t-gt pedals - conical brake mod - no calibration?

[PocketZeven]

Hi is there any loadcell brake can connect to TGT without adapter or without modification? Thanks.

I mentioned them in an earlier post

There are LC mods out there for t3pa pedals. I would recommend those to elliminate any issues with Pots. sim racing solutions UK (UK), Ricmotec just designed a new one for T3PA (USA) and loadcellmod.com (NL/EU)

 

[yin613]

I mentioned them in an earlier post

Thanks for reply. I just saw it.

 

[SnakepitSlash]

Hey Guys,

Sorry to bring this thread back to life after 6 months but I've read it so far and it is really interesting.

I've bought myself a regular squash ball to create a poor's man brake mod (it is on his way). I play PCars 2 and AC but I mostly enjoy GT sport. NO issue on the two first games since you can manually calibrate the pedals.

For GT Sport, when you guys talk about the initial calibration of the wheel, how would you exactly "tell the wheel" what point is 100% braking. If you connect the wheel with the brake pedal fully pressed, the wheel will remember this position as being the idle position - 0% so to speak -. I experienced it when I connected my T300RS when it was still folded unto the brake pedal with the Wheel Stand Pro.

What is the actual manipulation you need to do to make the game "understand" that this position of the brake is 100% ? (i will adapt if I panic brake and the position is slightly changed, that's another thing)

Thanks a lot, this thread is just awesome !

 

[PocketZeven]

Hey Guys,

Sorry to bring this thread back to life after 6 months but I've read it so far and it is really interesting.

I've bought myself a regular squash ball to create a poor's man brake mod (it is on his way). I play PCars 2 and AC but I mostly enjoy GT sport. NO issue on the two first games since you can manually calibrate the pedals.

For GT Sport, when you guys talk about the initial calibration of the wheel, how would you exactly "tell the wheel" what point is 100% braking. If you connect the wheel with the brake pedal fully pressed, the wheel will remember this position as being the idle position - 0% so to speak -. I experienced it when I connected my T300RS when it was still folded unto the brake pedal with the Wheel Stand Pro.

What is the actual manipulation you need to do to make the game "understand" that this position of the brake is 100% ? (i will adapt if I panic brake and the position is slightly changed, that's another thing)

Thanks a lot, this thread is just awesome !

The first race in game. Just fully press in the pedal and that will be 100% afterwards. You do need to do it every time you play though.

 

[SnakepitSlash]

The first race in game. Just fully press in the pedal and that will be 100% afterwards. You do need to do it every time you play though.

THanks, thats great. So you just launch any race in the game and actually press the pedal with the brake mod inserted and the game will determine it is 100%, even though the pedal has not traveled all the way into its slot ?

 

[Gr8_Lakes]

THanks, thats great. So you just launch any race in the game and actually press the pedal with the brake mod inserted and the game will determine it is 100%, even though the pedal has not traveled all the way into its slot ?

Just looking for other issues related to my own. The problem with GTSport is that it CONTINUOUSLY calibrates your pedal. So, if you have a conical rubber brake stop, the first time you "slam" on the brakes - that will become your new full pedal press. You'll have to "slam" the brakes every time to achieve full braking. Very frustrating that GTSport does this continuous calibration type thing. Sucks for those of us with bad backs. No other game does this.

The positive stop modification is a very good idea that I've been planning on adding to my own pedals for some time now. Just don't play GTSport that often. But every time I do... I'm like, Man! Why did they design their brake calibration like that? Hopefully the next generation game will account for brakes that don't have positive stops. Like those with load cells.

 

[Firehuntah]

After getting my T-GT few days ago I noticed the issue with the 100% brake input moving further away each time you press hard on the brake right away. Auto calibration is nice and all but it should only happen once, not constantly. Ended up removing the conical brake mod at first but didn't like the long pedal travel. So with some of the ideas in this thread I created my own solution. Added an adjustable hard stop right below the actual conical mod using a bolt and 2 nuts. Also added a plastic cap to it so it won't damage/scratch up the pedal. This hard stop will always be the 100% brake input now and it's still fully adjustable, together with the conical mod. Really happy with how it works now. Don't know why Thrustmaster themselves didn't make it like this. Or actually made the calibration a one time thing only.

