The Photo Club - Street Photography

[boiltheocean]

So what's the Point?
The point of the photo club is get members interacting more, not only can you post images but you can also post your inspirations, techniques and other information if you wish. The more effort you put into the Photo Club the more you will get out.

The Rules
The only rule is that the discussion should follow the current theme of the thread (see title)

Who decides Themes and how often?
A new theme can be suggested by any member and can be enforced at any time, the current theme will expire when interest drops.

Themes Covered/Covering
Low-Light
Motorsport
Film
Influences
File Formats
Organisation
Lenses
Street Photography
​

 

[boiltheocean]

I've decided the opening theme should be low-light photography because for many of our members, night is much longer than day at this time of year. This is also an area which many photographers may not know how to approach well. Hopefully this thread will be of use to everyone who visits.

I'm going to start with some basics which can help improve your low-light photography.

1.Use a tripod with longer exposures to decrease motion-blur.
2. Use a wide aperture, say f1.4, to let more light onto the sensor.
3. Use a slower shutter speed to let light onto the sensor for longer.
4. Increase your ISO number.

All the methods above have drawbacks and it is important to know which method to apply to what situation. For example taking a landscape image with a wide aperture would result in a soft image, for a better result use a tripod and a slow shutter speed.

This is one of my favourite low-light images. The light trails indicate the photographer has used a slow-shutter speed and a tripod.

I took this image under low-light conditions, one of my requirements is that the subject had to be sharp, for that I had to use a faster shutter speed. If I used an ISO of 100 my images would be very under-exposed and not usable. Therefore I had increase the ISO, which increases the Noise level of the image. Noise can be dealt with in post-production using a variety of methods.

I don't know that much about dealing with noise so I would be very grateful if another member could shed some light (excuse the pun) on the subject.

 

[NISM0_SKYLINE]

So we just post pictures that relate to the title? Ok, well here's my shot at it. Let me know if I should resize.

For both of these I used a tiny tripod, because I started playing around with these settings on the trip, so it kind of wiggled around so I had to use my phone as a way to prop it up. These aren't in pitch black conditions like the traffic one, but it was around 9 or 10 P.M.

Can't remember the settings, but I was changing them for every picture. I think the lights are a little too bright, but overall I think they work.

This is one of my favorites, it's low because of the tripod, but everything is clear and nicely detailed. Again, it looks like the tower is a little washed out, but I didn't notice it until after I took the picture.

Good idea though on the thread. I'll try contribute often when I think I have a good photo that fits.

 

[boiltheocean]

So we just post pictures that relate to the title? Ok, well here's my shot at it.

Not just photos. Feel free to comment on others and share information on the theme. You can even post images found on the internet relating to the theme that you really like, It all helps yourself and others gain some knowledge and ideas.
Think of it as building up a massive book on the theme.

I really like your second photo, I guess you could try burning in the tower with Photoshop if their was any detail left.

 

[Holdenhsvgtsr]

Stupidly expensive lens do help

 

[NLxAROSA]

I don't know that much about dealing with noise so I would be very grateful if another member could shed some light (excuse the pun) on the subject.

I was recently pointed to Noise Ninja by several people. It works extremely well. 👍

As for low-light photography, it's one of my favorite areas of photography. Here's my take on it, feel free to comment or correct.

If you want to shoot low-light action (moving subjects): set diafragma to whatever is largest and set ISO to whatever is highest without too much noise (ISO 1600 will do), that should get you decent shutter times.

If you want to shoot low-light landscape/scenery: set diafragma to f/8 - f/11 (most lenses are sharpest between these apertures), ISO as low as possible (ISO 100) and use a tripod. If you really want to make sure there's no movement in your gear, use a remote and fold up the mirror.

Note that most zoom lenses do f/2.8 max., so if you want to have larger apertures, get yourself a nice prime, like the one Holdenhsvgtsr is using (Canon 50mm f/1.4 USM) or the one I am using (Sigma 50mm f/1.4 HSM DG EX).

Also note that when shooting at a large aperture like f/1.4, shooting up close and personal will really be a challenge with the shallow DOF.

Click here for a set of low-light action shots I took in the Louis Knie circus (already posted in my gallery thread as well).

 

[Syntax error]

To start with I have to say, nice idea SweetshopUnion. Low level light photography is a great topic to start with as well. There can easily be such drama in a low light shot.

Here are two shots I've taken last year that are lo light shots. Both are racing shots with similar settings but one fundamental difference.

