Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%
  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%

  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
Hi there,

I've recently bought a t300 rs with pedals and a playseat challenge. After a week I'm still in the learning phase, trying to be faster than my times with a pad and not spinning out. Guess I will have to give it some time.

Any tips concerning best ffb settings?

I read you can adjust steering wheel rotation (needs to be done every race). Is there a benefit in doing so?
In GT Sport you can adjust the steering sensitivity in game under settings. I use -2 for karts and 7 for most other cars. Yes you can adjust the rotation degrees on the wheel itself once the race starts but that is a pain. Try it on 7 and see how you like that.
 
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Main tip is don't have FFB too high or you lose detail and also just end up fighting the wheel. Most games you don't need to change rotation. But change view so you can see the in game wheel and make sure your wheel rotation matches up in rotation

I drive mostly in Project Cars 2, and disable the wheel display completely. I found myself trying to tune my wheel to match my hand movements to the on-screen wheel, and suddenly wondered why the heck I had 2 steering wheels in front of me.
If I'm driving an open wheel car, I want the steering to be about a quarter-turn in either direction for most turns, like I see in real formula racing. I actually drive more open wheel than road car / supercar, but would likely turn down the steering sensitivity to be a bit more like driving in the real world if I were in a Porche hard-top.
In any case, I already have my own hands and wheel out in front of me, and I think having avatar hands on screen is more like potential conflicting feedback than any sort of help.
 
Yeah I only have that view to check my steering settings, if I'm not familiar with a certain car.
Then I'll go back to dash or bonnet cam
 
In GT Sport you can adjust the steering sensitivity in game under settings. I use -2 for karts and 7 for most other cars. Yes you can adjust the rotation degrees on the wheel itself once the race starts but that is a pain. Try it on 7 and see how you like that.
Isn't that option for controllers?
 
The pedals (two pedal set) to my T300 RS has stopped working. If I connect them to a PC and try the Thrustmaster control panel I sometimes can get some input, but most of the time no sign of life at all. Is there a way to tell if the problem is in the pedals, in the wheel base or somewhere in between?

I would happily buy a new set of pedals if I was sure it would solve the problem.
Warranty is long gone.

I finally got them to work again! The problem was that the black cable connecting the two potentiometers was just a little bit loose in the brake pedal potentiometer. Once soldered back i could put it all together and get to the race track.
 
I managed to throw away the power cable and learned that it's a proprietory cable out of stock almost everywhere. Except in germany where I don't live and they don't ship outside the country. So I wrote Thrustmaster support and they fixed it for me so that it was sent to my country. Such heroes! Modding the wheel (only alternative from buying a new wheel) was not looking to be an easy task for me. Heroes!
 
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I managed to throw away the power cable and learned that it's a proprietory cable out of stock almost everywhere. Except in germany where I don't live and they don't ship outside the country. So I wrote Thrustmaster support and they fixed it for me so that it was sent to my country. Such heroes! Modding the wheel (only alternative from buying a new wheel) was not looking to be an easy task for me. Heroes!
They took care of me right away with my problem.
 
I'm getting a T300 RS, probably the GT Edition, but I also have in my mind the Ferrari Integral Alcantara edition (if I spot a sweet deal this black Friday that is).

So you guys use the automatic cooling mode or forced cooling mode?
I think the later is best for motor longevity but how about the longevity of the fan?
 
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I'm getting a T300 RS, probably the GT Edition, but I also have in my mind the Ferrari Integral Alcantara edition (if I spot a sweet deal this black Friday that is).

So you guys use the automatic cooling mode or forced cooling mode?
I think the later is best for motor longevity but how about the longevity of the fan?
I've used forced cooling on mine since new, been running it for around 3 years now and race almost every night for a couple of hours.
 
I'm interested in the Ferrari Integral Alcantara Edition.

But I spotted some differences with real life:

xlarge_20170131134543_thrustmaster_accessory_599xx_evo_30_wheel_add_on_alcantara_edition.jpeg

Screenshot_20201104-182750~2.png


The yellow spots (buttons?) left and right are missing. The game wheel has that additional black, unlabelled button. And the lower button plates have different edge shapes.

