but will definitely take you to school/work every morning. You can worry about a "toy" when you have a career 👍

From your list, the ones that stand out as good decisions to me are (with my comments where I have experience):

1. Dodge Shadow/Plymouth Sundance * (like my mother's) (the Mopar 2.2 is a great workhorse, turbos might have head gasket issues. V6es are okay as far as I know.)
6. Chevrolet K5 Blazer * (no experience, but I think they are durable)
7. Chevrolet GMT 400 Blazer/Tahoe 2-door * (ditto)
9. Any Honda CRX (tough as nails, but a little small inside, and not very good long distance. I had a '90 Civic for about 3-4 years and beat the snot out of it, and it always came back for more. Only thing done at the dealer was the timing belt as preventative maintenace. I replaced a half-shaft--due to my abuse, no doubt--and sold it when the fuel pump or filter was going.)
10. Jeep Wrangler * (see Blazer comment)
11. Jeep Cherokee (these will take some abuse, the 4.0 I6 has some serious life in it)
13. GMT 400 C/K* (see Blazer comment)
14. Subaru Forester (see Impreza)
17. Honda Prelude * (well, its a Honda. Probably going to be good to you.)
19. Subaru Impreza (well I drive an Impreza, my dad drives one, and my mom drives one. The AWD needs some additional care, be sure to abide by the diff and tranny flush intervals. A nice solid feeling car, with a bigger feel than it is, and sure footed in the wet. ABS is poor on early models, it works usually but I've seen it do weird things--such as trigger when its not needed. Eats brake pads like crazy--small rotors+drums in the rear cause this. Also between 02-06 the non-turbos have poor speed-density EFI, it works but it's not ideal. The EJ series engine is supposed to be very durable, but it gets to sounding very industrial after it wears a bit. Also I thought I'd mention that doing an oil change on a Subaru is the easiest thing ever, you don't even have to jack the car up.)

Neon is out because I haven't had good experiences with them (I think Duke would disagree, but I personally would never buy one). Mustang, F-body, and Elky are out because they are probably not going to be the most reliable cars, especially within your budget. Gremlin, Wagoneer, and Scout are out due to the carbs. VWs are out due to my perception of their reliability, like the Neon. They are also not easy to work on yourself, without special tools. The Mercedes will never leave you stranded, but I'd expect a lot of little things to break and annoy you, so I'm eliminating it too.

EDIT: also, might want to add the Volvo 740/240. Volvos were good before ford started doing the designing.

 

[1X83Z]

EDIT: also, might want to add the Volvo 740/240. Volvos were good before ford started doing the designing.

Volvos were good before the switch to front-wheel drive. Ford resurrected them.

Yum.

 

[eiriksmil]

The DSMs do not automatically break down.
Most Evolutions brake down of one reason, people who cannot drive with a manual gearbox and a clutch. I often hear about launching and doing donuts by young drivers, in particular, and it is no surprise they struggle with clutch problems early in the ownership.

Also, I read about a guy wondering wheter his clutch was breaking down or
not, so he got a tip to depress the clutch while holding high revs in neutral while he was in speed. The guy ended with frying his clutch and now he needs replacement.

The clutch is as I said what stops most Evolutions. DSMs, as I said, are known to have a faulty bearing, resulting in crank walk. However, this is only on the 2nd generation cars, not the first generation, which is my personal favourite.

However, if you want a newer car, go with the 2nd generation DSM. What I personally would do then, is to get me a 4G63 from an Evo VIII, and drop it right in. With 272/272 camshafts, straight pipe (perhaps from Works, if you want lower costs, although I have not seen a dyno before/after with this exhaust, all I know is the Works exhausts can be loud), a bigger intercooler, a drop-in air filter (forget cone filter/cold air intake on the 4G63, it actually likes a decent drop-in better) and a really good tune, and you will quite easily make over 310 bhp, although the idle will not be as good as stock, and the car will be quite loud.

I saw you mentioned the Corrado, which is not a bad thing either. Again, I would recommend an 8v, although the 8v in the Corrado is 2.0 litres, not 1.8 litres, making a healthy amount of 115 bhp from stock. If you like to work on the car engines, there are enough turbocharger kits made for the 8v Volkswagen engines, however a DSM would be three times as durable as a turbocharged German car.

However, it was not only the Golf and Jetta MK IIIs who got the VR6 engine, also the Corrado had this option. And while the Golf and Jetta VR6s are only 2.8 litres, the Corrado are a 2.9, giving it 190 bhp instead of the Golfs 270 bhp, so the Corrado is a better starting point than the Golf for modifications.

