The YLOD Thread! What is it and how to avoid it when playing GT5.

  • Thread starter FlareKR
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FlareKR
More recently now, PS3s are dropping out of their lives from GT5, the culprit; the not-so-infamous-as-the-RROD, the Yellow Light of Death/Doom (YLOD). Maybe this thread will be common sense to some of you, but in case you need a refresher, a laugh, or actual info, read on!

THE Yellow Light of DEATH!


ps3yellowlight2.jpg


What the hell is a YLOD?
For those of you living in a cave (presumably with a PS3 and internet since you're reading this), the YLOD is a yellow light that appears where the normal green light is. So what does that mean? It means you're PS3 just got wasted. It's similar to the laughable failure pitiful XBox 360 players get every sabbath, the Red Rings of Death (RROD).

You're still not telling me what it means.

No one really knows for sure what the hell it means anyway, Sony has never told the exact way it happens. We do however have a few guesses.
A. Hardware malfunction from overheating
B. Power supply screw ups

Mainly though, it is an overheating issue, so if you're playing your PS3 in the back of your F-150 outside your home in Albuquerque, New Mexico when it's 120 F, you're asking for three beeps and a yellow DING! Also because GT5 is just about the most hardware hogging and insanely power hoggish game on the PS3 to date, you're chances are gonna go up.

What are the chances of getting it, and how do I not get it?!


This isn't the XBox, so chances are very slim, ranging from 0.7% to 2%. The most susceptible of PS3s getting it are the fat ones, yup, mainly the original launch 60GB PS3. 20GB never really had this issue, so the next one in line for a heart attack is the 80GB (and I own one, so I'm doing this out of all our fattie's goods). Another reason why they could fail is because of the fact they play PS2 games, adding to the hardware, unlike the Slims which do not, thus having a lower to no chance at all getting a YLOD.
So if you want to get all techie and look on the back of your PS3 and if you have one of these models:
CECHA
CECHC
CECHE
CECHB
Congratulations, your PS3 has type-2 diabetes which is not good at all!

UPDATE: User Toronado says it has more to do with the age of the PS3 model, and nothing to do with backwards compatibility. User Ubiquitous has also brought up the fact that the components in the PS3 are soldered with crappy-@$$ tin instead of ol' reliable lead which due to regulations *cough*California*cough*, and processing down in Taiwan (which is just about ruled by China), it has a much lower melting point by about 100 degrees Celsius (look at that, I learned something in Chem), causing it to crack when it cools up again and messing up the hardware badly. Apart from that I guess it's safe to eat your PS3 and not get cancer in a state called California, cause that's where it's known to cause cancer, right?

Luckily, there are a couple ways not to get the YLOD, and will save you the time and money (lots o' muneh!) later.

1. Don't play GT5 (or any other game for that matter) long period of time, you should leave the MAX to 2 or 3 hours. After that, let it cool for a while, bout 20 minutes while you can go do things like
-EAT
-EXERCISE
-PERFORM BOWEL MOVEMENTS
-WORK ON YOUR REAL CAR
-HOMEWORK
-PUT THE KIDS TO BED
-TALK TO CREATURES ON TWO LEGS WITH TWO ARMS AND A HEAD, WHICH COULD BE OTHER HUMAN BEINGS
But of course, I doubt that you'll remember that. I don't either. That brings us to number 2.

2. Invest in a cooling fan for your PS3. This is a very easy way to cool your PS3 down and play longer. They run at around $20 at a GameStop, but if you trust the internet, you could find them cheaper.
It's a wonderful a mystical place where you could find them; it's called Google.com.
Or if you want to be ghetto like me, get some ice cubes in a baggie, cover it with a thin towel, and rub your PS3. It's not the best of ideas, but it's been working, without any screw ups (I did mention to close the bag too, right?)

UPDATE: The knowledgeable user Toronado found a thread on tips to cooling your PS3. Here's the link:
http://boardsus.playstation.com/t5/...eener-PS3-system-Models/m-p/45650070#M4356066.

Another very easy way to cool your PS3 is how you position it. Let's say we have it longitudinal.
the580ps3.jpg

The heat doesn't escape very well, the exhaust vents are in the back and on the right. Now it's not a car so it's not moving away from that heat, which rises up, but the heat has trouble doing so because you put it "sideways". And if you have the back vents toward the wall, that's a bad idea too, keep it about 3" inches away so it not only vents well, so it can still hide the ugly wires you were probably trying to hide in the first place. Of course, don't take it away from the wall so much that it falls off whatever it's resting on, funny for us, a call to Sony for you.
playstation-3.jpg

This is the "correct", "right side up", way to put it. Exhaust now rises out of the side vents, and the back still has as much space as it did in the first place. Now I know what you could be saying "But Flare, I don't have space to do that." Then that is very unfortunate because not even Google is going to tell you the common sense way how to make more space...go find some. But if you can't, you can't; that's just the way it is, things'll never be the same.


