Thrustmaster T598 Direct Axial Drive Discussion Thread

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🤬 🤬 ing 🤬 my T-GT II just developed a ton of ghost button presses when turning the wheel, so merry Christmas to me. First contact spray, and if that doesn't solve it I'll be looking at a T598 and that's probably sooner than later. Anyone with direct comparison experiences?
 
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🤬 🤬 ing 🤬 my T-GT II just developed a ton of ghost button presses when turning the wheel, so merry Christmas to me. First contact spray, and if that doesn't solve it I'll be looking at a T598 and that's probably sooner than later. Anyone with direct comparison experiences?
All these are from this very thread from our resident alien who made the switch.







 
Oh, that's good. I had read the posts but didn't realize he was coming from just the T-GT so all good there. I'll probably want the 32R rim later on, but then again I would have wanted it for the T-GT too so it's not an extra expense as such. Not sure if I'll ever need three pedals but that too is upgradeable if that's the case and again I had considered the T-LCM already. My TH8A will work right out of the box and that's really the biggest must have.
 
I've had a TGT-II for almost 3 years, and was thinking about switching to this one, as I've never experienced direct drive wheels. Is this a right choice? Thanks
No. Your wheel is actually more expensive than the T598, because it's a better wheel despite being belt driven. For a real step up you'd be looking at an RS50
 
Has anybody gotten the Simnet SP Pro loadcell pedals to work with the T598? I don't have the haptics but tried doing everything this guy on the video does, managed to calibrate the pedals with the Simnet software but when trying in the GT7 calibration panel, the brake pedal has no input and the throttle only went to around 50% couple of times and after that lost even that little input.

I have the pedals connected to the T598 base via Simnet's control box and the Thrustmaster-specific RJ12 cable.


Run them through Sim Hub

I wouldn't Say a better Wheel Not even Close I would say More Established and If ppl have been paying that Price from a Business standpoint why lower it? Investors will be asking that Very Question and if you are in charge and don't have a good answer you just might be looking for a job for not Maximizing Shareholder Profits...With that said the T-598 is Very Very Good at what it does. It isn't Trying to be anything it isn't the Feedback is Getting Better with every Update and this last one by Gran Turismo is THE BEST ITS DAMN EVER BEEN ITS INSANELY GOOD RIGHT NOW! So good that my Buddy who has the RS50 is contemplating returning it for the T-598, 488GT3 Wheel and T-LCM'S it's a Fantastic Set up for the Price honestly you can't beat it.....
 
Having now witnessed both the T-GT II and T598 (my previous post indeed escalated quickly) in the same rig and home environment instead of a quick test drive somewhere, I can't say the T-GT is absolutely better but more refinedly built for sure. Metal pedal faces, a metal and leather wheel compared to the plastic and rubber or the T598, of course it's more expensive as it's a more premium feeling product.

For a fair comparison you'd need at least the Raceline III pedals for the T598, and the Evo Racing 32R rim, and by that point the combination is around 800€ (base, pedals and rim) compared to the 700€ the T-GT II goes for nowadays. It would also blow the T-GT out of the water by having a ton of power (feels like it rattles my rig to pieces) and the pedal adjustability isn't even from the same planet. Both have their downsides but in the case of the T598 they're in the accessories that have been made cheaper to keep the price down, not the actual mechanics.
 
I wouldn't Say a better Wheel Not even Close I would say More Established and If ppl have been paying that Price from a Business standpoint why lower it? Investors will be asking that Very Question and if you are in charge and don't have a good answer you just might be looking for a job for not Maximizing Shareholder Profits...With that said the T-598 is Very Very Good at what it does. It isn't Trying to be anything it isn't the Feedback is Getting Better with every Update and this last one by Gran Turismo is THE BEST ITS DAMN EVER BEEN ITS INSANELY GOOD RIGHT NOW! So good that my Buddy who has the RS50 is contemplating returning it for the T-598, 488GT3 Wheel and T-LCM'S it's a Fantastic Set up for the Price honestly you can't beat it.....


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Misery loves company, so buy a T598 lol
 
He have probably missed this :):

GT7 - After update v1.66 [T598 - Recommended FFB Settings]:

View attachment 1500466
I've played around with this and multiple different "fix" settings and they don't do much to reduce the grinding sensation when you reach the peak of the slip angle. It's a huge problem because you don't get a gradual sensation of where the traction fades off, on oversteer. Now when you pass the peak slip angle, the rig shoots from 5 to 11 and rattles your teeth.

