RUFs - keeping the back end from stepping out

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worldrevolver

worldrevolver

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worldrevolver
Just picked up a RUF 86 and it's a beast. Sounds great and handles fine (in a straight line!) except for the back end wanting to slide out when turning.

After my 2nd race I got on with it a bit and would just counter steer out of the slides/drifts.

But to cut tenths off laps I need the back end to keep it's shape. I upgraded to race tires medium and the suspension to sports and will buy the custom one when I fire the game up again. Haven't messed with the custom susp in some of my other cars, but I am hoping this is where you can add a bit of ballast.
 
Mind your braking and corner exit speeds, all I can really tell you. Getting into the diff and transmission some will help you with your exits but the tailhappiness of the car remains even with RS tires and extensive tuning.
 
DDAAVVIIDD82
Mind your braking and corner exit speeds, all I can really tell you. Getting into the diff and transmission some will help you with your exits but the tailhappiness of the car remains even with RS tires and extensive tuning.
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Yep that is it right there, it's the exits, where you get on the pedal on most of the other cars and they just lock in so lovingly as you exit a turn the RUF just fishtails away.

I am going to try NJ's advice with the toe and then just be easy on the exits.
 
As well as rear toe try and Increase rear dampers by a couple of clicks as when you get on the accelerator you are transferring even more weight to an already heavy rear end.

By slowing the rate the rear springs are allowed to compress will stabilize the car out of turns.

If that still doesn't allow you to accelerate out of a turn with confidence add a fully customisable LSD and increase acceleration sensitivity slightly.

When this is done you may be able to floor it out of a turn but you may have some understeer.

If this is the case then soften the front springs by a click or two and or stiffen the rear springs.

Remember to change just one thing at a time and then test so you can always go back if you make things worse.
 
A way I found that works quite well, is to put the diff on 7/6/20 and put some ballast onto the front and shifting the weight balance to get aprox 50-50. The problem with the car is that it RR, so theres a lot of weight at the rear, and all the power goes to the back as well, thus causing oversteer. The only problem with the solution I mentioned is that it starts to gain understeer due to the added weight, this is solved by softening the rear springs, dampers and antiroll bars to let the back out a little more, but in a controlled way and adjusting positive toe to the rear and negative toe on the front, with about 2.0 camber for the front, and 3.0 for the rear.
 
DDAAVVIIDD82
Sarcasm doesn't go over so well on the internet. Good God I hope that was sarcasm.
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That had me laughing. And... well... it's a viable solution to keeping the RUF's rear tires in line... However, it will probably hurt the goal of decreasing your lap times.

I may try it for giggles when I get home from work to see if I can kick out the back with it set to minimal power and maximum traction. However, it will probably hurt the goal of decreasing your lap times.

Seriously, there's a few tunes in the tuner section that have done well for me, but you still need to be careful in any of the RR RUFs.
 
It depends if its a maxed out car. Clueless Tunes, over in the tuning forum has just made some Ruf tunes, and I saw krenkme (from Clueless) made a custom one for the photo competitions. So it never hurts to ask. 👍
 
Add power, then add 150KG or more of ballast to the front of the car, worked for me.
It will remove the joy of the twitchy RR layout car.
 
Take up the challenge!

Learn how you can drive the car instead of changing the car into something you can drive.

Or the tuning forum.
 
I've been primarily running stock cars with all of their default settings around the Nordschleife lately, and believe me, the CTR was more than a handful. As I said before, the best bet is to plan braking points and corner exits as best you can.
 
Spend a few hours trying to tune it. Or if you are like me, just put a ballast on the thing. :sly:

Oh, and throttle control.
 
The Ruf BTR and CTR are both a handful, not good beginners cars if your a beginner.

I ended up restricting the BTR hp to the specs of a Porsche 930 Turbo (330hp) and learned how to drive it and slowly increase it's power to that of the Ruf BTR.
 
Try rear toe 20 and rear camber 3.1, that worked for me. But it wasn't as fun so I put it back to standard.
 
would it be wise to try out a Rear engined car with less power... the Alpine A110... only a 1.6 four pot engine - once you get the feel for that you could try the 3.4 litre flat six BTR with a bit more feel ...maybe

great car to drive anyhow. worth the difficulty of finding the delicate balance of the car, I would say.


