The search for a V8 - need help

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ghsnu

ghsnu

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spedy7
Thread redo :p

I need some help in finding a V8 for my '66 Mustang. It's once was a V8 model, so there's no need for suspension, etc.

I'm looking for something I can get some ponies out of for a decent price and is complete/almost complete. So far I've found this: http://sierravista.craigslist.org/pts/3024438048.html , but we don't have the money to rebuild an engine at the time.

My dad recently found a 351W out in Texas for $350 - all complete - BUT he won't bother driving down there...and I can tell that he REALLY wants it.
 
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Stay calm, don't jump onto the first block you find. There are always more options out there. You live in frikkin' V8 country.

This one isn't even complete, and it already has been bored over. Find a complete one, pref . completely stock. Or spent some more bucks on a new engine.

And on a side note, the car does run now, doesn't it? Just drive it, save money for decent new parts for your pony vehicle.
 
You need to find an LS1.
 
The only problem with an LS1 is the GM car it's wrapped in...
 
If the crank broke, steer clear of that motor. If it's just worn out...That's a judgement call.
When cranks break, it is ALWAYS a bad sign. It usually means a cracked block.
Is this motor going in a Mustang?
Keep in mind that the 302 is the same block, with bigger heads....
Depends if you want historically correct, or a "runner" though.
 
Dennisch
I have a feeling that this will summon Slashfan.


Edit

Complete engine, in Texas. :D
Only 350 Dollar.
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Yup


KEEP UR RUDDY GM ENGINES OUTTA MY FORD







If you want to stay original, get the 289, and stroke it. You will gain a lot of power. You got 351 Windsor or Cleveland or even a 302. Options are endless
 
Gil
If the crank broke, steer clear of that motor. If it's just worn out...That's a judgement call.
When cranks break, it is ALWAYS a bad sign. It usually means a cracked block.
Is this motor going in a Mustang?
Keep in mind that the 302 is the same block, with bigger heads....
Depends if you want historically correct, or a "runner" though.
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The 302 is a 289 with a longer stroke. Heads were indentical until 1968
 
Dude, Lxx's can't keep up with Volvo 740 turbos.. :D
 
Like I said there are endless options. DO NOT JUMP ON THE FIRST BLOCK YOU FIND. Like said before, a broken crank is a good sign the block has a crack. Have it sonic tested before purchase or pick another block. It is not hard to get insane hp and torque figures from these engines. A stock hi-po from 1966 put out about 271hp (really about 280) and with the .030 bore, pistons, aluminum heads, intake, headers and carb will bump you at least 375hp. Cam will throw you over 425 with ease. Port the heads and stroke it and you will have a monster on your hands....
 
Eric.
Too hard to catch up to?
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I'm not one to get into a brand war, but that was awesome :lol:
 
Considering I got a 91 5.0 long block for $200 with 90,000 miles on it, bored .030 over, I would say keep looking.
 
ghsnu
My dad managed to find a guy who's selling a 1966 289 that's "90% complete and needs a crankshaft." It's 0.030" bored over. $600 and he knows where two other '66 mustangs are that are sitting in wrecking yards.

Considering the fact Craigslist only has rusty blocks, heads, and crankshafts - it sounds like an ok buy if I'm thinking we could talk him down to $500 or $400.
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1. Buy engine
2. Sell/advertise to someone involved in the European historic racing scene.
3. ????
4. PROFIT!!!

5. Buy 'crate' 302 and restore the rest of your car with the proceeds. True story.
 
TheCracker
1. Buy engine
2. Sell/advertise to someone involved in the European historic racing scene.
3. ????
4. PROFIT!!!

5. Buy 'crate' 302 and restore the rest of your car with the proceeds. True story.
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Never. Ever. Buy a crate engine. EVER. Complete waste of money. Most of the times you can get it and build it yourself (or have someone do it) and get more power for at least $5k cheaper. Not worth the extra cost at all. Especially with the cost of shipping.




EDIT:

At the op, if you don't want to build it with performance parts, there is always the option of a stock parts build, which is very mild but will bumpp you up noticably in power. For this though I'd scrap a 289 and get a 351 because 1969 was the best year for that engine. First, you would need to convert the intake to a 4 barrel intake if you find a 2bbl. Mind you, 351W's are easier to find than 289's. You have several options, and for this build:

Any year 351W will do, pre 1974 are the strongest due to the higher nickel content however all 351s are capable of 800+hp on a stock block. So no need to worry about this, but pre 1974 are the best if you ever want to take this further. If you end up with a block after 1974, pretty much everything on them is **** stock. Higher deck height that lowers compression with garbage smog heads etc.

Best OEM parts, some aftermarket:


1969 4bbl intake
Block bored .030
1969 302 Heads (had smaller combustion chambers than later, increase of compression) Make sure you get the valve seats hardend, most shops will know about this. GT40 and GT40P heads from late model 302's and 351W's (late 1990s) are some of the best stock heads available, you can fetch a pair for about $400 and fully ported will net you a good 150+hp increase. Cleveland 2V, 4V, and Aussie 4V heads will give you a Boss engine. These heads fully ported will give you 10:1 compression and higher if permitted (up to 12:1 or more). Premo full would be best. Putting 1969 302 heads will require you to drill the block out so the head bolts will fit due to different sizes. This is not a very common practice (not many know about this) but when put to use it's a very good trick to have on this engine. Really anything is better thatn 1975 and up stock heads.
Longtube headers
Flowmaster exhaust
Holley 650CFM Vaccuum Secondary 4 Barrel Carburetor with Ford A/T Kickdown (if it's automatic transmission, not mandatory)
RV Cam (mild street camshaft)
MSD Ignition (Blaster II)
Accel Plugs/Wires
Wiseco .030 over pistons/small dish
400M Engine Rods
Rockers (roller conversion is a pain in the ass, don't bother with blocks older than 1992)

If you want a forged rotating assembly you can get a lot of power from those as well.


