This is annoying me for real... i need an answer please

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ceolix
  • 62 comments
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hsv
That'll make it horrible to drive. All the OP needs is to learn how to handle the car properly.
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Meh, if I'm using a high-ish powered car, I usually turn down the LSD settings to encourage mid corner stability, but tweak my suspension towards oversteer to compensate for the understeer. Never driven the 8C, but works for me on most cars :) wouldn't hurt to give it a try anyway, he's only losing 7500 if it doesn't work
 
Anomaly
Not at all. It's actually valid medical & mechanical terminology.
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Yes, that's true. I guess I just read it out of context. Come to think of it, I really don't know why I classed it as a swear. My mistake. :banghead: :D
 
After 10 races there, i didn't feel my driving style changed, i see i keep spinning
on he same pich of grass
Guys, I'm not saying I'm going like 300km/h on a curb
I'm just trying to adapt the speed of the other players to my 8c
still i can't control the speed, the bouncing of the car, like they do.
I did many changes to my tune but i keep doing the same mistake
 
Ceolix
Guys, I'm not saying I'm going like 300km/h on a curb
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It was never about your entry speed. If it was about your entry speed, you'd find yourself in a wall, not spinning.
It's about how you take the corner, mostly concerning the throttle control that is ABSOLUTELY necessary to drive on the Nurburgring. Try reducing the level of throttle you use while you go over the curb. If you're not using any throttle, then you're oversteering because of all the weight shifting to the front (remedy by using a minimal amount of throttle). Or avoid it altogether if that's easier and/or faster for you. Spend some time getting to know how your car behaves-- constant changes to your tune don't help very much if you can never get in the groove with them.
 
Ceolix
After 10 races there, i didn't feel my driving style changed, i see i keep spinning
on he same pich of grass
Guys, I'm not saying I'm going like 300km/h on a curb
I'm just trying to adapt the speed of the other players to my 8c
still i can't control the speed, the bouncing of the car, like they do.
I did many changes to my tune but i keep doing the same mistake
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As Not_A_Guest said throttle control, is the key here.
 
Ceolix
After 10 races there, i didn't feel my driving style changed, i see i keep spinning
on he same pich of grass
Guys, I'm not saying I'm going like 300km/h on a curb
I'm just trying to adapt the speed of the other players to my 8c
still i can't control the speed, the bouncing of the car, like they do.
I did many changes to my tune but i keep doing the same mistake
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If you thrash the car into the corner and hit the gas on the exit while you're still on the grass, you're probably going to spin no matter what car you have.
 
After reading this threaed I went and bought myself an Alfa Romeo 8C Competizione '08 to see what all the fuss was about. I left everything 100% stock and went onto Nurburgring. I don't know about the OP, but I'd consider my GT6 driving skills probably average. If you follow the Seasonal Events threads you'd see what I mean based on my times. Anyway, I'm assuming the OP is probably around my skill level.

The first two laps were definitely a little squirrely. This car has some giddy-up in her. Throttle control is certainly a concern with this car. Some cars you can get away with a heavy foot around the turns and when you hit some grass. On the 3rd lap I was intentionally driving onto sections of gas and I noticed if the grass was in a straight away section of track I woud be all right as long as I let off the gas. This clearly isn't a car that likes being on the grass at all. Very few cars do at such speeds.

After a few laps I thought to myself "This is a rather strange car! It's a FR layout yet it sort of drives more like a MR layout!!" I can't think of another front engine car in this game (that I have driven) that feels like a MR layout on the track. I ended up applying a portion of Praiano's tune for the Alfa Romeo 8C - I just did the LSD and Suspension settings. The car drove much nicer after that.

Good luck with this car @Ceolix ... I know what it's like to have a car(s) you really want to drive in GT6 but they just don't behave the way you want. I'm a huge Lamborghini fan. I've lusted after all models since I was probably 5 years old and the Countach was everyone's dream car. Unfortunately, the Aventador and Murcielago's don't exactly drive like a dream without a lot of tweaking and a lot of practice! I still have a lot of trouble with them, but I have no probem with other similarly powered MR cars that I don't care nearly as much about. Go figure... :(
 
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ALB123
After reading this threaed I went and bought myself an Alfa Romeo 8C Competizione '08 to see what all the fuss was about. I left everything 100% stock and went onto Nurburgring. I don't know about the OP, but I'd consider my GT6 driving skills probably average. If you follow the Seasonal Events threads you'd see what I mean based on my times. Anyway, I'm assuming the OP is probably around my skill level.