 

[Leggacy]

After getting my T-GT few days ago I noticed the issue with the 100% brake input moving further away each time you press hard on the brake right away. Auto calibration is nice and all but it should only happen once, not constantly. Ended up removing the conical brake mod at first but didn't like the long pedal travel. So with some of the ideas in this thread I created my own solution. Added an adjustable hard stop right below the actual conical mod using a bolt and 2 nuts. Also added a plastic cap to it so it won't damage/scratch up the pedal. This hard stop will always be the 100% brake input now and it's still fully adjustable, together with the conical mod. Really happy with how it works now. Don't know why Thrustmaster themselves didn't make it like this. Or actually made the calibration a one time thing only.

It’s nice too see other people’s solutions for the hard stop. The t3pa non pro pedals require a different approach, I’m glad you’ve found a way to fit one in.
Everyone with a rubber cone mod should do this, it makes so much difference.

 

[Gr8_Lakes]

After getting my T-GT few days ago I noticed the issue with the 100% brake input moving further away each time you press hard on the brake right away. Auto calibration is nice and all but it should only happen once, not constantly. Ended up removing the conical brake mod at first but didn't like the long pedal travel. So with some of the ideas in this thread I created my own solution. Added an adjustable hard stop right below the actual conical mod using a bolt and 2 nuts. Also added a plastic cap to it so it won't damage/scratch up the pedal. This hard stop will always be the 100% brake input now and it's still fully adjustable, together with the conical mod. Really happy with how it works now. Don't know why Thrustmaster themselves didn't make it like this. Or actually made the calibration a one time thing only.

Well done. If you're a GTSport player, this is actually a bit of a game breaker. I don't fault Thrustmaster, I fault PD. Pedals shouldn't continue to calibrate once they've been calibrated. EVERY other racing sim has a calibration feature that, once calibrated, stays constant. This is a programming mistake/oversight on behalf of PD. I've actually wondered if it's why they had to use Fanatec wheels for one of their tournaments.

I'm adding on to say I like your idea so much, I'm going to incorporate the same type of design into my T3PA-Pro pedals. It'll look a bit different, but work exactly the same. I especially like the nylon acorn nut to prevent gouging into the aluminum pedal arm. Well done, and well thought out. I'll post a picture when I get my own version done... eventually.

EDIT:
I've since contacted Ricmotech to ask if their load cell mod would help address this issue. They replied back that GTSport has a software issue that would cause the same problem with a load cell. Whether distance or pressure, GTSport will give inconsistant calibration until a hard stop limit is reached. On a load cell this may even require more pressure than the conical brake mod.

 

[GtSporting]

I wanted to chime in here after battling this myself. There are a few problems here that may lead to me changing the pedals entirely.

TGT factory mod has two problems. The rubber compound included is too hard. It was probably done to ensure durability, but ends up almost just being a way to shorten the brake travel.

The second problem is the bracket included restricts the brake travel too much. It should place the rubber cone further back when screwed all the way in.

After messing with the automatic in game calibration it reveals how the pedal works. Since it is a position based sensor, the game seems to recognize the speed at which the pedal goes from one point to the other to calibrate full brake pressure. Several rapid presses with the mod in will set 100% brakes at a fast press with the stop point on the rubber. If I put the same pressure into the rubber stop, but go at even medium speed, I only get between 40 and 60 percent.

This reveals to me that softer rubber, dampers, etc would still be impercise. Your muscles are still trying to memorize speed and position. It could get easier by modifying the pedal differently but this mod doesn't help me and maybe another one won't either. Without the mod I can find 100 percent very easily but between 50 and 80 percent is a crap shoot. This is bad for trailbraking. With the mod I get more precision trailbraking but heavy braking is worse. To get a precise pressure based solution, it will probably require a load cell and hydraulic piston. If you have aspiration of racing in official tournaments however, you dont get to bring your own pedals so you might as well get used to the stock pedals.

