The detailing and washing thread

  • Thread starter Moglet
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Ooh, detailing! I watch AMMO NYC videos way too much
Yeah, me too. Lots of great tips on his channel, although he obviously plugs his product religiously.

Application - This is where I'll probably be banished from the thread, but... I only have one bucket.
Hao could yew :scared: Jokes aside though, you know all the good work you might do is likely to be undone without another one at hand...
 
Hao could yew :scared: Jokes aside though, you know all the good work you might do is likely to be undone without another one at hand...

Yeah, that's why I haven't bothered polishing or waxing the Panda yet. Once better weather comes around I'll do a proper job. :P
 
Yeah, that's why I haven't bothered polishing or waxing the Panda yet. Once better weather comes around I'll do a proper job. :P
Waxing the car helps prevent any scratches that you might install using one bucket.
My paint is very soft and I used one bucket for years. After I started using 2 buckets the amount of scratches I put into the paint from washing it is almost zero.
 
Geez, I knew I lacked the knowledge of washing my car but damn. Didn't know I wasent suppose to use the same bucket haha.

Will get a base and clear coat on my car in a year or two but for now it's single stage.

Any methods of detailing it if possible? If so is it the same as a two stage or no?
 
Application - This is where I'll probably be banished from the thread, but... I only have one bucket. I know, I know. I may as well wash my car with sandpaper, although to be honest it looks like the previous owner did that anyway. I'll be buying some proper buckets and grit guards at some point, Clean Your Car is based just a few units down from where I work so I don't really have an excuse.

You'll be glad to hear I use a Meguiars microfibre mitt, though.

I end up borrowing my brother's bucket so I have a second one, so that sorta works. As for sandpaper washing... I find it hard to believe any car has more scratches than mine. The paint looks like somebody ran it down a dirt road and promptly waxed it afterwards. Not the best look, but I keep it as nice as I can.
 
There is a method for one bucket that seems alright. You use one bucket and a lot of microfiber towels. Each microfiber is used for one panel and never dipped back into the bucket. I think this is meant more for rinseless washes.

 
There is a method for one bucket that seems alright. You use one bucket and a lot of microfiber towels. Each microfiber is used for one panel and never dipped back into the bucket. I think this is meant more for rinseless washes.
Not sure how much microfibre clothes are there, but here they cost a bit. Would rather think it's easier to scrounge another bucket, but that's just me!

I also forgot to add to my list the following :embarrassed:

Quick detailer
Turtle Wax Ice Detailer for muck between washes (bird do, bugs etc).

Interior
Meguairs Leather conditioner for the leather trim and seats.
 
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Didn't know I wasent suppose to use the same bucket haha.

You've probably Googled it by now but just in case:

Using two (or sometimes even more) buckets reduces swirls and scratches in the paintwork by leaving one clean bucket with shampoo in it and the other with just warm water that you use to rinse off your mitt or cloth when you make a pass over the paintwork. Doing it all in the one bucket means it's more likely that you're going to have debris caught in your tool when you make another pass so it's going to be dragging that back over your paintwork.

I've recently become obsessed with AutoGlym products but I do have a few extra bits and pieces:

Pre-Soak

Like others I don't have a pressure washer or a foaming lance but I either do the garden sprayer technique like @Mike Rotch or depending on what time of day it is the local manual car wash is pretty lenient on bucket washing so I use their pressure washer to begin.

Wheels

AutoGlym's Clean Wheels combined with a softer-bristled wheel and bumper brush. Clean Wheels is one of the bits and bobs that came with the really handy Smart Wash system that I will go through the rest of later. The brush is rubber-edged so it doesn't scratch the Enkeis, and I'm also rather vigilant with my rinse bucket for the brush.

Tyres

Good ol' Australian Export spray-on tyre shine ;) also useful for the black trim pieces running along the bottom of the Rex. But this is obviously done at the very end of the exterior detail.

Shampoo

AutoGlym Bodywork Shampoo. Again, part of the Smart Wash system.

Application

So the major part of AutoGlym's Smart Wash system is the "Twin Chamber" bucket which is, obviously, a two-bucket method in 1 bucket. Two capfuls of Bodywork Shampoo in the Wash section, filled with warm water, then straight warm water in the rinse section. There's a super soft microfibre wash mitt included though before this I used to use Meguiar's Lambswool Mitt like Mike.

