Static to Motion Moxley's Way 2Dof to 3Dof

532
Canada
Canada
Hey Guys, Finally a compilation of what i came from and where at right now. There's been many guys over the years who have helped with small thing's to Big thing's and want to thank them all the utmost. Without You the Rig wouldn't be what it is today.

I Started out life as a KB racer playing F1 2011 and soon Stepped up to a G27..Wow what a Difference. So worth the 270$ or w/e it cost But as time went on racing in a Desk chair Sucks as im sure All of you will attest to. I tried a few different unique ways to hold the chair in place form Towels to little blocks of wood cut to raise the wheels up of the carpet. While functional to a point there had to be a better way, So I asked a Tuner buddy who builds Crazy turbo Hondas if he had any old race seat's kicking around. 20 minutes later i had a Genuine Sparco Fighter for a whopping 25$....Now here's the catch, It was beat to Shi* and essentially needed a Bed sheet to cover it and forget all the battle Scars, tear's and Poor ass leather patch jobs the seats endured over the years. So build a Basic square box which was eventually modded into this. Legs were attached when the COG became too far back and the seat would fall over. Lol









At this stage i had already dismounted the Stock G27 wheel in favor of a Stripped down Steelseries SRW-S1 which was mounted with a simple CF plate with threads and 4 holes in the wheel base I also retain the stock Shifter's as the S1's are pretty poor and have a weak link in the spring they use, More pics on that can be found here if curious. here


Note, If you want your S1 to survive a decent amount of time under a FFB base, Do this.








Old Bed Sheet Seat with the AeroDesigns Arges which was bought when i realized the Fighter's padding wasn't up to snuff for the long races. yes i could have sourced some Foam or something to freshed it up, But i Always wanted a "wrap around" GT style seat like this and when i found one locally for a decent price it was Far too hard to pass it up. Sparco was sold off to a buddy who also build a static sim for playing GT6.












Next was the Stock Logi pedals, When searching and bring a noobie I saw all these Hydraulic and Load cell brakes and wanted to play with some Rc shock which i happen to have a Whack load of and eventually came up with this. Stock Logitech spring opened up a hair to clip onto the shock collars and 4 of 6 holes glued shut on the pistons on 45wt oil. I also added some AKA tire foam donut onto the shaft to have a real hard point at the end of the stroke while still maintaining Full travel.



While it somewhat worked i felt again there had to be a better way, So after searching a few For sale threads on a few forums, I found Jon aka Basherboards selling a B.N set of clubsport V2's which i promptly snatched up.



Now from having a Rc Racing backround, I knew the stock Fana shock was a POS the second i took it apart to inspect and fill with oil. promptly decided it was to be tossed in favor of something from my 1/8 racer's. The 1/8 Mugen 6 line use the same length shocks for buggy and truggy and I had a spare set of shocks i bought a while back and turns out the rear's almost Drop right on with a Slight bit of modding to the mounting point, which I have to admit I already modded for the stock Shock as the Top of the shock cap was slowly being worn away by the mount. CHECK your shocks I wouldn't doubt if they All have the same wear spot.
After a few days of testing i settled on the stock pistons with 35wt oil and a Kyosho Hard blue spring.

thread for the mounting details can be foundhttp://insidesimracing.tv/forums/topic/12267-club-sport-pedals-v2-shock-replacement-suggestion/ or

http://insidesimracing.tv/forums/topic/11365-clubsport-pedals-2014/








Ok so next dilemma was the fact that the Fana Load cell was overpowering my pedal box and basically making all sorts of creaks and cracks under load, The rear pedal box posts essentially butted up to the 2 corner angles of the back of the desk and would sometimes go a little crooked if you hammered on the brakes, I wasn't allowed to Drill through the carpet and into the Hardwood underneath so the next quest started, A new PC build, New 47" Samsung and New 5.1 Pioneer setup for my room downstairs which has room for an actual Rig. So the Rig build begins.


The Step Up, was to compensate for a Large Metal Shelving unit the TV sits on and to get the Rig as Close to the TV as possible.

