Steering Wheel Accessory Wiring (Solution Found)

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pilmat

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I've just ordered a SLI-M from Bodnar and a wheel plate from DSD. The pate will be 6-8 buttons plus the SLI-M. How are you guys wiring the SLI-M with a type B USB so that the installation is clean and that the wires do not "load" the steering wheel?

The wheel with the plate will look a little like this (with a smaller, flat steering wheel):
The SLI-M has the USB off the LHS so the cable will go once around the wheel before going back towards the wheel (maybe wired down the wheel shaft and through the G27 housing?). Are there flexible USB wires, like a telephone spiraled wire? This is what we use in the race cars for PTT and AIM dashes.

Thoughts? :)
 
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:)

Need to undust it right now, I usually don't even see that with the rather bad light in my room.
 
I've just ordered a SLI-M from Bodnar and a wheel plate from DSD. The pate will be 6-8 buttons plus the SLI-M. How are you guys wiring the SLI-M with a type B USB so that the installation is clean and that the wires do not "load" the steering wheel?

The wheel with the plate will look a little like this (with a smaller, flat steering wheel):
The SLI-M has the USB off the LHS so the cable will go once around the wheel before going back towards the wheel (maybe wired down the wheel shaft and through the G27 housing?). Are there flexible USB wires, like a telephone spiraled wire? This is what we use in the race cars for PTT and AIM dashes.

Thoughts? :)

Can I ask you if you lost ffb strength with this wheel?
thanks
 
Can I ask you if you lost ffb strength with this wheel?
thanks

It's a 350mm Momo Mod 08 wheel. No, it's not that you lose strength, it's that it is a lot smoother and "softer". It's awesome for oval racing as you can feed the car in and out with much more precision. My issue is for road courses, especially in change of direction corners, that it is a long way to turn for the amount of input you need.

The wheel I'm looking at for my rig is a 320mm, still quite a bit bigger than the stock 275mm G27 wheel. Maybe a 300 would be better...
 
It's a 350mm Momo Mod 08 wheel. No, it's not that you lose strength, it's that it is a lot smoother and "softer". It's awesome for oval racing as you can feed the car in and out with much more precision. My issue is for road courses, especially in change of direction corners, that it is a long way to turn for the amount of input you need.

The wheel I'm looking at for my rig is a 320mm, still quite a bit bigger than the stock 275mm G27 wheel. Maybe a 300 would be better...
Yes,a 300 wheel would be perfect for me too!
thanks
 
Looks great, just the button and shifter seem a little far away from the rim.
I ordered the same DSD mini plate for my CSR Elite Momo combi.
 
Looks great, just the button and shifter seem a little far away from the rim.
I ordered the same DSD mini plate for my CSR Elite Momo combi.

:lol: Yep, the paddles are a bit far :) This set-up is for oval driving, so the oval cars we use (NASCAR type) are gated shifter models. We will make bent extensions for the paddles though. The buttons are not actually that far away, you need to think about it, but they are easily accessible from the rim.

That set-up is on a 4 post DBox system. I'll get some better photos of the whole thing when we finish the wiring. I also inherited the display stand and it is a bit rough. We have a design for new ones, we just need to find some time to make them :)
 
Send the USB cable through the shaft:

http://www.thewayiplay.com/mainforum/index.php?topic=2100.0

http://jlvrh.de/G27_UK.htm

The installation is extensive, but the cable will not wrap around the shaft.

d

Cheers Derek! (of course the wheel plate, long shift paddles and wheel adapter are coming from him :D)

I'm wondering if I should have ordered the SLI-M without the USB connector :confused: I am quite handy with a soldering iron and would easily be able to add the 5 connections (4 wires and ground)...
 
Got my SLI-M and DSR adapter and plate today :) These will go onto the OMP Superturismo wheel.

I've pulled the G27 apart (again :)) and am now trying to figure out how to get the USB cable through the pinion at the end of the steering tube :confused: I bored out the back of the wheel hub, but the pinion is too small to get into with my trusty Dremel :scared:

How are you guys getting the cable through there? Do I snip off the end of the USB and then solder the wires to the SLI (should have ordered the one without the USB connector!)?


Pinion from Outside by pilmat, on Flickr


Pinion from Inside by pilmat, on Flickr​
 
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Found a solution :)

I initially thought about wiring externally, but with a 900 degree wheel that calibrates itself with a full 900 degree swing ever start-up this was crazy :crazy:

I went back to Derek's suggestion to wire the SLI-M through the wheel shaft. I used an old Apple 30 pin USB and cut the 30 pin connector off. Then I stripped back the rubbery plastic sheath to fit between the SLI_M and the exit of the pinion. This made the two wires fit nice and loosely through the pinion (the second wire runs the wheel mounted PCB). Then I soldered the cut end to the SLI-M's external USB soldering holes (right below the USB connector).

Here are a couple iPhone photos of the finished product (my camera is at work...). I still have to mount and solder in the 8 DSD plate buttons, but the 2 wheel buttons are functional (right and left look buttons).


If anybody would like a more detailed explanation with pics of how I did this, just ask :)
 
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