If required I also use clay at this stage, currently using Meguiar's Quik Clay Kit but will be upgrading to the Bowden's Own Clay Towels when I'm through with that.

I also use Bowden's Own Big Bugger chamois to dry.

Polish

AutoGlym Super Resin Polish applied with fresh, clean microfibre towels. While it's not really designed for paintwork correction (indeed it has a lot of fillers and is only lightly abrasive) it certainly looks and feels a treat when finished. When combined with the Wax/Sealant below, you don't need to reapply for a while.

Wax/Sealant

AutoGlym Extra Gloss Protection to seal the polish, and then a layer of Turtle Super Hard Shell wax on top. I'm only using the Turtle Wax to be done with it and will most likely invest in a more premium grade wax afterwards.

For the windows I use AutoGlym Fast Glass and for the interior I use various brushes, a cyclonic vacuum cleaner and AutoGlym Interior Shampoo.
 
Pre-soak
I don't do this step as I don't have the gear for it. A few good ideas put out but I probably won't do it for a while.
Just spray it down with the hose a few times to remove as much dirt as I can. Having good protection on the paint helps remove dirt with just water.

Wheels
AMMO Wheel Soap and a seperate bucket and cleaning cloths.
Chemical Guys Max Coat Wheel Guard wax for protecting them.
Green microfibre for cleaning them. As my wheels are new and have the Wheel Guard on them they just need a wipe. I do however take them off the car every few washes to get them fully clean inside the barrels and behind the spokes.

Tyres
CarPro PERL. Currently I am using it diluted at 3:1 Water to PERL but I think it is far more diluted than that because I didn't really measure it. This is a silicone oxide so dries hard and makes the tyres shed water. It makes them nicely black with a sheen to it which isn't tool glossy which I like. Dirt doesn't stick to it and no sling on the paint.

Shampoo
CarPro Reset. Goes a long way. Small amount in bucket 1 with water to create suds and fresh water in bucket 2 for cleaning the wash sponge.

Application
I think I have a Repco branded sponge with microfibre tassels on one side and a mesh on the other side for scrubbing off bugs.
Soap up the sponge in bucket 1 and run it over one panel then wash in bucket 2. Rinse and repeat.

If I am applying wax I will do this before drying the car.

For drying I use a long fibre microfibre cloth 600x450mm. Soaks up a lot of water and wring it out after almost each pass if the water hasn't run off the car.

Wax/ Sealant
CarPro Hydro2 Lite spray wax. Wet the panel after washing and spray on then high pressure washer it off. It does the windows too so you end up with a RainX like water shedding at speed. This is a great product because you don't have to touch your paint so no damage to the paint can occur. Lasts for up to 6 months.

Top-up wax
Same as above. Spray wax and wipe off. I also use Meguiras Carnauba Wax for the sections you can't really spray wax. Small round sponge for application or microfibre pad then Yellow microfibre cloths to remove and buff.

Quick detailer
Not something I have used so far.

Interior
An APC works well then on any leather I use the stuff I got with my lounge suit. Works really well.

Windows
I use a normal glass cleaner and blue microfibre towels for cleaning then paper towels to finish off. You have to go over them about 3 times on the interior to remove all the dirt and stop fogging.

Engine bay
An APC and a hose. Then an old green wheel cloth to wipe off dust and dirt.
Then CarPro PERL on the rubber and plastic parts. I have used some CarPro DLUX on some of the plastic bits so they just need spray with water to move the dust off them. DLUX is also on the exhaust tips so that just needs a wipe with a cloth to remove road grime and exhaust soot.

Extras to correct or Protect the paint and trim
Black trim has had CarPro DLUX to bring back any faded parts and protect from UV light and dirt. This can be used for paint but needs a professional to install it as it's not easy to get right on large surfaces.

Paint Correction
Meguiars Ultimate Compound for any deeper scratches or paint that has a lot of scratches. This is a semi aggressive compound at least on soft paint like the MR2. Works well on clear coats too but I only use it by hand so very difficult as clear coats are hard. Would work well with a DA polisher. Also good for polishing lights that are faded.
CarPro Fixer. This is perfect for minor scratches and works really well on the MR2 with soft paint because it is a light polish and not to aggressive. Fixes what I need to fix and no more so I like it for that. I have got the paint to a point where it only needs light correction now. Also now that I use the 2 bucket wash method I have found the fine scratches appear far less.

