Thrustmaster T-GT Wheel Thread

[Twstcrv]

I agree about running low settings. I was running 1/3-5 (car dependant) on my T500 before the patch and am running 2/3-5 on the T-GT post patch.

Also, a good point was raised about the transducer in another thread that I hadn't thought of, main reason being that I'm already set up for tactile. The vibration could be an issue if you have a combination of hard flooring and no rubber feet on your rig, especially in a unit/flat. Even though the T-GT's transducer is far less powerful than my Buttkicker I can see how it could become offensive to those around unless properly insulated.

Yep. You nailed it.

 

[PocketZeven]

I agree about running low settings. I was running 1/3-5 (car dependant) on my T500 before the patch and am running 2/3-5 on the T-GT post patch.

Also, a good point was raised about the transducer in another thread that I hadn't thought of, main reason being that I'm already set up for tactile. The vibration could be an issue if you have a combination of hard flooring and no rubber feet on your rig, especially in a unit/flat. Even though the T-GT's transducer is far less powerful than my Buttkicker I can see how it could become offensive to those around unless properly insulated.

Having a simracing mat or yoga mat will solve this? I have hard flooring and the transducer isn’t powerful enough to cause offensive sounds. Butt some of those bittkickers can really shake stuff around and be quite loud without insulation. Whenever I move to a larger house I’m going to put in carpeting in my simracing/gaming space to help with soundproofing.

 

[FPV MIC]

Having a simracing mat or yoga mat will solve this? I have hard flooring and the transducer isn’t powerful enough to cause offensive sounds. Butt some of those bittkickers can really shake stuff around and be quite loud without insulation. Whenever I move to a larger house I’m going to put in carpeting in my simracing/gaming space to help with soundproofing.

Agree, I think a mat would probably be enough (just) for the T-GT, but with adding a Buttkicker a rig would definitely need to be far better insulated. I am lucky to have enough space that my rig is in a dedicated gaming/computer room with carpeted wooden floors. I added the rubber insulators that come supplied with the Buttkicker to my rig and that's totally eliminated any travel of the vibration to the rest of the house. I also have my sound system volume turned up enough that the noise of the shaker is almost completely drowned out by the sub woofer that's under my seat.

As long as my wife can watch her favourite programs in the lounge without being disturbed, all is good.

edit just to add: It's not all about sound with transducers, it's also the harmonics of the vibration that build up and travel.

 

[ghost30]

If someone has spent more hours of their life playing video games than driving real cars then most of what you are saying makes perfect sense when it comes to manipulating controls. But then you go back to the whole immersion thing and if immersion is that important, a load cell is better at that too bc it works based on pressure like a real car.

I disagree. A quick driver is a quick driver no matter what. Fundamentals matter more. I can personally distinguish the difference between a real sports car (driven many), karting, and video game driving sims. Personally, brake pedal differences are not significant enough to hinder my speed in a driving sim or real life. It's all a matter of adapting your driving style.

I don't left foot brake in real sports cars, but I do left foot brake in video game sims. When, or if I decide to get load cell pedals, perhaps I'll shave off a few tenths? Maybe more confidence in braking? And I'm sure it feels better. That's great. Meanwhile, I've adapted to my set up.

 

[Jump_Ace]

Man some of you guys are reaching so hard, for someone so happy you are giving a lot of post-purchase justification chat.

I think both the the CSL bases look much better than the T-GT as does the TS-XW/TS-PC, that bulbous round front on the T-GT looks awful like the oversized dials in the new minis, see how opinions work .

Your other point is plain stupid, not only has the CSL line been out much longer and had absolutely no overheating issues it's Thrustmasters T300 line which is notorious for overheating and wheel fade!

I personally don't like the plastic quick release on the CSL line but it's very easy to swap to a higher quality true metal quick release with a clubsport rim completely removing any flex; you are stuck with that cheap plastic screw system on every Thrustmaster base but I'd put more faith in it than the stock CSL one.

They both make great bases but even compared amongst other Thrustmaster wheels on the same performance levels this is majorly overpriced because of GT branding/features and there is no getting around that.

Anyway I think I'm going to leave you guys be as objective discussion went out the window long ago, I'm off to pine after a DD wheel .

I'm holding out hope that one day Fanatec will make a PS4 compatible DD wheel.


