Train your B spec Bob and fill your wallet!!!!

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I have seen several posts that are frustrated when they try to use their B spec driver in some of the long endurance races, nothing like falling asleep in the lead and waking up behind. The first thing to know is that when you plan on letting him take over the wheel, you better have the other cars a little overmatched. The other trick is to train him on earlier races right away and let his points build with yours. If you use championships like the German Touring Car, your build up his points in a fast race car and make a lot of money (almost 900k once you sell your CLK). I found the SuperSpeedway enduro gives him good points in a car like the Minolta Toyota. Once B spec Bob has about 5000 points, and you keep him on setting 3. He wont ruin your races so much. Thanks for the F1 car Bob, keep up the good work. 👍
 
I thought putting him in a stock car, with no mods, builds his ratings faster? Thats what it seemed like to me when I was trying to train him for the enduro's.
Even with less than 5000 points though, my guy had no problem doing any of the 24hr enduros on setting 3. Thats about all i've used him for too. 👍
 
easy to build him up... just make him do practice rounds in any car, in any course and you'll get HEAPS of b-spec points (machine and course) ... make him do sunday cup races with a super car so you can build up his battle points... I got more than 5K points doing this in about 5 hours. :)
 
If you want to rack up a ton of points, B-Spec the German Touring Car Championship (or whatever it's called) with the CLK Touring Car that you win in the SLK repeatedly. The car's pretty much unstoppable in those races, aside from the first one in Paris, and you can rack up quite a bit of cash on the side, anyway, by selling the Mercedes CLK Race Car that you win.
 
Aw I haven't needed much in the way of B-spec points. You just need money to buy superior cars. Save everything you have and buy a Nissan 390 Road Car with all the mods and a wing (only costs about 1,200,000 Cr plus with mods). Enter El Capitan and set it on 2 plus overtake then take a nap or watch a movie. It'll finish about 6 laps ahead of every car. I didn't even have ANY B-spec points at the time. Take the 250,000 Cr and and/or sell the Minolta Toyota. Re-run said race a half a dozen times and you'll be rich enough to buy any other car your heart desires. If you enter a modded Minolta Toyota in any Sarthe Race it should probably win with 500 B-spec points by 8 laps ahead of the second place car depending on your suspension, tires and gearing setup. I'm at 93% with only about 3,000 B-spec points. I haven't lost a B-spec race yet after running all races over four hours using B-spec and having a quicker car than the competition.

You just need to determine what your goals are in playing GT4. A and B-spec Points, first-place wins or accumulating vehicles.
 
as far as I know ... any repeat race with the same car won't give you extra b-spec points
thats what happen when I use the same car doing the same endurance race over and over again
 
Hi Chaps

There was a post around here a while ago that covered the ground of how to train your B-Spec pilot quite well. I can't find it again for some reason but I did save off the text and ported it into WORD. So here it is again; just to reiterate, this is not my work but I can't recall who dug it up originally so I can't credit him:


________________________________________________________________________
I copied the following information from an interesting thread found at GameFaqs. Threads on GameFaqs can only go to 500 posts, then they become locked, and are soon are purged. I thought that I should post some of it here for the sake of posterity.
Most of the following information was translated from a Japanese website and presented by two GameFaqs users: itazura_da (gs) and toga1976. Please note that the author of the Japanese site presents these ideas as theories and doesn't claim to have definitive answers...

1. Maxing out points (overall, machine, course, battle) can be accomplished using just one car from each of four "classes". These classes are referred to as A, B, C ,and D and seem to correspond, respectively, to normal, tuned, race, and special cars. The classes are further divided into A1, A2, B1, B2, C1, C2, D1, and D2. I'm not sure how these "classes" are determined or confirmed (that point doesn't seem to get much attention on the Japanese site), but the author has a table showing the classes to which each car belongs. Tuning a car can change its class designation. Setting opposing car strength to -2 through -10 not only permits managing the race for gradual/steady passing (ensuring high battle points), it also allows you to conduct much of the race in "slow down" or "cruise" mode, which in turn ensures high course points by keeping your driver on the track.

