Want To Modify A Supra - Need Advice!

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RDF97

RDF97

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My dream since I was a kid was to own a car featured in Need For Speed. I getting to the age where I'm thinking about buying my own car, but I want to buy in as a project. I've looked around and I found in mint condition a huge array of Skyline's, Supra's, Silvia's costing between $13000 - $20000. At this stage I know I want a Supra for about $20000; including onroads. What I want to know is what are the best parts for a MkIV '99 Supra (non turbo). I've checked Suprastore.com but are there any other websites I should check out?

Whatever advice you can give me I'll be grateful. I'm more concerned about lookng for suspension, brakes, aerodynamics etc. Not so much turbos or nitrous at this point but I do want advice on brands for my parts.

Like I said, any advice and I'll be grateful. Tips from experience, bring it on. This is a project that I really want to get stuck into and you'll be giving me a start on it.
 
A Supra as your first car.. I can't even begin to imagine your insurance premiums.

I'd strongly advise getting a Supra for your first car but that's not really what this thread is for and you seem to have made up your mind.

As for your question, that depends really.. what's your budget for parts? what sort of thing are you looking at doing with the car? Will it be a daily, a race car, a gran tourer (its original purpose)?
 
For God's sake man, do not get a non turbo supra. Have a little self respect.

And also, if you have to ask a gaming forum about how to mod a car, you're going to have a bad time.
 
ZohsixGT5
For God's sake man, do not get a non turbo supra. Have a little self respect.

And also, if you have to ask a gaming forum about how to mod a car, you're going to have a bad time.
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Nothing wrong with non-turbo if you can't afford the turbo
 
ZohsixGT5
For God's sake man, do not get a non turbo supra. Have a little self respect.

And also, if you have to ask a gaming forum about how to mod a car, you're going to have a bad time.
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This forum is full of people who are handy with real cars, hence why this is in the "Cars in General" subforum and not one of the gaming sub forums..

As for getting a non-turbo, there's nothing wrong with that - Turbocharged can be very expensive and will cause an already extremely high insurance premium (Mandatory in Australia) to rise even further. Not to mention maintenance and the cost of replacement if something goes wrong.
 
You could always try for a Toyota Soarer, they're not as sought after as Supras but just as cool.

And as for the non-turbo issue, Toyota put freer flowing heads in the non-turbo 2JZ engines. That means that it will be even better if you turbo it afterwards. And remember, any 2JZ can withstand up to 600 horses on stock internals. If you want to go crazy with it, do the 3.4 stroker kit.
 
Cant a Non-turbo be turbo'd eventually , id imagine the internals might be a diffrent spec and would need to be upgrading.

Plus if its a project car he might not have to insure it right away if its not gonna be driven not that i know Aus laws.
 
UrieHusky
This forum is full of people who are handy with real cars, hence why this is in the "Cars in General" subforum and not one of the gaming sub forums..
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What I meant was, there are much better resources out there he could reach out to and get better information than here on GTP. Such as a Supra forum.

Regarding the non-turbo, I respectfully disagree.
 
Endless-Wilso
Cant a Non-turbo be turbo'd eventually , id imagine the internals might be a diffrent spec and would need to be upgrading.

Plus if its a project car he might not have to insure it right away if its not gonna be driven not that i know Aus laws.
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It doesn't need to be insured if it's parked, only if you're driving it.

Yes a non-turbo can be upgraded, depending on the car and the boost level other modifications will need to be performed on the main components - but mostly just remapping the cars ECU and doing all the regular supporting items (Intercooler, blowoff valve etc etc) will be plenty as long as you're running a safe and stable boost level.

Honestly, despite the Supra being a very heavy frame you wont need that much power to enjoy it - focus on the handling before you start going crazy with the engine components.

