Thrustmaster T-GT Wheel Thread

It turns out T-GT is simply GT branded PS4 version based on TS-PC and isn't direct drive. I feel...

  • Excited - Still a new and the improved wheel for PS4 by Thrustmaster

    Votes: 7 16.7%

  • Fine - Knew it won't be direct drive all along

    Votes: 9 21.4%

  • Disappointed - Not a direct drive

    Votes: 11 26.2%

  • Extremely Disappointed - Not drive drive and poor pedals set

    Votes: 15 35.7%
  • Total voters
    42
  • Poll closed .
Chazy90
Just got a T-GT today, together with the T3PA Pro pedals and a Playseat Challenge. Shortly I would mention that I hard mounted these heavy pedals with a silver plate from a wheelstandpro and of course hard mounted the base on the plate, whereas the Playseat is on the floor mat.
I mention these, because maybe some of these small details can be the cause, but what actually is my question, how strong should the dfb-t/transducer should be?
In GTS mode on GTS, I don’t really feel much vibration from the base through to the pedals or the Playseat. Actually only the wheel is quite strong and I had turn down the ingame ffb settings from 6/6 to 4/4.
Is my base faulty, or how much should I expect?
Click to expand...

I have the same setup. Because of the way the pedals are connectedon the playseat (plastic and mounted on the floor) you wont feel much vibration. In other rigs the pedals are mounted with metal and suspended at an angle so the vibration might be transferred better. the vibration should be subtle and you will notice it much better after playing another game without it.

edit: cleaned up post
 
Last edited:
Chazy90
how strong should the dfb-t/transducer should be?
In GTS mode on GTS, I don’t really feel much vibration from the base through to the pedals or the Playseat. Actually only the wheel is quite strong and I had turn down the ingame ffb settings from 6/6 to 4/4.
Is my base faulty, or how much should I expect?
Click to expand...

You are running 4 sensitivity? Why so low if you're finding not enough detail in the ffb?
I don't have T-GT but I don't believe the vibration is meant to be strong enough to shake the rig, it's just for feedback through your hands. If you want to shake the rig, get a buttkicker gamer.
 
Actually I find the sensitivity setting isn't making all that much difference with T-GT. I have my settings 3/1 to make the wheel more agile in quick corrections.

@Chazy90 try going in the controller options menu and turn off controller vibration (yes, the Dualshock vibration is linked to the T-DFB programming, go figure). If you notice a difference in feedback, then your DFB is working. If not, then it's probably broken (make sure the wheel switch is set to GT Mode as well).
 
Thanks for the input.
I have changed the FFB settings in GTS back to 6/6, as I was running previously on the T300.
I can notice the rumble on some cars, more than others. For example, a GR.4 Veyron rumbles much more than a GR.3 Porsche 911. Is that normal?
In any way, even with the Veyron it's not that much, but at least noticeable. What I can also notice, is that once I turned off the controller vibration, it feels horrible numb :))
Once I go to another game like Assetto Corsa or F1 2018 and back to GTS, I can notice it a bit more, but it's still dubious, why on some cars the rumble is not really there. Any ideas or is it like this for you also?
 
I have my T-DFB turned off after the first month of using the wheel, as I feel it doesn't really contribute much to the feedback and is actually getting in the way of me turning the wheel quickly in tight situations, so I'm not really familiar how different the intensity is with different cars, sorry. If you feel it's more numb when you turn off the vibration, then I can tell you that the T-DFB is working. You can't really compare it to PC sims like Assetto - GTS even with T-DFB cannot compete with Assetto's FFB and its laser scanned tracks.

Even without T-DFB, GTS if perfectly drivable IMO. You won't even notice it's missing after a few hours of driving and you might even feel sensations of the road surface that were previously masked by the constant rumble. Heck, I switch between playing Driveclub and GTS all the time and sometimes I even use the T-GT in "Other" mode with GTS and everything is fine 👍
 
LeGeNd-1
I have my T-DFB turned off after the first month of using the wheel, as I feel it doesn't really contribute much to the feedback and is actually getting in the way of me turning the wheel quickly in tight situations, so I'm not really familiar how different the intensity is with different cars, sorry. If you feel it's more numb when you turn off the vibration, then I can tell you that the T-DFB is working. You can't really compare it to PC sims like Assetto - GTS even with T-DFB cannot compete with Assetto's FFB and its laser scanned tracks.