I do now quite a bit on the Evolution, however I feel I don't know enough on the DSMs. Therefore, ask Damian if you want some more info on the DSMs on durability and reliability, I can give you his email over PM if you want, just PM me if you would like to know.

Hope this helped a bit more.


Eirik

 

[Danny]

Don't be lazy.

 

[Bram Turismo]

The DSMs do not automatically break down.
Most Evolutions brake down of one reason, people who cannot drive with a manual gearbox and a clutch. I often hear about launching and doing donuts by young drivers, in particular, and it is no surprise they struggle with clutch problems early in the ownership.

Also, I read about a guy wondering wheter his clutch was breaking down or
not, so he got a tip to depress the clutch while holding high revs in neutral while he was in speed. The guy ended with frying his clutch and now he needs replacement.

The clutch is as I said what stops most Evolutions. DSMs, as I said, are known to have a faulty bearing, resulting in crank walk. However, this is only on the 2nd generation cars, not the first generation, which is my personal favourite.

However, if you want a newer car, go with the 2nd generation DSM. What I personally would do then, is to get me a 4G63 from an Evo VIII, and drop it right in. With 272/272 camshafts, straight pipe (perhaps from Works, if you want lower costs, although I have not seen a dyno before/after with this exhaust, all I know is the Works exhausts can be loud), a bigger intercooler, a drop-in air filter (forget cone filter/cold air intake on the 4G63, it actually likes a decent drop-in better) and a really good tune, and you will quite easily make over 310 bhp, although the idle will not be as good as stock, and the car will be quite loud.

I saw you mentioned the Corrado, which is not a bad thing either. Again, I would recommend an 8v, although the 8v in the Corrado is 2.0 litres, not 1.8 litres, making a healthy amount of 115 bhp from stock. If you like to work on the car engines, there are enough turbocharger kits made for the 8v Volkswagen engines, however a DSM would be three times as durable as a turbocharged German car.

However, it was not only the Golf and Jetta MK IIIs who got the VR6 engine, also the Corrado had this option. And while the Golf and Jetta VR6s are only 2.8 litres, the Corrado are a 2.9, giving it 190 bhp instead of the Golfs 270 bhp, so the Corrado is a better starting point than the Golf for modifications.

I do now quite a bit on the Evolution, however I feel I don't know enough on the DSMs. Therefore, ask Damian if you want some more info on the DSMs on durability and reliability, I can give you his email over PM if you want, just PM me if you would like to know.

Hope this helped a bit more.


Eirik

Smartass...+Rep 👍

 

[1X83Z]

The DSMs do not automatically break down.

No, they do. Unbelievably, JD Power doesn't have data for the 1st-gen models (or the second-gen ones, but they're more reliabily sound) but essentially the rule is every single one of them gets destroyed within a week of ownership. Many catch fire.

However, if you want a newer car, go with the 2nd generation DSM. What I personally would do then, is to get me a 4G63 from an Evo VIII, and drop it right in.

The average price of a '95-'98 Eclipse GSX on AutoTrader is above $9000. Being a 1995 model doesn't help much either, given their average is around $7700. So that's already out of his price range - by a huge margin - and then you want him to drop in an engine from a very recent, even more expensive Mitsubishi product?

Since we're dreaming, Toronado, I recommend a Ferrari 328 GTS.

I saw you mentioned the Corrado, which is not a bad thing either. Again, I would recommend an 8v, although the 8v in the Corrado is 2.0 litres, not 1.8 litres, making a healthy amount of 115 bhp from stock.

In the US, the Corrado was only sold from 1990 to 1994. From 1990 to early 1992, the only engine was a supercharged 1.6-liter four-cylinder, good for 160 horsepower and a hell of a lot of reliability issues. From mid-1992 to 1994, that engine was replaced by a 172-horsepower 2.8-liter V6. We got no other engines, and the car was not sold any other years, though Canada got it for 1995 as well.

Unbelievably, the Corrado V6 (the only one worth having) is still commanding values in the mid-$6000 range.

 

[skip0110]

No, they do. Unbelievably, JD Power doesn't have data for the 1st-gen models (or the second-gen ones, but they're more reliabily sound) but essentially the rule is every single one of them gets destroyed within a week of ownership. Many catch fire.

Non turbo DSMs have excellent reliability. Stock turbo DSMs are also reliable.

When you up the boost, parts start going kaboom. As could be expected.