Wheel Setup Help

G

GranTurismoFive

243
Iraq
London
D-MVN
Thought it would be useful to provide help to those who might require it.

I was up at 430 this morning to play this. I spent an hour getting my T500RS setup lol.

So here we go:

WHEEL and console combo : T500RS / PS4
ISSUE : Known glitch where wheel becomes unusable after exiting a race or session. SMS are working on it.
FIX : Figured out a way to resolve the issue. Take your PS controller. Activate it and then deactivate it. The wheel will become useable again.

Setting up your Wheel :

Do not attempt to play the game until you've done the following :

*Calibrated the wheel and pedals and
*Assigned functions to buttons. This is done by first selecting the function and then pressing the button you wish to assign it to.

Loving the game but I wish the options were more intuitive. For that reason I think most will find threads like these useful.

Feel free to add more details
 
i use a fanatec gt3 RS and for some reason i have a deadzone even with it set to 0%, so i might need some help
 
On the T300 I calibrated on the controller settings section, Took a car out and found that the steering was not very reponsive.

I changed the rotation from 540 degrees to 360, it now feels great!
 
i calibrated my T300 first thing but ended up just resetting (think i messed up the calibration judging by the non-1:1 mapping afterwards) and running with the default setup which seemed pretty good. i'll need to make the brake pedal more sensitive though, seems i've got to go quite heavy to get a response in the current setup.

my FFB started to feel different after a few laps in the Sauber C9, strange vibrations i hadn't felt up until then, and was actually worried there was an issue but i'll do a lot more tests tonight to be sure.
 
Smoothherb
Lol? Really? We are talking about the fanatec wheel and I don't see any calibration options!
Click to expand...

Yeah really.

Controller settings. You'll see an image of the connected wheel with a set of setup options below it.

The wheel calibration setup is simple.

Step 1 - rotate the wheel fully to the left or right.

Step 2 - return the wheel to its neutral position. Then turn it 90 degrees to the left or right. Hold it at 90 degrees and then click the confirmation button (X on the PS4).
 
EDIT: There's a post with pictures on WMD showing the Fanatec GT3 with full config options in the PC version and that same wheel with not all config options on the PS4. It appears to be showing up as a controller in some way.

I'm sure the devs will pick up on it and figure it out.
 
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Sorry for the ninja edit, see my revised answer... Seems to be a real issue with the Fanatec Porsche wheels on PS4.
 
Am using the T500RS and it feels like I only have the centre spring force working, there is no feedback from kerbs or things like that. Does that sound correct?
 
JamboGT
Am using the T500RS and it feels like I only have the centre spring force working, there is no feedback from kerbs or things like that. Does that sound correct?
Click to expand...
There are a huge amount of things you can do... But they can get rather involved.

For now I recommend:
- Reduce the damping from 25% to 0%
- Alter the force feedback % or Tire Force % settings down to avoid centering force being overwhelming. I know moving force feedback down from 75% to 60% works, but it's not the ideal way forward.
- Add 0.08 deadzone removal



The full on "how to make FFB awesome" approach means actually tweaking settings per car. This is what bmanic posted on RD, and he's one of the top FFB tuning guys from the backer forums:

The most important parameter to check that it's set to 100 is the Force Feedback Strength parameter in the main controller menu. It defaults for many wheels at 75 and some wheels at 50 which is completely wrong. Then make sure FFB damping saturation (the next parameter under FFB strength) is set to zero.

After this I suggest using Real Gain parameter (first value to 0.98, second to 0.1 and last value again t 0.98) unless you have a direct drive wheel (2000$+ wheel).. or even the Fanatec CSW v2.

Then finally remove all smoothing in the car setup FFB menu. All cars default to 0.1 Fx Smoothing which is stupid.

Then I suggest setting the values for most cars like this (note that his is very subjective though. You need to adapt the FFB to your own type of driving):

Fx = 48
Fy = 44
Fz = 54
Mz = 100

Then the top parameter (master scale) to your preferred setting. I usually have it at around 34 to 40, depending on how heavy FFB I want.

Finally one of the most important and one of the most difficult to understand and tweakparameters is called Spindle Arm Angle (or just spindle arm). You can ONLY find it in each car's setup screen when you are NOT in the actual practice/qualifying/race session. So from the main menu go into car setup editing and you will find it as the last value. Many cars have this setting quite nicely set but some cars have it completely wrong. This setting is key to getting a proper feel of the forces through the whole range of slip angles. If you set the value too low you'll have a very tightly centered wheel with little FFB once you cross over optimum slip angle. If you set the value too high the opposite happens.. the wheel is very light and "slow" in the middle and gets progressively stronger the more you turn the wheel. Set it just right and your wheel will be giving you amazing detail.

EDIT: One last note: My way of tweaking FFB is purely based on laptimes. I tweak until I get the ultimate consistent laptimes. I don't care at all about trying to get a wheel to feel "realistic" (which would be completely dead in a normal car) nor do I try to get it "heavy and bumpy". I just tweak it for ultimate important physics information fidelity. I want to know exactly when I'm not at optimum grip levels. This is the only fairly OBJECTIVE way of tweaking FFB because I can directly measure it. I drive 5 laps around Silverstone with default FFB. Check my laptimes. I then tweak the FFB and drive 5 more laps then compare the laptimes. Did I do better? Did I do worse? It's like tweaking a car setup.

