T300 Repair

  • Thread starter camasaki
  • 34 comments
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Can this wheel be fixed?


  • Total voters
    8
23
Switzerland
Switzerland
I naively bought a used, broken T300 wheel to try and repair it as a companion to my T500RS.

As I don't have a T300 wheel I just fitted the T500 wheel for the moment assuming they're the same. Most of what I experience applies when the wheel is removed:

What's working:
  • Wheel powers on when USB connects (internal PSU apparently OK)
  • Windows driver installed and recognises wheel
  • Firmware Update apparently successful
  • Red mode light appears
  • Tension of belt looks decent after adjusting
  • Cables int/ext look sound
The switch is set to PS3.

What's NOT working:
  • Wheel calibration routine kinda lamely runs through but not convincingly fast as compared to T500
  • Control Panel does not detect angle of wheel
  • Control Panel cannot apply any Force Feedback actions
  • No buttons react in control panel
  • Wheel kind jerks pathetically when turned
So I'd like to start testing components and doing a diagnosis of what needs replacing.

Ideas, guides, links welcome!

My feeling is the main board is probably shot AND/OR the motor's position sensor is faulty.

Where is the rotational sensor?

What is the PCB mounted to the end (back) of the motor's axle?
IMG-3262.JPG

Also, the fan runs constantly which I guess is good for cooling but may indicate a faulty thermostat?
 
Just tried the calibration software but it's getting nothing much done except a slight wiggle in the wheel.
If I loosen the Hall sensor and wiggle it the wheel wiggles in time.
 
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Sounds a lot like this issue which was the motor:
I purchased a broken t300rs gt for 95$ because they said it didn't power on and I thought I would just need to fix or replace the PSU. Instead it's a motor issue. Waiting on my parents to send up my multimeter to track down the issue for sure, but the wheel basically just clicks and moves slightly, and will pull against turning it for just small periods of time. It does not calibrate. Even with the belts disconnected the motor just barely moves.
 
00:00.0] Start Motor Calibration (u=0.05).
00:00.0] Waiting for Auto-Calibration...
00:16.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.34527), Res:1...
00:32.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.42303), Res:1...
00:48.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.50080), Res:1...
01:04.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.57857), Res:1...
01:20.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.65633), Res:1...
01:36.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.73410), Res:1...
01:52.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.81187), Res:1...
02:08.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.88963), Res:1...
02:24.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.96740), Res:1...
02:40.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.04517), Res:1...
02:56.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.12293), Res:1...
03:12.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.20070), Res:1...
03:28.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.27847), Res:1...
03:44.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.35623), Res:1...
04:00.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.43400), Res:1...
04:16.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.51177), Res:1...
04:32.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.58953), Res:1...
04:48.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.66730), Res:1...
05:04.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.74507), Res:1...
05:20.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.82283), Res:1...
05:36.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.90060), Res:1...
05:52.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.97837), Res:1...
06:08.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.05613), Res:1...
06:24.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.13390), Res:1...
06:40.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.21167), Res:1...
06:56.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.28943), Res:1...
07:12.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.36720), Res:1...
07:28.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.44497), Res:1...
07:44.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.52273), Res:1...
08:00.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.60050), Res:1...
08:16.0] Helping the wheel to Auto-Calibrate (0.67827), Res:1...
08:16.6] Wheel Auto-Calibration exit, can start to find the solution.
08:18.8] Stall detected, retry (u=0.31).
08:20.4] Stall detected, retry (u=0.57).
08:21.9] Stall detected, retry (u=0.83).
08:23.5] Stall detected, retry (u=0.09).
08:25.0] Stall detected, retry (u=0.35).
08:26.6] Stall detected, retry (u=0.61).
08:28.2] Stall detected, retry (u=0.87).
08:29.7] Stall detected, retry (u=0.13).
08:31.3] Stall detected, retry (u=0.39).
08:32.9] Stall detected, retry (u=0.65).
08:34.4] Stall detected, retry (u=0.91).
08:36.0] Not sure about the Direction, retry it...
08:37.6] Not sure about the Direction, retry it...
08:39.3] Not sure about the Direction, retry it...
08:40.9] Stall detected, retry (u=0.32).
08:42.5] Right Direction, place to center...
08:46.1] Using u=0.3210 Result=1.651 (P:1.75, N:1.70, Delta=0.050)
08:48.6] Using u=0.3930 Result=-0.018 (P:0.56, N:1.14, Delta=0.580)
08:50.9] Using u=0.3680 Result=1.408 (P:1.43, N:1.46, Delta=0.023)
08:53.5] Using u=0.3430 Result=0.764 (P:1.12, N:1.47, Delta=0.354)
08:53.5] Approximation Found: 0.3210 (R=1.651, Delta=0.050)
 

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So, after 8min of calibration the wheel seems to be alive. I can send it FFB commands from the Control Panel but they're weak as ... even though they're set to 100%.

Motor is warm, not hot to the touch.
 
I have a broken t300 which i bought for parts back when i was in TM ecosystem. I am thinking to repair it just for fun and for using it as a back up wheel. It turns on but it can not calibrate itself at all. It keeps turning to stops full power and never stops.
I asked TM to send me parts but they only allow me to send it for repair. The cost is way to high cause shipping.
I saw asteroulis link with the motor and i am thinking could my issue be a motor failure or a pcb failure?
What do you think?
 