Jerome

 

[FPV MIC]

I dissagree. A quick driver is a quick driver no matter what. Fundamentals matter more. I can personally distinguish the difference between a real sports car (driven many), karting, and video game driving sims. Personally, brake pedal differences are not significant enough to hinder my speed in a driving sim or real life. It's all a matter of adapting your driving style.

I don't left foot brake in real sports cars, but I do left foot brake in video game sims. When, or if I decide to get load cell pedals, perhaps I'll shave off a few tenths? Maybe more confidence in braking? And I'm sure it feels better. That's great. Meanwhile, I've adapted to my set up.

^^This^^👍

I've mentioned this several times in this thread. I've been sim racing for a long time now, but real world driving a lot longer. In this time I've had to make many adaptations from DS3/DS4, different wheel/pedal combo's, left foot braking, to now left foot everything (lost my right leg in an accident). In this time my speed in relation to my friends has not changed by more than .5 of a second. One lesson I've learnt is that we are a very adaptable species, and due to this knowledge, I know that simply adding a load cell is not going to magically make me any more than a bees dick quicker.

 

[PocketZeven]

Agree, I think a mat would probably be enough (just) for the T-GT, but with adding a Buttkicker a rig would definitely need to be far better insulated. I am lucky to have enough space that my rig is in a dedicated gaming/computer room with carpeted wooden floors. I added the rubber insulators that come supplied with the Buttkicker to my rig and that's totally eliminated any travel of the vibration to the rest of the house. I also have my sound system volume turned up enough that the noise of the shaker is almost completely drowned out by the sub woofer that's under my seat.

As long as my wife can watch her favourite programs in the lounge without being disturbed, all is good.

edit just to add: It's not all about sound with transducers, it's also the harmonics of the vibration that build up and travel.

You are using a PC setup I guess? Really would like a dedicated setup someday. Space is an issue with 2 small children. Hopefully I can move to a larger home in a few years. Then finally get a console/pc with triple screen/vr setup and 4dof motion system.

 

[ghost30]

^^This^^👍

I've mentioned this several times in this thread. I've been sim racing for a long time now, but real world driving a lot longer. In this time I've had to make many adaptations from DS3/DS4, different wheel/pedal combo's, left foot braking, to now left foot everything (lost my right leg in an accident). In this time my speed in relation to my friends has not changed by more than .5 of a second. One lesson I've learnt is that we are a very adaptable species, and due to this knowledge, I know that simply adding a load cell is not going to magically make me any more than a bees dick quicker.

Cheers, you're amazing bro.

 

[F Inferno]

I'm sorry but using low FFB to go faster is just weak, I always go with whatever the car should have and why I'm switching to direct drive for more force. As far as I'm concerned lowering FFB strength to make it easier and less tiring to drive is no different to using assists because the drivers of those cars in real life can't do it!

 

[FPV MIC]

You are using a PC setup I guess? Really would like a dedicated setup someday. Space is an issue with 2 small children. Hopefully I can move to a larger home in a few years. Then finally get a console/pc with triple screen/vr setup and 4dof motion system.

I only have my PS3 and PS4 hooked up atm. I would use my PC as well but a lot of the games I don't already have on PS4 require Windows 10, and I don't want to downgrade to it.

Good luck with your future plans, that would be one sweet set up.👍

Did I mention that I hate W 10.

Cheers, you're amazing bro.

Nah man, not amazing, I just do what ya gotta do. I've seen so many people worse off than myself in hospitals and rehab that I consider myself lucky but cheers for the thought.👍

I'm sorry but using low FFB to go faster is just weak, I always go with whatever the car should have and why I'm switching to direct drive for more force. As far as I'm concerned lowering FFB strength to make it easier and less tiring to drive is no different to using assists because the drivers of those cars in real life can't do it!

You do realise a lot of race cars run power steering and assists and nearly every road car does also, so I guess you'll be running low FFB a lot then.

 

[F Inferno]

I only have my PS3 and PS4 hooked up atm. I would use my PC as well but a lot of the games I don't already have on PS4 require Windows 10, and I don't want to downgrade to it.

Good luck with your future plans, that would be one sweet set up.👍

Did I mention that I hate W 10.
Nah man, not amazing, I just do what ya gotta do. I've seen so many people worse off than myself in hospitals and rehab that I consider myself lucky but cheers for the thought.👍
You do realise a lot of race cars run power steering and assists and nearly every road car does also, so I guess you'll be running low FFB a lot then.