3. Dust off your PS3 in a couple different methods. I use a can of compressed air that's $10 to get the dust off from the inside, you gotta be careful though, or you'll blow one of the components out of place. I hear some people use a vacuum :odd: which I really don't recommend (a friend called static hides in the hose and jumps in screwing up your PS3 like a blind kid having a hissy fit over dominoes), and some use car wax on a PS3, which only works on the outside of the PS3 if you have a glossy fat one, don't frieking put wax on the motherboard.:dunce:

4. DO NOT put fire on your PS3, douse it with water, honor it in a tribal Hawaiian fire dance, play hot potato with it, use it as a grill (it's happened, Google it), smash it and try to revive it with a Phoenix Down, slap it around because your B-Spec driver's an idiot, give it blunts, dress it up in a sweater for the season, drop it to see if even gravity can affect the mighty awesomeness of the PS3, take it to a KISS concert, or do any other stupid 🤬 that's common sense not to do, and probably on the pages of the Japanese instruction book for the PS3.

5. Last but not least, don't be the guy who spends entire weekends playing Call of :dunce: without stop, drinking Red Bulls, and missing mortgage payments. Number one you'll end up like this:
FatNerd.jpg

Number two, you should be going out with one of these two
random_hot_girl_45.jpg

or
bugatti-veyron.jpg

Maybe both if you're that lucky
AlfaRomeoC8.jpg
(one of them will have to go in the trunk, but their both coming with you)

...I got a YLOD...
Either you're unlucky or you weren't paying attention. You have two options.

-One, you can take the red pill and send it to Sony, of course that'll cost you $150 and you're memory is gone for good (unless you were smart enough to transfer it to another HDD before it blew over, or switch it with another HDD before you send it 💡)

-Two, there are people on eBay and a couple of stores around your area who fix it (found none in Antartica, but Google is again your friend). Again, that's if you trust the internet and a person in a shady smoke filled shop with a couple missing teeth. You do it at your own risk.

- The blue pill; buy a new one, it's the most arrogant and un-helping answer I can give.

For anymore questions visit Google.com
or
visit this thread here
http://boardsus.playstation.com/t5/...-YLOD-Informative-Still-Thread-R/m-p/40726489

Happy GT-ing and watch that YLOD
3-05.jpg

:gtpflag:
 
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buy a new one would be best if you dont want to pay sony to fix the fat thing or you dont feel well with attempting to fix it

plus a new one will have warrenty and a larger HDD, you may also be able to buy more warrenty(i got 3 extra years on my PS3 slim for a total of 4)


plus newer ones take up less space
 
Another reason why they could fail is because of the fact they play PS2 games, adding to the hardware, unlike the 20GB and Slims which do not, thus having a lower to no chance at all getting a YLOD.
This is completely untrue. Not only does the YLoD have nothing to do with the backwards compatibility, but the CECHB model PS3 could play PS2 games and is just as susceptible to getting it as the CECHA, CECHC and CECHE are.

It has to do with age of the systems, some design flaws that some of them suffered from because of cost-cutting by Sony (due to the fan design), and that the early PS3 models ran much hotter and used more power than the later phat models did.
And that being said, all PS3 phats can get the YLoD if the circumstances happen. In fact, it is a fairly common reason for system death in the first PS3 hardware revision, the 40GB CECHG model.

1. Don't play GT5 (or any other game for that matter) long period of time, you should leave the MAX to 2 or 3 hours. After that, let it cool for a while, bout 20 minutes while you can go do things like
If your PS3 is in such dire straights that you can only play it for a few hours before being forced to shut it off, it is going to blow up on you anyways.

2. Invest in a cooling fan for your PS3. This is a very easy way to cool your PS3 down and play longer. They run at around $20 at a GameStop, but if you trust the internet, you could find them cheaper.
These cause more problems than they fix.
 
The real problem is the fact that the solder has no lead in it, they have to use tin solder on electronics these days. Tin solder does not enjoy being heated up to high temperatures and then rapidly cooling (turning console off) before being rapidly heated again next time you turn it on.

These sharp temperature fluctuations within the solder cause it to start cracking. If you are unlucky it will end up cracking to the point where it will break a circuit and those your PS3 will YLOD and not work.

It's not solely an overheating issue and playing the PS3 for 20hours on the bounce will not necessarily cause you to have a YLOD.

Consoles are more vulnerable to this flaw because they feature densely packed components in a case which isn't best designed for cooling (and of course they cut corners too).

