To All PS4 Controller Users

  • Thread starter fernandito
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fernandito

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I thought It would be worth its own thread just as a heads up in case you didn't know like me.

I have tried linearity=0 on my ps4 controller, and the game has literally transformed into a complete different thing, very close to cmr2 in what it comes to fly around the track. You can now properly counter-steer everything and anything at everytime and force your softs to the death; powersteer like mad and dramatically control every reaction of the car.

With that I can now fly around the track with even the understeery groupA cars; literally levitate above the track with the ugly modern wrc ones, and drive all hard-nightmare to drive rwd cars (from Alpine to the very Porche) with the confidence of some innocent child.

I do encourage everyone of you who thought the physics of this game were bad to try that, and if you raise sensivity to 60 all the better at least in my case. You will now be able to drive like in cmr2, literally, and the tarmac experience will now be just like the old times with the controller.

I use bumper camera with all to the left fov+1.
 
Update: Restore sensivity to 50 instead of 60, while linearity continues to be set at zero. That is the sweet sweet spot. Sensivity to 60 caused some understeer when having to turn sharply followed by quick counter-steer. Do not fear less turning response after that (linearity = 0 controls that), pretty much the opposite you will now understeer less when you have to turn hard-countersteer, and the car will be even more controllable.

I can't believe the weird dr2 handling and physics was all about the linearity thing on the ps4 controller. Game could not have got more fun like this after the tweak.
 
This is what I ended up using.
 

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Steering saturation to 45?, you're gonna lose half sensivity points in your dualshock inputs when it comes to its full travel left and right (which translates into the car steering). I wouldn't recommend it.

Thank you for sharing anyway.
 
Well I spent a couple of hours after reading your post and I liked your settings but the rear was fishtailing for some reason so this helped.
I'll send you a friend request.
Regards tuna.
 
Update: Restore sensivity to 50 instead of 60, while linearity continues to be set at zero. That is the sweet sweet spot. Sensivity to 60 caused some understeer when having to turn sharply followed by quick counter-steer. Do not fear less turning response after that (linearity = 0 controls that), pretty much the opposite you will now understeer less when you have to turn hard-countersteer, and the car will be even more controllable.

I can't believe the weird dr2 handling and physics was all about the linearity thing on the ps4 controller. Game could not have got more fun like this after the tweak.

I actually like a higher sensitivity, but I'm on the xbox and use throttle and brake more than steering for control. (Plus I use chase cam!) I also recommend getting use to manual gears.
 
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I thought It would be worth its own thread just as a heads up in case you didn't know like me.

I have tried linearity=0 on my ps4 controller, and the game has literally transformed into a complete different thing, very close to cmr2 in what it comes to fly around the track. You can now properly counter-steer everything and anything at everytime and force your softs to the death; powersteer like mad and dramatically control every reaction of the car.

With that I can now fly around the track with even the understeery groupA cars; literally levitate above the track with the ugly modern wrc ones, and drive all hard-nightmare to drive rwd cars (from Alpine to the very Porche) with the confidence of some innocent child.

I do encourage everyone of you who thought the physics of this game were bad to try that, and if you raise sensivity to 60 all the better at least in my case. You will now be able to drive like in cmr2, literally, and the tarmac experience will now be just like the old times with the controller.

I use bumper camera with all to the left fov+1.
So, rather than messing around with Steering Sensitivity. Putting Steering Linearity to zero is the way to go to avoid lag and be able to catch slides etc.?

I’ll give it a try.

Edit: For me Steering Sensitivity 100 and Steering Linearity 0.

Although I do like a very responsive car. Others may want to dial down Steering Sensitivity. But Steering Linearity at zero is a must.

Another must is turning up ABS (I use 5) otherwise you will lock-up on a pad.
 
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So, rather than messing around with Steering Sensitivity. Putting Steering Linearity to zero is the way to go to avoid lag and be able to catch slides etc.?
Yes. Linearity is basically a filter to help all those who "tap" the stick from left to right, without using it accordingly to its analog nature.

Edit: For me Steering Sensitivity 100 and Steering Linearity 0.
That will lead to massive understeer the moment you start taking a corner. I'd recommend 60 max, but 50 still feels most natural over the rest (without leading you to added understeer on entry, just the natural base understeer of the car you're using) and responsive enough even on fast tarmac.

Another must is turning up ABS (I use 5) otherwise you will lock-up on a pad.
Not necessarily , as just like the throttle the l2 brake button is also "analog", allowing you to brake more or less. Brake more prior entry, tap the handbrake, and then tap your brakes sightly as you drift through the corner.

Yes, ABS is the greatest of the assists and the one many "pros" use in order to set max artificial times, but this aid is not a rally car feature so it shouldn't be used. Rally cars don't have assists, just powersteer, and that from group a on.
 
I'll give it a shot. These tarmac levels are killing me with how psychotically these RWD cars will hook and dip into turns on a dime.
 
