Wheel "clunky"?

Discussion in 'Gran Turismo Sport' started by breeminator, Apr 20, 2019.

  1. breeminator


    I'm using a Fanatec CSW 2.5 with a Drive Hub, and there is a feel, mainly in the centre, that I can only describe as "clunky". I've tried varying all the settings, and some help, e.g. setting Dri -05 on the wheel helps it, and it was much worse when Force Feedback Sensitivity was set to 10 in the game, taking that down to 1 made it better.

    It varies with car. With the Alfa 4C Gr.4 around the Tokyo Expressway Central Outer Loop, the clunks are mainly just in the centre, it feels fine when turning. With the Ford GT grinding credits at Blue Moon Bay, it feels much better in the centre, much less clunky. Back to Tokyo, this time trying the Audi TT Gr.4, and it's horrible, the clunks happen even when steering, like a periodic clunk clunk clunk every second mid bend, that sort of thing.

    Is there anyone else using the same wheel base who can tell me if they experience the same thing with the Audi TT Gr.4 around the Tokyo Expressway Central Outer Loop?

    It feels like it's really hurting my ability to provide accurate inputs, as the clunks give a slight jolt to the wheel, so it adversely affects control of the car.

    I can post all my settings, but there doesn't seem much point until someone with the same setup tells me they don't experience this.

    I have had the same thing in other games, e.g. F1 2017 on the Xbox, i.e. without the Drive Hub, also has this clunkiness in the centre.

    I'm using the Drive Hub in the mode that emulates a Logitech wheel, I haven't managed to put it into the Fanatec native mode, but I doubt that is the problem.
  2. breeminator


    I've realised it's the expansion joints in the road! There's a noise coming from the speakers at the same time as each clunk. That's why it's not there at Blue Moon Bay.

    The question is, can it be turned off? Even going over a speed bump in real life has virtually no effect at all on the steering wheel, an expansion joint shouldn't be delivering a noticeable jolt to the wheel.
    Dimitri, seadog777, VBR and 1 other person like this.
  3. Stencedaddy


    I was going to say its probably the road connectors at tokyo but i dont have a wheel so i didnt reply. No way to turn it off i believe as it is part of the track feedback. The first time i raced tokyo that clunk sound in my headphones was killing me lol.
    seadog777 likes this.
  4. super_gt


    Knukel likes this.
  5. Knukel


    NVM i quickly checked that the 2nd post was just a suggestion from someone else... So i agree with @super_gt to lower FEI.
    ...I'll leave my original comment here anyway: New or old wheel? Did it occur after firmware update or just randomly? I just recently started looking beta driver forums in Fanatec site and noticed that some have reported similiar behaviour with the latest drivers (327-330, iirc). Try older firmware from Fanatec community's beta drivers section?
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2019
    super_gt likes this.
  6. breeminator


    It's a new wheel, I've had it less than 2 months. I put the latest firmware on when I got it, which looks to be 328, looking back at the file I have on my hard drive. So I don't have anything to compare it to, but it sounds like maybe there is a bit of a problem with the firmware.

    @super_gt thanks, I have FEI set to 0, that was one of the first things I did when I started using it, as I quickly worked out I didn't like all the jolts coming through the wheel. I was going to say I've seen similar behaviour from your wheel, with it oscillating back and forth when it shouldn't, but that's F4H_Super_GT, not you :-)

    I've got it working reasonably now. It seems to work best with the two in-game parameters equal. It's then just a question of setting the right overall level. The expansion joints aren't too bad at a low overall level of force feedback, but changing one step on the wheel from For 20 to 30, say, can make them go from barely noticeable to really annoying. It means I have less steering feel than I'd like, but for now, at least, I've settled on going for the strongest steering feedback that keeps the expansion joint jolts close to zero. I guess I can use 30 for other tracks and remember to change it back for Tokyo.
    super_gt and Knukel like this.
  7. Tassie_tiger


    2.5 and DriveHub here.

    Updating the DriveHub so I could use Fanatec mode helped me with the oscillations.
    I suggest giving it a go.

    It's been a few months since I played around with it, but the last time was when there was a FFB issue and a new update was released to fix it.
    The '.43' version worked well for me.
  8. breeminator


    Thanks, I updated the Drive Hub to the latest firmware version before using it, but I see that only updates it to 2.0.2, and there are newer beta versions. So I've updated it again, this time to the latest beta version.

    I was still struggling to put it into Fanatec mode. To help anyone who finds this in a search, the Drive Hub manual says 'The LED display and on the Drive hub will display the letter “F” for Fanatec or the letter “L” for Fanalogic to verify your selection'. This is not correct - with my CSL Elite P1 wheel, the F and L are only shown on the wheel, so I thought it wasn't working, as I was looking at the Drive Hub. Once I realised this, I was able to press and hold the double square and 3 line buttons, and after several seconds it switched mode.

    F mode has indeed solved the odd behaviour at the centre point and stopped it from oscillating if I let go of the wheel while the car is just going along in a straight line.

    Interestingly, using F mode has changed what I feel with expansion joints. Now, with For=20, I don't feel them when travelling in a straight line, but do when cornering. This is much more like what would happen in a real car. It has also added an understeer effect that wasn't there in L mode. Overall it seems preferable, so the F mode seems like a really good feature for Fanatec users.
    K1LLD0z3R, Tassie_tiger and super_gt like this.