T300 calibration issues

  • Thread starter D_Dragline
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D_Dragline

D_Dragline

1,668
Australia
Australia
I am having a persistent problem with the T300RS GT with T3PA pedals using the conical mod.

The issue is twofold. Sometimes when I restart the game, the pedals won’t calibrate correctly. Either the brake will refuse to recognize that 30% depressed is maximum braking or, 0 input will register as anything up to 5% braking, or the accelerator will only register max input of 95ish% or any combination of these. Other times the initial calibration will work well but then, seemingly randomly, one or both pedals will no longer register 100% input.

I use the new calibration function but it doesn’t help. I have tried unplugging the usb, unplugging the power and/or unplugging the pedals from the wheel. These sometimes fix the problem but sometimes they seem to make it worse.

It can’t be a physical issue with the pedals or it would happen all the time. I have the current version of firmware updated anx the pedals register perfectly normally on the PC calibration software.

Anyone else having similar issues or know a fix for this? It is invredibky frustrating when it happens during a race.
 
It sounds like a Potentiometer Issue, although you say it only happens with GT7.
Hmm.
I had the same Issue while I was using the same Setup a long time ago.
I had a similar issue with my Brake Pedal too in GTS, but only occasionally.
Same as you I was using the t3pa with the conical mod.
It was starting to annoy me when I finally decided to switch to the TLCM Pedals.
Never happened since I had them.
Anyway now I’m using the DDPRO.
 
FOG-Smokebeer
Just gt7 or other games as well ?? i would blow the dust out the pots before trying anything else
Click to expand...
Only GT7. I have used compressed air and contact cleaner on the pots and housing. It can’t be a physical problem because it will come in in the middle of a session and a reset of the wheel fixes it (or sometimes make it much worse).
 
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D_Dragline
Only GT7. I have used compressed air and contact cleaner on the pots and housing. It can’t be a physical problem because it will come in in the middle of a session and a reset of the wheel fixes it (or sometimes make it much worse).
Click to expand...
I wouldn't completely rule out a physical problem though, even if it sometimes works properly, sometimes not ectr. it may be component fatigue/wear and/or damaged soldering of one or more components.
If the regulations for online trading in your country are similar to those we have here, then my advice would be with the big A.... just order the T-LCM and test whether it works... But be careful... you might like them ;P and then you might not care if it was the pedals or whatever.
 
PirovacBoy
It sounds like a Potentiometer Issue, although you say it only happens with GT7.
Hmm.
I had the same Issue while I was using the same Setup a long time ago.
I had a similar issue with my Brake Pedal too in GTS, but only occasionally.
Same as you I was using the t3pa with the conical mod.
It was starting to annoy me when I finally decided to switch to the TLCM Pedals.
Never happened since I had them.
Anyway now I’m using the DDPRO.
Click to expand...

xMAXIx79
I wouldn't completely rule out a physical problem though, even if it sometimes works properly, sometimes not ectr. it may be component fatigue/wear and/or damaged soldering of one or more components.
If the regulations for online trading in your country are similar to those we have here, then my advice would be with the big A.... just order the T-LCM and test whether it works... But be careful... you might like them ;P and then you might not care if it was the pedals or whatever.
Click to expand...

I’m actually starting to wonder if it could be an earthing issue in the pedals? I had a really strange one where the brake and throttle were constantly registering at around 5% with no pressure. It was like there was a constant voltage bleed. This would also explain them not registering to 100% in GT7 since a spike would recalibrate to an unobtainable value under normal use.

I have been considering getting T3PM pedals as replacements. Are the LCMs worth the extra coin?
 
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D_Dragline
I’m actually starting to wonder if it could be an earthing issue in the pedals? I had a really strange one where the brake and throttle were constantly registering at around 5% with no pressure. It was like there was a constant voltage bleed. This would also explain them not registering to 100% in GT7 since a spike would recalibrate to an unobtainable value under normal use.

I have been considering getting T3PM pedals as replacements. Are the LCMs worth the extra coin?
Click to expand...
Just my opinion... you can't get anywhere near comparable pedals from any other manufacturer for the money. You have to get used to the LCM, since they work via the LC.. but since they are so extremely flexible and adaptable to personal needs, they "grow" with your needs.

There are loads of reviews of these pedals out there, but in a nutshell.

-Flexible stand-alone usable on the PC

-Completely freely configurable on the PC using our own calibration software

-Can also be physically adapted to personal needs through a wide variety of combinations of spring force and pedal pads

-If the springs are not strong enough, there are other ways to increase the spring force in the aftermarket

-Processing and value, according to AT LEAST the price range and are really high quality

-Sufficient mounting options for maximum flexibility

BTW: The pedals should definitely be fastened / fixed, as depending on the setting, a fairly high brake pressure is required here.
 
Have you checked RJ45 connector of the pedals which connects to the wheel base ? Mine is somewhat broken and pedals register constant 30% input if connector is wrongly connected. The fix for me is push it firmly to the base, and at some position it works as it should.
 
D_Dragline
I’m actually starting to wonder if it could be an earthing issue in the pedals? I had a really strange one where the brake and throttle were constantly registering at around 5% with no pressure. It was like there was a constant voltage bleed. This would also explain them not registering to 100% in GT7 since a spike would recalibrate to an unobtainable value under normal use.