This first shot is probably one of my more popular motorsport shots for some reason. Not really a lot of action in it, just a lotus at full sprint in the dark of the night. Night racing is particularity difficult as the tracks are usually fairly poorly lit and the cars are very fast. I have to be maneuverable as well so tripods are out of the question, some opt for monopods but I find them pretty uncomfortable to use. I wanted my shot to be well lit in this circumstance so I found a nice spot on the circuit that was the closest point to a spot light. I wanted a panning shot so I set my camera to shutter priority and dialed in 1/60 and pushed my ISO up to 3200. This gave me an average reading of about 4-6/f on cars going past but in this shot the aperture came in at 4.5f. Focal length as 200mm.

This one is one of my favorites. Yet again a racing shot, the sun was well on it's way down and heavy clouds were rolling in. I really wanted to capture the drama of the sky in this one mostly, the car was only a secondary subject here. Actually pretty similar settings to the previous shot, ISO 3200, 1/60 for panning, 4f but at 70mm. The difference here however is the metering technique. The lotus shot was set to spot metering as I wanted my light reading to come from the car. With this shot, I chose to use matrix metering (evaluative metering or whatever fancy name they have), this has the camera pick out the the right aperture for the background in shutter priority mode.

 

[homeforsummer]

I'll be the first to admit - although I'm a big fan of low-light photography and love the effects that photographers adept at the technique can get - I don't like shooting in low light much. It's probably a mixture of things.

Firstly, my skills probably aren't up to scratch. I still haven't spent a great deal of time playing with aperture and shutter settings, at least not away from the motorsport scene. I'm relatively new to scenic photography, photographing buildings, places, people and that sort of thing, and I often lose the will to play too much with settings on the fly - it often feels like a hassle.

I also think my camera is partly to blame (I know - a bad craftsman blames his tools). A 6mp sensor is now a little limiting for me I think, and I haven't got any lenses with a very wide aperture so often have to shoot at a higher ISO, and with a small sensor the noise is more noticeable than with something bigger.

However, it's not for the want of trying, and I've had a go at a few photos in low light. The first one is hand-held, the second and third were taken with a tripod. The bottom shot used a ten second exposure time, which is a technique I like for giving the water a smooth look.

I wasn't happy with the colour of the first shot in the original (not to mention the specks on the sensor/lens that I forgot to edit out...), so I enhanced it with GIMP to reflect the sort of colours the sky actually was a little better.

Critique would be very welcome - I'm certainly not averse to learning more on techniques. The trouble is that I know the principles of getting a good shot, but it's often easier to talk about than it is to achieve!

 

[F1GTR]

A tip for low light photography: learn to hold the camera properly! Left hand under the lens, with the body of the camera resting on your palm (though the palm rest depends on what lens you're using). Your thumb will be gripping the left side of the lens. Legs should be shoulder width apart, and your elbows should be tucked in, resting on your chest. Compose your shot, take a deep breath, hold that breath, and squeeze the release - don't jab at it. You can gain quite a huge advantage in terms of shutter speeds - I've managed to shoot at around 1/30 with a 135mm lens using that technique. Very useful if you have a slow lens.

 

[balang_479]

Here are some low-light shots ive taken, never done this before...

I had a hard time getting this shot, i couldnt get enough cars to pass by otherwise the photo would be really bright, ISO was at its lowest and so was F-number which i think was the problem... so much to learn.

Simple, long exposure.

 

[Cano]

Syntax Error, thos two are IMPRESSIVE!!! Nice execution in first, awesome awesome composition in second and good execution too. ISO on the second one?

EDIT: Forget that, I see you did post it. Awesome shots.

 

[Syntax error]

A tip for low light photography: learn to hold the camera properly! Left hand under the lens, with the body of the camera resting on your palm (though the palm rest depends on what lens you're using). Your thumb will be gripping the left side of the lens. Legs should be shoulder width apart, and your elbows should be tucked in, resting on your chest. Compose your shot, take a deep breath, hold that breath, and squeeze the release - don't jab at it. You can gain quite a huge advantage in terms of shutter speeds - I've managed to shoot at around 1/30 with a 135mm lens using that technique. Very useful if you have a slow lens.

I find resting the corner of the camera on my shoulder a good technique. Works best with a grip though. Joe McNally (this guy is a genius and I can recommend if there is one book on lighting you buy, it's his one - The Hot Shoe Diaries) has a youtube clip here:


Oh and this is his book, best read ever:

Syntax Error, thos two are IMPRESSIVE!!! Nice execution in first, awesome awesome composition in second and good execution too. ISO on the second one?