2. The author provides tables showing which cars, tunings, tracks, opponent levels, etc. he used in order to max out B-spec scores using only family cup races ( http://www.geocities.jp/j8ba7yrg/gt4/7_10000.html ). There are two tables -- the first details the first 7000 points (100 machine, 70 course, 70 battle), and the second details the remaining 3000 points.

3. Achieving the first 7000 points can be done using only four cars on the Nurburgring. However, the cars need to be tuned in various ways to cover all of the A-D "subclasses". The cars used by the author of the site are listed below (my apologies if these model names do not correspond exactly with the English designations...Im just translating without referring to an English language list):

A-1: Volkswagen Lupo 1.4 '02, default;

A-2: Mazda Roadster 1800 RS (NB) '04, default

B-1: Mazda Roadster 1800 RS (NB) '04, default + supercharger

B-2: Mazda Roadster 1800 RS (NB) '04, default + stage 3 turbo

C-1: Toyota RSC Rally Raid '02, default

C-2: Toyota RSC Rally Raid '02, default + medium racing tires

D-1: Nissan Fairlady Z Concept LM Race Car '02, default

D-2: Nissan Fairlady Z Concept LM Race Car '02, default + stage 3 turbo

As Toga rightly clarified earlier, the author of the Japanese page still considers all of this a work in progress, and IS NOT trying to say that these are the ONLY cars that can be used, or that this is the only combination or order of races. He has concluded, however, that better results are obtained if you start racing with the A-1 cars and work your way up to the D-2 cars when running the Nurburgring races.

He also proposes some more detailed theories about point breakdowns. For instance, he speculates on this page ( http://www.geocities.jp/j8ba7yrg/gt4/10000_3.html ) , based on his test results, that the initial 7000 points are broken down as follows: 586 points for class A-1 cars, 737 points for class A-2, 901 points for class B-1, 1077 each for classes B-2 and C-1, 983 points for class C-2, 878 points for class D-1, and 761 points for class D-2. The remaining 3000 points, he speculates, are divided evenly (750 points each) between car classes A, B, C and D. He further suggests that the first 7000 points impact machine skill, course skill, and battle skill, and that attaining 7000 points should yield machine, course, and battle skills of 100, 70 and 70, respectively. The final 3,000 points impact only course and battle skills.

4. The remaining 3000 points require races at the remaining tracks using the same four cars, with no need to alter tunings to achieve different "subclasses". For the final 3000 points, the author uses:

A: VW Lupo 1.4 '02, default + medium racing tires

B: Mazda Roadster 1800 RS (NB) '04, default + supercharger + medium racing tires

C: Toyota RSC Rally Raid Car '02, default + medium racing tires

D: Nissan Fairlady Z Concept LM Race Car '02, default

5. As for strategy, the key point is this: you need to focus on battle points, the other points will come just by running the tracks with the different cars. For each of the "final 3000 point" races, it should be possible to obtain approximately 13 B-SPEC points, of which (the author speculates) 4 are battle points and 9 are course points. Actually, on another page, he speculates in more detail that the final 3000 points are broken down into 750 points per car category (A-D), spread out over 58 courses, such that each course yields 12.93103... points. He speculates that course points are doled out at 8.620 points per track and battle points at 4.310 points per track. Gaining the full battle points for each race is the big obstactle, and the author did some testing and concluded that the key is to NOT PASS THE OPPOSITION TOO QUICKLY or finish the race with TOO BIG A LEAD.

6. That last point requires its own bullet! The author did some testing and found that passing too many opposing cars in roughly the first 12 seconds of a race can reduce battle points awarded. So he adopted a strategy of downgrading the opponent level to a point where the B-Spec driver can be paced in "slow down" mode to lag back and not pass until at least about 13 seconds into the race (or at Nurburging, before the first hairpin), then not run away from the competition. As a result, in all of the races shown in his tables, the opposition skill level has been set at between -2 and -10. He points out that strategies for pacing will vary depending upon whether the race has a grid or rolling start. and will also be impacted by the length of the course. But in any case, the key is to try to hold back, then pass at least a few cars, finishing either in first or in some other position without a large gap between B-Spec driver and opposing cars.