I do yes but a lot of older cars don't and I want to feel the difference in how hard it is to drive a modern supercar or F1 car vs. one from 30 years ago not have them feel identical in effort required.

 

[Twstcrv]

I disagree. A quick driver is a quick driver no matter what. Fundamentals matter more. I can personally distinguish the difference between a real sports car (driven many), karting, and video game driving sims. Personally, brake pedal differences are not significant enough to hinder my speed in a driving sim or real life. It's all a matter of adapting your driving style.

I don't left foot brake in real sports cars, but I do left foot brake in video game sims. When, or if I decide to get load cell pedals, perhaps I'll shave off a few tenths? Maybe more confidence in braking? And I'm sure it feels better. That's great. Meanwhile, I've adapted to my set up.

Have at it. Its like whack a mole w you guys. You say you want 3 kinds of vibration for immersion but then you advocate a pot. brake with your left foot. You say a load cell is not necessary then admit youll prob be getting one anyway. Thrustmaster is laughing all the way to the bank while contemplating why they should even bother with a load cell when there are so many who make excuses to pay more for NOT having one!

 

[ghost30]

Have at it. Its like whack a mole w you guys. You say you want 3 kinds of vibration for immersion but then you advocate a pot. brake with your left foot. You say a load cell is not necessary then admit youll prob be getting one anyway. Thrustmaster is laughing all the way to the bank while contemplating whether they should even bother with a load cell when there are so many who make excuses to pay more for NOT having one!

To each his own. No worries. I'm just giving you my opinion based off of my experiences. I've been pretty direct... I've never advocated using a load cell. Might want to re-read that. But I have no problem with the prospect of using them someday either.

 

[Twstcrv]

I'm sorry but using low FFB to go faster is just weak, I always go with whatever the car should have and why I'm switching to direct drive for more force. As far as I'm concerned lowering FFB strength to make it easier and less tiring to drive is no different to using assists because the drivers of those cars in real life can't do it!

I think you have a point that if the forces are accurate you are getting the most out of the game, but saying turning it down is weak is like saying not wearing a fireproof suit, helmet, and turning up your thermostat to 95 degrees is also weak.

 

[Twstcrv]

To each his own. No worries. I'm just giving you my opinion based off of my experiences. I've been pretty direct... I've never advocated using a load cell. Might want to re-read that. But I have no problem with the prospect of using them someday either.

You may want to reread that.. i said you advocated a pot brake, not a load cell, that was my point.

 

[ghost30]

You may want to reread that.. i said you advocated a pot brake, not a load cell, that was my point.

Oh ok. Actually, I wasn't advocating anything. My whole point was that a load cell is not necessary to be quick. However, I understand the argument for including them with the T-GT package.

 

[PocketZeven]

Oh ok. Actually, I wasn't advocating anything. My whole point was that a load cell is not necessary to be quick. However, I understand the argument for including them with the T-GT package.

You have to have a bit of nuance with his posts. Twsrcrv bought a T-GT at full price and found out afterwards that you can also buy a CSL with loadcell for a cheaper price and felt ripped off. He is just venting. It is history repeating itself when the G29 first came out. People where shouting rip-off and it was bashing Logitech all over the internet, because it was 399 with the same geardrivetech and same pedals, but no shifter included as the G27 but just with ps4 support. I bought the G29 when it was 299 and never had regrets. Another dude in another forum was pissed after buying it because he could have the belt drive (t300) for the same price.

I suspect in a few years people will be angry about belt drives being a ripoff, because DD is the way to go. (When prices go down)

I’m sure people are also angry for buying GT sport full price and finding out a few weeks later it’s priced as low as €20 because of Black Friday. I try to never regret a purchase, by doing my research. When the money is spent its best not to look back all you’ll be frustrated all the time.

 

[ghost30]

You have to have a bit of nuance with his posts. Twsrcrv bought a T-GT at full price and found out afterwards that you can also buy a CSL with loadcell for a cheaper price and felt ripped off. He is just venting. It is history repeating itself when the G29 first came out. People where shouting rip-off and it was bashing Logitech all over the internet, because it was 399 with the same geardrivetech and same pedals, but no shifter included as the G27 but just with ps4 support. I bought the G29 when it was 299 and never had regrets. Another dude in another forum was pissed after buying it because he could have the belt drive (t300) for the same price.