EDIT: Forget that, I see you did post it. Awesome shots.

Thanks Cano

 

[boiltheocean]

Haha! that Joe McNally guy is crazy, I could easily listen to him for ages. Will try out his tips for sure when I have the chance. Reflecting back actually I think I've been using the bent over stance way too much. I really need to get that in check soon.

homeforsummer, I really like the 1st and 3rd images you posted, spot on metering and post-production.
balang, I think the final image is very nice, I love the different colours though the clouds/fog, it's only spoilt by the branches in the foreground.

 

[Boffin]

Hmmm I have a few low light shots. I really like painting with the light though. I'll rummage around for a link that made my jaw drop with what they did, plus my own. My latest in my gallery were dont in low light. Only light from the christmas tree.

 

[Syntax error]

Haha! that Joe McNally guy is crazy, I could easily listen to him for ages. Will try out his tips for sure when I have the chance. Reflecting back actually I think I've been using the bent over stance way too much. I really need to get that in check soon.

He goes into the stance at quite a big length in the book as well, including how to do the grip whilst holding an off camera flash In all seriousness, if there is only one photography book you ever read, it should be the one I mentioned written by him. Very insightful and descriptive. He shows you some of his better know work and how he set up lighting for them. Full of great tricks of the trade, especially when it comes to working in low level light situations. I could bang on forever about it really but I'll get back on topic now.


Here is a concert shot I took recently. Aussies will recognize this iconic rocker as Jimmy Barnes. He has aged terribly but he is very energetic on stage still which called for a relatively quick shutter speed to get a snap of the action. Shot with aperture priority with the following settings: ISO 1600, f/4, 1/160sec, 80mm and exposure biased -0.3 steps. The exposure biased was under expose the shot a tad as I felt that a gritty feel to the shot was appropriate.

This shot is of the crowd watching the above concert. Here I used the same exposure bias as before (-0.3 steps) but to make sure the above background is totally blacked out. Settings are 1/25sec, F/4, ISO 3200, 105 mm shot in aperture priority.

 

[bergauk]

So the first picture, was taken at roughly 3am or something using my mothers point and shoot a few months ago. Set it up for macro, lowered the ISO down 80 I believe and slowed the shutter down as slow as it could go. The result was this. The only light that was around was the tv, and light from the streetlight outside on the other side of the street.

Second picture was the same exact formula except for me forgetting to set the white balance up, and not using the macro mode. Both are unbelievably clear.

 

[Scaff]

I haven't done much low-light stuff since moving to digital, however it is an area I used to love with my old 35mm gear.

The following are three from my film days, taken around 18 years ago of a friends band.






I do apologise for the poor quality, but my scanner is on its last legs.

These were all shot on a Canon T90 with an 85mm F2, on Ilford HP5 plus pushed to 3200 ASA, developed and printed myself.

The one thing that digital does most certainly bring to low light work is the ability to know if you have the exposure right or not.

Here's one of the few low light shots I've taken on digital.



Fuji S2 Pro with a 50mm f1.8, 1600 ASA and 1/60 @ f1.8


Regards

Scaff

 

[Diego440]

A couple of self-portaits



Can't really remember the name/model of the camera, though I could find out. In any case, there's a heavy influx of Photoshop on them, plus a 150 watt lighbulb hanging close to my head.

 

[Syntax error]

Regards

Scaff

This is shot is awesome Scaff. 👍

 

[Bram Turismo]

I can't say just how brilliant this image is. There is so much detail, action and sharpness in that Elise image. It seriously reminds me of the night images posted over at www.lemans.org whenever the race is on. Fantastic job Syntax! 👍

 

[Scaff]

This is shot is awesome Scaff. 👍

Thanks, it is a shot I'm still to this day proud of.

It also shows just how good the image quality of real film is, even when pushed well beyond it ASA rating. The grain is very visible, but nice and uniform in size and, for me, adds to the image. I have those printed on 16" x 12" and they still look good.

Its something that even with good software, digital struggles to get close to.

I need to get a good scanner as I have a lot of shots that I think are far better than that, but only have them on 35mm neg, contact sheet or 16" x 12". Can't currently scan any of that.


Regards

Scaff

 

[homeforsummer]

homeforsummer, I really like the 1st and 3rd images you posted, spot on metering and post-production.

Thanks 👍 They're my favourites out of the three too. Took this one tonight:

2.5s exposure, ISO 200, f7.1, 90mm focal length, no flash (lighting was from a couple of streetlights). I think it came out quite nicely.