Techniques for paint correction. NEVER go in circles. ALWAYS straight lines when working by hand. This stops putting nasty swirls in the paint. Much harder to see straight fine scratches in the paint vs round ones.
As Larry from AMMO NYC says, residue control. Using clean or cleaning out the pad to remove lifted paint helps reduce/eliminate putting more scratches into the paint as you try to correct it.

Always check what each method and product is doing to your paint. It's the only way to learn what is best.

Thanks @Mike Rotch for starting up this new topic and for the format.
 
TB
Good catch. Threads merged. 👍

I remember the weirdest of threads :dunce:

Edit:

I've been interested in detailing for the longest time, and for the last couple of years, 'work' as an amateur detailer for friends and friends of friends. My equipment is a bit rubbish, but I'm slowly trying to improve the quality of it.

Prior-cleaning
- Interior detailed (wipe down with cheap microfibres and Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer Cleaner. Grime cleaned with either steam cleaner or dish soap and water mix and brush. Glass cleaned with Meguiar's Perfect Clarity Glass Cleaner).
- Door jams cleaned (hosed down, dish soap and brush/old wheel brush for agitation, dried off).
- Engine and engine bay (degreaser, old car brush, hosed down - underside of bonnet polished if applicable).

Pre-soak
- Thoroughly hosed down, making sure to hose in conjunction with body lines to not push in dirt.

Wheels
- Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash with either a clean rag, a brush or... my fingers. :dopey:

Tyres
- Meguiar's Endurance Tire Gel. Smells great, beads awesome and gives a great finish; gives the tyre a 'moist' look without it looking like silicon spray.

Shampoo
- Meguiar's Gold Class here too. Works well.

Application
- Dual bucket clean method with a dual bucket like this. Cheap corral wash mitt thing for cleaning, or brush to remove tough areas that would normally be easy to remove with a proper pre-wash. Also roof because I'm short. Dried with spongey chamois thing.

Pre-polish
- CarPro triple pack clay set

Compound
- Mothers California Gold Pure Polish. Bought it because it was cheap, and still somewhat reputable. Prior to this I used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound which also gave good results. My Mothers is just about out, so I'm looking at replacements at the mo. Thinking of going for CarPro Fixer, but still need to do more research.

- Applied with Meguiar's foam application pad with polishing microfibre, but have a Rockwell RS4503 600W/180mm that I still need to test out.

Wax/ Sealant
- Sadly all I use is Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax for wax, which while not the best of products, leaves a great finish and smell for what it is. Also have a small bottle of Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba Plus Premium Liquid Wax that was given to me that I've yet to use.
 
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Any of you wanna come and do mine lol?

You would all be appalled at how I clean mine.

Same. :lol:

Meguiar's Quik Wax, bit of spray on tyre shine and job done. Honestly, it'd be lucky if it takes me more than an hour to do it. :lol:
 
SVX
My Mothers is just about out, so I'm looking at replacements at the mo. Thinking of going for CarPro Fixer, but still need to do more research.

Ended up with some Auto Gylm Super Resin. $32.59 with free shipping - I can't even import it for that. Pretty excited, as it has a massive reputation.
 
SVX
Ended up with some Auto Gylm Super Resin. $32.59 with free shipping - I can't even import it for that. Pretty excited, as it has a massive reputation.

Update - fantastic!

A mini review:

Application is really easy, and minimal. With this you only need a couple marble sized blobs, and then you're good for like, an entire quarter. This makes polishing less tiring and time consuming - good for bigger cars like a van (which I tried it on today). The advantage of it using a small quantity is that it's harder to stain plastics and get in the door shuts. Since it's a silicon based, it doesn't cut in - so you don't burn through paint. This is both a good and bad point, because it means scratches or foggy lights can't be restored too much. I'll need to get some compound at a later date.

As well as it being silicon based, it's good for correcting paintwork, but as a 'fake' correction - it's sealant fills in the majority of swirls, giving the impression the paintwork has been restored.