I suspect in a few years people will be angry about belt drives being a ripoff, because DD is the way to go. (When prices go down)

I’m sure people are also angry for buying GT sport full price and finding out a few weeks later it’s priced as low as €20 because of Black Friday. I try to never regret a purchase, by doing my research. When the money is spent its best not to look back all you’ll be frustrated all the time.

I see.

 

[Twstcrv]

He makes it sound like its only me. Lol. When you have almost every reviewer of it saying its overpriced , INCLUDING the one that is supposed to be tm biased, and they are being nice! This is nothing like two products offering a minor difference for the same price as stated above or a 20% discount on a video game. This is literally paying hundreds more and getting more than a few features and level of quality less. I wouldn’t be saying these things if I hadnt held them both in my hands, seen them both with my own eyes, and yes, drove them both. You guys are in post purchase denial like I was before I sent it back. And if there are enough like you, good luck w thrustmaster producing a load cell any time soon. Why should they when you guys are so staunchly justifying paying so much more for not getting while also saying things like it really makes no difference anyway?

You have to have a bit of nuance with his posts. Twsrcrv bought a T-GT at full price and found out afterwards that you can also buy a CSL with loadcell for a cheaper price and felt ripped off. He is just venting. It is history repeating itself when the G29 first came out. People where shouting rip-off and it was bashing Logitech all over the internet, because it was 399 with the same geardrivetech and same pedals, but no shifter included as the G27 but just with ps4 support. I bought the G29 when it was 299 and never had regrets. Another dude in another forum was pissed after buying it because he could have the belt drive (t300) for the same price.

I suspect in a few years people will be angry about belt drives being a ripoff, because DD is the way to go. (When prices go down)

I’m sure people are also angry for buying GT sport full price and finding out a few weeks later it’s priced as low as €20 because of Black Friday. I try to never regret a purchase, by doing my research. When the money is spent its best not to look back all you’ll be frustrated all the time.

 

[Twstcrv]

Man some of you guys are reaching so hard, for someone so happy you are giving a lot of post-purchase justification chat.

I think both the the CSL bases look much better than the T-GT as does the TS-XW/TS-PC, that bulbous round front on the T-GT looks awful like the oversized dials in the new minis, see how opinions work .

Your other point is plain stupid, not only has the CSL line been out much longer and had absolutely no overheating issues it's Thrustmasters T300 line which is notorious for overheating and wheel fade!

I personally don't like the plastic quick release on the CSL line but it's very easy to swap to a higher quality true metal quick release with a clubsport rim completely removing any flex; you are stuck with that cheap plastic screw system on every Thrustmaster base but I'd put more faith in it than the stock CSL one.

They both make great bases but even compared amongst other Thrustmaster wheels on the same performance levels this is majorly overpriced because of GT branding/features and there is no getting around that.

Anyway I think I'm going to leave you guys be as objective discussion went out the window long ago, I'm off to pine after a DD wheel=QUOTE]


I.e. you actually ARE getting ripped off.

You have to have a bit of nuance with his posts. Twsrcrv bought a T-GT at full price and found out afterwards that you can also buy a CSL with loadcell for a cheaper price and felt ripped off. He is just venting. It is history repeating itself when the G29 first came out. People where shouting rip-off and it was bashing Logitech all over the internet, because it was 399 with the same geardrivetech and same pedals, but no shifter included as the G27 but just with ps4 support. I bought the G29 when it was 299 and never had regrets. Another dude in another forum was pissed after buying it because he could have the belt drive (t300) for the same price.

I suspect in a few years people will be angry about belt drives being a ripoff, because DD is the way to go. (When prices go down)

I’m sure people are also angry for buying GT sport full price and finding out a few weeks later it’s priced as low as €20 because of Black Friday. I try to never regret a purchase, by doing my research. When the money is spent its best not to look back all you’ll be frustrated all the time.

Ie. You actually are getting ripped off..its all around you and you just refuse to see it.

 

[PocketZeven]

Ie. You actually are getting ripped off..its all around you and you just refuse to see it.

Yes we are getting ripped off. Overpayed for my apartment too. But it was my choice! Just leave it as it is. I am stupid to buy thrustmaster. As I was stupid to buy an overpriced redesigned G27. I never denied it!

Please... please leave it alone?

