Hey what's up guys, my name is Trent, I usually don't post here, I usually come and check out what's new in the GT world. I've recently been playing around with the suspension, limit slip, driving aids, etc. in order to build the ultimate reality experience for each car. As I have progressed as a driver (in the game) I have found that the cars respond, drive and feel more realistic with all the aids off. For some, this may be overwhelming and seemingly impossible. But if you stick with it, you will find the cars handle the and feel the best. Besides, when's the last time a racing car with 700+ hp would have TC?
Anyways, since this is a drift page I assume I should get to the point. In playing with the settings I have come to one certainty: all cars handle different despite outward similarities (Engine/drive placement, weight, power, etc.) When setting your car up for drift I follow these steps, usually not in order, but normally all of them.
1. Turn off TCS and ASM (TCS keeps the wheels from spinning, very important for drifting and ASM helps keep your car from spinning, also essential for drifting.)
One thing to note esp with ASM off is your inability to maintain control from high speed straights into elevated, uneven or sharp turns. I will explain how to counteract this later.
2. Run your car and find its strengths and weeknesses, for drifting i recommend Trial Mountial or Deep Forrest, good elev. and variety of turing radii.
3. Once you have felt your car go back into settings. With certain cars (i.e. Supra), the turbo lag and subsequent explosion of power is not favored for drifting. In the settings menu you can view your Hp and Torque curves. If your curve looks a dramatic porabola, you may be in for a tough time. Try purchasing a smaller turbo kit or lower NA tune. If you lower NA doesn't help, try the supercharger if available. The point is to find a flatter torque and horsepower curve for drivability. For those die-hard horsepower friends, remember, the cars as three saveable settings (A,B,C) courtesy of the makers. I usually set up A for short tracks, B for Drag or Drift, and C for long tracks.
4. Time to get technical. As many of you have done, the scrolling toolbars provide useful info on how each mode and setting effects the car. It seems cheezy, but if you read, you learn a lot about how to make you car perform according to your style. Certain settings are favorable for drifting such as brake bias, camber, tire strength, limit slip, weight transfer, etc.
Brake Bias-As you drive your car, feel its tendency to understeer or oversteer. Some cars have trouble losing the back end at the approach of a turn. Increase the front bias to pitch the front thus producing a "floating" rearend. This will allow the back tires to start their spin.
Camber-This isn't usually that important as long as you set up the rest good, but certain cars can be made or broken from the drift club with this setting. There is no real rule of thumb, but remember, the higher the camber, the less the contact patch their is under most conditions. The lower the contact patch in the back, the easier the spin. Also, the front should a dramatically larger camber, you want these wheels to control the car through the turn.
Tire Stength-This is kinda cheating, so I'll be brief, if your frustrated, select a harder compound for the back......enough said
Limit-Slip-The most important part of this equation. This determines how much the rearend will take before it grips or gives out. Each one determines individual characteristics, and each is very tricky. Experience and trial and error is the key here, but here's a guide.
The initial torque is kinda like how fast the tires wanna break lose under a none straight line situation. This one is important for the cars that are stubborn drifters (ie. SLR, Cobra R). Simply lower to allow the tires to break out at an earlier angle of the turn. Raise it if the car drifts to hard or to early
Deceleration settings is the second most important. Also for hard to drift cars, this allows the back end to swing at the approach of a turn. This goes hand in hand with the break bias. If the brake biased is up, but the decelerations setting is to high, the car will simple lose control not drift.
The acceleration setting is simple the ability of the power of the engine to translate into acceleration, or rubber stripes. Don't worry too much about this. Everything else should pull it into place.
5. Weight Bias-This one is usually never used, but just incase, play with it and find a good balance. I dont have any weight bias on my drift cars, I use it for balancing the short track ones.
Counteracting ASM off
You have undoubtedly experience the bucking bronco ride that the fully tuned Cobra 427 has to offer. Esp with ASM off. I have tried to tame the beast, and have only come close. Here's what to do for it and similar cars.
Make sure you decrease the front brake bias( In the Cobra I have it F-1, R-3), this will stop the float.
Increase the front spings and struts if the brakes dont help. The reason for this float is the front squating too much. Tighten up the front stop this compression from occurring.
Increase the deceleration setting on the limit-slip. This will help you maintain control.
Well, I think that is all I have. Hope you guys benefit from this post, Enjoy.
-Trent