 

[Syntax error]

I can't say just how brilliant this image is. There is so much detail, action and sharpness in that Elise image. It seriously reminds me of the night images posted over at www.lemans.org whenever the race is on. Fantastic job Syntax! 👍

Thanks Bram

It also shows just how good the image quality of real film is, even when pushed well beyond it ASA rating. The grain is very visible, but nice and uniform in size and, for me, adds to the image. I have those printed on 16" x 12" and they still look good.

Its something that even with good software, digital struggles to get close to.


Regards

Scaff

I love film grain. I think the problem with hi ISO digital is not so much that a graining exists but that it's blotty and inconsistent. I also think I made up two words in that previous sentence






homeforsummer, Nice shot dude. I like it. 👍

 

[boiltheocean]

Thanks, it is a shot I'm still to this day proud of.

It also shows just how good the image quality of real film is, even when pushed well beyond it ASA rating. The grain is very visible, but nice and uniform in size and, for me, adds to the image. I have those printed on 16" x 12" and they still look good.

Its something that even with good software, digital struggles to get close to.

And so you should be, wonderful shot! I completely agree about Film, it's got that feeling that digital cannot ever bring to a picture. I absolutely loved shooting in Film for my first few college assignments, I would even more so if I could afford it. In fact I may have to invest in a few rolls of film, carry the Fujica round with me if I go hunting for landscapes.

 

[Syntax error]

I might put up a suggestion for a new theme as it would seem we have exhausted low level light discussion.

Being a motorsport (sim) website and probably one of the more popular topics to shoot by members here, I would suggest the discussion move to motorsport related photography if no one has any objections. I will also leave this link right here of some really inspiring photos of the 2010 Dakar: http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/2010/01/dakar_rally_2010.html

Since SSU is running this thread I'll wait for him to confirm the new topic is okay and then we can move forward with further discussion.

 

[boiltheocean]

I might put up a suggestion for a new theme as it would seem we have exhausted low level light discussion.

Being a motorsport (sim) website and probably one of the more popular topics to shoot by members here, I would suggest the discussion move to motorsport related photography if no one has any objections. I will also leave this link right here of some really inspiring photos of the 2010 Dakar: http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/2010/01/dakar_rally_2010.html

Since SSU is running this thread I'll wait for him to confirm the new topic is okay and then we can move forward with further discussion.

Agreed I was thinking it was time for a change today. Motorsport it is.

 

[Syntax error]

Cool. I guess I'll kick it of then.

Although it maybe be obvious to most people, I will probably start with reminding everyone that wants to or does shoot motor sport events that safety is first. Listen to any and all instructions from marshals. They are there for both your safety as well as the drivers. Also if you do get the opportunity to shoot from the competitors side of the fence, make sure you are visible to everyone and that you have appropriate safety gear. Be mindful of your track position and most importantly be don't ever sit down when the track is hot, you won't just miss any good action that might be happening but also you can't get out of the way if some one is heading straight for you.



Anyway here are a few of my favorites from recent events and how I went about capturing the shots:

V8SC Telstra 500 - The cars at this corner are coming in hot from a very long straight into a really sharp chicane. The track itself doesn't lend itself to too many passing opportunities or chance to reduce lap time with effective cornering which intern pushed the drivers to try and cut as much off this corner they could. This meant that most cars ended up with two wheels in the air coming through here. I felt the best option here was to capture the action with a freeze frame shot. The shutter speed didn't need to be too high as it is a fair slow section of the track. 1/250sec, f5.6, ISO 100 & focal length of 267mm

I'm sure everyone here has seen this shot from me already. I thought I'd include it here as it is one of my favorites. I wanted to make sure the S bend was visible but at the same time I didn't want it to be a bland static shot so I dropped the shutter speed on this one and panned. To ensure my shutter speed was exactly what I wanted, I shot in shutter priority. 1/60sec, f/18, ISO 100 & focal length 186mm.

 

[Diego440]

Could I suggest a new thread be created for this Motorsport thingie... when I posted my original pic, it was on topic... now it's not.

 

[boiltheocean]

Could I suggest a new thread be created for this Motorsport thingie... when I posted my original pic, it was on topic... now it's not.

It's still on the topic overall as the point of this to get information no matter what the subject. The themes are just used to put the info across in a matter we all understand. If it helps I'll link to the first post of each new theme in the original post.

 

[Diego440]

That works for me... should it work for everyone else, then go for it 👍