Wheel settings

  • Thread starter GRT_MattM
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Just started an account to post this.

On my G29, everything above 1 torque causes massive clipping. At 2 torque I can't feel the tyres understeering. So for me, only 1 torque works - everything above is just heavy without any feel for what the tyres are doing. Also, small bumps while under load in a corner might disappear when at 2 torque or above.

For sensitivity I run 10. 1 works as well but I lose some nuances and fidelity - it becomes more "vague/mushy".

I've been running last weeks C race at DR:B, if anyone's wondering, and am new to the game. I come from real life motorcycle driving on twisties and some pushing of cars to the limit on road and on track. All skills are directly translated to GT Sport - awesome!
 
Clipping started on 3 with over enthusiastic driving but it was fine at that level if I kept the car and wheel composed. The lack of wheel weight on lower values had me driving by eye rather than through feedback so that's what I stuck with for most cars. Single seaters are the only time I'd drop it to 2.

Sensitivity doesn't have much range on GTS's mirror smooth tracks so I'd set that as high as possible without asking it for any extraneous detail that I don't need to act on. The immersion takes a small hit but it's better to ask for the feedback you need rather than the feedback you want with a G29. The cogs and small motor can only do so much.
 
I assume G923 is just a G29 with more buttons?

Mostly. The biggest difference is the road buzz thing ("trueforce").

I was about to return the wheel until I tried ffb max torque 1. To me, it's unusable at 2+. I guess you need a stronger motor for 2+ to avoid clipping.
 
Mostly. The biggest difference is the road buzz thing ("trueforce").

I was about to return the wheel until I tried ffb max torque 1. To me, it's unusable at 2+. I guess you need a stronger motor for 2+ to avoid clipping.
I guess the jolting when cornering is the clipping?
 
I guess the jolting when cornering is the clipping?

No, the jolting is severe understeering. When the wheel goes from heavy to light in a corner, you're beginning to understeer. You should be able to feel an "edge", where the tyre screeching begins.
But of course, sudden lightness can also mean oversteer.

Clipping is when nothing happens. It's just heavy, with no nuance or variation. A lot of people don't seem to have an idea how real cars behave and feel - they just crank the torque of the wheel and then complain how you need super expensive gear to feel details. That's clipping.

Nicely explained:


Also, if you understeer by turning the wheel too much and then stomp the throttle at the apex so the rear breaks loose, you're most likely spinning since your front wheels are turning too much. If you don't understeer, oversteer after the apex is much easier to save - and you look cool doing it. ;)

So, if your wheel is heavy all the time and you need to use traction control, you're doing it wrong.
 
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I use a G29, but the discussion here about the settings and the clipping are really informative for me. I've had my torque set high since I started... I liked the higher force and found it more natural to drive. But I never knew that this would result in the clipping and a loss of feel... if that is something I've been blind to, I hope it will help me to turn it down. So I set it down to 3 (big difference in force, for sure, but easy enough to adjust to I suppose, especially in this week's two FIA races at Seaside in the RBJr and Tokyo in the Gr4 cars... where light steering inputs are key.)

I had left the settings on default for my Alt account, and definitely noticed the lighter steering load but was able to jump between that and my Torque:8 setting on the main account. But if I've been missing input all this time, I'm glad someone pointed it out.

I've karted a ton, and I've driven a performance car in anger on a closed course plenty, but it's been years. But the whole game experience is a bit removed from that so I never would have known if the feedback was just clipped or that's all there was to utilize.

No, the jolting is severe understeering. When the wheel goes from heavy to light in a corner, you're beginning to understeer. You should be able to feel an "edge", where the tyre screeching begins.
But of course, sudden lightness can also mean oversteer.

Clipping is when nothing happens. It's just heavy, with no nuance or variation. A lot of people don't seem to have an idea how real cars behave and feel - they just crank the torque of the wheel and then complain how you need super expensive gear to feel details. That's clipping.

Nicely explained:


Also, if you understeer by turning the wheel too much and then stomp the throttle at the apex so the rear breaks loose, you're most likely spinning since your front wheels are turning too much. If you don't understeer, oversteer after the apex is much easier to save - and you look cool doing it. ;)

So, if your wheel is heavy all the time and you need to use traction control, you're doing it wrong.
 