Of course, preventing your console from ever getting very hot will likely reduce the chances of a problem slightly due to the fact you are decreasing the temperature range that the solder has to endure.

I feel like my 80GB PS3 is on borrowed time and it certainly puts me off playing GT5. I only play in sustained periods and tend to let the PS3 'warm up' and 'cool down' before/after a session.

Half the time I feel like cutting my losses and selling the console on ebay. But I think if I did that I'd end up buying an xbox 360 over another PS3.
 
Also for repair try gophermods.com I had yold on my orginal 60gb they fix it for $70 with a 90 day warranty plus they sent my game that was stuck inside the system
 
Hello there. It seems you did not mention the 40GB PS3. Would the 40GB version commonly have the YLOD?

I haven't heard the 40GBs having YLODs, even though their probably have been a bunch, so they're defiantly liable for one. It's all the older ones that are in trouble.

This is completely untrue. Not only does the YLoD have nothing to do with the backwards compatibility, but the CECHB model PS3 could play PS2 games and is just as susceptible to getting it as the CECHA, CECHC and CECHE are.

It has to do with age of the systems, some design flaws that some of them suffered from because of cost-cutting by Sony (due to the fan design), and that the early PS3 models ran much hotter and used more power than the later phat models did.
And that being said, all PS3 phats can get the YLoD if the circumstances happen. In fact, it is a fairly common reason for system death in the first PS3 hardware revision, the 40GB CECHG model.


If your PS3 is in such dire straights that you can only play it for a few hours before being forced to shut it off, it is going to blow up on you anyways.


These cause more problems than they fix.
You are correct on the backwards compatability, it should be noted as a quincedence. And of course cramming the power brick and a little fan into the PS3 is probably the best way to get Smokey mad. I also did note that no one (not even I) pays attention to restrained playing. None of us read the health warnings or the 15 minute crap. And about the fans, yes some hinder more than help, depends on which one you get depending on their reviews.
I'll add you post info up to the thread.
 
There is a thread on the Playstation forums that talks about things that can be done to extend the life of phat PS3s.

Linky.

I also posted some general information about which things are easier to do than others, but I have to find the thread I posted it in.
 
There is a thread on the Playstation forums that talks about things that can be done to extend the life of phat PS3s.

Linky.

I also posted some general information about which things are easier to do than others, but I have to find the thread I posted it in.
Thanks man, you have more knowledge in all of this than me, thanks.
I put the link up in the post.
 
Hello there. It seems you did not mention the 40GB PS3. Would the 40GB version commonly have the YLOD?

I had 2 40gb ps3s go ylod on me. 1st one replaced under warranty. 2nd one sold on ebay as faulty.
 
I was under the impression it was the heating and then rapid cooling of the system (repeat a zilling times) which causes the solder joints to crack. this would contradict what you are suggesting by playing for 3hours then letting the ps3 coool..........

I myself have just been leaving my PS3 on mostly although it has been a concern as before GT5 this 3-4 year old ps3 was hardly ever switched on.
 
I was under the impression it was the heating and then rapid cooling of the system (repeat a zilling times) which causes the solder joints to crack. this would contradict what you are suggesting by playing for 3hours then letting the ps3 coool..........
Not really. The issue that causes the solder to crack is the system getting very hot (usually from poor ventilation combined with long use) and then cooling down quickly. Using it over short periods of time prevents it from getting very hot, though if it is poorly ventilated short bursts may exacerbate problems with the solder.
 
20GB never really had this issue, so the next one in line for a heart attack is the 80GB (and I own one, so I'm doing this out of all our fattie's goods). Another reason why they could fail is because of the fact they play PS2 games, adding to the hardware, unlike the 20GB and Slims which do not, thus having a lower to no chance at all getting a YLOD.

my 20 gig plays ps2 games just fine...

aaaaand i've never had it kick into any of the louder fan speeds while playing gt5 like it does with some other games, but maybe that's just because it's winter so it's generally cooler in the house?
 
This is completely untrue. Not only does the YLoD have nothing to do with the backwards compatibility, but the CECHB model PS3 could play PS2 games and is just as susceptible to getting it as the CECHA, CECHC and CECHE are.

It has to do with age of the systems, some design flaws that some of them suffered from because of cost-cutting by Sony (due to the fan design), and that the early PS3 models ran much hotter and used more power than the later phat models did.
And that being said, all PS3 phats can get the YLoD if the circumstances happen. In fact, it is a fairly common reason for system death in the first PS3 hardware revision, the 40GB CECHG model.


If your PS3 is in such dire straights that you can only play it for a few hours before being forced to shut it off, it is going to blow up on you anyways.


These cause more problems than they fix.

Also the 20GB do play PS2 games to add to your argument.
 