7. Using the above approach, the author reached 10,000 100, 100, 100 in only 267 races (and actually WINNING all of the family cups, for good measure, although winning them is not necessary).

Only time will tell who the first GTPlaneter to get to 10,000/100/100/100 will be.
________________________________________________________________

Hopefully, this will be of some use to you. One thing I noted from my own B-Spec'r was that he learned a massive amount from one series in a highly tuned Cerbera (even tho' he lost every race very badly).

It would definitely seem that you need to move him about a bit from ride to ride, track to track and vie him against varying opposition so that he learns.
 
Yeah I added close to 100 b spec points and something like 8 course and 5 or 6 machine points by making my guy drive le sarthe II From the time I went to bed until I got home from work one day. I kept him on 3X speed so he drove for like 45 hours/860+ laps. The poor R92 had to be sold off due to its permanent loss of almost 100 hp. He doesn't miss the turn at the end of the straight now though.
 
mine has about 7400 points and at the LM 24h race II he always "flies" out of the track at the end of the long strait without skikanes!!!!!
I just can´t run this enduro with such a stupid driver, I mean he HAS over 7000 pts and what´s going on?...ON EVERY OTHER TRACK he´s quite good(especially on el capitan) but just on this Le Mans II he sucks! :( :( :(
please can someone help!?

and you say you just need to race on nürb with the 4 cars above, but which race do you mean?-PRACTICE(where you can make a family or photo race) or somewhere in the EUROPEAN LEAGUE??
 
GT-One Lover
mine has about 7400 points and at the LM 24h race II he always "flies" out of the track at the end of the long strait without skikanes!!!!!
I just can´t run this enduro with such a stupid driver, I mean he HAS over 7000 pts and what´s going on?...ON EVERY OTHER TRACK he´s quite good(especially on el capitan) but just on this Le Mans II he sucks! :( :( :(
please can someone help!?


What car are you using? Has he had experience with that car before now? If it has are the settings good/chasis refreshed?

My guy had that problem because he had no experience on that track. After I set him on a Practice Mode for 45 hours he does quite well now. Just put him in a car that can easily be replaced, (I used the R92) because you will burn it out, and then go into practice mode and bspec at 3X. Do it before you go to bed so that he can run all night while you sleep, check and make sure he didn't get pinned or something else stupid in the morning, and then when you get home from work/school/whatever he should have improved tremendously.

Unfortunately the car had permanently lost over 100hp due to the 9000+ miles he put on it. It was quickly replaced by entering the ruined into the Fuji 1000km and winning a new one. After I tuned the new one I sold the ruined one for $690,000+.

So, you can make him learn it while you are busy doing real life things like sleeping.

Another thing to consider is your pace. After all that practice he will still screw it up on 4 or 5, but 3 or lower and he does it almost flawlessly. If it is early on and you are just trying to take the lead and using pace 5 and overtake go donw to 2 or 3 before the turn and then take it back up. Taking overtake off momentarily will also make him drop into a proper racing line. Once you have the lead turning the pace down will let him slow down properly.
 
GT-One Lover
mine has about 7400 points and at the LM 24h race II he always "flies" out of the track at the end of the long strait without skikanes!!!!!
I just can´t run this enduro with such a stupid driver, I mean he HAS over 7000 pts and what´s going on?...ON EVERY OTHER TRACK he´s quite good(especially on el capitan) but just on this Le Mans II he sucks! :( :( :(
please can someone help!???

If he is sliding into the sand at the end of the long straight, it sounds to me like the brake balance is set too high. If it is higher than 3 (front and rear), my B-Spec driver tends to lock up the brakes and is not able to take the turns properly, especially after a high speed stretch. Check this out.

GT-One Lover
and you say you just need to race on nürb with the 4 cars above, but which race do you mean?-PRACTICE(where you can make a family or photo race) or somewhere in the EUROPEAN LEAGUE??