FFB can have a HUGE impact on your laptimes, especially if it is "wrongly set". It can truly work against you and make the car feel very odd if it's badly setup. But get it just right and you can vastly improve the laptimes and as an added bonus you wont be spinning and crashing as often either.
 
Thanks for the reply, had a mess around with settings last night but it was about 2am, I work on racing games so I tend to have a decent idea what to do but was just getting nothing, actually felt like a bug as there was no feedback from going off road/kerbs etc.

Will give these settings a go when I get home from work and report back.
 
A little more background info:

Right now tire force in the configuration settings defaults to 100% and force feedback defaults to 75% for the T500.
  • A few months ago tire force was something you would usually run around 20-30%, to balance the feedback from the tyres with the rest of the feedback. So an ideal setup back then was 100% force feedback, 0% damping and then 20-30% tire force.
  • Then SMS revamped the car FFB configuration and it was stated on the WMD forums that it was no longer necessary to drop tire force down so low.


As of the build I tried last night, I'm inclined to go back to lower tire force settings, see how it performs.

This evening I'll be iterating along the following lines with the T500:
Damping to 0%
Force feedback to 100%
Gain values to 0.98/0.1/0.98
Deadzone reduction to 0.08
Tyre force down to something between 20-40%


See if that is a good starting point or whether something else needs tweaking to give a lively and responsive FFB which isn't too heavily weighted.
 
A bit of a tip (I'm on PS4)... I was in a race earlier and had NO FFB except for a center spring type of effect. I thought it might have been the car, or the track, or both, so I went out of the track and back in with a different car and the FFB worked fine. Tried another car, worked fine, went back to the ORIGINAL car that had no FFB and that worked fine too.

If you go into a session and have no FFB, leave the race and go back in. It fixes it in some instances I think.
 
Thrustmaster say this about T500RS / PS4

"Project CARS on PS4™: issues with the T500 RS racing wheel
Project CARS will be available as of May 7 on PC, PS4™ and Xbox One.
On PS4™ the game works perfectly, once the day one patch has been installed, with the T300 RS, T300 GTE, T80 and T100 FFB racing wheels, as well as with the TH8A shifter (in both sequential and “H”-pattern modes).
Unfortunately, however, there are some temporary issues with the T500 RS racing wheel (only).
# Issue 1:
Details – On PS4™, the wheel on the T500 RS sometimes turns abruptly in one direction and remains stuck in this direction when you exit a race to return to the game’s menus. The wheel only re-centers itself when you return to the race.
Temporary workaround – Manually return the wheel to the centered position (by forcing it), turning the wheel 1.5 rotations in the opposite direction until it stops moving, and then release the wheel. Keep the wheel perfectly centered until you return to the race.
# Issue 2:
Details – On PS4™, the wheel on the T500 RS sometimes vibrates when you exit a race to return to the game’s menus.
Temporary workaround – Keep the wheel perfectly centered in order for the vibrations to stop.
These issues have already been identified by the R&D teams of Thrustmaster and Slightly Mad Studios, and will be resolved very soon in a new upcoming game patch."
 
I have no clue about setting up my new t300. So many sliders confusing me. :)
Stearing dead zone, filtering sensitivity, damper saturation, visual wheel filtering...

Maybe some German user can provide some help via chat. That would be awesome. I want all settings to be correct from the start. I can stream it to twitch so you can see what I change. Thank you in advance.
 
Mr Latte
Thrustmaster say this about T500RS / PS4

"Project CARS on PS4™: issues with the T500 RS racing wheel
Project CARS will be available as of May 7 on PC, PS4™ and Xbox One.
On PS4™ the game works perfectly, once the day one patch has been installed, with the T300 RS, T300 GTE, T80 and T100 FFB racing wheels, as well as with the TH8A shifter (in both sequential and “H”-pattern modes).
Unfortunately, however, there are some temporary issues with the T500 RS racing wheel (only).
# Issue 1:
Details – On PS4™, the wheel on the T500 RS sometimes turns abruptly in one direction and remains stuck in this direction when you exit a race to return to the game’s menus. The wheel only re-centers itself when you return to the race.
Temporary workaround – Manually return the wheel to the centered position (by forcing it), turning the wheel 1.5 rotations in the opposite direction until it stops moving, and then release the wheel. Keep the wheel perfectly centered until you return to the race.
# Issue 2:
Details – On PS4™, the wheel on the T500 RS sometimes vibrates when you exit a race to return to the game’s menus.
Temporary workaround – Keep the wheel perfectly centered in order for the vibrations to stop.
These issues have already been identified by the R&D teams of Thrustmaster and Slightly Mad Studios, and will be resolved very soon in a new upcoming game patch."
Click to expand...

I just use the pad ret start method. It forces the wheel to reset itself.
 
GranTurismoFive
I just use the pad ret start method. It forces the wheel to reset itself.
Click to expand...

I'm having this problem, but cannot get it to work again. Tried turning my Dualshock controller on and off, and tried the solution of turning the wheel, but nothing seems to work.

I can get it to work again by unplugging and connecting the wheel again, but could get annoying having to do it every time.

Can you tell me exactly what you do with the controller?
 
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