The first two laps were definitely a little squirrely. This car has some giddy-up in her. Throttle control is certainly a concern with this car. Some cars you can get away with a heavy foot around the turns and when you hit some grass. On the 3rd lap I was intentionally driving onto sections of gas and I noticed if the grass was in a straight away section of track I woud be all right as long as I let off the gas. This clearly isn't a car that likes being on the grass at all. Very few cars do at such speeds.

After a few laps I thought to myself "This is a rather strange car! It's a FR layout yet it sort of drives more like a MR layout!!" I can't think of another front engine car in this game (that I have driven) that feels like a MR layout on the track. I ended up applying a portion of Praiano's tune for the Alfa Romeo 8C - I just did the LSD and Suspension settings. The car drove much nicer after that.

Good luck with this car @Ceolix ... I know what it's like to have a car(s) you really want to drive in GT6 but they just don't behave the way you want. I'm a huge Lamborghini fan. I've lusted after all models since I was probably 5 years old and the Countach was everyone's dream car. Unfortunately, the Aventador and Murcialago's don't exactly drive like a dream without a lot of tweaking and a lot of practice! I still have a lot of trouble with them, but I have no probem with other similarly powered MR cars that I don't care nearly as much about. Go figure... :(
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Finally someone understood my problem!!
Is it a strange car isn't it?
i can't even to stay up with m3 speeds
or shelbies or NSX, well i don't think
this car was made for nurb after all.
Thanks for the tips everyone
I think ill just buy other car :)

about the driving skill
i like difficult cars to drive
it gives me a feel i'll improve my driving skill
 
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So you'll buy another car... Because you like the challenge...
 
Well I'm not surprised that you couldn't keep up with M3s and NSX's or even Shelbys, because those are three of the most underrated cars in the game :lol: (when referring to the PP system). If you compared them to Pokemon, the NSX-R would be like Blaziken (uber) and the M3 CSL would be like Wobuffet :lol:
 
Easy answer let off the throttle ?The diff will send all the power to one wheel resulting in ... yup you guessed it ... spinning , possibly got your diff way to high ?
 
Ceolix
After 10 races there, i didn't feel my driving style changed, i see i keep spinning
on he same pich of grass
Guys, I'm not saying I'm going like 300km/h on a curb
I'm just trying to adapt the speed of the other players to my 8c
still i can't control the speed, the bouncing of the car, like they do.
I did many changes to my tune but i keep doing the same mistake
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Most likely those racers have adjusted their suspension to fit their driving style. If your vehicle is nearly stock, most races you will compete in will have bad results on online races (specially if you are trying to ride to their speed). I can suggest a member of this site who specializes in suspension tuning. Send me a convo. If you want.
 
SuzukaStar
Some cars require a more delicate touch, but all cars can ALWAYS avoid going off the track. You just need to slow down and aim for the apex.

Watch my bone-stock 8C go around Suzuka as quickly as I could. Never once hit any grass.

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Ceolix
Ok, i can't even turn my 8c in this curve

nurburgring-karrusel_0.jpg



I go like 50 km/h
i turn a little and i oversteer
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I can relate. But if you do the usual corner entry speed and hit a gear higher before turn in it will help. or you can take the outer rim.
 
I notice in one of your entries here you mention 'bouncing'.
If my suspension is bouncing on the Nordschleife I turn up the dampers to a higher number and it definitely helps me. You have to be careful with the differences between compression and extension, as you can lose contact with the road if the extension setting is too low, but it can throw you upwards if it is too high
 
Cosmik Debris
I notice in one of your entries here you mention 'bouncing'.
If my suspension is bouncing on the Nordschleife I turn up the dampers to a higher number and it definitely helps me. You have to be careful with the differences between compression and extension, as you can lose contact with the road if the extension setting is too low, but it can throw you upwards if it is too high
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Wrong way round with the extension - the lower the setting, the faster it pushes back, the higher the setting, the slower it extends
 
Funny thing is, the long nurburgring track is the first track I first played on GT5 with no assist except ABS-1, I made to the finish line without crashing but in like 11.30 mins with the Lexus ISF which is similar to the car I drive in real life (Lexus IS350). Then i'm totally hooked into this game because of the realism the the immersion of the thrill lol.

