type R engines

[takatasan]

Can you supercharge any of the honda type R's?

 

[aadil717]

Can you supercharge any of the honda type R's?

Nope, only turbocharged.

Source: I have all the EK9s, EP3s, FD2, DC2 and DC5s - they can only be turbocharged.

The NSX Type R isn't forced induced in any way.

There are none that I am aware that can be Supercharged however I am aware that in real life it's quite popular, but I don't think PD implemented it.

 

[takatasan]

Ok thanks

 

[crcn11]

I'm pretty sure turboing Vtec is asking for trouble anyway, I've heard of so many turbo Hondas blowing up but never a problem with supercharging, I'd love to see more options implimented.
a little drunk right now so forgive any idiocy

 

[Kwicko]

I'm pretty sure turboing Vtec is asking for trouble anyway, I've heard of so many turbo Hondas blowing up but never a problem with supercharging, I'd love to see more options implimented.
a little drunk right now so forgive any idiocy

I've personally watched both types grenade their engines. There's an old saying in the Honda community: "Forced induction Hondas tend to lead short, exciting lives." Watched a guy explode a turbocharged B16 that dyno'd at 320hp at the wheels. At least it made that power once. *ONCE.* Used to autocross with a guy who ran a JR supercharger on his D16A6, and watched as it belched its guts out all over the slalom, too.

But that said, I see more people superchargin their D- and B-series engine than turbocharging them, and in my experience the supercharged ones seem to last a bit longer before they blow out the #3 cylinder. And for some reason, every single one I've ever seen explode, it's always the #3 cylinder...

There's a reason I keep my Hondas naturally aspirated.

 

[crcn11]

I've personally watched both types grenade their engines. There's an old saying in the Honda community: "Forced induction Hondas tend to lead short, exciting lives." Watched a guy explode a turbocharged B16 that dyno'd at 320hp at the wheels. At least it made that power once. *ONCE.* Used to autocross with a guy who ran a JR supercharger on his D16A6, and watched as it belched its guts out all over the slalom, too.

But that said, I see more people superchargin their D- and B-series engine than turbocharging them, and in my experience the supercharged ones seem to last a bit longer before they blow out the #3 cylinder. And for some reason, every single one I've ever seen explode, it's always the #3 cylinder...

There's a reason I keep my Hondas naturally aspirated.

Aw, short exciting lives. As long as they're happy Hondas. I'm sure the turbo B16 was fun while it lasted 👍

 

[sumbrownkid]

These engines end up exploding is probably because of age, and the fact that those motors weren't designed for forced induction to begin with.

Can't expect a Civic to pump out 300+ horses without some reliability issues.

 

[Twilight]

I'm pretty sure turboing Vtec is asking for trouble anyway, I've heard of so many turbo Hondas blowing up but never a problem with supercharging, I'd love to see more options implimented.
a little drunk right now so forgive any idiocy

I always hate these kinds of threads because of all of the poor, misinformation that floats around.

First of all that is a myth. The VTEC B and D series engines are superior to the no-tec engines for boost due to their valve lift and duration and superior flowing heads.

Second, modifying an engine with forced induction has to be done properly, and if it is, it will last, regardless of how it came from the factory. I've been racing my real-life turbo GSR for over 5 years. It sees 8200 rpms more often than not. I always beat the p*** out of it every time I drive it on the street and on the track.

Thirdly, supercharging is usually less reliable than turbocharging due to the fact that most of the builds out there don't allow for proper cooling (think lack of intercooling).

In my real-world experiences, Honda motors seem to be among the most reliable engines when utilizing forced induction. Like I said, do it right and it will last.

 

[oopssorryy]

It's not VTEC that's the issue, it's the strength of the engine. You can't (or shouldn't I should say) put any type of FI on a NA engine without strengthening the engine, from it's rods to it's shims and such. If you don't do this you will have a very fast car once, if you build it right you can have a fast car all the time. There are few cars you can just throw a larger turbo/supercharger on (i.e. MK4 Supra and a few others). These cars are over built from the factory, but it's still a good idea to build them up, for the more power you make over stock, the less reliable your engine becomes. To combat this you MUST strengthen the engine.

Supercharging is sometimes seen as more reliable, but that's largely due PSI most common aftermarket push is rather low. Once you get up in PSI SC's tend to generate more heat than their turbo counterparts, and their placement usually doesn't help, being right on top of the engine (heat rises....). Without proper cooling any and all FI set ups will end in a lost engine.

In game I don't personally know if you can put any type of FI on Honda Type R's or not, even though you see it IRL you can't really tell if PD will put it in.

