Thrustmaster T500RS/T300 wheels thread

  • Thread starter Diablo_rf
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Still seems to be annoying T300 wheel 'bug' in my game, GTS resets manually setled wheel rotation after every session and after pitting too. Do you have this 'feature' still on your rim?

This rotation issue is acceptable on most of cars but how suprising in my favourite everyday tool Ferrari 458 gt3 this rotation is so tigt that I don't have even 180 decrees on my wheel and that makes precise steering impossible.
 
Still seems to be annoying T300 wheel 'bug' in my game, GTS resets manually setled wheel rotation after every session and after pitting too. Do you have this 'feature' still on your rim?

This rotation issue is acceptable on most of cars but how suprising in my favourite everyday tool Ferrari 458 gt3 this rotation is so tigt that I don't have even 180 decrees on my wheel and that makes precise steering impossible.

I wonder if my T300 does this...never tested. I rarely use 180 degrees, as you can feel the understeer start to come on, though slow hairpins i use a little over 180. I wonder if I should start testing limits...though i haven't changed any settings apart from the strength/ sensitivity etc.
 
Is it best to leave the T300RS (or any wheel) at the default 1080 degrees of rotation and let the games (GT6, GTS) do the soft lock depending on the vehicle? I find 1080 to be too much and prefer 540, but I'm not sure if setting it via firmware (T300RS) will screw up mechanics or anything in either game.
 
Is it best to leave the T300RS (or any wheel) at the default 1080 degrees of rotation and let the games (GT6, GTS) do the soft lock depending on the vehicle? I find 1080 to be too much and prefer 540, but I'm not sure if setting it via firmware (T300RS) will screw up mechanics or anything in either game.

I don't think setting it in the firmware will make any difference in GT. You have to set it manually every time you enter a race and after pitting.
 
I found that F1 2018 (PS4) resets my T500rs to 2 flashes every time I go to the wheel setup menu. It’s very frustrating. It took me a couple of hours of swearing and going through menus before I realised that the max rotoation slider does nothing! I have to manually set it on track to 900 (4 flashes) on the wheel which gives me 450 in game.
 
I figure this is probably the best thread for this question. I've been offered a friend's t500rs at a good price. He's getting a very nice Fanatec setup in month or so. The only issue I have, is the clutch pedal. I'd love to be able to use it. But, an old ankle injury that never healed properly means I'm physically incapable of heel'n'toe.

Will it work as needed if I completely ignore the 3rd pedal? Or, should I look at a two pedal set up?
 
I figure this is probably the best thread for this question. I've been offered a friend's t500rs at a good price. He's getting a very nice Fanatec setup in month or so. The only issue I have, is the clutch pedal. I'd love to be able to use it. But, an old ankle injury that never healed properly means I'm physically incapable of heel'n'toe.

Will it work as needed if I completely ignore the 3rd pedal? Or, should I look at a two pedal set up?
You dont need the clutch on GTS... but you may use it .. with certain limitations...
 
You dont need the clutch on GTS... but you may use it .. with certain limitations...

Ideal.

So, this is getting a little more specific. His pedals have been inverted in a DIY bracket/box. Do you think there would be an issue in just removing the clutch, to make it a two pedal set up? I'll need to respace them anyway, as he has much smaller feet than I do.

I would direct the questions at him. But, he's currently in hospital 150 miles away.
 
Ideal.

So, this is getting a little more specific. His pedals have been inverted in a DIY bracket/box. Do you think there would be an issue in just removing the clutch, to make it a two pedal set up? I'll need to respace them anyway, as he has much smaller feet than I do.

I would direct the questions at him. But, he's currently in hospital 150 miles away.
I ve never tried that...but I believe that if you manage to remove it... you may play GTS with it without any problem...
 
I figure this is probably the best thread for this question. I've been offered a friend's t500rs at a good price. He's getting a very nice Fanatec setup in month or so. The only issue I have, is the clutch pedal. I'd love to be able to use it. But, an old ankle injury that never healed properly means I'm physically incapable of heel'n'toe.

Will it work as needed if I completely ignore the 3rd pedal? Or, should I look at a two pedal set up?

