Slower aceleration in gears 1, 2 ,3? The antidote...

[PAPPACLART]

I keep hearing people complain about the slow accelreation of the bikes in the lower gears. I have mentioned a few times within threads of how to cure this, and it is easy.

All you have to do is pull back on the left (steering analog) stick as if you want to do a wheelie. Natrually your bike (if it is the wheelie type) will try to wheelie, in this case you have to be subtle with the analog stick to minimise the wheelie, keep practasing and you will be able to accelerate hard in all of the lower gears. Obviosuly on some bikes this is harder, as particular bikes are more wheelie prone then others.

As an example, to prove the above to yourself. Choose either the Blade, 999R or RSV1000. (harder to wheelie) Pick a straight road, have your rider bolt upright and accelerate through the gears and watch how slowly the speedo will climb.

Now to cure this. Use L2 to pitch rider weight forward then accelerate hard, while pulling back on the left analog stick, trying to minimise a high wheelie of which would be likely to hamper accelration. small wheelies won't be a problem.

Now go play and enjoy your new found BHP.

 

[ttfan]

does this actually work.....i cant tell if it is, i guess it feels a little quicker but that might just be my head, anyone else think this is working.

 

[PAPPACLART]

Yes of course it works, providing you have pro mode swithced on it will work 100%

With just a few attemps, a CRB600 I maneged (with the above tec) 0-60mph 3.40 and 0-100 in 7,10 - Times that are comparible - well nigh-on the same as the real life bike.

Now go pracitce.

👍

 

[dbartucci]

How do you measure your 0-60 times to the tenth of a second?

 

[180bandit]

that doesn't work nor does it make sense.

 

[PAPPACLART]

how do I get 0-60 times.....Well I use my common sense!!!

I do a time trial and postion my bikes front wheel and inch from the start line on a long straight (fuji). I accelerate which make my front wheel pass the start line which then starts the clock. I pause the game when my bike reaches 60mph. I then check my speed against the clock and bob is your uncle I have a 0-60 time!! Do this without pullling back the left analog and the 0-60 time for a CBR600 is more like 6 seconds!!

And yes for the 3rd time in this thread, What I have said in my previous post really DOES work, I have just been playing the game this second and have been enjoying hard acceleration through the gears, from 1st to top!!

I ride a 1000cc motorcycle for REAL and I know how fast one should go!

The only way the above could not be working for you guys is because you don't have it on pro mode, otherwise it should work.

 

[ttfan]

oh ok ill turn pro mode on....see if it works???

 

[pmc40]

oh ok ill turn pro mode on....see if it works???

cant get the times pappaclart is getting, but pulling back does help, if you can keep the front wheel down, im 4.6 secs when pulling back slightly and 5.8when not

 

[PAPPACLART]

cant get the times pappaclart is getting, but pulling back does help, if you can keep the front wheel down, im 4.6 secs when pulling back slightly and 5.8when not

Takes some practice, sometimes having the front quite high helps - drop it then floor it. does take some practice but does work.

The CBR600 tho is not the best bike to use for this as it wheelies easy, use a 999R or CBR1000 blade as when pulling back they are less likely to wheelie - therefore putting the power down.

I ride a Suzuki TL1000S, 1000cc V2. rolling in 1st at say, 20mph and cracking the throttle to achieve maximum acceleration that the bike is capable of is impossible as the bike will just flip, accelerating from second is often faster altho the gear is longer, you can put all of your power down.

What PD have tried to do with this game is represent this but they have not done a good job of it because floring a CBR600 in 1st is far less likely to wheelie compared to a big 1000cc bike. If you use my above tactics on a Hayabusa, yes it will accelerate faster but the Busa still seems to be restricted for some reason, dunno why - perhaps they rushed the game but it works for practically all big bikes. To get the best acceleration out of very wheelie prone bikes is using the analog stick style I have mentioned but at the same time using the touch sensitive properties of the X accelerate button.

I wouldn't be concerned about standing start acceleration. you really should be using the above style when exiting corners or when you want to accelerate to and from corner to corner. If you are leaning over exiting a bend - say a left hander that opens out, have the analog stick point diagnol left, using L2 to crouch the rider and accelerate hard, the bike will then drive from the bend really hard - the bars will sahke and the sensation of speed and acceleration you get will be awsome. Just keep practacing and you will get it, tho you will find yourself at first wheeling from corner to corner most of the time -often landing awkward and heading for the grass. (if you are using wheelie prone bikes) Use either a 999R, RSV, or Blade for best effect then move up to the ZX10R's alike. (wheelie prone bikes)


Good luck

 

[PAPPACLART]

PS


A cheating but unpractical way is keep pressing down on either the D pad or analog stick rapidly -as if you are turning an on and off switch on-and-off really fast. Can do this for standing starts as well.

 

[sinbad]

Does this really work?

If so why the hell did they make it like that? Real riders of fast bikes are constantly trying to keep the front wheel down off the line, so PD decide that they only way for a rider to accelerate properly is by leaning back a little? 👎

 

[Perfect Balance]

Its not leaning back, your acually leaning forward, its just the front wheel comes a little off the ground sometimes. This method puts maximum traction to the back wheel, takes friction off the front wheel, and is more aerodynamic, since the rider is hidden behind the windscreen in this way. It does work, watch a video of a rider in a race, they always do this between corners.

 

[8400RPM]

To clarify, this technique still has you lean forward, but you move your rider further to the rear of the bike which puts more weight over the rear tire thus improving traction. Makes sense.