Needs a good sealant/wax. It's protection is rather quite minimal, and needs just that something extra to slick the bodywork to make it extra glossy and smooth. Three coats is a recommended max - you don't see any difference afterwards.

Would highly recommend! Sadly, it's not sold in NZ officially so getting it requires a bit of a hassle, but it'll definitely be my go to for now.
 
SVX
Update - fantastic!

A mini review:

Application is really easy, and minimal. With this you only need a couple marble sized blobs, and then you're good for like, an entire quarter. This makes polishing less tiring and time consuming - good for bigger cars like a van (which I tried it on today). The advantage of it using a small quantity is that it's harder to stain plastics and get in the door shuts. Since it's a silicon based, it doesn't cut in - so you don't burn through paint. This is both a good and bad point, because it means scratches or foggy lights can't be restored too much. I'll need to get some compound at a later date.

As well as it being silicon based, it's good for correcting paintwork, but as a 'fake' correction - it's sealant fills in the majority of swirls, giving the impression the paintwork has been restored.

Needs a good sealant/wax. It's protection is rather quite minimal, and needs just that something extra to slick the bodywork to make it extra glossy and smooth. Three coats is a recommended max - you don't see any difference afterwards.

Would highly recommend! Sadly, it's not sold in NZ officially so getting it requires a bit of a hassle, but it'll definitely be my go to for now.

Auto Glym I support, really good stuff I say.

I've used their Paintwork Restorer which is essentially a compound and it's really easy to use and has less residue compared to Meguiars and Turtle Wax. The Super Resin Polish as a touch-up procedure and overall polish is possibly the best I've used thus far.
 
Had a beautiful night to clean Reginald up, so that's exactly what I did.
17990876_1347058238715242_2292427358555593260_n.jpg


I'm very pleased with the Turtle Wax Jet Black tire shine, and I think the car looks pretty good from a few feet away. Up close though...
 
I'm very pleased with the Turtle Wax Jet Black tire shine
If that is the stuff you need to apply with gloves, I have the same stuff (Jet Black Endura)....

Pretty pleased with the longevity - can easily go a month of regular driving with not much change.
 
Pre-soak
I don't do this step as I don't have the gear for it. A few good ideas put out but I probably won't do it for a while.
Just spray it down with the hose a few times to remove as much dirt as I can. Having good protection on the paint helps remove dirt with just water.

Wheels
AMMO Wheel Soap and a seperate bucket and cleaning cloths.
Chemical Guys Max Coat Wheel Guard wax for protecting them.
Green microfibre for cleaning them. As my wheels are new and have the Wheel Guard on them they just need a wipe. I do however take them off the car every few washes to get them fully clean inside the barrels and behind the spokes.

Tyres
CarPro PERL. Currently I am using it diluted at 3:1 Water to PERL but I think it is far more diluted than that because I didn't really measure it. This is a silicone oxide so dries hard and makes the tyres shed water. It makes them nicely black with a sheen to it which isn't tool glossy which I like. Dirt doesn't stick to it and no sling on the paint.

Shampoo
CarPro Reset. Goes a long way. Small amount in bucket 1 with water to create suds and fresh water in bucket 2 for cleaning the wash sponge.

Application
I think I have a Repco branded sponge with microfibre tassels on one side and a mesh on the other side for scrubbing off bugs.
Soap up the sponge in bucket 1 and run it over one panel then wash in bucket 2. Rinse and repeat.

If I am applying wax I will do this before drying the car.

For drying I use a long fibre microfibre cloth 600x450mm. Soaks up a lot of water and wring it out after almost each pass if the water hasn't run off the car.

Wax/ Sealant
CarPro Hydro2 Lite spray wax. Wet the panel after washing and spray on then high pressure washer it off. It does the windows too so you end up with a RainX like water shedding at speed. This is a great product because you don't have to touch your paint so no damage to the paint can occur. Lasts for up to 6 months.

Top-up wax
Same as above. Spray wax and wipe off. I also use Meguiras Carnauba Wax for the sections you can't really spray wax. Small round sponge for application or microfibre pad then Yellow microfibre cloths to remove and buff.

Quick detailer
Not something I have used so far.

Interior
An APC works well then on any leather I use the stuff I got with my lounge suit. Works really well.