I think I learn so damn much by driving on this track than the license tests. I then receive silver or gold in the career modes with ease on first try with ease.

hsv
I still remember my first 'Ring experience on GT4; the first race I ever did on GT, in fact. Couldn't get it round a single corner. :lol:

7 years later, and thousands of laps later, I can make them. I wouldn't have thought that all those years ago.
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DolHaus
Wrong way round with the extension - the lower the setting, the faster it pushes back, the higher the setting, the slower it extends
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Are you serious? I had no idea! So with a stock suspension everything is set to 1 and that means the dampers extend quickly? When we install the customizable suspension and increase the number to 10, that is actually slowing down the extension? I have to admit I fail to see the logic behind that. If a higher number means a stiffer damper on compression, wouldn't that higher number on extension mean it's pushing back with the same force? I'm not saying you're wrong. I'm saying PD should probably have thought of that... or am I missing something?
 
ALB123
Are you serious? I had no idea! So with a stock suspension everything is set to 1 and that means the dampers extend quickly? When we install the customizable suspension and increase the number to 10, that is actually slowing down the extension? I have to admit I fail to see the logic behind that. If a higher number means a stiffer damper on compression, wouldn't that higher number on extension mean it's pushing back with the same force? I'm not saying you're wrong. I'm saying PD should probably have thought of that... or am I missing something?
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The dampers control how fast the springs compress/extend, the higher the number the slower the spring is allowed to react. The amount of force exerted by the spring never changes, only the speed of the reaction is altered by playing with the dampers.
A dampers job is to control the compression/extension via resistance, the higher the number the more resistance to change in each particular direction (high comp = slow to compress / high ext. = slow to extend). It makes sense if you think about it, theres nothing wrong with PDs logic in this case
 
DolHaus
The dampers control how fast the springs compress/extend, the higher the number the slower the spring is allowed to react. The amount of force exerted by the spring never changes, only the speed of the reaction is altered by playing with the dampers.
A dampers job is to control the compression/extension via resistance, the higher the number the more resistance to change in each particular direction (high comp = slow to compress / high ext. = slow to extend). It makes sense if you think about it, theres nothing wrong with PDs logic in this case
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That's what I'm saying. It will bounce the car less, I just didn't explain it very well. But if the extension is too slow, the springs won't push back to the track quick enough. That's how I see it :confused:
 
Cosmik Debris
That's what I'm saying. It will bounce the car less, I just didn't explain it very well. But if the extension is too slow, the springs won't push back to the track quick enough. That's how I see it :confused:
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The dampers are generally used to control weight shift rather than keeping the car attached to the road, gravity does most of that for you.
Lower damper figures allow the springs to act naturally and as fast as the force exerted on them dictates, this allows for faster weight shift and more adaptability to road conditions but can lead to instability at speed.
The higher the damper settings are set, the more resistive they are to change and the slower they will react, this allows for more stability at speed and can stop the car leaning over under high load but the suspension will become stiff and unresponsive which can lead to the car skipping across bumps in the surface and losing grip.

An example of how dampers control weight shift can be found most commonly under hard braking and encountering brake lift off oversteer (BLOR). When you release the brakes you find the rear of the car is snapping round and losing grip, this is as a result of poorly managed weight transfer that can be fixed using dampers.
When you hit the brakes the weight is transferred forwards onto the front wheels, this means that the front springs are in the compression phase and the rear springs are in the extension phase (nose goes down, tail lifts up). As soon as you release the brakes that weight has to redistribute itself around the car (tail squats, nose lifts) and the job of the dampers is to make sure this is done smoothly to avoid overloading the tyres and breaking traction. To manage the weight transfer better and avoid (BLOR) I would start to increase the front extension value so that it happened more slowly and with less violence, I could also try raising the rear compression value as well and by balancing the two the problem would be solved.

This basic principal can be applied to any aspect of driving whether it be accelerating, braking, turning or a combination of all three, it all comes down to how the compression and extension are managing the weight transfer in conjunction with the springs. 👍
 
Try putting your car in the highest possible gear and driving the whole track that way.
 
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