I have the same setup, I started off with the mod but ended up taking it off as it takes far too much effort to brake properly.
Yes, then put the rubber mod on. I will have another look tomorrow.I have the same pedals and don’t use the mod either. I did end up getting new springs for the gas and brake pedals to make them a bit stiffer though, I just put the clutch spring in my brake instead.
https://www.google.ca/amp/s/www.ricmotech.com/spring-upgrade-thrustmaster-t3pa-pro-pedals?amp=1
Edit: As for he 50% braking, were you driving for a bit before you put the brake mod in? To be more specific, did your brake pedal travel the full distance in game before you put the mod in? If so, just unlpug your wheel and plug it back in, that will reset the pedals. And then the mod/stopper will be 100% brake.
You would have to do that every single time you played the game and even then I'm still not sure it would work. The game has an inbuilt calibration tool that adjusts to the length of your press. The problem is that the calibration tool does not deactivate after you initially do your calibration (which is done every time you start the game and use the pedals), so with the brake mod in, every time you press the brake a little harder the game resets the calibration of your pedals to that new level. This is well documented in several threads on this forum.
) here came up with to alleviate the problem.
In GT Sport the brake pressure is measured every time you press the brake pedal and adjusted to the distance of the hardest press of your pedal due to it the auto calibration feature. This causes the brake pressure you have to use to change over the course of a racing session and it becomes increasingly harder to reach 100% brake pressure.... unless you can adapt to pressing the brake at exactly the same pressure/distance every time. The solution in the picture I posted is of a hard stop which physically stops the brake pedal from travelling any further so there's no risk of the pedals continually recalibrating during a racing session. The distance and adjustment of the brake mod doesn't matter in this case.
) you have a definite stop, it’s all too easy with the mod to push harder and harder , which will recalibrate the brake pedal each time you push a bit further than the last max value that it recorded. The hard stop gives much better consistent calibration and braking.
‘Twas IYou would have to do that every single time you played the game and even then I'm still not sure it would work. The game has an inbuilt calibration tool that adjusts to the length of your press. The problem is that the calibration tool does not deactivate after you initially do your calibration (which is done every time you start the game and use the pedals), so with the brake mod in, every time you press the brake a little harder the game resets the calibration of your pedals to that new level. This is well documented in several threads on this forum.
This is one solution a member (sorry I don't recall your name to give you credit
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You lost me on this one my experience with the T3PA-PRO has been you set it up once it doesn’t change . The potentiometer would give the same value on movement all the time . the only change would come from calibration is GTS software. The modifications with the after market yellow cone is the problem , causing no proper pressure adjustment and stop. On my T3PA-PRO pedals set there is only a adjustable cone with a lock nut.
You might be right. But If we like to think that GTS as a simulator not a game the software it telling us that our brakes are over heating and introducing brake fade as would happen on a real race car. When you race and use less braking the software should recalculate the brakes back to 100% when they cooled down. Also you have ABS braking that will not let you lock up your bakes at any time when set on full ABS. Your pedal set will only adjust to 0% brakes to 100% brakes and the pressure applied to achieve it. The software like GTS will do the calculations to show the results
But it is software that's causing this, not any type of simulation. Warm brakes shouldn't carry over from one car to the next
The
But it is software that's causing this, not any type of simulation. Warm brakes shouldn't carry over from one car to the next
If you have T-LCM's (like me) you really should try the calibration software. It opens up a whole new world of adjustments, especially in conjunction with the different spring and washer combinations. https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t-lcm-pedals-en/
None of the calibration settings you make in a PC carry over to the console. On console all calibration is/should be done manually by the wheel itself, Turing left/right and by you pushing the pedals the the extremes so that the console can register the maximum input.But it is software that's causing this, not any type of simulation. Warm brakes shouldn't carry over from one car to the next
If you have T-LCM's (like me) you really should try the calibration software. It opens up a whole new world of adjustments, especially in conjunction with the different spring and washer combinations. https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t-lcm-pedals-en/
I think you have it right with the console and PC for calibration. My experience with my t300 wheel after firmware update I had pick the T500 to work with DriveClub . I now have a T-GT when updated it stop working all together . I took it back for a replacement I decided not to update firmware on the replacement and it’s has been working great with GTS. (I Have not use it with any PC gaming , my console PS4-Pro is dedicated for online racing it’s all I need )
I forgot to mention that when updating the pedal base it's not connected to the wheel so the T-LCM settings don't save to the wheelbase, they have their own separate calibration tool and software that saves to the actual pedal set. By being more of standalone product is probably how they get around the calibration issues.The T-LCM pedals work differently to any other TM pedals so the setups do stay. It's very easy to notice when you change something on the PC and go back to GT Sport... and no more problems of braking being a moving target
The T-LCM pedals work differently to any other TM pedals so the setups do stay. It's very easy to notice when you change something on the PC and go back to GT Sport... and no more problems of braking being a moving target
Hey if you have the rubber cone adapter that can make magic.Ahh, I’m still in the ghetto with my T500 and stock pro pedals. I don’t really know about this new fangled tech
I’ll probably update my set up when it brakes but in 6 years it’s only let out a tiny bit of magic smoke once... it’s been fine since.