Windows
I use a normal glass cleaner and blue microfibre towels for cleaning then paper towels to finish off. You have to go over them about 3 times on the interior to remove all the dirt and stop fogging.

Engine bay
An APC and a hose. Then an old green wheel cloth to wipe off dust and dirt.
Then CarPro PERL on the rubber and plastic parts. I have used some CarPro DLUX on some of the plastic bits so they just need spray with water to move the dust off them. DLUX is also on the exhaust tips so that just needs a wipe with a cloth to remove road grime and exhaust soot.

Extras to correct or Protect the paint and trim
Black trim has had CarPro DLUX to bring back any faded parts and protect from UV light and dirt. This can be used for paint but needs a professional to install it as it's not easy to get right on large surfaces.

Paint Correction
Meguiars Ultimate Compound for any deeper scratches or paint that has a lot of scratches. This is a semi aggressive compound at least on soft paint like the MR2. Works well on clear coats too but I only use it by hand so very difficult as clear coats are hard. Would work well with a DA polisher. Also good for polishing lights that are faded.
CarPro Fixer. This is perfect for minor scratches and works really well on the MR2 with soft paint because it is a light polish and not to aggressive. Fixes what I need to fix and no more so I like it for that. I have got the paint to a point where it only needs light correction now. Also now that I use the 2 bucket wash method I have found the fine scratches appear far less.

Techniques for paint correction. NEVER go in circles. ALWAYS straight lines when working by hand. This stops putting nasty swirls in the paint. Much harder to see straight fine scratches in the paint vs round ones.
As Larry from AMMO NYC says, residue control. Using clean or cleaning out the pad to remove lifted paint helps reduce/eliminate putting more scratches into the paint as you try to correct it.

Always check what each method and product is doing to your paint. It's the only way to learn what is best.

Thanks @Mike Rotch for starting up this new topic and for the format.
Going with some of these things the washing process is easier.

It's not normal these days for me to drive the MR2 everyday for 2 weeks straight and over those 2 weeks 80% of the days were raining. Products used kept the dirt off the top of the car and minimal dirt stuck to the sides and sills. The wheels got rather dirty but extremely easy to clean with just a wipe down with a cloth and soap.

This is the car before washing after the 2 weeks of driving it everyday in the rain.


The roof stayed very clean with any dirt getting taken with the water as it beads off.


The bonnet still as clean as I left it after the last time I washed it.


The engine lid and boot got a bit of dirt on them but this was from a leak in the parking garage near work. Deciding not to park in my normal spot was a bad idea however no harm done because of the protection on the paint.


Dirtiest part on the car was from the wheels lifting dirt up with the water on the road.


Exhaust tips get hammered but easy to wipe down with a cloth because I have put CarPro DLUX on them. So good.


Dirt on the wheels. Fronts were cleaner than the rears.


Rears


A quick spray with the hose and most of the loose dirt like grass, feathers and paper comes off.


The bonnet looks the same pre wash as it did post wash.


CarPro DLUX on the black trim with CarPro Hydro2 Lite to boost the protection over that and on the paint. Beads like no other product I've used. Not to say there aren't others that work better.


After the wash pre drying


Last time I sprayed some Hydro2 Lite over the wheels to boost the protection of the Max Wheel Coat. Worked very well.








No post drying shots but it looks just as good as this shot.



The Carpro PERL in the dilution I used seems to have lost all it's gloss over those 2 weeks in the rain. Trying a more concentrated batch this time to see how it lasts. It still keeps the tyre blacker than not having anything on them, still beads water and doesn't collect dirt or go sticky like the sprays I've used before. Will see how the next batch works out.
 
My wheel cleaner ran out this weekend so I ordered some CarPro IronX after watching some reviews. Keen to see how it goes.
 
If that is the stuff you need to apply with gloves, I have the same stuff (Jet Black Endura)....

Pretty pleased with the longevity - can easily go a month of regular driving with not much change.
Yep, that's the stuff. Apparently they send the gloves for a reason. My work jeans now have a nice black stain down the inside pant leg. We'll see how long it lasts with my sporadic washing schedule.
 
Bought a few products today since Halfords had an offer on cleaning products (20% off all AutoGlym products too!), so here's an updated list of what I use now.