 

[PocketZeven]

I'm sorry but using low FFB to go faster is just weak, I always go with whatever the car should have and why I'm switching to direct drive for more force. As far as I'm concerned lowering FFB strength to make it easier and less tiring to drive is no different to using assists because the drivers of those cars in real life can't do it!

It’s pretty relative because every wheel has its base strength. Without driving the real thing it’s hard to tell what the FFB should be in real life. Would be cool if there was a resource that translates real life torque to each wheel.

I tried driving the wheel with max FFB and it is trying to rip off my fingers and it’s only 6nm! Really tiring! How do you drive multiple laps that way? Can’t imagine this with a 40nm DD wheel! No wonder those wheels come with an emergency stop button!

 

[F Inferno]

I think you have a point that if the forces are accurate you are getting the most out of the game, but saying turning it down is weak is like saying not wearing a fireproof suit, helmet, and turning up your thermostat to 95 degrees is also weak.

What I mean by that is actively turning down FFB to make a car easier to drive is no different to using assists so you don't have to shift gears for example.

Sim racers spend all their time bickering about which one is the best and then adjust FFB to feel how they like rather than it being realistic, I feel like I'm the only one who sees the irony in all of it.

It’s pretty relative because every wheel has its base strength. Without driving the real thing it’s hard to tell what the FFB should be in real life. Would be cool if there was a resource that translates real life torque to each wheel.

I tried driving the wheel with max FFB and it is trying to rip off my fingers and it’s only 6nm! Really tiring! How do you drive multiple laps that way? Can’t imagine this with a 40nm DD wheel! No wonder those wheels come with an emergency stop button!

I imagine you drive in fear that if you mess up you're going to break your arms!

Honestly I've had my CSW V2 clipping above it's max 7nm and didn't think it was that powerful, sure sudden jolts throw you out because it's impossible to react that fast but sustained force I can relatively easily overpower in a corner. Though obviously if it took 7nm to turn constantly it wouldn't be much fun like the wheel weight option in F1 2016 starting at 100% was just crazy!

 

[Twstcrv]

Yes we are getting ripped off. Overpayed for my apartment too. But it was my choice! Just leave it as it is. I am stupid to buy thrustmaster. As I was stupid to buy an overpriced redesigned G27. I never denied it!

Please... please leave it alone?

Please stop trying to make it about me. Its about thrustmaster, not me.

 

[PocketZeven]

What I mean by that is actively turning down FFB to make a car easier to drive is no different to using assists so you don't have to shift gears for example.

Sim racers spend all their time bickering about which one is the best and then adjust FFB to feel how they like rather than it being realistic, I feel like I'm the only one who sees the irony in all of it.

I imagine you drive in fear that if you mess up you're going to break your arms!

Honestly I've had my CSW V2 clipping above it's max 7nm and didn't think it was that powerful, sure sudden jolts throw you out because it's impossible to react that fast but sustained force I can relatively easily overpower in a corner. Though obviously if it took 7nm to turn constantly it wouldn't be much fun like the wheel weight option in F1 2016 starting at 100% was just crazy!

I agree with the irony. The games should have set profiles for each car and wheel tans/type to reflect its real life counterpart. But somehow simracers love 100+ settings??? That’s why I like GT sport polyphony says the ffb should feel like this, but we give you 2 settings to personalize it modestly.

Btw I play on console and you don’t have the feature to show if your wheel is clipping. How do you “feel” when the wheel is clipping?

 

[Twstcrv]

What I mean by that is actively turning down FFB to make a car easier to drive is no different to using assists so you don't have to shift gears for example.

Sim racers spend all their time bickering about which one is the best and then adjust FFB to feel how they like rather than it being realistic, I feel like I'm the only one who sees the irony in all of it.

I imagine you drive in fear that if you mess up you're going to break your arms!

Honestly I've had my CSW V2 clipping above it's max 7nm and didn't think it was that powerful, sure sudden jolts throw you out because it's impossible to react that fast but sustained force I can relatively easily overpower in a corner. Though obviously if it took 7nm to turn constantly it wouldn't be much fun like the wheel weight option in F1 2016 starting at 100% was just crazy!