Even without T-DFB, GTS if perfectly drivable IMO. You won't even notice it's missing after a few hours of driving and you might even feel sensations of the road surface that were previously masked by the constant rumble. Heck, I switch between playing Driveclub and GTS all the time and sometimes I even use the T-GT in "Other" mode with GTS and everything is fine 👍
Click to expand...

For the best FFB experience, try torque 3 or 4 or 5, and set sensitivity to 1
Hope it helps.

 
Yesterday i was bored and mixed my beloved old t500 rim with the r383 rally :D
The orginal rim is cool but to small(28") the r383(32")makes the t-gt feel weak. So i put r383 and t500 together LOL
T-gt and t500 parts don't fit together, lot of other holes and different shape. :(
Now i have a nice 30" idiot crafted rim with buttons and paddels on the t-gt :dopey:
SDC19881.JPG
 
user3392345
Yesterday i was bored and mixed my beloved old t500 rim with the r383 rally :D
The orginal rim is cool but to small(28") the r383(32")makes the t-gt feel weak. So i put r383 and t500 together LOL
T-gt and t500 parts don't fit together, lot of other holes and different shape. :(
Now i have a nice 30" idiot crafted rim with buttons and paddels on the t-gt :dopey:View attachment 764560
Click to expand...

I wonder if third party wheelrims would fit and align with the holes of the R383 buttonbox.
 
PocketZeven
I wonder if third party wheelrims would fit and align with the holes of the R383 buttonbox.
Click to expand...

Looks like the standard measure for real rims is pitch circle diameter 70mm, r383 buttonbox have pitch circle diameter 60mm, so you would need a drill:tup:
There are some nice and cheap rims out there:dopey:

edit: pitch circle diameter--- not pitch circle, sry :)
 
Last edited:
user3392345
Looks like the standard measure for real rims is pitch circle diameter 70mm, r383 buttonbox have pitch circle diameter 60mm, so you would need a drill:tup:
There are some nice and cheap rims out there:dopey:

edit: pitch circle diameter--- not pitch circle, sry :)
Click to expand...

Are there adapters that could solve this?
 
Yesterday i was interested in this too, searched the whole internet for adapter or something. but found nothing. Only adapter from 70mm to 74mm or from x holes to x holes, brand-a to brand-b ect.
It should be not very hard to drill new holes, you need only 3 of them:D
:cheers:
 
PocketZeven
Ricmotech is us based. import duties add up quickly. But is it the same pattern as the TM R383?
Click to expand...

Pretty sure all the TM wheels have same PCD since they all share the same quick release construction which 3 of the bolts go into.


user3392345
Yesterday i was interested in this too, searched the whole internet for adapter or something. but found nothing. Only adapter from 70mm to 74mm or from x holes to x holes, brand-a to brand-b ect.
It should be not very hard to drill new holes, you need only 3 of them:D
:cheers:
Click to expand...

The centre badge is part of the button box on the other wheels, is it the same on the r383? Did you use a spacer to fit the T500 rim?

Also, what is the green? Has r383 button box got options for a d-pad and buttons?
 
Hi, yes weird or?:)
Looks like they had other plans with that thing. :lol:
No spacer needed, its a flat surface, fits perfect with t500 rim. You only need to remove the sparco logo(plastic clamps from inside).
Maybe also interesting, the weights.
T500 rim ca. 850g
R383 rim ca. 850g
T-GT rim ca. 700g

T500 buttonbox ca. 160g
R383 buttonbox ca. 400g
T-GT buttenbox ca. 340g
SDC19883.JPG
 
Last edited:
user3392345
Hi, yes weird or?:)
Looks like they had other plans with that thing. :lol:
No spacer needed, its a flat surface, fits perfect with t500 rim. You only need to remove the sparco logo(plastic clamps from inside).
Maybe also interesting, the weights.
T500 rim ca. 850g
R383 rim ca. 850g
T-GT rim ca. 700g

T500 buttonbox ca. 160g
R383 buttonbox ca. 400g
T-GT buttenbox ca. 340g
View attachment 764998
Click to expand...

It seems as if they are planning to use the same R383 buttonbox mold for future wheelrims? There is a cutout for D-pad and playstation buttons.
 
user3392345
Hi, yes weird or?:)
Looks like they had other plans with that thing. :lol:
No spacer needed, its a flat surface, fits perfect with t500 rim. You only need to remove the sparco logo(plastic clamps from inside).
Maybe also interesting, the weights.
T500 rim ca. 850g
R383 rim ca. 850g
T-GT rim ca. 700g

T500 buttonbox ca. 160g
R383 buttonbox ca. 400g
T-GT buttenbox ca. 340g
Click to expand...