 

[Leggacy]

I wanted to chime in here after battling this myself. There are a few problems here that may lead to me changing the pedals entirely.

TGT factory mod has two problems. The rubber compound included is too hard. It was probably done to ensure durability, but ends up almost just being a way to shorten the brake travel.

The second problem is the bracket included restricts the brake travel too much. It should place the rubber cone further back when screwed all the way in.

After messing with the automatic in game calibration it reveals how the pedal works. Since it is a position based sensor, the game seems to recognize the speed at which the pedal goes from one point to the other to calibrate full brake pressure. Several rapid presses with the mod in will set 100% brakes at a fast press with the stop point on the rubber. If I put the same pressure into the rubber stop, but go at even medium speed, I only get between 40 and 60 percent.

This reveals to me that softer rubber, dampers, etc would still be impercise. Your muscles are still trying to memorize speed and position. It could get easier by modifying the pedal differently but this mod doesn't help me and maybe another one won't either. Without the mod I can find 100 percent very easily but between 50 and 80 percent is a crap shoot. This is bad for trailbraking. With the mod I get more precision trailbraking but heavy braking is worse. To get a precise pressure based solution, it will probably require a load cell and hydraulic piston. If you have aspiration of racing in official tournaments however, you dont get to bring your own pedals so you might as well get used to the stock pedals.

Read the above post by @Firehuntah
I believe this may help you

 

[FPV MIC]

Well done. If you're a GTSport player, this is actually a bit of a game breaker. I don't fault Thrustmaster, I fault PD. Pedals shouldn't continue to calibrate once they've been calibrated. EVERY other racing sim has a calibration feature that, once calibrated, stays constant. This is a programming mistake/oversight on behalf of PD. I've actually wondered if it's why they had to use Fanatec wheels for one of their tournaments.

I'm adding on to say I like your idea so much, I'm going to incorporate the same type of design into my T3PA-Pro pedals. It'll look a bit different, but work exactly the same. I especially like the nylon acorn nut to prevent gouging into the aluminum pedal arm. Well done, and well thought out. I'll post a picture when I get my own version done... eventually.

EDIT:
I've since contacted Ricmotech to ask if their load cell mod would help address this issue. They replied back that GTSport has a software issue that would cause the same problem with a load cell. Whether distance or pressure, GTSport will give inconsistant calibration until a hard stop limit is reached. On a load cell this may even require more pressure than the conical brake mod.

A proper calibration method is long overdue. This continue to calibrate issue was there back in GT 6 days as well.... and I can also confirm ( and have in several different threads) about the load cell issue requiring more pressure than my old conical mod. It gets to the point where I have to shut down my whole system and reboot everything just so I can reset my brake pressure.

 

[Gr8_Lakes]

A proper calibration method is long overdue. This continue to calibrate issue was there back in GT 6 days as well.... and I can also confirm ( and have in several different threads) about the load cell issue requiring more pressure than my old conical mod. It gets to the point where I have to shut down my whole system and reboot everything just so I can reset my brake pressure.

I'm so glad others are experiencing the same issue. I spent the evening modding the conical adapter, but won't be able to install/reinstall/dial in to my liking, until tomorrow. With the T-GT being the official wheel of GT Sport tournament play, I'd imagine this calibration issue had to have come up at some point? Then again, I guess the standard pedal configuration (no conical adapter) would be similar to the G29. On GT-6 I used a G27. Common practice was to press the pedal until it bottomed out the first time you drove on track. I'm guessing the T-GT without mod is the same. So tournament players probably practice with the non progressive spring and physical hard stop.

The conical mod is so much more realistic though, even with less pedal travel (a common theme of load cells as well - less pedal travel). I eventually modded my G27 with the progressve GTEye spring, which was an improvement, but the rubber cone is a much more natural feeling brake resistance. I'm hoping for a pedal travel that uses about 85-90 percent of what's collapsible on the rubber cone before hitting the newly installed hard stop. It's just that full 100% pressure that's too much for continued racing. Muscle fatigue starts setting in, and brake points start changing for higher speed corners once you've calibrated your pedal to that hard pressure, full braking pedal travel. If I weren't so happy with the conical brake mod in games that I can manually calibrate my pedals, I'd also be looking for another alternative. But F1 2019, PCars 2, Assetto Corsa, Dirt Rally, are all great. You just hit calibrate, press how hard you want 100% braking to be, and DONE!