ZohsixGT5
What I meant was, there are much better resources out there he could reach out to and get better information than here on GTP. Such as a Supra forum.
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Sure, I understand that - however some people (Myself included) like to come to people we know and trust for information. Of course Supra specific websites will have more detailed information and that could be a better way to go, but since we're all friends here it is nicer to defer to friends rather than strangers.. if you get my meaning; at least that's how I see it.


ZohsixGT5
Regarding the non-turbo, I respectfully disagree.
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Fair enough, but you do need to understand just how much insurance spikes the moment "Turbo" is mentioned - especially if you're younger (And a gentleman.. for some reason - apparently ladies don't 'hoon it' according to insurance companies)

That spike can be a massive turn-off; besides which you can install a turbo later on once you build up your insurance rating thingy whatever it's called - never been good at the legal stuff.
 
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Unless you're committed, you have a steady income and are willing to put lots of time and effort into studying car modification, then... no.

A 99 Supra is an expensive, heavy fourteen year old car that's going to need lots of love and lots of work before you can even begin to think of modifying it.

I'd prefer a Silvia over a Supra or a Skyline, as a gateway drug to modding, but then, that's just me.
 
supra_Ls1.jpg


(:
 
UrieHusky
As for getting a non-turbo, there's nothing wrong with that - Turbocharged can be very expensive and will cause an already extremely high insurance premium (Mandatory in Australia) to rise even further. Not to mention maintenance and the cost of replacement if something goes wrong.
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TPP or comprehensive insurance is not mandatory in Australia, but it is very highly recommended. Another potential reason for Supra sans-turbos is that if this is the OP's first car, 95% chance they are on P-Plates; turbocharged cars (of this nature anyway; there's a very specific set of criteria for turbocharged and V8-powered vehicles on a provisional license) are a no-no unless you live in WA/NT/ACT.

This being said though, I'd still highly recommend against the usual tuner vehicles for a first car as the cops will be over you like flies, regardless of whether or not said vehicle is in roadworthy condition.

My honest opinion, skip the Supra; $22000 will get you an incredibly mint 4GEN Subaru Liberty 3.0R Spec.B which has plenty enough power, loads of modification options, low insurance premiums and, most importantly, it's a fun thing to drive.

An S15 AUTECH Silvia is also an interesting alternative as it's naturally aspirated but nice and light; again though, police attention would be significant.
 
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Murcie_LP640
TPP or comprehensive insurance is not mandatory in Australia, but it is very highly recommended.
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Really? well now that is interesting; It was my understanding that insurance was compulsory. I apologise for spreading misinformation as it was not my intent.

What you said about P plates was my understanding as well, I believe there's a checklist of cars that you're allowed to drive on each license tier?

Given that the OP is playing with 20 odd grand for a car though I was working on the assumption that they've been driving their family car and thus could be off P plates by now - however as the old saying goes "Assuming makes an arse out of you and me".
 
UrieHusky
Really? well now that is interesting; It was my understanding that insurance was compulsory. I apologise for spreading misinformation as it was not my intent.
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The insurance that IS compulsory is CTP: Compulsory Third Party insurance which covers the other party's medical bills if they happen to be injured in an accident. In some states of Australia this is paid for in rego (SA and VIC I know off the top of my head), while others needs to be arranged with an insurance company (in NSW this is known as a Green Slip I believe).

Third Party Property covers the other party's car if you're delegated at fault and is highly recommended but not compulsory. Basically covers up to $30mil or so in property damage. Comprehensive of course covers your property as well as theirs.

UrieHusky
What you said about P plates was my understanding as well, I believe there's a checklist of cars that you're allowed to drive on each license tier?
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Correct. Learners are allowed to drive anything so long as they have a fully licensed instructor/parent/etc. as shotgun. Provisionals though is much more convoluted.

In the states of WA, Australian Capital Territory and Northern Territory (I think Tasmania as well), there are no restrictions on vehicles for P-Platers, but in the eastern states and South Australia, turbocharged/supercharged performance vehicles, vehicles with 8 cylinders or more and specific "performance" 6-cylinder N/A cars such as the Nissan 350Z/Skyline 350GT, BMW M-cars and Porsches are all banned.