Pre-soak - Still need to get some snow foam. The only stuff Halfords do is Demon Shine and I know that's awful. Looking to get some Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam once the nearby detailing place is done moving their business.

Wheels - I bought the AutoGlym Custom Wheel Cleaner Kit today to use on my freshly powdercoated wheels, pics of it in action will be further down this post. I also bought some AutoGlym Wheel Protector to help keep them cleaner for longer, and to stop brake dust and other nasty stuff from staining my wheels.

Tyres - Still using AutoGlym Instant Tyre Dressing.

Shampoo - I bought my dad a small Meguiars cleaning kit for his birthday, so I stole the Ultimate Wash & Wax from that. Smells nice and is a lot better than the Simoniz stuff I was using before. Also bought the Meguiars Water Magnet Drying Towel, a million times better than the cheap microfibre towels I was using before. Didn't even need to ring it out, nor did it even get completely sodden, although that might be down to the Panda's small size.

Application - Good news, I bought a second bucket! Was unable to find a grit guard, but better than nothing I guess. I made sure to use my hand as a grit guard instead and tried manually getting the grit out. I also bought a Meguiars Lambswool Wash Mitt today to replace the old microfibre one that was beginning to look a little worse for wear. The bug remover on the reverse was pretty decent too.

Wax/ Sealant - I finally got round to using the Auto Finesse Tripple polish I bought at a show last year. Since this is the first time the Panda's been polished to my knowledge, I think a few more applications would be needed to really bring it out, but the Panda has a nice shine now. Was also nice and easy to buff off and didn't leave any smears behind. I also used some Meguiars Ultimate Quik Wax from the cleaning kit I bought my dad, just as a quick additional sealant. I was really impressed with how quick (fancy that) and easy it was to apply, and just like the Tripple polish, didn't leave any smears or marks behind. Now I just have to wait until it inevitably rains to see how well they all bead.

Now, as promised, photos of the wheel cleaner in action!

Pre-application. This is the nearside/passenger side front wheel. The fronts were obviously a lot worse than the back since the back only has drums.


After spraying the cleaner on. Unlike most other wheel cleaners, this one didn't smell like rotten eggs or burn your eyes. In fact, it smelled exactly like the engine degreaser we have at work.


After agitating with a brush. The kit came with two brushes, a bigger one and a smaller one. I used the bigger one and it was nice and soft on the wheels.


After rinsing the cleaner off. I made sure to give them a good scrub, but with the cleaner lifting it so quickly, I barely had to put any work in.


And here's after I sprayed the wheel protector on (and tyre dressing). You're supposed to let it dry for an hour or two, the longer the better, so I'll see how they look tomorrow.


And a bonus picture after all products were used!


One downside to all this is now you can really tell how flat and awful the bumpers are. The paint is starting to chip off on them too, so ideally they just need spraying all over again by someone who actually knows what they're doing.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/TVa99T][/url]
 
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Drying a car with a spray detailer and microfibre drying towel makes life so much easier and the results are more rewarding when maintaining waxes inbetween washes.

Wheel cleaners I tend not to buy. I usually just use All Purpose Cleaner mixed with Engine Degreaser diluted with water in a spray bottle. Way cheaper than always buying wheel cleaners so I can be quite liberal with it. I've used that concoction in plenty engine bays too and it cleans nicely while not being too harsh.

I also make use of a long wheel brush, a woolie specifically for the wheels and an old art brush I converted to use for the lugnut holes.

Finishing touches include tyre gel and some rah rah rah RIM WAX:cool:!
 
Bought some Autoglym Bird Dropping Wipes while Halfords still had their offer on today after a bird kindly treated me with this:

18118703_10212236953817595_2710706370492553305_n.jpg


It's like they know you spent hours cleaning it! Also bought some Autoglym Intensive Tar Remover while I was there after discovering the Panda had what I can only describe as tar measles. Then when I got home a dirty diesel drove past and deposited spots of soot all over the front and side :grumpy:. The reason why I spent all day Saturday detailing is because I'm supposed to be going to a show this Saturday (as a participant for the first time!) and I'm working up until then so I won't have time. At this rate I'll have to take my whole cleaning kit with me and start again...
 
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