Wheelspin...can't get out from under.

  • Thread starter sanpanico
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sanpanico

sanpanico

80
GT Family,

I've been all through the tuning sub-forum, (searching and just going page by page if anyone's wondering :)) and haven't quite gotten the answer I'm looking for.

My issue is of preventing wheelspin. Not just on the starting line, but also when cornering. That said, I have seen threads/posts about upping the TCS a bit, and that has helped on the line. But, with regard to wheelspin while accelerating out of a corner, the game info leads me to believe that this can also be tweaked with suspension settings, and/or LSD settings.

So, my question is, "How?" and what needs to be tweaked? Like I said, I've been all through threads about Toe, Camber, etc. but none have answered that question. So...there it is. Anyone?...Anyone?...Bueller?
 
Increase the LSD under acceleration. Lowering the transmission's final drive ratio, as well as the ratio for the gears you're spinning in, helps as well. I haven't found suspension tuning to be of any help with wheelspin yet though. For the more torquier cars, it seems impossible for me to eliminate 1st-gear wheelspin without turning TCS up to 1.
 
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Get a Driving Force Pro. :)

Failing that, adjust a few settings... I personally avoid TCS at all costs, even on the GT1's and Group C's.

Taller gear ratios for the gear(s) you're spinning in
Taller final drive
Increase LSD Accel
Stickier tires
NO toe in the back
less negative camber
softer rear springs
softer rear shock bump settings
learn how to modulate the X button or switch to using the analog stick (which personally can't do)
 
Whilst suspension and gearbox tuning can work to reduce wheelspin, it is true that the easiest way when you're just learning the ropes is to turn up the TCS. The LSD might help a little but with huge dollops of torque can actually make things worse by making both driven wheels let go without warning.

By far the most effective was to control wheelspin in powerful cars is throttle control. This is much easier with a wheel & pedals set-up but can be done with a DS2 - it takes some practise and can be frustrating when you're being pushed hard mind you.

EDIT: Ah, the ironically named Slowman beat me to it :D.
 
If its got power and youre accelerating... no matter what you do its gonna break traction, its power. Softer where its spinning helps... stiffer LSD on accel.. and so on, but its only gonna do so much... in real life they dont accelerate full out of corners, theyll spin out.
 
Adding ballast to the wheels that accelerate helps too. A '70 Dodge Charger (in-game, of course) will benefit from ballast located in the rear. From a standing start in the Las Vegas dragstrip, a Charger will have wheelspin if launched at full revs and max throttle. With 152 kg of ballast and a +50 location, the car will have no wheelspin when launching. Just an example :)
 
Thanks for the replies family. :) In going back to GT3:A-Spec to try and tweak my Lotus Motorsports Elise which suffers terribly from crazy wheelspin, I find that having it maxed out, tuning wise, creates too much torque, overall power for such a small light car.

Now, there's been some good tunes for that car on these boards. They seem to work well for my GT4 version of the Elise. However, I notice that the tuning settings (Suspension, Gear Ratios, etc.) in GT3 are a bit different for this car. So the GT4 tunes aren't quite the same in their application.

I want to keep the current set up (HP, etc), but can't keep the wheels from spinning and eating up the tread. All from coming out of corners, etc.

Lot's of white smoke in the rear view. I want to eliminate that. I will try all that you have responded with, that I haven't tried already.

Cheers.
 
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I'd suggest using less throttle. Learn to control the car the way it is before you start modifying it. It works for real cars and video games alike.
 
Keef
I'd suggest using less throttle. Learn to control the car the way it is before you start modifying it. It works for real cars and video games alike.
Click to expand...

Indeed, truer words were never spoken...

I have a stock version, which is decidely more managable. But I want to test this "tuned" version for comparison. Just can't get it quite right other than removing parts, etc before a race. I will have a look at sukerkin's tune, and check out any others that I come across. Thanks again gents!
 
A light car like the Motorsport Elise is going to have problems with big power, a lesson I learned all too well when I decided to fully tune an AE86 on Forza 2. At speed, the downforce will keep it planted to the ground better, but in slow corners you basically don't have any grip because there's very little pushing the tyres onto the ground, so if there's enough torque (obviously, the lighter the car the less torque it takes, and the MS Elise is as light as they come, more or less) they will just spin.

I'd recommend:
Ballast
Softer tyres
Learn to modulate the throttle, but you'd have to be very good as it'll be very sensitive
or, and this is probably the best option even if it sounds stupid:

Detune the car slightly? I think if you mess with the gearing you might find it'll slow you down more than detuning it a bit, and likewise, playing with suspension settings might compromise your cornering ability. Personally I'd just start by taking away some of the tuning parts and see if that makes a difference first, it's far easier than messing about with suspension and gearing and gives you a chance to learn throttle modulation, then you can tune it back up again. If you change the gearing you'll just get used to it that way and never have the chance to improve your lap times, like if you always had the ASM and TCS all the way up.

That's just how I see it, anyway. Might also be useful to learn exactly what sort of revs it takes to make the wheels spin up, I found that helps. Don't ask me how, though.

Edit: Should read other posts before I post, not after... I see you've already tried de-tuning, it's not a bad way to go, though! There is a such thing as too much power (particularly in a light car), see the Caparo T1 for details.
 
Parnelli Bone
Hee hee. I think you and me may be the only ones who get this little joke! :lol:
Click to expand...

gee, that helped him A LOT.., :lol:

Codename L
Adding ballast to the wheels that accelerate helps too. A '70 Dodge Charger (in-game, of course) will benefit from ballast located in the rear. From a standing start in the Las Vegas dragstrip, a Charger will have wheelspin if launched at full revs and max throttle. With 152 kg of ballast and a +50 location, the car will have no wheelspin when launching. Just an example :)
Click to expand...

hmmm......, 💡

@ sanpanico - throttle control would be help in avoiding wheelspin (thank goodness the shape buttons are pressure-sensitive :D), but sometimes you really can't avoid wheelspin on high-powered cars without using "grippier" tires..,

about the transmission, if you're going to set it up, my suggestion is that DO NOT put the Auto Slider to 1. That'll set the gears too close to each other. Set the 1st gear so that it tops out at around 50-55 mph (80-90 kph) and 2nd gear at around 80-85 mph (130-135 kph).., that should do the trick, for me it works, the rest is up to your throttle control skills.., I've been practicing throttle control with my Spoon EK9.., :D
 

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