Base and pedal box attached with new Raiser for the wheel base.
Base was left Long to allow a 8" powered sub to sit right behind the seat.






1000$ budget for the PC build and we got the Final bill to 999.95$ with a few extra manager discounts thrown in at the last minute, (Thanks MemoryExpress)

Tv also came from them, Samsung 47" 1080HD 120 for a whopping 450$ also after manager discounts due to being the Last one...>Score.






I kept the PC upstairs and Ran a 24' HDMI and 2 10' USB extensions to my Room downstairs. Got a powered USB hub and have Just enough ports to do what im up to Currently, might need to add a 2nd Hub.


So here's the finished product basically what i had envisioned and it allowed me to get my eyes to within 26"(i think) of the TV for a decent FOV.



 
After a little while i felt i wanted to get rid of the basically unused shelving unit the Tv sits on and get a Articulating TV mount. So I found a Mount locally that Extends a whopping 27" and was only 99$ So I disassembled the Shelf and went ahead to mount the Tv, Used part of the old shelf for the Amp/PVR rack on the right. The Speaker mounts were made from some thin plexi glass i bent with a heat gun and bolted to the TV mount.













At this point you can see Fanatec gear in the background. After building the new rig and all this work into the overall project I decided it was finally time to Invest in a wheel, The G27 did me proud and will hang on to it for maybe a future project. So after many weeks of waiting for the black friday sale which never really took place, I made my order the day After black friday, Couple weeks later my CSW base and rims showed up, Shifter was to arrive about a month later.



Over the holidays I also Bought a Buttkicker Gamer 2 kit which has been an Awesome addition to the Rig, I plan to go with a Simulation Starter kit in the near future after the current project has wrapped up.






Next up was the Keyboard and Mouse Tray, I had an old swivel mount tray thingy before that with the addition of the CSS wouldn't work anymore so i Fabricated my own articulating mounts.









CSS mount



About a year after buying the pedals from Jon, I popped the load cell and decided to DIY it. Load cells are available on Ebay for dirt cheap also the connector's you need.




This being some of the most recent addition's, SRW S1 as a button box, while retaining the Gas paddle as a E brake (pending the game)
Also a Acer Tablet for an extra button box if needed or a HUD showing whatever.





 
Static to motion you say..... well where's the motion you ask. Its coming....>REAL soon.


These pics should give a Good indication as to what im up to.


47A 575w Server Power supplies from Ebay for a whopping 12.50$ Along with a pair of Pololu JRK 12v12's





10mm Rod ends again from Ebay for 11$ free shipping with Lever's and Holes drilled for direct mount 360deg hall effect pots.



Motor's are 12/24V 200w, 20Nm






And Finally the Joint and the seat. CV has been angle mounted to match the 10 deg angle of the stock seating position.











Currently as of today I'm in the middle of rebuilding the Base to ensure it's as sturdy and solid as possible, Gluing and Screwing everything. Paint job is 1/2 done on the base and all the little bits and parts are being painted as well, Tomorrow I might just have the Seat Mounted on the frame and then on the base. Very excited to say the least.


Paint in Progress



Seat Mounted and final measuring for rear arms.








And thats Up to today, Arms should be done tomorrow or Tuesday and might have this up and running come Wednesday/Thursday. Freekin excited to say the least.
 
Freaking awesome! Amazing job, loving seeing the whole evolution of the rig too. Definitely thanks for the detail too. Are you using Simxperience to run it?
 
I love when things can be done cheaper with DIY. Great build thread and thanks for posting. Also, cool nitro offroader in the background!


Thanks, I feel it will all be worth it in the end.....and oh there's a lot more of them in the workshop. Explore my Photobucket, its Mostly Rc.



Freaking awesome! Amazing job, loving seeing the whole evolution of the rig too. Definitely thanks for the detail too. Are you using Simxperience to run it?


Thanks, I surprise even myself with some of the crap i come up with Lol. No not SimX, but Simtools, 55 Supported title's and I have a few Buddy's who can walk me through the setup and get me going.