Maybe I'm nitpicking but I'd expect an exact design replica. Why have a Ferrari licence and not use it in full?
 
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Sure but I am not asking for an exact structural replica with same top end materials, just to get the design right.
Oh well.
It may not be exactly the same design, but it’s a great rim.
 
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It may not be exactly the same design, but it’s a great rim.

I have my eyes on it for a black Friday purchase, it's not that I will ever drive a real 599XX Evo to complain that it's not 100% after all. :D

The Alcantara is as much better than the rubber of the GT Edition as I think?

EDIT: or compared to the rubber of the base T300 RS, after all I think it's the same wheel as the GT Edition minus the logo right?
 
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I have my eyes on it for a black Friday purchase, it's not that I will ever drive a real 599XX Evo to complain that it's not 100% after all. :D

The Alcantara is as much better than the rubber of the GT Edition as I think?

EDIT: or compared to the rubber of the base T300 RS, after all I think it's the same wheel as the GT Edition minus the logo right?
The Alcantara is much, much better and being a bigger rim helps as well.
 
The Alcantara is much, much better and being a bigger rim helps as well.

Then this solidifies my decision to get it. And being 2 cm larger in diameter is great too, less toy-like and more in line with my experience with real life road cars.
 
Then this solidifies my decision to get it. And being 2 cm larger in diameter is great too, less toy-like and more in line with my experience with real life road cars.
I agree, bigger rim is better, I went with the R383, it is a full 13 inches. Could never go to a smaller rim after using this for a couple years now.
 
Sure but I am not asking for an exact structural replica with same top end materials, just to get the design right.
Oh well.
The movement of one button is no biggie for me. The thing that caught my eye more was the paddles on the Thrustmaster wheel are smaller than on the car wheel.

But as above the 599xx wheel is lovely to use
 
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My road car is something close to 14-15 inches/ 36-38 cm. My initial targets as first wheel, G29 and T150 would seem so off at 11 inches/ 28 cm. :scared:

Great wheel there @Vin Sinn , I just checked it out. :cheers:
The only issue with the r383, not really an issue, but more of a learning curve. Is that instead of a D-pad it has a mini joystick which was very hard to get used to after many years having a D-pad. Still gives me some problems during fast pit stops.
 
Hey guys, my buddy @LeightonAVS just bought a T300 and when he hooked it all up it makes this sound. Does anyone know what it wrong with it or what is making that sound? Thanks very much for any and all info/help. :cheers:





@super_gt
 
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I read you can adjust steering wheel rotation (needs to be done every race). Is there a benefit in doing so?
There is not that much need to ever change wheel rotation in my experience. I do use in game settings like steering lock or steering sensitivity etc sometimes however but that is car dependant mostly.
 
Finally making some progress after the post lost some stuff I ordered...

So from this..
IMG-20201126-WA0003.jpg


And this...
20201222-135320.jpg


And ofcourse this.....
20201222-135235.jpg

20210106-141551.jpg

Turned my own idlers and fitted them with bearings, did the same with the tensioners.
Also the sprocket is now in aluminium.

20210106-141558.jpg

Also rerouted a ground wire that made disassembly more difficult than it need be.
The ground wire next to the 2 prong plug juust under the motor on the left.

Still waiting for a 26V 4A powerbrick to arrive, so I can remove it from the housing. Removing a heat source and making room for added cooling.
 
Ok, opened up the TM PSU
20210106-140409.jpg

230V into the black block on the right.
red , white , green into the transformer
black into the PCB
black from the PCB into the transformer
Red and black to the USB connector. (PCB is marked USB there)
20210106-140444.jpg

White and black from the transformer for 25V into the PCB
red and black from the PCB into the USB connector. (PCB is marked DC + - there)

so now I'm thinking:

external PSU power into the second PCB
remove ground wires from first PCB removing the transformer and power connector
plug everything back in and the power will still only come on when USB is connected?

or do I connect one cable from the new PSU to the ground of the first PCB (assuming the first PCB acts like a relay)

I'm guessing the second....

before I kill myself....any input?
 

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