 

[Kwicko]

I always hate these kinds of threads because of all of the poor, misinformation that floats around.

First of all that is a myth. The VTEC B and D series engines are superior to the no-tec engines for boost due to their valve lift and duration and superior flowing heads.

Second, modifying an engine with forced induction has to be done properly, and if it is, it will last, regardless of how it came from the factory. I've been racing my real-life turbo GSR for over 5 years. It sees 8200 rpms more often than not. I always beat the p*** out of it every time I drive it on the street and on the track.

Thirdly, supercharging is usually less reliable than turbocharging due to the fact that most of the builds out there don't allow for proper cooling (think lack of intercooling).

In my real-world experiences, Honda motors seem to be among the most reliable engines when utilizing forced induction. Like I said, do it right and it will last.

Yup, I've seen some that were built right - of both types - and they DO last quite well. The best I ever saw was a guy in Houston who did two identical red CRX Si cars, one with turbo, the other supercharged. He was an engineer, and these were the cleanest installations I ever saw - the engine bays looked far cleaner than stock - and they were built to last. He wasn't running much boost, which seems to be the downfall of so many of these motors. People keep wanting to up the boost and turn up the wick, until BOOM! - there goes the engine!

 

[RoadRocket77]

It's all relative to what the engine was designed for. If you throw a supercharger or a turbo on a 200 hp 4 banger and suddenly make 350 without upgrading the pistons, pushrods, and crankshaft... of course the engine is gonna spit out the stock parts because they can't take the excess pressure. Upgrade the engine itself with the power you are adding. Same goes for drivetrain tuning. If you got a drivetrain that is designed for a 300 hp engine, but subject it to the force of 600 hp, your tranny is gonna fall out or you could destroy your differential.
Saw this on Pinks... An old chevy truck dropped the Rear Diff in an oily, smoky, chunky mess because the engine was tuned up, but the drivetrain was stock. ripped the gearing right out of his ass end.

 

[crcn11]

I always hate these kinds of threads because of all of the poor, misinformation that floats around.

First of all that is a myth. The VTEC B and D series engines are superior to the no-tec engines for boost due to their valve lift and duration and superior flowing heads.

Second, modifying an engine with forced induction has to be done properly, and if it is, it will last, regardless of how it came from the factory. I've been racing my real-life turbo GSR for over 5 years. It sees 8200 rpms more often than not. I always beat the p*** out of it every time I drive it on the street and on the track.

Thirdly, supercharging is usually less reliable than turbocharging due to the fact that most of the builds out there don't allow for proper cooling (think lack of intercooling).

In my real-world experiences, Honda motors seem to be among the most reliable engines when utilizing forced induction. Like I said, do it right and it will last.

I'm going by real world experiences too buddy. Any idiot can turbo. But all the supercharged Honda engines I've come across have had a lot more work done to them and therefor seem to have lasted longer. The majority of turbos I've seen used are too high pressure and end up causing problems, and superchargers don't cause as much stress on original parts.

 

[ryzno]

Nope, only turbocharged.

Source: I have all the EK9s, EP3s, FD2, DC2 and DC5s - they can only be turbocharged.

The NSX Type R isn't forced induced in any way.

There are none that I am aware that can be Supercharged however I am aware that in real life it's quite popular, but I don't think PD implemented it.

A little off topic because its not a Type R, but sadly, the only Honda that can be Super Charged, is the '88 Accord Coupe. In the GTuning Shop it shows I have the Stage 3 Engine, in the tuning menu it shows I have Stage 1 Engine Anyways from what I can see the car puts out a whopping 217HP

A few real life :idea:s

Any kind of Forced Induction Engine will need reinforcement. Stronger Rods, Pistons, Crank, Cams, Valves Ect... Smaller, Newer, Aluminum Engines Need even more reinforcement. Putting a Reinforcement Sleeve Around the Cylinders(in the coolent valley's) and a stronger intake manifold they are not designed for 11-13 PSI of boost. Also I dont see why 5-7 is not sufficient to have fun in any street car.

Now I have a question I have a project '91 Accord I'm going to start working on once I get everything planned. I dont want to go forced induction. I want to stay N/A. I know change the Head, Cam, ect... My question is how do people wire their cars so there is practically no harness in the engine bay? then you see all custom gauges and switches. Do they remove the ECM and Emission stuff( my car will be 25 in a few more years, no more emissions

I'd just like to know is there a generic wiring harness or is it fully done by hand(im sure it is)? Does anyone have or have a link to a wiring diagram or instructional video or SOMETHING?
Any Help will be greatly appreciated