Ah, I see now, it's just the PCB showing through. That's cool that the badge pops out completely - on other wheels I think there's a plastic lip around the badge which makes it not flat. Thanks for the pic and info!
 
Hello. Does anybody had problem with update firmware. I connected my T-GT via usb cable and mode switched to OTHER. Once i openned firmware update it says. Please unplug usb cable then chage switch to other and plug back. I tried switch it to GT and back to Other few times, plug/ unplug cable few times and still got same problem... also tried 3 different usb ports in my pc. Any ideas?
 
OscilPL
Hello. Does anybody had problem with update firmware. I connected my T-GT via usb cable and mode switched to OTHER. Once i openned firmware update it says. Please unplug usb cable then chage switch to other and plug back. I tried switch it to GT and back to Other few times, plug/ unplug cable few times and still got same problem... also tried 3 different usb ports in my pc. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Perhaps reinstall the software on the PC?
 
Thanks for that inderect hint that there is a new driver and firmware released.
I had no problems with firmware update. Base update succesfully and rim update too.

Changes made in new driver version 2018_TTRS_2:

- Added support for TM Sim Hub
- Added new firmware for the T-GT, T300 and TX Racing Wheel:
* T-GT racing wheel: Firmware V5 (for the base) – V32 (for the wheel)
* T300-series racing wheels: Firmware V29
* TX Racing Wheel: Firmware V54
= We strongly recommend that you update your wheel bases with the new
firmware.
- Changes made in the new firmware:
* Auto-calibration improvement
 
Hi. I'm using T-GT base with TS-PC racer rim. Recently I tried it on GTS with GT mode, but it disconnects after a while like 5 to 10 mins. I tried several times and this problem occured everytime. Normally I use it in Other mode on PC with no problem. Then I tried other mode GTS with Other selected, it worked without a problem. So I thought it may be caused by the rim.

So my question is, does anybody here play GTS with another rim on GT mode without such a problem? Don't ask me why but I don't have the original wheel so I can't try whether the problem is about the base.
 
Let me help you with this question. I will try other rim in gt mode now.
This diconnect problem sound like the automatic controller turn off function. Maybe it help to deactivate it? /ps4 energy options
 
Thanks for the help, I'm waiting for the result. If you can play straight 30+ mins then it should be OK.BTW, do you use standart PS4 or PS4 Pro? Someone said to me that this may be a spesific bug for the PS4, but it would work fine on PS4 Pro. I don't think so but it would be good to know.
 
Works here, no dc or strange things. I was driving 30mins now, gt-mode with t500rim, ps4pro.
If you dont have it done yet, there is a new firmware update available. Updating your base + rim maybe that would helps.
 
It's quite odd but I needed to update the TM Updater first before the new firmware is detected. Requires a computer reboot no less. Annoying.

The new firmware fixed the stuck calibration problem I mentioned a few pages back though. Thanks TM 👍
 
Sorry for the late reply.

Despite I'm on the latest firmware, I still have USB disconnection problem. If it's on the Other mode, it happens once in 10 mins then I simply re-login without needing to plug out, then no problem afterwards. I do play on Other mode regularly, just waiting about 10 mins after first start-up, then wait until first disconnection to reconnect. It's also same on my PC. It's like heating up the engine :lol:

But if it's on the GT mode, it goes out with one disconnection completely and the only way is to plug off & on the USB cable. It's sad that my main game is GT and I cannot enjoy the specific feature of the wheel.

This is really a strange issue, I really wonder what's going inside.
 
saros34
Sorry for the late reply.

Despite I'm on the latest firmware, I still have USB disconnection problem. If it's on the Other mode, it happens once in 10 mins then I simply re-login without needing to plug out, then no problem afterwards. I do play on Other mode regularly, just waiting about 10 mins after first start-up, then wait until first disconnection to reconnect. It's also same on my PC. It's like heating up the engine :lol:

But if it's on the GT mode, it goes out with one disconnection completely and the only way is to plug off & on the USB cable. It's sad that my main game is GT and I cannot enjoy the specific feature of the wheel.

This is really a strange issue, I really wonder what's going inside.
Click to expand...

It is probably the settings of the PS4 regarding sleep mode.
 

Latest Posts

Back