I'll definitely post a couple pics and report back on how the hard stop works. I'm actually pretty confident it's going to meet my expectations based on theory, my initial testing, and previous reports from others that have done the same.

I've given up hope that this issue will be addressed in GT Sport. I'm just hopful this calibration method will be scrapped in future versions of the game.

 

[Gr8_Lakes]

After messing with the automatic in game calibration it reveals how the pedal works. Since it is a position based sensor, the game seems to recognize the speed at which the pedal goes from one point to the other to calibrate full brake pressure. Several rapid presses with the mod in will set 100% brakes at a fast press with the stop point on the rubber. If I put the same pressure into the rubber stop, but go at even medium speed, I only get between 40 and 60 percent.

This reveals to me that softer rubber, dampers, etc would still be impercise. Your muscles are still trying to memorize speed and position. It could get easier by modifying the pedal differently but this mod doesn't help me and maybe another one won't either. Without the mod I can find 100 percent very easily but between 50 and 80 percent is a crap shoot. This is bad for trailbraking. With the mod I get more precision trailbraking but heavy braking is worse. To get a precise pressure based solution, it will probably require a load cell and hydraulic piston. If you have aspiration of racing in official tournaments however, you dont get to bring your own pedals so you might as well get used to the stock pedals.

With the conical brake mod I realized quickly that it was only going to feel right (for me) if there's immediate resistance when I pressed the pedal. So there's no "free play" in my brake pedal travel. As soon as I'm on the brakes I'm starting to squish the rubber cone. Yes, this greatly reduces pedal travel, but gives so much more feeling to what I'm doing. It's a great simulation to a load cell this way because while the potentiometer is still measuring distance, my brain is measuring the increasing pressure. I think any free play before the pedal arm makes contact with the rubber cone would cause havoc with trying to be consistent - especially in slight braking situations.

As I previously stated, I jumped from a G27 right into the conical modded Thrustmaster. The G27 had a lot more brake pedal travel, and there was a big learning curve for me. But I'm much more precise now, even with less travel. Then I learned that load cells also use less pedal travel, which now makes sense to me.

 

[FPV MIC]

I'm so glad others are experiencing the same issue. I spent the evening modding the conical adapter, but won't be able to install/reinstall/dial in to my liking, until tomorrow. With the T-GT being the official wheel of GT Sport tournament play, I'd imagine this calibration issue had to have come up at some point? Then again, I guess the standard pedal configuration (no conical adapter) would be similar to the G29. On GT-6 I used a G27. Common practice was to press the pedal until it bottomed out the first time you drove on track. I'm guessing the T-GT without mod is the same. So tournament players probably practice with the non progressive spring and physical hard stop.

The conical mod is so much more realistic though, even with less pedal travel (a common theme of load cells as well - less pedal travel). I eventually modded my G27 with the progressve GTEye spring, which was an improvement, but the rubber cone is a much more natural feeling brake resistance. I'm hoping for a pedal travel that uses about 85-90 percent of what's collapsible on the rubber cone before hitting the newly installed hard stop. It's just that full 100% pressure that's too much for continued racing. Muscle fatigue starts setting in, and brake points start changing for higher speed corners once you've calibrated your pedal to that hard pressure, full braking pedal travel. If I weren't so happy with the conical brake mod in games that I can manually calibrate my pedals, I'd also be looking for another alternative. But F1 2019, PCars 2, Assetto Corsa, Dirt Rally, are all great. You just hit calibrate, press how hard you want 100% braking to be, and DONE!

I'll definitely post a couple pics and report back on how the hard stop works. I'm actually pretty confident it's going to meet my expectations based on theory, my initial testing, and previous reports from others that have done the same.

I've given up hope that this issue will be addressed in GT Sport. I'm just hopful this calibration method will be scrapped in future versions of the game.