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I use a G29, but the discussion here about the settings and the clipping are really informative for me. I've had my torque set high since I started... I liked the higher force and found it more natural to drive. But I never knew that this would result in the clipping and a loss of feel... if that is something I've been blind to, I hope it will help me to turn it down. So I set it down to 3 (big difference in force, for sure, but easy enough to adjust to I suppose, especially in this week's two FIA races at Seaside in the RBJr and Tokyo in the Gr4 cars... where light steering inputs are key.)

I had left the settings on default for my Alt account, and definitely noticed the lighter steering load but was able to jump between that and my Torque:8 setting on the main account. But if I've been missing input all this time, I'm glad someone pointed it out.

I've karted a ton, and I've driven a performance car in anger on a closed course plenty, but it's been years. But the whole game experience is a bit removed from that so I never would have known if the feedback was just clipped or that's all there was to utilize.

Thanks for the input.

Why not try max torque 1 as well, give it a couple of laps and let us know if you can feel the tyres better mid corner? Yeah, it feels stupid light at first, but when accustomed you'll probably appreciate the increased sense of what's going on with the grip.

I couldn't imagine going back to "heavy clipping mode". I might as well just drive with DS4 and motion control - no feel for the road/car. At least the DS4 won't let you understeer heavily.
 
Thanks for the input.

Why not try max torque 1 as well, give it a couple of laps and let us know if you can feel the tyres better mid corner? Yeah, it feels stupid light at first, but when accustomed you'll probably appreciate the increased sense of what's going on with the grip.

I couldn't imagine going back to "heavy clipping mode". I might as well just drive with DS4 and motion control - no feel for the road/car. At least the DS4 won't let you understeer heavily.
...maybe I will, but the more I learn the more likely it is that I'll end up with a direct drive Fanatec!

I will say that my shoulders were sore when I drove 500 miles on GT Sport in a day, with the settings as I had them. At least, I will get the benefit of less tired arms with the FF torque reduced to 3 or 1!

I did immediately get more than 1 second faster at the FIA Tokyo race FP, when changing the setting to 3, from 8. So maybe it was just natural improvement or confidence or placebo, but if I was losing resolution in the feedback, especially when finding that max min corner speed before getting back on the throttle, which the game relies on so much if you want to be fast, I'm sure it was holding me back a bit.
 
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...maybe I will, but the more I learn the more likely it is that I'll end up with a direct drive Fanatec!

I will say that my shoulders were sore when I drove 500 miles on GT Sport in a day, with the settings as I had them. At least, I will get the benefit of less tired arms with the FF torque reduced to 3 or 1!

Yep, I'm myself getting a DD as soon as all the teething problems are gone (probably a couple of years away). Right now, I don't feel like paying a lot of money to then fiddle with settings and troubleshoot issues more than I spend time playing the game.

I forgot to mention that I guess that people are wanting different things with this game. I'm only at it for the competition, so whatever gives me an advantage I'm in. If I want realism and immersion, I'll just hop on my 1000cc real-life motorcycle. So if you're at it for something else than competition, like realism/immersion, forget what I've been talking about - crank the max torque or whatever makes you feel good.
 
Yep, I'm myself getting a DD as soon as all the teething problems are gone (probably a couple of years away). Right now, I don't feel like paying a lot of money to then fiddle with settings and troubleshoot issues more than I spend time playing the game.

I forgot to mention that I guess that people are wanting different things with this game. I'm only at it for the competition, so whatever gives me an advantage I'm in. If I want realism and immersion, I'll just hop on my 1000cc real-life motorcycle. So if you're at it for something else than competition, like realism/immersion, forget what I've been talking about - crank the max torque or whatever makes you feel good.
Nope: I want to win. If it works better I'm all for it.
 
I'll always look at the G29 with fondness but after upgrading to a T300RS a few weeks ago, it sure highlights that it's an entry level wheel with FFB. Hugo is probably more realistic with his G29 settings to make the best of the wheel but I'd be lost without any wheel weight for muscle memory.
 
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