I was able to regain some fidelity by setting the FFB Sensitivity to 1 (as Thrustmaster suggested). I could then feel the tires just before they slipped out past the slip angle. However, sometimes I have to throw a V turn around somebody, and then it consistently rattles my head as I slightly drift on the outside. That's a huge car manipulation tool that I have to avoid using if my wife is in the room. So it's still detrimental to my driving.

On the bright side, the FFB Max Torque doesn't seem to be related to the issue so I'm having fun riding it at 6 and getting more torque out of the wheel (I used to run it at 4). I think their band-aid soluton is leaning too heavily on the in-game TCS being set to 1. They want the game's TCS to kill the torque vibration causing this issue. But TCS at 1 in this game bogs your engine down if you have an early throttle exit driving style. So that's not viable either.

They need to fix this ASAP, because it's a huge fidelity problem in reading what the wheel is telling us.

Oh, and setting Inertia to HIGH seems to kill the death wobbles.
 
Call a spade a spade, it's literally the cheapest DD on the market (if we exclude dogwater brands like Turtle Beach). It's never going to beat something like an RS50, despite what some users might try to lead you to believe. As an entry level DD for people on a very strict budget it ticks a box.
 
Call a spade a spade, it's literally the cheapest DD on the market (if we exclude dogwater brands like Turtle Beach). It's never going to beat something like an RS50, despite what some users might try to lead you to believe.
Says the guy with a T300. Now how many hours do you have on both a T598 and an RS50 for an actual experience based opinion, or are you just trying to sound tough by parroting what the big boys said?
 
Says the guy with a T300. Now how many hours do you have on both a T598 and an RS50 for an actual experience based opinion, or are you just trying to sound tough by parroting what the big boys said?
Sounding tough? It's not that deep bro, we are talking about sim racing hardware here not MMA. Take a breather and try again. Are you trying to argue that the T598 is as good as an RS50 or G Pro? Or Fanatec DD Pro? TM aren't even trying to build something anywhere close to that level. It's below a T818 and priced lower than the TGT2. Work it out
 
Ok. I fugured it out. Those oscilations was an effect of those recommended Boost Low and High values. +2 is too much. Both 0 are good enough.



Put the Boost Settings at Boost -2 Low, Boost -1 High there is noticeable boost in Grip and for anyone who doesn't believe me just reverse those numbers.
There is a Great article that I believe is on Boosted Media website where it goes into the Technology around the coding as it pertains to ffb signal and WildRun illustrates this better than anyone with his Multiple WR's allbeit running his Wheel Damper at 40%. This whole Idea that No Damper and NO Settings/canned effects being the Purest Signal for DD is 100% Wrong and explained very well in that article let me provide the link. I recommend everyone reading that because it cleared up alot of the questions I had regarding ffb signal specifically.

 
Sounding tough? It's not that deep bro, we are talking about sim racing hardware here not MMA. Take a breather and try again. Are you trying to argue that the T598 is as good as an RS50 or G Pro? Or Fanatec DD Pro? TM aren't even trying to build something anywhere close to that level. It's below a T818 and priced lower than the TGT2. Work it out
Not trying to argue, because I simply don't know as I haven't tried both. The point is that neither do you. What I do know is that I've had both a T-GT II and a T598, and although the T-GT is more expensive it doesn't make it better. It has a nicer feeling rim, more refined looks and a third pedal which you can't even use without paying some more for a shifter, but when it comes to actually performing as a FFB wheel the T598 is noticably better despite having a lower advertised torque as the T-GT just becomes heavy on high settings while the T598 retains the detail.

From a psychological point of view Thrustmaster made a mistake with the peripherals they're shipping the T598 bundle with. The actual wheel base has nothing wrong with it but people see the plastic wheel rim and only two pedals and immediately write it off as a low quality product, while in reality it was to make it a more accessible "starter pack" which everyone can then upgrade if they wish. If they had combined the base with the 32R rim, the Raceline III pedals and the TH8A shifter right out of the box it would be a lot more high end looking set and give an entirely different image more suitable to its capabilities but the around $900/£900/900€ price tag would ensure much lower sales.
 
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