I have a broken t300 which i bought for parts back when i was in TM ecosystem. I am thinking to repair it just for fun and for using it as a back up wheel. It turns on but it can not calibrate itself at all. It keeps turning to stops full power and never stops.
I asked TM to send me parts but they only allow me to send it for repair. The cost is way to high cause shipping.
I saw asteroulis link with the motor and i am thinking could my issue be a motor failure or a pcb failure?
What do you think?

Does it turn back and forth constantly?

Have you tried the calibration software?
 
Hi i have been looking at the t300 the past few weeks and thought i need to post my findings...
Calibration issues:
Dont use the software tools its pointless..

If the wheel moves left to right at speed and power and wont ever calibrate then the magnet on the back of the motor is in the wrong place and the chances are it has twisted a small amount. It and the cog on the front on the motor has to be perfectly allined to calibrate.. That took me a while if figure but its as simple as that.. Super glue it. In place after..

The next fault is loss of power and slow calibration, one or the other.. The motor has come apart inside and needs. To be locked back in place.. The main shaft is surrounded buy a tube of Magnet and this comes loose.. Take apart motor and use 2pack adhesives to stick back in place.. It will be good as new..

Most problems with the thrustmaster is the parts wear and the soldering is shoddy.. They seem low quality under wr the hood.
 
Hi i have been looking at the t300 the past few weeks and thought i need to post my findings...
Calibration issues:
Dont use the software tools its pointless..

If the wheel moves left to right at speed and power and wont ever calibrate then the magnet on the back of the motor is in the wrong place and the chances are it has twisted a small amount. It and the cog on the front on the motor has to be perfectly allined to calibrate.. That took me a while if figure but its as simple as that.. Super glue it. In place after..

The next fault is loss of power and slow calibration, one or the other.. The motor has come apart inside and needs. To be locked back in place.. The main shaft is surrounded buy a tube of Magnet and this comes loose.. Take apart motor and use 2pack adhesives to stick back in place.. It will be good as new..

Most problems with the thrustmaster is the parts wear and the soldering is shoddy.. They seem low quality under wr the hood.
Do you have any pics or links to video etc to show what you are explaining at all? Like how do you know the cog and motor are aligned? How do you take apart the motor to access the main shaft and magnet?

Any help would be awesome as my wheel has just lunched itself. Wont calibrate and has no FFB.
 
Do you have any pics or links to video etc to show what you are explaining at all? Like how do you know the cog and motor are aligned? How do you take apart the motor to access the main shaft and magnet?

Any help would be awesome as my wheel has just lunched itself. Wont calibrate and has no FFB.


I havent but its very simple once you see what i mean. If you look at the back of the motor there is a board, this is the encoder board and that little chip in the center counts the rotations of the motor shaft. If you remove the black housing the board is mounted on then you will see the black plastic part attached to the motor shaft. It has a magnet at the end and it just puches on to the motor shaft.. This is the part that becomes loose. If it is not loose then the belt may of slipped causing the misalignment..
Best way to do it is glue that back in, mount the motor tighten the belt a littlw bit and turn it all on.. On every calibration attempt that fails then lift the belt and move 3 teeth left, untill it calibrates then mive the belt one tooth f
To fine tune.. Easy.. It wont end up calibrating to the centre bit that can be manually done after you back up driving. Gte t300 hold scroll+rignt paddle and mode to manual calibrate..
 
Hi, I'm very new to this Forum, meaning to find a solution for my T300rs GT, it's been having similar issue like on this utube video , after being stuck and hum for 30 sec to a minute, the motor and the PSU starts to get hot, and shut it self down. I got this issue while I was playing dirt rally 2.0 on default FFB settings for after 2 hours. does anyone know what causes the issue? Is it a bad motor or a bad PSU? and what is the possible fix for this? Sending the wheel to thrustmaster to be fix is not a possible option for me, because I live in Indonesia and we don't have any service center here also. hope someone can help me with this. thank you:)
 
Hi yeah its a motor fault. The centre spindle is not spinning and slipping when the motor tries to turn. You need to strip it down and re glue it. Common fault with these. Before you do that its worth checking the encoder at the back of the motor. If the black plastic cradle has craked or the magnet has come loose on the back then it can also do that. It normally make that noise if the magnet is too far away from the encoder so hopefully it will be that instead of the motor.
 
Hi yeah its a motor fault. The centre spindle is not spinning and slipping when the motor tries to turn. You need to strip it down and re glue it. Common fault with these. Before you do that its worth checking the encoder at the back of the motor. If the black plastic cradle has craked or the magnet has come loose on the back then it can also do that. It normally make that noise if the magnet is too far away from the encoder so hopefully it will be that instead of the motor.


Which center spindle?

Sorry to revive a dead thread but I'm having this identical issue. Took the entire wheel base apart and every thing is tight and in working order.
 
my t300 starts auto spinning if i play a game end turn in, and the steeringwheel keeps standing of center after calibration. wat can it be?
 
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