There is an option for P-Platers to get an exemption for "moderately-powered" turbo/supercharged vehicles including turbodiesels; the criteria for this is even more convoluted.

UrieHusky
Given that the OP is playing with 20 odd grand for a car though I was working on the assumption that they've been driving their family car and thus could be off P plates by now - however as the old saying goes "Assuming makes an arse out of you and me".
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Could well be the case. Fair few unanswered questions, hopefully the OP will update soon.
 
Like Nicky said, a Silvia would be a better car to mod and it would be faster than the Supra too. Non turbo Supra would struggle to pull away from a 1.6 v-tec civic, to give an Idea of performance. So a Supra wouldn't be such a bad first car as far as being too quick.
 
Murcie_LP640
Correct. Learners are allowed to drive anything so long as they have a fully licensed instructor/parent/etc. as shotgun. Provisionals though is much more convoluted.

In the states of WA, Australian Capital Territory and Northern Territory (I think Tasmania as well), there are no restrictions on vehicles for P-Platers, but in the eastern states and South Australia, turbocharged/supercharged performance vehicles, vehicles with 8 cylinders or more and specific "performance" 6-cylinder N/A cars such as the Nissan 350Z/Skyline 350GT, BMW M-cars and Porsches are all banned.

There is an option for P-Platers to get an exemption for "moderately-powered" turbo/supercharged vehicles including turbodiesels; the criteria for this is even more convoluted.
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Wow that is crazy. Learn something new everyday.
 
Why don't you get a Miata/Civic/106/Saxo/Corsa/Escort/Golf/Polo/Lupo etc to learn to modify on instead of a Supra.
 
As long as your a mature and not going to be hooning it to much I dont see a problem with a Supra and a NA would be a great starting point. My 1st car was a '95 Cobra and I did fine.
 
Non-turbo Supras still have a decent amount of power anyway, it's just more "respect" comes for those who have the choo-choo-choo.

NA is more of a chance to focus on visuals and handling rather than outright acceleration/speed. If you want proper "JDM" stuff look at http://www.jdmconcept.com.au, http://www.perfectrun.jp or http://www.nengun.com; these sites stock a pretty vast range of bits and brands and they ship to Australia for a fair price. There will also be some vendors that specialise in specific brands here in Australia like the bloke who runs the site I got my Enkei wheels from on the cheap.

Again though if you are limited to naturally aspirated vehicles or you want to limit yourself to them, then I'd suggest the Liberty or, even better, something really nice small and light like a RenaultSport Clio 182. You'd also be able to get an RS Clio 197 or one of the special edition Clio IIIs for this budget.

If you are able to go turbo, twin-turbocharged Supra RZs are plentiful, and $20k will get you a decent R32 or R33 Skyline GT-R. You also have the option of a Version V or VI Subaru Impreza WRX STi, Toyota Chaser, Silvia Spec R, or indeed any number of a vast majority of Japanese imports at your disposal. A warning on this part though; owning one of the 6-cyl tuner vehicles will be a big testament as to how much money you have to spend. They drink fuel, some require more maintenance than others (R32 is a perfect case in point as hard driving literally makes it starve itself of oil due to the oil pump drive collar) and once you start really getting into the modifying money will be flying out the window fast.

If you make this your only car, I recommend you keep the engine mods mild as it will cost you an absolute fortune to run otherwise.
 
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Thanks for everything so far. I just want to clear up a few things:

1 - Like I said, I want this to be a project car. If you have seen 'Love The Beast' you'll probably understand. This car isn't nesecarily going to be my first car but it is a car that I am going to buy at some point.

2 - There are a few reasons for the non turbo. Firstly, the car is of course going to be a project car. I'm going to be tinkering with it and making my perfect car. Secondly, I'm more concerned on handling rather than straight line perofrmance. I plan to take it to the drag strip but I want to do a track day with it.

