Tore's DIY 1000W raceframe.

  • Thread starter djustiz
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Jav
Hmmm... Would you have a DIY for the shifter mod??

No, but what I did was pretty simple. The tension/stiffness is controlled by the friction of a spring loaded rounded surface running in a groove. I simply put extra tension in the spring by adding approximately 1 cubic centimeter worth of high density foam in the tube that contains the spring. I also lined the groove with some thin textile tape to get rid of that (to my mind) annoying plasticy clicky sound when you shift.
 
Those naked babies in the first set of pictures under the table are freaking me out man....gonna have nightmares.

LOL! Well I'm just so used to my daughters toys being strewn about the place I don't notice them any more. After posting pictures on this forum I've learned that others do. :)
 
Nah its fine I have a 5yr old daughter but she's a clean angel compared to the messy evil asshat that is my 2.5 year old son...friggin boys...you think you want a boy...but you really dont...trust me
 
I also lined the groove with some thin textile tape to get rid of that (to my mind) annoying plasticy clicky sound when you shift.

Nice thought! What I did was to fill all the empty space (cells) with insulating material to prevent the resonator effect, but didn't helped a lot... I'll try your idea:)

Nah its fine I have a 5yr old daughter but she's a clean angel compared to the messy evil asshat that is my 2.5 year old son...friggin boys...you think you want a boy...but you really dont...trust me

I do trust you, I have two 5.5yr old daughters and I'm very happy about this, they even show interest in my race gaming...:sly:
 
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Just the outside I guess. I think it's awesome that you have your man cave in a train car outside your house. I mean, how many people can say that?

How cold does it get in there in the winter? :P
 
Just the outside I guess.

Damn - now its dark again, and I didn't get around to take a picture of the train car.

I think it's awesome that you have your man cave in a train car outside your house. I mean, how many people can say that?

Well - I don't know any, but I'd highly recommend it to anyone! Its awesome! :D

How cold does it get in there in the winter? :P

Well, the walls and the roof has about 10 cm of isulation, and I've got a small heater to keep it frost-free out there. If only I remember to turn up the heater for about half an hour before I go out there the temperature is fine - and the tactile units, amplifiers and all the other electronics give a lot of heat also.A few weeks ago we had -18 degrees Celsius in Denmark, and during that time it was actually too cold out there to be playing, but otherwise its fine. :)
 
Which TT's have you chosen to use -do you feel a better immersive effect?
Looking forward to seeing the train car, in- and outside

Looking good there, hope you enjoy the upgraded "monster"...
 
Ok, here's some pictures of the train car. The previous owner dressed it up with wooden planks and a nice roof.

I'm guessing it startet life as something like this:

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And now it looks like this:
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I've got a home studio and sim racing setup out there. The studio is hidden behind the screen when I'm driving.

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And then there is the co-driver's seat for team based endurance races. ;-)

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Which TT's have you chosen to use -do you feel a better immersive effect?

I bought some of these:

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They were dirt cheap, quite powerfull but not really that sophisticated - they provide reasonable low frequency effects, but lack somewhat at higher frequencies. I'm thinking that maybe I should re-mount my homebuild TT's as well, as they had almost the opposite characteristics.

Looking good there, hope you enjoy the upgraded "monster"...

I am - very! Thank you! :D
 
LOL! Full on dude, seriously sick...somwhat secluded man cave you got there...love it!:dopey:👍
Also...I dig your Type R seat!:D
R*
 
Thank you! :D

... a secluded man cave means that I can run the PA-system as loud as I like without waking up the kids or bothering the missus! ;)
 
I bought some of these:

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They were dirt cheap, quite powerfull but not really that sophisticated - they provide reasonable low frequency effects, but lack somewhat at higher frequencies.
At one point I got a couple of TT's, which when taken apart, looked quite like the units you got. They worked quite allright but "bottomed" out when fed too much juice.
 
great work!!! Very creative and industrious!!

