Thrustmaster T300 Calibration Issues

  • Thread starter Andysan
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Hi all, the thread is a bit old now, but I have a similar case. I actually have two broken T300 bases, both will not calibrate. I disassembled the motor with the instructions in the pdf and glued it with 2 component glue. I also 3D printed a new hall sensor mount. However my motor will never finish auto calibration with the calibration tool. The hall sensor mount stl I found seems to have a pretty wide gap between the magnet and the sensor PCB. How wide should that gap actually be ?
Any other suggestions ? How can I narrow down, what the problem is ?
 
Hi all, the thread is a bit old now, but I have a similar case. I actually have two broken T300 bases, both will not calibrate. I disassembled the motor with the instructions in the pdf and glued it with 2 component glue. I also 3D printed a new hall sensor mount. However my motor will never finish auto calibration with the calibration tool. The hall sensor mount stl I found seems to have a pretty wide gap between the magnet and the sensor PCB. How wide should that gap actually be ?
Any other suggestions ? How can I narrow down, what the problem is ?
Same here, did you find a solution? I mean I got this problem several years ago and still have 2 broken T300 Bases here, replaced several parts and everything but the calibration issue still exists... maybe I will give it another try now, haha.
 
Hi, I have the same problem. I disassembled the engine and will be started gluing it. The question is, does this white line on the magnet have any significance? How should I position it relative to the axis or cutout? Does it not matter?
 

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Ah ok, I see what you're trying to say. First of all, I don't have any measurements, and my motor is already installed and working so no chance of measuring it... But I'll try and help with references to the photos I took when I attempted the fix.

View attachment 1004848 View attachment 1004847 (lvl 9000 ms paint :P)

I didn't think you could move the brash bushings (1), and even if it is, it's unlikely that you moved them by accident, as there's no force applied to them at any point during the disassembly. If you are positive that you moved them, then maybe the photos above could serve as some sort of reference for moving them back to the correct place.

If not, then we come to the positioning of the black magnet cylinder. As you can see in the second photo, it should sit equidistantly to the silver cylinder thingies (2), so that the distances A and B are roughly equal. This will ensure, (assuming that 1 was not moved, or you managed to put it back in place), that the magnet is sitting at the right place in the motor.



If you've put everything back together, and the motor is turning freely, that means that the ball bearings and the cover are aligned properly. If at this point the hall sensor magnet is sitting a few mm further than it used to be, that is fine, mine was the same but the wheel is working perfectly ok. If it is more than a few mm, then it is possible to remove the black plastic that holds the hall sensor magnet (but carefully because it is glued, and it's very easy to break), and glue it back a few mm higher so it sits closer to the pcb.

hello, I have 4.1 mm in place "A" on picture.
 
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