Motion setup can be easily done for roughly 1000$ or under, Im at about 650 or so but haven't paid my welder yet for the frame and final tacks on the rear arms, So we'll see what he ding's me tomorrow or Tuesday when i get over there.
 
Well the second i mounted the motor's to the mounts and mounted them to the rig, I knew the stock Angle iron wasn't up to snuff, So after getting thing's up and running this morning (and a bit of fun time) I tore it all apart and made these. IF these still flex, Ill have to go back to the drawing board on how to mount things. lol

Stock Vs Upgrade.

















New Motor mounts are Super Sturdy, Had a few test session's with a buddy who's 220lbs vs my 150lbs and managed to get the chip up to 180 before getting scared and calling it quits. Stupid heat sinks I ordered have yet to arrive but I called a Computer geek buddy who happen to have a bag FULL of assorted sizes and shapes, So I Now have the small squares installed for a testing session and will be modding the larger one's to fit if the one's I ordered don't show up any time soon.




Small heatsinks brought temps down to 110 which is more than acceptable for the mean time.







Next up was the shifter mount, I couldn't stand having my CSS sitting there staring me in the face not being used, So i went to work using the old motor mount angle iron. Here's what i came up with. Drilled and tapped the Seat riser using 4mm cap heads from my RC stuff and managed to get it Exactly where i had it before. Its also Uber sturdy like it was before.





 
update,



Latest Addition is proving to be difficult, After speaking with Tech support they think something's up with the amp and thats the reason these new LFE's feel like duds. I can Barely feel them mounted Directly to the Seat Frame.



 
So On Saturday i had my first official test session with 2 "lfe's" on the seat bolts and my Gamer 2 on the seat frame. HOLY CRACKERS!!!!! Thats what i was looking for/expecting from the LFE's. Vibration's that will make your eye balls shake to the point of not being able to read text. One thing i noticed was the LFE's on the seat bolt are in a completely different Fq range than the Gamer 2 on the Seat frame. Kinda cool to be able to cover a larger spectrum of the Low end Stuff.




I also re did my motor locks, the Bent flat bar i had before would prevent the arms from Dropping down, but wouldn't prevent the arms from Going UP when i sat forward in the chair to reach something. SO i came up with these.

Open



Locked

 
Got me some New Rod ends in, Wow MUCHOS Better quality VS the Ebay units i first tried. And The best part is they were just as cheap and the exact same threading, So Very little modifying needed. All that needed doing was to shorten the Threaded bolt to allow my motor locks to lock into place.
These ends also have quite a few more degrees of freedom Vs the Other style Rod ends. So that will be a benefit to not have to use washer's or shims to prevent the ends from binding.

here what I got.

http://www.aliexpres...1559309095.html

and here's them Installed.



 
Little update on buddy John's rig. The build is all done just need to play with the PID setting's on these new motor's. Ill have more complete pics next time i swing by.









ive Also gotten my Seat belts all sorted out with some spring tension. Im rather happy with it so far.










 
Most recent Mod,







Thought i was going to go this route with the funnel's but decided differently









Ice Cream pail is where its at, lol







1 1/2" drain pipe







2 main Runs come up the side and feed 2 vents which cover my chest, One run on the floor of the pedal box which will cover my legs.













the 4th line goes right to the back side of the pedals to keep my Feet cool,







and here's the Bucket air box in its glory. I wanted to tuck it Under the pedal plate but the "suction" from the fan rendered the "leg" vent moot, Just sucked back all the air it was trying to blow.



 
superslowme, You can build this for cheaper than 800$ for sure.

the break down in parts needed is as follows.

Motor's X2 (either 25:1 or 50:1 are only 89$) From Ebay
JRK's 99$ a pop and you need 2 of them From Pololu
120mm Fan 10$ to cool JRK's along with a pair of heat sinks Also from Ebay 2$ for the pair.
Power supplies 15$ a pop and again u need 2. Ebay
Hall effect pots X2 are 15$ a pop Newark Element14
Rod ends 15$ a set Aliexpress
Steering U joint or Drive shaft U joint. 15$ at the wreck yard.