This mild build will bump up a 290hp 351W to about 350-375hp at the wheels and if you add in a few more things you can easily get 450hp out of stock parts.
 
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Yes, the engine will be going into a Mustang.

My dad stopped by the seller's house yesterday, turns out the thing was crap. Cracked head, wrong year ('65), and missing more than expected. No go.

My uncle was talking about a 351W had in his Bronco - had plenty of get-up-and-go. I'm still thinking of what to put in - 289, 302, 351, 427. Definitely want to keep it carbureted, though I'm not going for a restoration. Only issue is trying to find a block or somewhat complete engine around here. Looking at crate engines only make me cringe at the price tag, so I don't think I'm going to go that route just yet.

Edit: Also been toying with the idea of a small V12 if it's possible. I'm a Ferrari nut, if ya can't tell xD.
 
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ghsnu
Edit: Also been toying with the idea of a small V12 if it's possible. I'm a Ferrari nut, if ya can't tell xD.
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:lol:

Start saving. And some more saving. And some more.

And then you buy a Ford V8. Nothing else.
 
Get a 351W. I've got a set of Holley carbs I could sell you dirt cheap.Thats not discussion for here though. Pm me if you want.

351W are great engines, some of the best ever built. Keep in mind that a 351W can be built up to a 427, for cheap and having less weight than a 427. 427 won't fit anyway, and there is more aftermarket support for the 351W. I do have a spare 351 block but I need it :/
 
EDIT.

V12 won't fit and won't bolt up to anything. Don't bother unless you want to rip the drivetrain out too.
 
Slashfan
Get a 351W. I've got a set of Holley carbs I could sell you dirt cheap.Thats not discussion for here though. Pm me if you want.

351W are great engines, some of the best ever built. Keep in mind that a 351W can be built up to a 427, for cheap and having less weight than a 427. 427 won't fit anyway, and there is more aftermarket support for the 351W. I do have a spare 351 block but I need it :/
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:ouch:

Might take up your offer on the carbs if we can find a block.

Slashfan
EDIT.

V12 won't fit and won't bolt up to anything. Don't bother unless you want to rip the drivetrain out too.
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Hey, a man can dream, can't he? :p
 
Oh for sure. Too bad it wouldn't work out though.


I've got them pretty cheap but like I said that is not for here, PM me for details. I live in NY however so I don't know how much it would be to ship. They are way cheaper than new though and in pretty darn good shape.


Even though you want a V8, to be honest you can get V8 power out of that 6 banger for pretty cheap and keeping the front end weight down and keeping current fuel economy. 400+hp is not uncommon for those, and it will hold 550+. I doubt you'd want taht much though lol.



EDIT: Now may I ask, is your Mustang an automatic or manual? If it's auto, I'm willing to bet it's a Ford C4 3-speed automatic. If it's manual it's a 4-speed. Either way both with hold great power without re-gearing them. Also it's probably best to find out what rear end ratio you have too because a slight change in that can cause substantial differences. Depending on the gears you can have some fun with that 88hp...

Also the carbs are both 4 barrel, one is 625cfm and the other 650. The 650 has a slight crack by the bolt hole. The 625 needs a bad rebuild HOWEVER they both come with rebuild kits. They are off my truck and have been run in pretty well so I know they work good.


Couldn't find any blocks on ebay for a 289, however a search for a 302 gave me a bazillion results in your price range I think.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...570.l1313&_nkw=ford+302+engine+block&_sacat=0
 
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EDIT

For transmission it may also be a Cruise O Matic 3 speed auto.
 
Found an almost complete 351W for $350: http://sierravista.craigslist.org/pts/3024438048.html
Don't know if it's worth checking out. I'll keep searching.

I currently have a 3 speed manual, not sure what it is. As for the 6cyl, what would I be looking at for a 300+HP motor? Parts? Looking at the casting numbers also shows the head being from a '77...if that makes any difference.

A guy on another forum mentioned shaving the heads - what does this mean?
 
GET THAT BLOCK NOW. That is a 1974 block, one of the best blocks you can get. Throw a set of alumunim heads and a 4 bbl intake on that and you got yourself a 350hp engine.

Anything from 1973 and up from Ford in stock from is crap. You can get 300hp from a 6 with ease. Heads, headers, intake, carb and cam will put you in that range easy. Or you can put intake and headers + carb and turbo it.

He meanseither get rid of them or port them out but stock iron heads are not very good no matter the year. Cleveland heads are the way to go if you want stock.

I would pick up that 351W FAST. It has GT40 heads, some of the best factory heads you can get and that is dirt cheap. Those heads go for $500 alone...

3 Speed manual is a decent trans. Will hold high power.
 
Slashfan
GET THAT BLOCK NOW. That is a 1974 block, one of the best blocks you can get. Throw a set of alumunim heads and a 4 bbl intake on that and you got yourself a 350hp engine.
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This. Altough, Slashfan, I think you better go and read the add again. The thing does not have GT40 heads, it says "put on GT40 heads and you will have a beast".

Altough indeed, our not-quite Mustang friend Slash is right in that the 74 block is a very good starting point for a cool street engine due to it's taller deck.

And his calculations of about 350 horses with stuff you can find used on e-bay for cheap sounds about right. You can have a a pretty fun engine for about peanuts because you can run used stuff, since you're not running Pro Stock or anything like that. For a few stoms in the throttle now and then, this is a very good starting point, and it's a great price for an already cleaned out engine that you can be asured ran before it was pulled from the donor. I'd get it.
 
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