Speed Junkie's Car Thread (About time I did this)

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Yeah, you made him get wider wheels with a higher offset. Hell the E30 TRM wheels are better fitment than that. And they're still Spec Miata legal which is super duper important of course.
 
Yeah, you made him get wider wheels with a higher offset. Hell the E30 TRM wheels are better fitment than that. And they're still Spec Miata legal which is super duper important of course.

I'll be picking some of those up for the new project. :sly:
 
Yup, 15x7 +25. Still a bit on the light side, but a 15mm spacer should take care of that.
 
Just read the whole thread and all I gotta say is the Miata amazes me from a structural and modding point of view 👍. Sweet catch tank too 👍.
 
So I finally got an "improper exhaust" ticket on saturday. I guess I'll be adding a resonated mid pipe on top of the twin muffler center exit thing :ouch:

Also just realized I didn't mention on my "timeline" that I have the Flyin Miata full butterfly brace. The thing also made a world of difference btw.
 
Yeah, you made him get wider wheels with a higher offset. Hell the E30 TRM wheels are better fitment than that. And they're still Spec Miata legal which is super duper important of course.

Wider wheels with a higher offset, yes, but they still stick out more than the RPF1s would. Also, he doesn't like the TRM wheels, and even then he would be buying the 15x8 ones.
 
Strut braces don't really do much in a Miata. That butterfly brace is more than sufficient.

Yeah but I'd get the Carbing 3 point just for the cool factor. I can totally zip tie an EGR breather braided hose across to a catch tank on the other side when I get ITBs :lol:
 
So I finally got an "improper exhaust" ticket on saturday. I guess I'll be adding a resonated mid pipe on top of the twin muffler center exit thing :ouch:
Your country ass police are ridiculous.
 
Strut braces don't really do much in a Miata. That butterfly brace is more than sufficient.

That's pretty much what I'd heard. Strut brace does nothing for the handling, but cures some of the car's wobbles. Since the butterfly brace fixes both, a strut brace would be a bit redundant.
 
The thing is, the Miata's suspension is double wishbone front and rear, and both control arms are mounted to the subframe. It's not really an issue of one end or the other flexing, it's 90% an issue of both ends not talking to each other because they're connected by a piece of paper.

Still, every little bit counts. If you triangulate the strut towers to each other and the firewall then you've boxed that section and greatly reduced any chance for deflection. If it's available, always get a one-piece welded strut brace that triangulates the firewall. I'd have gotten one but Mazdatrix's piece is like $350 and I didn't even find out about it until I already had mine (which brings the engine into the equation with a near-solid torque brace mounted to the strut brace).
 
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I'll finally be able to use he 01+ TB and have a working IAC valve. Also, no more AFM.
 
So I got the ECU installed and have been driving it around for a couple weeks now. Ive been constantly tuning it and got the main cruising and acceleration part down for now but still havent gotten the car to idle properly. And I know it has something to do with the warmup enrichment. One step at a time I guess.

Finally got my rear lamp today!

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I personally would take that shiny beauty ring off and spray it black. I hate chrome on anything that isn't a luxury car.
 
So it was really nice out today and I took some photos...

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New (to you guys) sticker!

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What the exhaust looks like underneath...

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And no more AFM!
Don't mind the crude IAT sensor solution, but I've been lazy lately to properly install it.

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Also, to give you guys an idea of how bright this thing is...

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Any suggestions on tail light bulbs?
I believe I have Autozone LEDs now.



I also went to take some 0-60 acceleration video but it was windy and you can barely hear the car. So I'll have to go back and take a better one some other time.
 
And how do I keep it from shifting like that?

A couple ways to go about it.

You can put small worm clamps on it.

OR

That's an FM bar correct? (looks like it) I would give them a call, they have corrected that issue and may be willing to replace it free of charge if you bought it from them.
 
That's an FM bar correct? (looks like it) I would give them a call, they have corrected that issue and may be willing to replace it free of charge if you bought it from them.
How does that even happen? Obviously it doesn't, but I would think the bar would seek a central position and naturally stay there.
 
Remember I have heim joint end links so there's nothing keeping the sway bar from shifting side to side. The stock end links with rubber bushings actually provide a good amount of resistance to swaying around. If you look at it from the rear/front, the end links are actually leaning in (like negative camber) which explains why, when one control arm goes up and the other side goes down, it would easily push the bar away. So I'm actually loosing allot of roll resistance because of this.
 
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So I just got my new spray paint cans. Yes im changing the color of the watanabes again. When I first changed the color I was actually 50/50 between the orange and this but went with the orange since I couldn't find a paint code for the other and didn't want to make it look as if I tried and failed, resulting in some turd color.

Anyways, I came across a blog I had found a long time ago but had not visited since and saw on one of his posts that he painted his wheels the "very same" color that I was looking for.

He used Concrete from the Montana Gold series. Turns out Montana Cans is the go-to place for all your hipster artsy needs. They really do make a great product though.

Here are some pics from the guys blog.

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Freshly painted...

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Drying...

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Outside light, fully cured...

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