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It worked really well, I just tested it out. RWD cars still pull hard to either side during hard breaking so whipping is still difficult but now the car doesn't freak out at high speeds. Thanks for posting.
 
For rwd cars:
- Wheel geometry. Always more rear camber than in the front; 2ºpositive toe rear, and optionally you can also add 2º positive toe in the front axis.
- Brake bias, always more to the front, and increase by one click the strength.
- Differential. If the car is very powerful (R-GT), open the power ramp a couple of clicks to the left on good grip conditions, and three clicks to the left too if grip is bad (rain; snow; very degraded surface; very degraded terrain+rain, etc). For the rest of rwd you can go with a strong locked diff without problem. Just open it more in case of the bad grip conditions like the said above.
- Dumpers: (a very important one):

a)Gravel surface not degraded or slightly. Stiffen jut one click fast bumpers and soften slow bumpers one click to the left. On the rear, if the car is front engine, apart from doing that in the fornt axis, on the rear leave fast bump default and soften the slow bumper by just one click. If car is middle or rear engine, keep an even setup with the front axis for the rear.

b)Gravel surface degraded lvl3: If front engine, stiffen fast bumper by two clicks, and soften the slow by at least one click, preferably two. Stiffen rear fast bumper just one clicks, and soften slow ones one click too. If rear or middle engine. If middle or rear engine, keep again an even setup with the front. If you stiffen front fast bumper two clicks, then do the same in the rear. Same for slow bumper.

c)Tarmac. If front engine, slow bumpers stiffen two clicks in the front and one in the rear. Front fast bumpers soften just one click, same in the rear. For middle and rear engine cars, keep an even setup here too. Stiffen slow bumper two click?, same in the rear then.

- Supension and springs. The spring compression I'd usually recommend leaving it default, or just slight adjustments of one click.

-Ride Heigh. This is very important, and where lots of folks still use, to say it somehow, a colin mcrae2 style of setups of that era. (for tarmac we lowered the car almost to the bottom, and for rallies like greece we raised the height almost full, and stuff like that). That is a fatal mistake. In this game like its predecessor, you have to take into consideration that you car comes prepared with a different setup for gravel, and another for tarmac, even the bumpers regardless we can see no compression numbers in that section. Just check it in the numbers for springs and ride height centimetres. This means that for instance, when you are on tarmac, just lower front ride height one or two clicks, and one the rear because the car comes prepared with low ride height values already. Gravel without degradation on very smooth gravel surfaces like New England?, you can even lower the front by just one click and leave the rear default. Or just leave front height default and increase rear one click. Very degraded surface?, increase one click front and two rear, same for rain with degraded surface too. Always keep the rear one click higher than the front.

And last but not least, try to setup your gearbox properly. It is always the one that comes configured..., poorly, specially for technical tracks.
_____________________________________________________

I hope this all improves you experience with not just rwd cars. I have literally no issue with them, porche and all rgt included. If you follow those steps when you setup your car, its handling should improve like a 20% at least. I think you're also having overheat issues with your tyres. You always go softs?, on tarmac try to use hards, and use softs only when raining or no stages to boxes.

And yes..., the linearity thing has been like rediscovering America with this game heh. I couldn't believe the change. It should work on xboxone controller too.
 
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Was going to open another separate thread because i think this might be also important, while I have was messing with preload some hours ago with cars that have it, and funny thing the handling has again improved by a pretty noticeable margin like with he story with the linearity as well.

I have noticed that in this game preload serves only to cause understeer (more) that cannot be used for good, like powersteering as you head out off the road while udnersteering. It simply drags your car out of the road without giving you in return the traction it is supposed to offer when off-throttle.

And yes. This has also improved group a epic understeering cars like the Escort. And yes too, improves the very weird handling of the Delta as well. Actually, I have "discovered" this while messing with group a setups, and it works.

Give it a go. Do it even with the most powerful rwd like r-gt, which should benefit from this stuff, but in this game it looks like the opposite, as with many other things setup wise.

Hope it helps even further those who still find the handling in this game a bit frustrating.
 
Was going to open another separate thread because i think this might be also important, while I have was messing with preload some hours ago with cars that have it, and funny thing the handling has again improved by a pretty noticeable margin like with he story with the linearity as well.

I have noticed that in this game preload serves only to cause understeer (more) that cannot be used for good, like powersteering as you head out off the road while udnersteering. It simply drags your car out of the road without giving you in return the traction it is supposed to offer when off-throttle.

And yes. This has also improved group a epic understeering cars like the Escort. And yes too, improves the very weird handling of the Delta as well. Actually, I have "discovered" this while messing with group a setups, and it works.

Give it a go. Do it even with the most powerful rwd like r-gt, which should benefit from this stuff, but in this game it looks like the opposite, as with many other things setup wise.

Hope it helps even further those who still find the handling in this game a bit frustrating.

Dropping the diff to minimum makes a world of difference to RWD cars
 
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