I disagree completely. Using or not using stability control, gears, abs, tc, etc not only changes the performance of the car, but requires more skill. Turning up ffb only requires strength, doesn’t make you faster or slower and only determines how tired you want to be at the end. If you like to challenge yourself that way thats great, but don’t say its weak or cowardly if others dont. A real driver would laugh at that as you sit in your quiet comfy air conditioned room eating cheetos, drinking root beer and working your arms! Now having said that, if I find out a game DOES give you boost for higher ffb, I will definitely consider it! And I may do a race now and then for fun that way, but mostly I want to win more than I want to work out.

 

[Twstcrv]

What I mean by that is actively turning down FFB to make a car easier to drive is no different to using assists so you don't have to shift gears for example.

Sim racers spend all their time bickering about which one is the best and then adjust FFB to feel how they like rather than it being realistic, I feel like I'm the only one who sees the irony in all of it.

I imagine you drive in fear that if you mess up you're going to break your arms!

Honestly I've had my CSW V2 clipping above it's max 7nm and didn't think it was that powerful, sure sudden jolts throw you out because it's impossible to react that fast but sustained force I can relatively easily overpower in a corner. Though obviously if it took 7nm to turn constantly it wouldn't be much fun like the wheel weight option in F1 2016 starting at 100% was just crazy!

I have a 135i w the m sport package and doesnt require near the force of pcars2 1m or z4 w ffb set to “normal”. So I dont have alot of faith that these developers arent exaggerating these wheel forces just a little. Consider how bad, for example gtsport engine sounds still are after all these years of development! When I heard assetto corsa’s ferrari for the first time I realized just how bad gt sound is! I still love the game because its never been a priority, just sayin.

 

[Matty28]

What I mean by that is actively turning down FFB to make a car easier to drive is no different to using assists so you don't have to shift gears for example.

Sim racers spend all their time bickering about which one is the best and then adjust FFB to feel how they like rather than it being realistic, I feel like I'm the only one who sees the irony in all of it.

If I have the T-GT on 100% it's like 4 times heavier than my real car to steer which seems a bit unrealistic to me. Assists cut corners, feedback is supposed to give you information you need. The way I see it is if my wheel movements look like real drivers' and I can drive very well then I'm probably closer than if I can't get round a track without crashing and/or make unnatural wheel movements.

Fingers are much better adapted for fine motor skills than legs and feet thats why controller racing makes more sense w a pot and pedal makes more sense w lc. .

They are but then you have 10x the travel with a pedal compared to a trigger so that balances it out for me.

Does anyone know if you can switch off the transducer while playing GT Sport? If it makes a loud vibration sound it won't be great for 2AM sessions

 

[Twstcrv]

If I have the T-GT on 100% it's like 4 times heavier than my real car to steer which seems a bit unrealistic to me. Assists cut corners, feedback is supposed to give you information you need. The way I see it is if my wheel movements look like real drivers' and I can drive very well then I'm probably closer than if I can't get round a track without crashing and/or make unnatural wheel movements.


They are but then you have 10x the travel with a pedal compared to a trigger so that balances it out for me.

Does anyone know if you can switch off the transducer while playing GT Sport? If it makes a loud vibration sound it won't be great for 2AM sessions

Yes just flip the gt switch I if I remember correctly.

 

[ghost30]

What I mean by that is actively turning down FFB to make a car easier to drive is no different to using assists so you don't have to shift gears for example.

Sim racers spend all their time bickering about which one is the best and then adjust FFB to feel how they like rather than it being realistic, I feel like I'm the only one who sees the irony in all of it.

I imagine you drive in fear that if you mess up you're going to break your arms!

Honestly I've had my CSW V2 clipping above it's max 7nm and didn't think it was that powerful, sure sudden jolts throw you out because it's impossible to react that fast but sustained force I can relatively easily overpower in a corner. Though obviously if it took 7nm to turn constantly it wouldn't be much fun like the wheel weight option in F1 2016 starting at 100% was just crazy!

Default setting for ffb strength in most racing games is unrealistically strong. A real car has power steering, and does not take that much effort to steer.

If it feels like too much resistance, and you are constantly fighting the wheel, your ffb is too strong. Yes.. you want some resistance, but you shouldn't be getting tired. Unless of course you just like it strong.

Road effects settings are a different thing than ffb. Too much ffb strength is unrealistic and detracts from precise movement.

Also, just because an average gamer turns down ffb, doesn't mean he will all of the sudden be quick. It's all relative. You still need to have excellent racecraft.