3 - Running the car as mentioned. I'm rarely going to drive it, the car I've got in mind is registered and all the money I'd to pay for maintanence and insurance I could spend doing it up.
 
Trackdays scream "Silvia", especially if we're talking about handling.

A heavy car needs more tire, more brakes and more suspension. And it will use more tires and more brakes if you plan on taking it to the track often... even if you don't use it as a daily driver.

And if it's your first track car, it's better to start with something lighter and more nimble. Not only are you safer this way, you will be infinitely more satisfied with the experience.
 
While the Supra is a great (objectively speaking) gripper, I agree with niky that a Silvia, either Autech for atmo or Spec R (I recommend the turbo for this one) would be better suited to track work. Supra RZs make excellent street weapons and drag cars but you'll find that on circuits they have their limits. Autech Silvias are around $15k whereas Spec Rs are fairly heavily dependant on how much the previous owner has modified it; stock ones run about the $15k mark too.

Alternatively, and I may be biased here but, a GC8 Impreza STi would be a great companion for the circuit as well. Nice and light for an AWD vehicle, plenty of punch stock with room for more on a small budget and bucketloads of grip; understeer on the limit but easily managed. Version VI sedans will run you between $12k for a heavily used example to $20k for a great condition one, Version V coupes are between $20-25k.
 
Are yo familiar with 'Love The Beast'? If so great. If not well, basically Eric Bana expresses his love for cars and he reflects on a '74 Ford Falcon XB Coup which he looked up to as a kid and specifically the car in question was his own car. He entered the Targa Tasmania with his XB Coup and went on to saw how he respects his car and how other people see their cars as tools for the job.

I'm facing the same thing. I, like Eric Bana, have looked up to Supra's. Need For Speed, Fast and the Furious shown me this car time and time again. Every Need For Speed game I've played, I bought a Supra. My favourite tuner from Fast and the Furious was the Supra. I see a Supra everytime I leave and return home. I've always been fond of Supra's and thats the reason why I want to have a Supra as my one day project car.

There may be better cars, but the Supra is the one I'll always look up to.
 
In that case, get one with an LSD rather than an open diff (optional on SZ non-turbos, standard on RZ twin-turbos), use the sites I mentioned, and happy camping.

As a project car the RZ presents better "stuff" for the money. Torsen limited-slip differential (this is an option in the SZ, rare to find fitted. The standard A01A diff is an open diff and reportedly rubbish), 6-speed Getrag V160/161 manual as opposed to 5-speed W58 (V160/161 is a considerably stronger gearbox), thicker swaybars and bigger brakes.

Middle-ground is a late-model SZ-R, which the LSD was an option but was usually fitted, and it came with the V161 6-speed manual.

For the love of God though, don't indulge the whole F&F thing too much....another ruined Supra would just be a tragedy ;)

There's a few Supra owners here on the forum, whom I'm hoping have build threads or similar. Take a look :)

EDIT: Something like this here would be a real treat.

cp5491952816565012423.jpg


6-speed SZ-R with the Torsen LSD, 107,000km, and most importantly a stock body!
 
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That would be most of the mods for the track out of the way, I guess (no need for big suspension work, not until you've got some experience and sticky tires)... this leaves better brake pads and brake fluid.
 
Some good advise here, although I always recommend starting with an open diff and upgrading to a proper LSD after you're used making the car do what you want with an open diff. But it is a more expensive way to go.

I know a lot of people including myself would hate to see another supra ruined with a horrible body kit, but if that's what you're into don't let us stop you. But keep in mind with a body kit you will have to spend more on bigger wheels and tyres to pull the look off. Where as a standard body car can get away with smaller wheels and once lowered will look better than a kitted car with wheels that are lost.

If you want better brakes for the track, Euro Supra turbos (maybe all Supras outside japan) came with bigger brakes, which should be an easy swap.
 

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