In the very early FIA events (one, maybe two events?) they used the brake mod only to remove it for all of the more recent ones, so hopefully this issue was brought up at that time. I've always thought it was the reason for the mods removal because it really shows up this issue when sharing a rig with someone else (from personal experience with friends) but I haven't ever heard anything concrete regarding this. And yes you're correct, it's just a matter of pressing the brake all the way to the hard stop without the mod.

As you mention, on other games calibration is fine, it's only an issue with GT Sport. It's the reason I don't play much GTS anymore because I don't want to remove my load cell and I don't like having to re-calibrate all the time... so I just play other games for now.

 

[Gr8_Lakes]

Life has been complicated the past month, but I finally got to my mod. If someone would like more pictures or information I'd be happy to assist.

My opinion, A TOTAL game changer! This game does NOT function properly without a true, positive stop, brake pedal. Anything variable will create constant inconstancy. Load cells should NOT be used in GTSport!

Prior to this mod I've never gotten a podium in GTSport. Tonight, after three nights playing other games and GTSport:

 

[Gr8_Lakes]

In the very early FIA events (one, maybe two events?) they used the brake mod only to remove it for all of the more recent ones, so hopefully this issue was brought up at that time. I've always thought it was the reason for the mods removal because it really shows up this issue when sharing a rig with someone else (from personal experience with friends) but I haven't ever heard anything concrete regarding this. And yes you're correct, it's just a matter of pressing the brake all the way to the hard stop without the mod.

As you mention, on other games calibration is fine, it's only an issue with GT Sport. It's the reason I don't play much GTS anymore because I don't want to remove my load cell and I don't like having to re-calibrate all the time... so I just play other games for now.

Separate post, because, THANK YOU!!!! This is just further evidence that there is a problem, and that it will possibly be addressed in future sequels. While GTSport isn't my favorite sim right now, I'm still rooting for them in the next generation of PS. I never would've built a sim-rig if it weren't for GTSport. So, I'm still hoping they'll come out on top in the next few years.

 

[IAMDOODLEBUG]

I have no idea how long the issue has been going on for me, but I happened to notice it the other day practicing for the Manufacturers at Interlagos. Even pressing hard was giving me a reading of maybe 50%. I have always used the mod, but I took it out tonight to test out the readings. Low and behold, 100% every time and a huge difference in braking distance. The annoyance is that threshold braking is now very difficult due to the pressure remaining the same throughout the travel, I really dont like it but unless GTS is updated then I'll have to adapt. It seems mad that there has never been a setting for calibration of the pedals. It's stupid that it recalibrates constantly....

 

[super_gt]

With ABS OFF this problem is not noticeable because the brake is calibrated once and then the maximum braking force does not exceed 80% during braking and the pedal calibration remains unchanged. Otherwise if you use ABS ON and you have to apply 100% braking force hard stop in the brake pedal is the solution.

 

[IAMDOODLEBUG]

Bravo if you can play this game without abs! Pcars, AC etc are intuitive and I enjoy driving without ABS, in this game it feels horrid and locking up is way too easy :-(

 

[Gr8_Lakes]

OK, this is just ridiculous... After over a year of racing online in GTSport and never even getting podiums, I'm now getting pole positions, podiums, and another win! While it may seem like bragging, I'm not intending to do that at all! I'm an experienced sim-racer. Definitely not an alien or high caliber at all. The fact that I could make one simple modification and start winning means something is broken in the game. That's all. I've said my peace.

 

[mca312]

@Gr8_Lakes What is that metal bracket from? I would like to make something like this too

 

[super_gt]

What is that metal bracket from?

 

[mca312]

@super_gt Oh got it. I have the regular T3PA so mine looks different

 

[Seb Weasel]

OK, this is just ridiculous... After over a year of racing online in GTSport and never even getting podiums, I'm now getting pole positions, podiums, and another win! While it may seem like bragging, I'm not intending to do that at all! I'm an experienced sim-racer. Definitely not an alien or high caliber at all. The fact that I could make one simple modification and start winning means something is broken in the game. That's all. I've said my peace.

View attachment 885267

Hi!
@Gr8_Lakes Can I ask, are you still satisfied with this solution in the long run?