As troy Queef may say...

Sensing that this baby wants to play I power into a particularly snickety section of sinew at 110 percent. With an instinctive twitch of the right hoof I snap shut on the gas and feel the RUf’s taut tail step wide. I simply catch it with a dab of oppo and I’m away.
 
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iamsupernasty
I think your best bet is to simply get better at driving.
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This. And it isn't meant to be negative (by me anyway), it's just the simple truth. I used to mash and steer, but then I gradually got away from that technique and now I actually work up to my quickest laps instead of crashing into walls whilst trying to be fast and learning where I need to slow down.
 
Ha ha true. I mean I won the seasonal A-Specs with it so I am not slouching.

I just like to control my vehicles so they behave how I want. At the same time some of the replies here like learn to drive it/learn to love it are not far off.

The more I lap this beast the more I like that there lurks a chance of f'ing things right up.

Also cheers on the tuning advice, I am going to give some of these a go on my other RUF. Keep one ornery and keep one tamed.
 
Fortunately the thing gradually pushes its back end out in most cases, and that can be managed fairly easily if you know it's coming. Frankly, I love hanging it out while going as fast as possible around Parabolica at Monza in the European Championship in Extreme. The thing handles the competition easily in stock trim and I've had it at full lock going nearly 100mph around there.
 
DDAAVVIIDD82
The thing handles the competition easily in stock trim and I've had it at full lock going nearly 100mph around there.
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This, and there is a huge wonderfulness to driving it on the edge of letting go.

I have some turtle beach headphones and the audio feedback is incredible you can hear very subtley how the tires are saying "slow it down you imbecile..."
 
I used two little tricks to get mine "manageable" - Rear toe at +0.35 or even +0.50 and mis-matched tyres. I use a softer compound rear tyre to the front. It forces more grip to the rear whilst lightening the ferocity of the turn in. Someone's already mention the 3 degrees of camber at the rear, which I also use.
Sure, these "fixes" may not be the most genuine solution to the car's "realism", but it can help if you're struggling.
 
lozzy1234567890
A way I found that works quite well, is to put the diff on 7/6/20 and put some ballast onto the front and shifting the weight balance to get aprox 50-50. The problem with the car is that it RR, so theres a lot of weight at the rear, and all the power goes to the back as well, thus causing oversteer. The only problem with the solution I mentioned is that it starts to gain understeer due to the added weight, this is solved by softening the rear springs, dampers and antiroll bars to let the back out a little more, but in a controlled way and adjusting positive toe to the rear and negative toe on the front, with about 2.0 camber for the front, and 3.0 for the rear.
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You don't soften the rear end to get rid of understeer, you soften the front.
 
Tuning shmuning. Better to work on ones technique. Keeping the car balanced is the key with RR cars and some MR such as the Lancia Stratos. No need to resort to tuning or softer tires.
 
Ryk
As troy Queef may say...

Sensing that this baby wants to play I power into a particularly snickety section of sinew at 110 percent. With an instinctive twitch of the right hoof I snap shut on the gas and feel the RUf’s taut tail step wide. I simply catch it with a dab of oppo and I’m away.
Click to expand...

beautiful, just poetry. Who is this dude?
 
Ruf / Porsche = RR engine at the very back of the car so it conteigns most weigt in the back.
Wich is good for putting down the power on the rearwheels. But little weird for handling.
Jeremey "topgear" Clarcson always says it got its engine in the wrong place. (but thats because he hates the fact that german cars are better quality than english :p and something to do with the war to) But the little one Richard Hammond Loves Porsche ...
Jermey is to rusty to learn new things :p
Its a Whole diffrent Driving style then the classic FR setup , Even doesnt compare to MR cars.

Best way to learn in GT5 is with a RUF RGT , its the best handling RUF ingame.
Steering into a corner is a little tricky but u can get the power to the rear wheels quickly going again if u exit in the right angle.

If u manage to master a RUF on the nordschleife it becomes pure Flowing magic :drool:
 
Light steering inputs and soft feet is really the only way in stock trim.
If you have a pad, you're going to really struggle.

Otherwise, ajust your rear toe with some suspension like others have suggested.
It's a good starting point.
 

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