Thats the basic stuff you need, the rest is basically nuts, bolts, Wire and Steel for the Seat frame/ U joint and a couple pieces of 5mm thick flat bar for the levers. You'll also need to fabricate a Pot mount of sorts pending how you go about mounting the motors.

Next comes the style of frame you want, Seat mover with shoulder mount, Seat mover with Front mounted motor's or a Full Frame Style.

Software is available http://www.xsimulator.net/community/ and there's Tonnes of help out there to get things set up and running properly.










Motors
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313&_nkw=Crab pot motor&_sacat=0


JRK's
http://www.pololu.com/product/1393

Power Supplies
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-DPS-600P...=US_Server_Power_Supplies&hash=item35dc60218c

Pots
http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/6127V1A360L.5FS/987-1393-ND/2620662

Rod Ends
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/4pcs...ight-hand-tie-rod-end-bearing/1559309095.html

Heatsinks for JRK
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260934948258?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
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hi Nick,

why not using a arduino board as a motor controller?? they are cheaper then the pololu's me thinks...:D

anyways, nice project man...sweet !! :bowdown:
 
hi Nick,

why not using a arduino board as a motor controller?? they are cheaper then the pololu's me thinks...:D

anyways, nice project man...sweet !! :bowdown:


Id rather not deal with writing codes and Also ive been told that an Arduino can actually run the motor without any Pot Limits(In an Error Situation) which can lead to rig damage pending your lever/motor setup.

$ for $ the extra u spend on JRK's are worth it in the end for what they are capable of doing compared to the Arduino.
 
Would it be more work + cost more to make a motion rig that can actually move only horizontally?

Just ask cause honestly I have no knowledge of these motion rigs at all and have barely even read about them, I´m using a 120" screen + projector when I race so that thing cannot move with the rig at all so just interested in a slight side movement to simulate loss of grip at this point, but who knows after the Oculus Rift have been released in a sharp version everything could change? :)
 
Static screen is moot, Doesn't have to be attached to the rig nor do i suggest it with a seat mover.

Technically yes you could do a simple Traction loss frame and that's it but imo whats the point. There's nothing difficult about a 2dof seat mover, Your sitting on a U joint at the COG. The hardware you would need for traction loss is the same as for your other 5 Axis. (pitch, roll, heave, sway, surge) So IMO do how im doing it. set up the seat mover first, THEN once you've gained the knowledge from that build, Traction loss is easy peezy.
 
Ok I see, thanks for input. Although won´t build anything atm this require some planning + and money (after all what´s considered cheap is relative to what you have right?)

I´m not a small boy so would probably have to go with more powerful gear at that, but biggest problem apart from the money needed is probably that I have no access to tools for welding or even work space and so on..

Would be very nice to one of these though
 
wut
Say-Wut-kowalski-13374208-1024-768.jpg
 
Lol @ lemans,

What needs to pivot at the front and roll on Caster's at the back............YAW baby, Aka Traction loss.

Motor spacer out of 3/4" hardboard and 12" lazy susan



Main Gear Axle(will be changed to a 17-19T Vs the 14T i started out with, Turns out Im over my 360deg of rotation on my 360 hall effect pot im planning on using, So bigger motor gear= less Rotation on the pot. 17T is real close and want to have a little "head room" so as to not have to worry about hitting that "dead" spot on the pot.



Idle Gear and main gear Pre welding



the gear spacing setup im planning on running

 
As per the Pot i plan to run, I had to alternatively go with a larger gear (19T) to keep my rotation within the window i want. In turn I needed a larger Hub to weld onto, The Thing weighed a Tonne so went to buddy's place and played on his mill and lathe for a good hour or so.

The end result,




THE FINAL Gearing setup, Ive drilled the idle bolt and motor hole in the base already, so im 100% committed to this setup.

 
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