I agree that the calibration system in the game is really bad. No idea why they didn’t go with a conventional proven approach. If it ain't broken...

I also have a T3PA. After reaching the same conclusion as many here, I opened the pedal board to move the pot by a notch, in order to “max out” about halfway through. That way I have 0 risk of recalibration (but a small end dead zone which sucks). Then I used a bolt instead of the conical brake mod. At least it’s consistent and much shorter.

But since you’re saying it’s great for trail braking, I might take the drill bits out and give it a go.

 

[Seb Weasel]

@Gr8_Lakes and all potentially struggling with this in the past, present or future.
I probably spent 5+ hours on trial and error so I wanted to share. Also so I can get some closure and move on

Issue: the conical mod for the T3PA brake pedal can't work properly in GT Sport.
The problem comes from the fact that the game recalibrates every time a new highest input has been detected. Therefore, with the conical mod on, every time you brake a little bit harder, you always have to brake that hard going forward to get max input. And so on and so forth. In other words it can't be used.

Here's how pedal inputs work:
1. Start of input (0%)
2. End of input (100%)
3. Dead-zones: areas where inputs are not yet registered (start) or not registered anymore (end)

(There's also a fourth setting which is input curve. Typically throttle and clutch should have most of the input happen at the beginning of travel, and brakes at the end. Games like Project Cars allows tuning of this, GT Sport doesn't. In my opinion the way the input curve works in GT Sport is not ideal, but that's another topic entirely. I just figured I'd mention it to be EXHAUSTIVE)

What I did
1. I drilled a hole below the mod to install a dead stop, as others here have done.
Unfortunately, the game needs a certain amount of input to "accept" a 100% value. Meaning, if the physical pedal only travels 25%, the game won't consider this to be 100%. You have to move the pedal about 50% at least for that to happen. Still, it's better than the 100% stock physical travel which is way too long.
Sadly, with the conical mod on, I can't reach that distance consistently. Therefore, I will not use the mod going forward, as I can't doubt the max input all the time. I want to know that when I brake hard, I get 100% power 100% of the time.

2. HOWEVER, I managed to reduce the physical travel needed to reach 100%.
With stock setup, since T3PA is with potentiometers, I had tons of issues with "misreadings". Basically even with the bolt dead stop, the pedal moves a tiny little bit from side to side, and that changes the input.
What I did to solve that is open the pedal box, and turn the potentiometer a couple of notches so that past 50% of physical travel, there is no more change reported. Basically the potentiometer reports 100% whether you physically are at 50% or a 100%.
I then set the dead stop so it's ever so slightly past that area (to avoid end dead-zone), and VOILA.

I could spend more time trying to make another conical mod to simulate a load cell. But load cells exist for a reason, and after all that fiddling around I actually realize that I don't like having to apply a lot of pressure on the brake pedal. Since I don't have a proper racing cockpit, it creates other issues with furniture moving around and stuff anyway .

So all is now good in the world. I have a brake pedal that has no dead-zones, that works 100% consistently, and with about half the travel from stock.

I'll conclude by mentioning what would solve all of these issues:
Including a proper calibration tool in the game. One that allows us to:
1. Set a value for max input anywhere we want in the physical travel
2. Allow dead-zone settings, especially end dead-zone, so we don't have misreadings at the end of the travel zone.

Icing on the cake would be to include curve setup. One thing for sure, and no offense, but if Project Cars has it, I think GT can too. I understand and complete adhere to PD's vision of having a great physics model in a super accessible package, but I consider calibration an absolute must.

 

[Gr8_Lakes]

@Gr8_Lakes and all potentially struggling with this in the past, present or future.
I probably spent 5+ hours on trial and error so I wanted to share. Also so I can get some closure and move on

Issue: the conical mod for the T3PA brake pedal can't work properly in GT Sport.
The problem comes from the fact that the game recalibrates every time a new highest input has been detected. Therefore, with the conical mod on, every time you brake a little bit harder, you always have to brake that hard going forward to get max input. And so on and so forth. In other words it can't be used.