I have been considering getting T3PM pedals as replacements. Are the LCMs worth the extra coin?
Click to expand...
From what i know GT7 seems to reset the wheel every time you rejoin the track so if the issue isn't constant like the pots or like you say electric issue it would be different every time you try. Check all the wire's i guess make sure none have been bent or trapped my old wheel gave me issues because i had bent the leads to much overtime they gave up ..oops
 
Well, whatever this is it's now reached the point where I've raised a ticket with Thrustmaster support. As of today I can no longer get either the brake or throttle to register 100%, even in the calibration software in Windows. I guess it must have been the pots/earth all along, but only intermittently.

The whole system is only 8 months old, so we will see what TM have to say for themselves.
 
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D_Dragline
Well, whatever this is it's now reached the point where I've raised a ticket with Thrustmaster support. As of today I can no longer get either the brake or throttle to register 100%, even in the calibration software in Windows. I guess it must have been the pots/earth all along, but only intermittently.

The whole system is only 8 months old, so we will see what TM have to say for themselves.
Click to expand...
Just a follow up. After some to and fro, TM requested a video demonstrating my issues. I sent it and they responded by saying there is no service centre in my region so I should return the wheel to where I bought it for replacement.

I guess this means it’s just a faulty unit. But it continues to bug me that it’s such a strange and intermittent problem. I’m now deciding whether to return the whole thing or just buy some LCM pedals.
 
D_Dragline
Just a follow up. After some to and fro, TM requested a video demonstrating my issues. I sent it and they responded by saying there is no service centre in my region so I should return the wheel to where I bought it for replacement.

I guess this means it’s just a faulty unit. But it continues to bug me that it’s such a strange and intermittent problem. I’m now deciding whether to return the whole thing or just buy some LCM pedals.
Click to expand...
If you really really enjoy playing Racing Games, I’d suggest to bite the Bullet and go for the TLCM Pedals.
They are great.
Good quality Build and transforms your Racing Experience to a whole new Level.
It’s much more intuitive and immersive to drive with a Load Cell Pedal and the Accelerator Pedal is more precise too.
I used the T3PA for many many years, but after I switched to the TLCM Set I would never ever wanted to go back.
They are not cheap I know, but imo they are absolutely worth every Cent.

It’s up to you how much you care about your Hobby, but if your main Goal is to increase the Level of immersion then I say go for it.
A nice side Effect will be that you‘ll also improve your Overall Pace and Consistency too.
So yeah, it’s a Win Win Thing…

And most importantly I never had a single Issue with them.
And I played a lot, like way too much 😅
 
D_Dragline
Only GT7. I have used compressed air and contact cleaner on the pots and housing. It can’t be a physical problem because it will come in in the middle of a session and a reset of the wheel fixes it (or sometimes make it much worse).
Click to expand...

Mine have been doing the same lately, when they stick, just unplug the pedals from the back on the wheelbase, then reconnect them. It seems to be the quickest fix I’ve found so far.
 
Pigems
Mine have been doing the same lately, when they stick, just unplug the pedals from the back on the wheelbase, then reconnect them. It seems to be the quickest fix I’ve found so far.
Click to expand...
Yeah, sometimes this fixes them, sometimes not. It's like there's an internal wheel calibration system which conflicts with the GT calibration system. I'm sometimes taking 30 minutes of resetting, unplugging and replugging before it will finally stabilise. Once it's stabilised I have no trouble until I turn it off again.

My lingering fear is that I buy LCMs and it turns out to be the wheelbase that has the problem.
 
D_Dragline
Yeah, sometimes this fixes them, sometimes not. It's like there's an internal wheel calibration system which conflicts with the GT calibration system. I'm sometimes taking 30 minutes of resetting, unplugging and replugging before it will finally stabilise. Once it's stabilised I have no trouble until I turn it off again.

My lingering fear is that I buy LCMs and it turns out to be the wheelbase that has the problem.
Click to expand...

The TLCM’s seem fine, I didn’t start having this issue until I built the second rig, and started using my old pedals(T3PA’s) again on it.
 
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Got my LCMs today. Bad news, I think it’s my T300 hub that’s faulty. It won’t register the LCMs at all.

I have plugged them into the pc to check and they register ok there. (Although the calibration tool is absolutely useless on a surface pro. Can’t change any settings.)

When I plug them straight into the hub, nothing. Weirdly, if I leave the LCM’s usb plugged into the surface pro, they will register in-game, but only to about 60%.

It’s like the wheel won’t detect the pedals without an independent power source or something?

Hub will be going back to where I bought it on the weekend. We’ll see what happens.

I am pretty disgusted with this whole TM experience to be honest.
 
Pigems
The TLCM’s seem fine, I didn’t start having this issue until I built the second rig, and started using my old pedals(T3PA’s) again on it.
Click to expand...
I got told by TM the below,
Do you have a racing rig or a carpet? If you do, the issue could be caused by static discharge, as some rigs/carpets are prone to building up static electricity, which could be discharging at the pedal, causing it to get stuck at 100% or 50%
Helped once I placed non insulated mats.
 

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