Run the Family Cup Races, starting with the different class cars at the Nurburgring as explained in the post that he referred to, which is this one:
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showpost.php?p=1580846&postcount=31
 
A lot of people say that you have to overpower a car for Bob to compete. There is some truth to that. In short races, yes, he is a little slow to pass but once he does, he is gone. On endurances my Bspec'er is quite impressive. Last night I reran the Roadster endurance in a stock 1800 and he lapped 2nd place 2 and the rest of the field 6 or 7 times. At LeSarthe I, I put him in my Toyo GT1, black version, and he lapped 2nd place R92 6 times, stock.
 
videogame adict
The thing I do with Bob is when he's comin up to someone I put it on 5 and he hits em into the wall or sand:tup:.
Really, I'll have to try that. I know whenever I slam them they keep their line and I'm the one that goes spinning out of control. I will have to say though, Bob's current specs are 8375 87/82/82 and he's really starting to drive a little more aggressive. I've recently been noticing him trading paint slipping to the inside overtaking in turns, and his bump from behind going into turns sometimes works.
 
I hate it when they're on a long straight like on Saarthe and instead of whizzing past a guy they're coming up behind, they slow down and go behind. It's so stupid.

Mine beat the Shelby on the El Capitan enduro with a lightly modified Amuse R1.
 
KaffeinE 86
I hate it when they're on a long straight like on Saarthe and instead of whizzing past a guy they're coming up behind, they slow down and go behind. It's so stupid.

Mine beat the Shelby on the El Capitan enduro with a lightly modified Amuse R1.
I hear you man. I ran the El Capitan with a Skyline Mspec Nur with nothing but a wing.
 
There are a ton of threads on both how to max out your B spec points, including the technique outlined by sukerkin and everyone surely knows about the DTM 900K and italian car championship tricks for fast cash.

My B spec is approaching 9000 points and he rarely slows down and gets behind anyone, if only I could tell him to not be afraid to bang it up out there, he's afraid to make a little contact and spin opponents, pity.
 
I run with the MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car and it´s brakes are NOT locking up, though they´re on 17/17!! I drove with it, ok its brakes are not good but my bob also brakes much tooO late!! :(
he tries to get the corner, he slides, but that doesn´t change anything--he runs into the sadn-but at least not anymore against the wall!
and for letting him drive all day on LM II with the car doesn´t change anything either!
I ran about 1 hour and he always made this stupid mistake and the worst: his points didn´t grow!!!:(:(
he knows the car, I always drive the el capitan enduro with it(sprot tyres)when I go out so what´s the matter?

PLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASE
can you tell me which car I should take(which has the best brakes and much power? R92CP?)
or at least which settings I should choose?plz:(
 
GT-One Lover
PLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASEPLEASE
can you tell me which car I should take(which has the best brakes and much power? R92CP?)
or at least which settings I should choose?plz:(
Which race GT? If your asking about the 2 24hr LeSarthe endurances-Sauber. I ran LeSarthe I with a stock Sauber with only suspension and LSD modification and lapped the 2nd place R92 a few times. I started LeSarthe II last night and 17 or so hours in he is 20+ seconds after pit and 1'00"+ after 2nd place pits. 2nd is a Minolta. The Minolta and Bob have lapped the entire field. 3rd Mazda787 four laps, Jaquar XJ whatever 6 laps or so, Peug 905 in the teens, and the poor GT40 looks like a Yugo or something. I have the Sauber setup as before only change is Medium slicks front, and Hard slicks rear. I believe the Minolta's on Hards but doesn't push the technical areas so is getting 1 extra lap on a set of tires. My slowest lap is 2 seconds faster than the Minolta but my pit lap is 3 seconds slower than the Minoltas pit lap. My Sauber has been consistantly pulling a fraction of a second lead per Sauber/Minolta pit cycle.
 
GT-One Lover
I run with the MINOLTA Toyota 88C-V Race Car and it´s brakes are NOT locking up, though they´re on 17/17!! I drove with it, ok its brakes are not good but my bob also brakes much tooO late!! :(
Why don't you simply just try 3/3 and report back. I will guarantee you right now that if your Toyota Minolta doesn't need a body refresher, this will SOLVE your BRAKE LOCKING problem!
 
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