Am i getting confused, or did you say that you are running the seat bass off one side (L) and the wheel and pedals off the other side (R)? So when going through a chicane, your arse shakes when you hit the left hand side rumble strip and your feet shake when you go over the right hand side rumble strip? :)

I know bass is non-directional, but the game definitely puts distinct LFE signals to both channels when outputting through RCA. So aren't you losing out a little by hooking up in that way. You've got stereo TT, but head to foot (and hands), rather than left to right.

like i said, i'm probably confused!!
 
great work!!! Very creative and industrious!!

Am i getting confused, or did you say that you are running the seat bass off one side (L) and the wheel and pedals off the other side (R)? So when going through a chicane, your arse shakes when you hit the left hand side rumble strip and your feet shake when you go over the right hand side rumble strip? :)

I know bass is non-directional, but the game definitely puts distinct LFE signals to both channels when outputting through RCA. So aren't you losing out a little by hooking up in that way. You've got stereo TT, but head to foot (and hands), rather than left to right.

like i said, i'm probably confused!!

I can see why you are confused - I never wrote anywhere, that the left and right signals are merged before they reach the amps that drives the TTs. All my tactile feedback is "mono". But I find that it doesn't matter much. My impression is that and when your eyes tell you that you hit the curb on the right side, it feels as though the vibration is stronger there. And When your car jumps on Eiger its the same thing. your eyes tell you that the front of the car is touching down first, and its like you feel the thumb of the front wheels touching down in your feet, and then your bottom follows when the rear wheels hit the ground. I guess the brain is smart like that - filling out the gaps in our sensory perception.
 
Since my rig is now permanently setup in the man cave, I no longer need it to be small, light and easy to stow away. Thus I have begun rebuilding it. Mainly to get rid of the bar between the legs. I am no where near done with the rebuild, but this is how it looked last night when I ran out of time and battery for the cordless screwdriver/drill.

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Mate nice rig, i am currently building one to get ready for Gt6. Comming along but getting ready to diy some TT's. Those filters look awesome. what manufacturer and model number are they??
 
I know this is long dead, and thank you @molch_82 for bringing it back to life! I just gotta say this is awesome! I'll definitely be adding something like this to my rig. Hopefully the OP is still around. I am curious what he did for the main shakers. Did he get actual shakers or diy from an old sub? If diy, how much weight did they glue to it?
I too and getting my rig setup for gt6 (and other games), and look forward to experimenting with this.
 
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Modded a spare DFP I had lying around with a bigger wheel (I know, it looks horrible, but the design is simple and simple works (and its cheap!)).
This has presented me with quite a dilemma. The modded wheel has a much more natural feel in terms of size, but it also isolates my hands from both vibrations from the TT and force feedback from the DFP.

What do I do?
The big wheel seems kinda numb compared to the original DFP, but the DFP wheel seems kinda small, silly and toy-like in comparison.

Any suggestions?

Hi , it is a really interesting mod and i'm looking to do the same , how did you fix the new wheel ? did you used a adapter ? can we have more pictures please !! many thanks ;)
 
Hey! Still around, though I'm not as active anymore. Thanks for your interest. :-)

As of now, the 7 shakers are all commercially available units. No DIY-shakers anymore. The off-the-shelf shakers will simply accept more power, and shake harder. But the DIY units does still have their merits.

I abandoned the wheel mod and went for at Fanatic wheel instead. The DFP's servo simply isn't powerful enough to give reasonable sensation or resistance through that big a steering wheel. Incidentally I used a DIY wooden adaptor.
 
The fact you're listing 1000 watts in the title leads me to think that' what your amps are capable of driving in total. Just a warning though, I've hooked an Aura shaker up to a kill-a-watt meter and if you keep the volume low enough to not exceed 50 watts on the shaker, there's a LOT of room you'd think you can still go. They can be driven well above their rated 50 watts. And if you do, I'm not sure how long they'll last. Just an FYI.
 

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