If you have a stick shift and you shift without the clutch GT auto clutches for you, if you start using the clutch it turns auto clutch off and you’ll end up in neutral if you mess up your shift. You don’t need to use the clutch with the paddles. Also the clutch only works on cars with H pattern shift if you use the stock gearbox. When you change the gear ratios it disables the clutch.
 
I figure this is probably the best thread for this question. I've been offered a friend's t500rs at a good price. He's getting a very nice Fanatec setup in month or so. The only issue I have, is the clutch pedal. I'd love to be able to use it. But, an old ankle injury that never healed properly means I'm physically incapable of heel'n'toe.

Will it work as needed if I completely ignore the 3rd pedal? Or, should I look at a two pedal set up?

Btw the t3pa pro pedals that come with the t500 are excellent! I have mine inverted, with a cone brake mod.
 
Also the clutch only works on cars with H pattern shift if you use the stock gearbox. When you change the gear ratios it disables the clutch.

This by far has been my biggest disappointment with GT Sport. Makes quite a few cars fairly useless imo. Weather bye design or a glitch PD should be embarrassed this even exists in the game.
 
Just tried to update the firmware on my T300RS. Followed the instructions to the letter. Wheel died. Tried replacing the fuse; no help. Phoned Thrustmaster Technical Support; they talked me through the standard recovery procedure, but the wheel remains completely unresponsive. The wheel now needs to be returned to Thrustmaster for free repair. So glad I decided to update the firmware...
 
Just tried to update the firmware on my T300RS. Followed the instructions to the letter. Wheel died. Tried replacing the fuse; no help. Phoned Thrustmaster Technical Support; they talked me through the standard recovery procedure, but the wheel remains completely unresponsive. The wheel now needs to be returned to Thrustmaster for free repair. So glad I decided to update the firmware...

My T300 Alacantara is 3 years old and never have updated just because of that many wheels have died after new firmwire especially if you haven't done it for a long time like me.

Maybe I miss some nyances on FFB but still it feels ok so haven't updated just to see what happens.
 
My T300 Alacantara is 3 years old and never have updated just because of that many wheels have died after new firmwire especially if you haven't done it for a long time like me.

Maybe I miss some nyances on FFB but still it feels ok so haven't updated just to see what happens.
I wish I'd followed your example. When I get the wheel back I shall never try updating the firmware again!
 
I got a question, I have t300 gt and I can’t find cars which have soft lock at 1080 degree wheel lock, only 900 or less - is it normal?
 
Hi Guys! :)

Anybody knows if the Fanatec CSL Elite Pedals may be connected to the T500RS (or T300) Wheel Base, using the normal connection cable: pedals to Wheel Base, (that seems to be just like to the one that the Thrustmaster pedals also use...) without any other device needed in the process???

And so be used for playing games instead of Thrustmaster pedals?????
 
I don’t mind having a 900 degree lock, but I want to know is it normal and if there any car that have 1080 degree lock?
900 degree is totally normal. The GT standard.
1080 is just the max the t300 can do. no idea why they do not support it. makes no difference in racing anyway
 
900 degree is totally normal. The GT standard.
1080 is just the max the t300 can do. no idea why they do not support it. makes no difference in racing anyway

It is supported, the cars use different amounts of lock. You can feel the soft lock (the point where you run out of lock and the wheel goes stiff) change between cars. Compare the karts with a normal road car. You can change the amount of lock on the servo by pressing mode and left the or right on the D pad, the mode light will flash 1 for the shortest or 5 for the full 1080. But each time you enter the track the lock will be reset to default for that car.
 
Name a car with 1080 then, smartypants legacy... (as this was the OP's question)

It’s taken me a while to get test it but if you force the servo to do 1080 (pressing mode and left or right on the D pad: 5 flashes on the mode light = 1080) it uses the whole throw of the wheel. I tested this with karts. The karts use the shortest available range which is one flash. With the servo set to 1080, from the drivers eye view you can see that the front wheels move through out the whole range of the wheel. It is horrible to drive like this!!!
I don’t know if any of the cars use the full 1080 but to say it isn’t supported isn’t true.
 
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