Here's how pedal inputs work:
1. Start of input (0%)
2. End of input (100%)
3. Dead-zones: areas where inputs are not yet registered (start) or not registered anymore (end)

(There's also a fourth setting which is input curve. Typically throttle and clutch should have most of the input happen at the beginning of travel, and brakes at the end. Games like Project Cars allows tuning of this, GT Sport doesn't. In my opinion the way the input curve works in GT Sport is not ideal, but that's another topic entirely. I just figured I'd mention it to be EXHAUSTIVE)

What I did
1. I drilled a hole below the mod to install a dead stop, as others here have done.
Unfortunately, the game needs a certain amount of input to "accept" a 100% value. Meaning, if the physical pedal only travels 25%, the game won't consider this to be 100%. You have to move the pedal about 50% at least for that to happen. Still, it's better than the 100% stock physical travel which is way too long.
Sadly, with the conical mod on, I can't reach that distance consistently. Therefore, I will not use the mod going forward, as I can't doubt the max input all the time. I want to know that when I brake hard, I get 100% power 100% of the time.

2. HOWEVER, I managed to reduce the physical travel needed to reach 100%.
With stock setup, since T3PA is with potentiometers, I had tons of issues with "misreadings". Basically even with the bolt dead stop, the pedal moves a tiny little bit from side to side, and that changes the input.
What I did to solve that is open the pedal box, and turn the potentiometer a couple of notches so that past 50% of physical travel, there is no more change reported. Basically the potentiometer reports 100% whether you physically are at 50% or a 100%.
I then set the dead stop so it's ever so slightly past that area (to avoid end dead-zone), and VOILA.

I could spend more time trying to make another conical mod to simulate a load cell. But load cells exist for a reason, and after all that fiddling around I actually realize that I don't like having to apply a lot of pressure on the brake pedal. Since I don't have a proper racing cockpit, it creates other issues with furniture moving around and stuff anyway .

So all is now good in the world. I have a brake pedal that has no dead-zones, that works 100% consistently, and with about half the travel from stock.

I'll conclude by mentioning what would solve all of these issues:
Including a proper calibration tool in the game. One that allows us to:
1. Set a value for max input anywhere we want in the physical travel
2. Allow dead-zone settings, especially end dead-zone, so we don't have misreadings at the end of the travel zone.

Icing on the cake would be to include curve setup. One thing for sure, and no offense, but if Project Cars has it, I think GT can too. I understand and complete adhere to PD's vision of having a great physics model in a super accessible package, but I consider calibration an absolute must.

Brilliant. Well done, and thank you for sharing. I actually purchased the T-LCM pedal set (I was one of the few to actually get them shipped before the COVID-19 outbreak). But... you'd think stay at home orders would allow for more time to modify my rig, and set up the pedals properly. They've been sitting in the box for like eight weeks now. I have a twelve year old son, and keeping him entertained and educated is our full time job now. Hopefully I can report back how the LC pedals work. Some day.

 

[Seb Weasel]

Brilliant. Well done, and thank you for sharing. I actually purchased the T-LCM pedal set (I was one of the few to actually get them shipped before the COVID-19 outbreak). But... you'd think stay at home orders would allow for more time to modify my rig, and set up the pedals properly. They've been sitting in the box for like eight weeks now. I have a twelve year old son, and keeping him entertained and educated is our full time job now. Hopefully I can report back how the LC pedals work. Some day.

Wow... Hope you and your family are ok! My wife and I were in Thailand when everything started to go bad, we rushed back to France where we live and have been staying put for over 2 months now. Crazy times. No kids yet so plenty of time for GT Sport

Granted there are more important things than brake pedals... But I'll be keeping an eye out for your report! Really curious to see how GT Sport handles a load cell. Clearly it works since many people use them.

 

[kirethk]

Agree with what's been said previously in this thread - I am much more consistent without the conical mod as thresholds for braking change throughout races. Would ideally like to use the conical mod though as it feels very realistic.

 

[sdi_03]

My setup. G29 pedals with t300rs
Hard stop for brake. Also the original rubner is there, just little modified. Rubber works after 75% brake is applied