Could someone explain how to replace the fan.
Not really. I've done it before, twice. However, you'd be better off finding a disassembly tutorial on the internet, because it isn't really something that you want to read a bunch of text instructions for.

Also the 20GB do play PS2 games to add to your argument.
I already said that in the post you quoted.
 
Not really. The issue that causes the solder to crack is the system getting very hot (usually from poor ventilation combined with long use) and then cooling down quickly. Using it over short periods of time prevents it from getting very hot, though if it is poorly ventilated short bursts may exacerbate problems with the solder.


You just disagreed, then agreed, then disagreed with me :crazy:

Define "very hot" computers will reach "very hot" temps (peak) within a short peroid of time operating at high load, much sooner than "2-3" hours...

Operating at such tempature for 2-3hours then cooling the system down to room tempature is surely exactly what causes the issue and wants to be minized eg by not just randomly letting the system cool down before you heat it right back up again....
 
I play GT5 for insanely long periods of time on my old launch PS3. (Now upgraded to 320 gigs) :D and I do not fear the YLOD! Bring it on!

...although I got one before during that little update fiasco a couple of years back. :lol:
 
Define "very hot" computers will reach "very hot" temps (peak) within a short peroid of time operating at high load, much sooner than "2-3" hours...
"Very hot" meaning the internal cooling system isn't adequately cooling the system for whatever reason.

Operating at such tempature for 2-3hours then cooling the system down to room tempature is surely exactly what causes the issue and wants to be minized eg by not just randomly letting the system cool down before you heat it right back up again....
If your PS3 is suffering from overheating problems for whatever reason, it is better to only use it for short periods of time until you can ascertain and fix the problem.
YLoD is caused by the PS3 exceeding the normal "safe" operating temperatures so much that the motherboard physically warps, and then cooling down the system rapidly. It isn't caused simply by power cycling the system, because it never gets hot enough to cause the motherboard to expand/warp in the first place.
 
What are you basing this on is this fact or theory? I have never heard of heat warping a motherboard. If this was the case sony could lower the max safe temp for the system to operate at via a firmware update before shutting the system off thus preventing the damage you suggest.
 
The first time my father bought us PS1 (2001) he made us a timetable for my brother and I were we can only play from 7-12pm and 1.30-5pm....and we can't play at night, giving the PS1 a very LONG cooling time....and I did this with my fat PS2 (2003) and it's still going on until now (of course I'm not playing my PS2 anymore)....and I can only play during school holidays...

will this method work to avoid my PS3 being YLOD?

EDIT: mine is the 160GB slim
 
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My 60 YLOD last month. Sony fixed for $135 with NE tax. They offered a new slim to me for 99 as long as my 60 had the 60gb drive in it. My kids still play ps2 games so had them fix it.
 
I think I got a semi-YLOD not to long ago playing bad co 2. i remember the 3 beeps but dont really remember the yellow light.

is it possible to keep playing if you get a YLOD? because i have been playing since that episode and bought gt5 and works fine.

except it prompted me that the HDD needed to be rebuilt and i got one of those prompts that sony wanted to know what the problem was and requested that the bug be sent to them. it gave me a choice 'accept or decline' so i accepted. how it affected the gt5 is that it tells me that i dont have enough space to download those tracks for faster loading.

is that still considered a YLOD? another poster told me that its just corrupted data. any thoughts?
 
If you got a YLoD, it wouldn't run anymore.

What are you basing this on is this fact or theory?
Fact. Or, rather, it is fact for one of the reasons. It is basically the same thing that caused most RRoD issues on earlier 360s, only not nearly as common/severe. Motherboard expands/warp a little bit. Solder doesn't expand with it, and cracks.

The main difference is that the YLoD has a wider variety of things that can cause it. It isn't necessarily an overheating problem, as it also pops up during hard drive failures and power supply issues (among other things).

I have never heard of heat warping a motherboard.
I really don't know what to say to that, to be honest.

If this was the case sony could lower the max safe temp for the system to operate at via a firmware update before shutting the system off thus preventing the damage you suggest.
They already have something like that. Then again, so did the 360...
 
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If you backup your data to an external hdd, send your ps3 in for repairs and they format it, would you be able to do a restore? If you swop your hdd when sending it for repairs, then get it back and put the original back in, is it all back to business and fine? And is it possible to backup data onto an internal pc hdd with FAT32? I ask these questions because I fear my 80gigs will get the YLOD.
 
I've got no YLOD so far, but my HDMI out went black twice already while playing GT5. I had to switch to component and the second day HDMI worked again. Is that bad? Meh even if my PS3 dies I still would probably get another one(maybe used) just cause GT5 is so fun to play. Too bad for you guys, I thought Xbox sucks because of RROD, but now even PS3 does so(I am referring to hardware).
 
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